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frank830

need advice on what mod to put on my mustang and how to make it look better

  

2 members have voted

  1. 1. which mods to put on my 1994 mustang gt

    • how to make my mustang look better
      0
    • what should I do to the engine to make it strongee and whay parts should I upgrade
      2


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I'd say a A9L swap but that's complicated now that the PIH harnesses are no longer available and you have to re-pin. That is, to this day, far and away the biggest SOTP feeling mod I've ever done to a stock motor'd vehicle minus a power adder.

For the amount of money it takes to do a PIH swap, he could buy one of my chips and see a much more significant result.

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Ugh, not getting into chip vs A9L again. I doubt he would do it anyway because he isn't a DIY guy, chip would be easier for him.  From my personal experience though, if I ever get another 5.0 SN95 the A9L will be the first thing I do.  Back to back pulling into the driveway with the J4J1 and out with the A9L is like a completely different car and I never had an issue with a bolt on in the 7 years before I did my HCI.  FWIW I did put the J4J1 back in for the dyno tune after my HCI because everyone kept telling me it was better and also because I sold the PIH to make up a lot of the dyno tune cost lol.  Car made 300/325 with the J4J1 in there. 

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Thats nice, love the sound

And to lower your car did you use shocks and springs or did you do the coilover kit?

I heard the coilover kit are too stiff for daily driving?

depending on how you set up the coilover's it can ride like factory.

 

I did shocks and springs for my car. it was way cheaper and fit my budget.  I would just go that route if I was you at this point.  I think @Psychorugby still has a set he's trying to sell.  

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on a 5.0 expect pretty much every exhaust to drone unless you're running the stock H pipe.  or unless you buy a pretty quiet catback.

 

My ultraflows did not drone.  They were mild at idle and off idle, light hum on the highway instead of a drone but would SCREAM when you stomped the throttle.  Loved those mufflers.

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My ultraflows did not drone.  They were mild at idle and off idle, light hum on the highway instead of a drone but would SCREAM when you stomped the throttle.  Loved those mufflers.

 

link to those?  If they are mild at idle I'd consider that a quiet catback.  Even the stock exhaust got loud when you floored it lol.

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Thats true thank you for the advice

And

Do you know much about the Mac cat back exhaust?

Do you have a bad review on it?

 

I have MAC Pro Dumps on my 95 5.0.. Basically MAC Flowpath mufflers with turn downs, but I added tailpipes. I had an offroad H with the MAC "catback" and it sounded so mean.. Added longtubes and an offroad X.. Its one of the loudest and pissed off sounding exhausts I've ever heard.. Nice and loud tone, raspy, quiet while cruising and no drone even with longtube headers.. MAC all the way.

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S Trim is a supercharger.  

 

Lets get back on topic here.  I'm going to give you some insight and hopefully set some realistic expectations for you.  

 

You said that this is a daily driver.  when I first got my 94 It wasn't my first mustang - It was my 5th.  I'm no stranger to working on these cars.  Anyway,  i wanted it to be comfortable.  the way I looked at it was that Any go-fast upgrades were a want, not a need.  I also wanted it to be reliable.  with that being said, the first thing I did was the suspension:  Subframe connectors (maximum motorsport weld in) and tokico blue shocks / struts.  This made a WORLD of difference in how the car felt on the street.  It didn't feel 'old' anymore.  I kept the stock springs - they work and the car won't bottom out with a few buddies in the back.  Also with the stock springs you don't need: bump steer kit, caster camber plates, etc…

 

Next I changed out the rear upper and lower control arms and replaced the 8.8 housing bushings with new poly bushings.  while the shocks and subframes were new, the control arms i installed were NOT.  I sourced them used for less than 200 bucks - they don't need to be adjustable.  and the aftermarket control arms have worlds better bushings than the stock ones.  The stock bushings in the rear were absolutely destroyed at 100k miles. from the factory they are rubber(in the housing and the control arms), and they just deteriorate over time.  This is also something that you can do on your own as long as you do your homework!  by this time it was a few months after I got the car.

 

Now it NEEDED things, like my tires were shot.  That was 600 right there for GOOD daily driver tires (grand touring all season, so I didn't get stuck in the snow).  then it needed the rear rebuilt - it was bleeding and whining like a bearing was shot (turns out it was the pinion bearing).  Instead of just rebuilding it, I did a complete rebuild and I put a MILD set of gears in it (remember, daily driver!).  I went with 3.31 gears - take out from an 08GT with a few thousand miles.  I also rebuilt the carrier while I was at it because I had the 'one wheel peel' going on.  even after all this, the pinion seal still went out after another 100k miles, and the rear was yanked out of the car again. 

 

Then the harmonic damper separated, so I had to do that and a timing cover seal. another 60 bucks and some wrenching time.  then the alternator died - i got away with just rebuilding that instead of buying a new one, but it was still another 70 bucks and some downtime.  It would have been even more downtime if i had to wait for my next paycheck.  Then I needed brakes…. etc etc.

 

my point is here, if this is your daily driver, start from the bottom up, keep reliability in mind, and keep some $$ on the side - when something fails or needs to be replaced, you won't be kicking yourself for buying a cam when your TFI module fails and you're out of cash.  Also, if something needs to be replaced, try and upgrade it a bit - aftermarket instead of OEM.  

 

perspective:  there are 223,435k miles on my 94.  I bought it at 102k miles in Jan of 2009.  5 years, 121k miles brings us to yesterday.  I've spent $26,000 on fuel, parts and repairs so far.  thats just over 5k a year.  I have my own garage and I am certainly capable of doing all the labor myself - i've been doing it for years.  I can't even imagine how much money it would cost me if I had to pay for labor - maybe double that?  

 

I was just under it last night replacing the fuel pump because that failed and I had to have it towed home.  The engine (intake to pan) and manual transmission (except for a shifter and bearing retainer) are STOCK.

 

Sorry for the novel… maybe I had too much coffee this morning!!!  

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just get an offroad h-pipe if you dont have emissions. they're like $130 on summitracing

 

/thread.

You have to excuse him, he lives in a winter wonderland and tends to forget to support the sponsors of this wonderful website lol.

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/mac-h-pipe-2-1-2-inch-off-road-for-shorty-stock-headers-5-0l-1994-1995/p/HPM3/

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/mac-off-road-h-pipe-2-1-2-long-tube-headers-1994-1995/p/HPML3/

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