Schiffy Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 So Matt ( @PRPVinyl ) bought some steel to work on the F100 frame for the mark VIII suspesnion and all, however he had to buy it in excess because of how the company sold it. he won't be using it all, so on a little FB post we got to talking and my buddy Mark mentioned putting some through the floor subframes in my car. I can buy the steel i need from Matt and only pay for what i need, and he can sell back what he doesn't need to make up the difference in cost. Mark has done through the floor on Foxes, but not an SN body style. how different is it? i thought @Det_Riot or one of his buddies did some awhile back but not sure. I'm currently scouring the internet for info on it, but haven't found any yet. everything currently is just pics of peoples already installed ones.(who had a shop do it) Was hoping you guys could offer some assistance? anybody have a how to, or some pics or some advice? Mark is going to research some as well, figured i'd remove the sound deadener from the floorpan while i was at it to.even with steel and welding material, i'll come out cheaper than if i bought full length SFC online. Plus through the floors offer a great place to wld in my cage i plan to run down the road. so whatcha got guys? help me out! haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperstang1994 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Check out my build thread in the projects section. I only have the passenger side done before it got too cold. But it turned out great. I don't know how to link sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Its on my list of project but I have not done it yet. Too many b-head cobra parts laying around the "shop" @1997cobra haha we gotta do his car as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 @Sleeperstang1994 I'll check it out, thanks. Did you make your own, or buy them? @Det_Riot I thought you had done it, or planned to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperstang1994 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 @WildWillyWalker just bought me some stock square tube for my birthday! im fairly certain its 2X4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWillyWalker Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 @WildWillyWalker just bought me some stock square tube for my birthday! im fairly certain its 2X4 You got it. 2x4 it tis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I've been lurking these forums for a while now, I think this will be my first post. Anyways I have a build thread on the corral that I've copied and pasted this from. Maybe this will help you out some. This is the first time I did through the floor subs. It was a lot of work but I'm happy with how it turned out. I've seen people do them a little differently than me so don't think this is the only or best way. I used 2x2 and 2x3 11 gauge steel. The 2x2 lays in the front rail and is plug welded to the factory frame rails through the sides, the 2x3 goes into the rear frame rails and also will be plug welded through the sides. I'm also planning on getting some MM Full length subs....the end result will be something much like Griggs complete frame kit. I am not reusing the factory seats, but they cleared these just fine with no modifications. If you have any questions just ask and I'll try to help. Starting work on the through the floor subs. They are 2x2 and 2x3 11 gauge steel. The 2x2 lays in the front frame rail and the 2x3 goes into the rear frame rail. It was a real pain in the ass but I didn't see any on the market like this, and this is how I wanted them so that's that. How people do these in a few days is beyond me. I bet I have at LEAST a weeks worth of work in these over the course of a couple months. Access hole I cut to see inside the rear frame rail. 2x2 laying in the front rail pretty good now. Getting the 2x3 and the angle of it to meet the 2x2 into place. It goes into the rear rail a good amount. What I did with the 2x3 is slice it with a thin cut off wheel on 3 sides of it and bend it over with a pry bar until it was at the right angle. I'd bend it till the gap was gone, put another thin slice in it, bend it till the gap was gone, slice it, etc. Snuck up on it. Got it where I wanted it, tacked it. Checking the fit Got the dash and seat back outta the way. Starting to get the drivers side fitted up before any welding of them. This is the passenger side into the rear frame rail. I've heard of guys putting the 2x3 far enough in to reinforce the LCA bolt which I wanted to do but that must be a Fox only thing because on my car there is a big divot in the frame rail that prevents it from going in any further. Perhaps the cut that divot out so they can go past it...... Hole for the 2x3 on the drivers side. About that divot I talked about earlier in the pass side.....this one wont even allow me to put the 2x3 into the rear rail at all. I thought about notching the 2x3 to go around the divot OR cutting out the divot and welding in some flat stock later on. I chose the latter. Forgot to take pics though as I was kind of pissed about it. Got the 2x3 in and lined up with the 2x2. Same process as the other side so no pics of that. Nothing is welded yet I plan on painting the insides of these things after all welding is complete. Since putting these inside the frame rails is essentially making a metal sandwich I want to try to prevent my frame rails from rusting from the inside out as much as possible. I know what its like dealing with and repairing a rusty car and its not anything I want to deal with in the future with this car if I can help it. I cleaned the insides out well, scuffed up the insides of the frame rails, scuffed up the outside of the connectors, and applied primer. Like I said I will saturate the insides with paint and cavity wax when I'm finished welding. Heavy metal broom. Inside the 2x2 I drilled drain holes in the 2x2 in the same locations as the factory rails. Figured it'd be a good idea. All tacked in. No turning back from here.....without copious amounts of cursing. The way the 2x2 sat in the rail I had to tack it to the floor pan basically. This didn't seem very sound to me so I added these little strips on the sides. They got fully welded up later. Also I drilled 5-6 small holes in the sides of the rails afterwards with a spot weld drill bit and plug welded the 2x2 to the front frame rail. These aren't going anywhere. I did many practice welds on extra 2x2 and 2x3 tubing to ensure I was getting full penetration with my setup before doing the deed with these. Whipped up these little plates for the rear bulkhead where the 2x3 enters the rear rails, inspired by Griggs. They didn't turn out as nice as I wanted but it's okay. I think they're mostly aesthetic, and they'll be covered. Made covers for the sections I cut out. This is about where I left it. I was more than ready to move on to another part of the car. Still a few loose ends to tie up but I will tend to them later when I come back around to the interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Uhhh best first post ever!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnbyu Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 What he said!!!! NIce man.. I'd like to do this myself but, I don't want to pull the dash out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Holy first post batman! Love it! Just what I was looking for. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I must have too many pics for one post. I thought I just fixed the links but apparently not. The pics show up when you click on them though. You could probably get away with leaving the dash in but I would recommend covering it so any sparks from cutting won't damage it. The dash was actually in when I fitted the pass side rail. Also be careful of and aware of the headliner and any other pieces. I didn't have any issues but it also wouldn't be a bad idea to cover the glass from the inside with a protective paper. I believe 3M makes some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnbyu Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 of course.. I'd wrap everything like I was going to throw a grenade in there lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997cobra Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 @Det_Riot, get your car over here so we can do this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperstang1994 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Chances are you can get his car done before I get mine done! Who's up for more snow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 expecting 4" of snow tomorrow evening. i know thats not a lot for you northern folks, but here in Va. the world will stop turning. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperstang1994 Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 ICE cubes in texas cause a state wide shut down. with it being -11 degrees out side today im not planing much work for this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330CubeGt Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 -11 where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Wow great metal fab work @SublimeRT! Probably should make that a "how-to" thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 That is some awesome work @SublimeRT I definitely recognize the user name! I tried editing your post for you to get all the images to show up but the images per post limit is at 20 so I can't get them all to show up ( @Steve@CJPP ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 That definitely should be cut and copied to it's own how to thread. super informative! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve@CJPP Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 That is some awesome work @SublimeRT I definitely recognize the user name! I tried editing your post for you to get all the images to show up but the images per post limit is at 20 so I can't get them all to show up ( @Steve@CJPP )more than 20? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 more than 20? Yea his post had 43 images, the 20th image is the last one shown, after that it just displays the link location of the image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve@CJPP Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Yea his post had 43 images, the 20th image is the last one shown, after that it just displays the link location of the image.gotcha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Image limit raised! Enjoy all the pics of that through the floor goodness fellas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Thanks again for the kind words guys. I'm glad I could help out. 95riosnake, thanks for fixing the pictures. You've probably seen me over on SVTP; that's where I've seen you and your sweet ride. Doesn't seem like the pushrod cars get much love over there though and it seems like every other SN95 thread is about what gears, what springs, imrc deletes, and do 03-04 Cobra Eatons fit 4v b-heads. The pics and vids buffet is the main attraction there for me these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Thanks again for the kind words guys. I'm glad I could help out. 95riosnake, thanks for fixing the pictures. You've probably seen me over on SVTP; that's where I've seen you and your sweet ride. Doesn't seem like the pushrod cars get much love over there though and it seems like every other SN95 thread is about what gears, what springs, imrc deletes, and do 03-04 Cobra Eatons fit 4v b-heads. The pics and vids buffet is the main attraction there for me these days.Thanks! That's definitely where I recognize you from. And yea, although my car seemed to be received pretty well over there most of the time, if you don't have a 700+ rwhp terminator or GT500 you're at the little kids' table. I stop by the pics/vids section here and there but 99% of my mustang activity online is here now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWillyWalker Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Beautiful job! I love me some metal work, especially when it's for function! I like the low profile look of the 2x2. Never thought of the plug welding but that is a fantastic idea in my book. What are you doing in terms of carpeting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 :drool: Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musturd Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 This is what separates the men from the boys , I'm so glad I went this route . For one I need as much clearance as I can get and I like the fact it makes it more like a continuous frame rail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Beautiful job! I love me some metal work, especially when it's for function! I like the low profile look of the 2x2. Never thought of the plug welding but that is a fantastic idea in my book. What are you doing in terms of carpeting? Thanks. I have not decided yet whether I'm going to make all the floors and everything a bit more presentable then paint or if I'm going to buy a new carpet. The carpet would cover everything except the 2x3 which I'd just slit the carpet and wrap it around/under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Thanks. I have not decided yet whether I'm going to make all the floors and everything a bit more presentable then paint or if I'm going to buy a new carpet. The carpet would cover everything except the 2x3 which I'd just slit the carpet and wrap it around/under. Did you happen to tie into the LCA bolt for some extra stiffness back there? About how much stock did you buy of each tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I did not tie into the lca bolt, though I wanted to. I did the pass side connector first and if you look at the pics you'll see an indention in the frame rail that prevented me from putting the 2x3 in any further. I just settled at that rather than cut out the indention because it was actually getting pretty difficult to put the 2x3 in even that much; it is a pretty snug fit. That orange mallet you see in the pics was what I had to use to knock the 2x3 in as much as I did. It was also pretty difficult to remove the 2x3, which I had to do a few times during the process of fitting the pieces, mainly to get the angle of the bend correct. If you notice in the pics I cut a hole in the rear floorboard on the drivers side....this was so I could cut the 2x3 on the bottom while getting the bend at the correct angle, rather than remove the 2x3 over and over like I had to do on the pass side. I will actually be cutting out a section of the floor on the pass side too so I can weld the bottom seams of the 2x3 and 2x2. And when I'm done with that I will make some new floor pan sections to weld in. All this could be prevented by cutting the 2x3 fully rather than 3 sides and bending like i did, and just using 2 separate pieces to make the angle and welding the bottom prior to installing the piece in the car. I didn't do that because I didn't want to risk any pulling/warping from welding out of the car to mess up the fitment of the pieces. Though I could skip welding the bottom seams and gusset the sides and it would probably be okay. On the drivers side, you will see that indention right at the start of the rail that prevented me from putting the 2x3 in at all, so I didn't have much choice but to cut out the indention so I could make it the same as the other side. Like I said before I've seen other people do them differently and my way may not be the best but that's how I chose to do it. Off the top of my head I'd say I bought about 8-10 ft of 2x2 and probably about 6 ft of 2x3. I can get more accurate measurements when I go to the shop tomorrow. Sorry for the long reply...I get carried away sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997cobra Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 dont worry about long replies, that's what we need. @Det_Riot, the lca tie in is up to you. Its extra work, but im sure we can do it. I feel like its important given your top secret plans. We need to start on them soon, being in a rush always kills quality, and im not about to pull another hack like we did on your exhaust last year.. shits gott be right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I took measurements real quick today. I used about 43" of 2x2 and about 22" of 2x3 on the passenger side and about the same on the drivers side. So you could get 8 ft of 2x2 and 4 ft of 2x3 to replicate what I did. I'd get more though just in case. Something like at least 10ft 2x2 and 6ft 2x3 and also any extra you might want for some outriggers to the rockers like the Wolfe through the floor subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997cobra Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks for measuring @SublimeRT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
