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SublimeRT

94 Cobra #3815

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Ugh my God man, you might be my new hero. That series of pics got my OCD tingling (in a good way), I think you and I should move in next door to each other and collaborate on the most meticulously built SN of all time lol.

 

I really wish I had a good air compressor setup at home, I love using our little right angle grinder at work. I feel like I'm watching OCC when I hear that little guy whirring along. I just don't have the room and don't want to make all the noise with the compressor kicking on all the time. I really need to sell this townhouse and get into something with some elbow room so I can make some noise without feeling like "that guy" who is always causing a ruckus lol.

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Can't like this enough @SublimeRT!  Thanks for the pictures... you've got me wanting to go to my engine bay and make some notes for when my friend comes over to help finish welding everything up!

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@SublimeRT that's exactly what I was looking for... and then some, wasn't expecting the step by step lol!  Lots of useful info for people to resource later.  There's so many of those little 3M pads available now it's redic.  All my grinding needs to be done at the body shop unfortunately since my home air compressor is a vagina and can't keep up. 

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that's one hell of a write up for someone who is just getting into stuff like this.  i haven't even started welding yet so when the time comes i'll definitely be referring back to it.

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Ugh my God man, you might be my new hero. That series of pics got my OCD tingling (in a good way), I think you and I should move in next door to each other and collaborate on the most meticulously built SN of all time lol.

 

I really wish I had a good air compressor setup at home, I love using our little right angle grinder at work. I feel like I'm watching OCC when I hear that little guy whirring along. I just don't have the room and don't want to make all the noise with the compressor kicking on all the time. I really need to sell this townhouse and get into something with some elbow room so I can make some noise without feeling like "that guy" who is always causing a ruckus lol.

 

Haha, would be pretty kickass to have a neighbor like you and do a build together.

 

I hear you on the noise with the compressor and air tools.  My compressor is actually somewhat quiet, but the air tools themselves really scream.  My neighbors are further away than in most subdivisions, but even so I know they can hear me, so I try to be considerate about it.  One of them has even asked me if I'm in need of a bigger compressor.  Out here in the woods of east Texas though people make all kinds of racket, especially with their guns and tractors and everything, so nobody really minds.

 

 

Can't like this enough @SublimeRT!  Thanks for the pictures... you've got me wanting to go to my engine bay and make some notes for when my friend comes over to help finish welding everything up!

 

Thanks and no problem! 

 

 

@SublimeRT that's exactly what I was looking for... and then some, wasn't expecting the step by step lol!  Lots of useful info for people to resource later.  There's so many of those little 3M pads available now it's redic.  All my grinding needs to be done at the body shop unfortunately since my home air compressor is a vagina and can't keep up. 

 

Haha, good deal, yeah, I kinda got carried away with it but it is fun for me.  Perhaps you and Dan could use electric tools for the time being?  I know there are electric die grinders, though I've never used one so I don't know how they are, unless you count a Dremel.  One of the best things about air tools though IMO is the ability to regulate the speed via the trigger.  The electrics just don't have the adjustability.  The straight die grinders are real air hogs though.  The Blue Point angle grinder though is actually pretty good about air use compared to my others and it is pretty quiet, like Dan said it just kinda hums along.  There can be hardly any air left in the tank and it'll run just fine aside from bogging down a bit easier.  Another thought is, you guys could add a larger piggyback tank to your existing compressor and get some more run time before the compressor has to cycle.  Maybe knock down the majority of the welds with an electric angle grinder or die grinder, then do the finishing with the right angle air grinder with the sanding disc. 

 

 

that's one hell of a write up for someone who is just getting into stuff like this.  i haven't even started welding yet so when the time comes i'll definitely be referring back to it.

 

Thanks.  I'm no expert but I do enjoy sharing what I do know with those that will appreciate and use it.  I also like to get feedback on stuff because ya never know what you can learn from others.  I know when I first got into this stuff though it would have been great if I could have just gone to one place to find out what I needed and what steps to take to help me get on my way.  Is there a thread anywhere on here that's just fabrication and welding tips and tricks?  If not maybe one could be started sometime to compile all the knowledge from the members here.  An SN95Source member knowledge database. 

 

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i feel like this build is already 100+ pages long, and i see only 2 pages.  Incredible.  the amount of time you are puttng into it... i do not have that patience hah 

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Just got through all these pictures. Amazing work! I absolutely love metal work and I only wish I could do things that well. I'll be following this build closely.

Edit: What book did you use to find the dimensions when you were using the plumb bobs?

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Welp never posting a picture of my engine bay.....

 

Nah man you gotta keep it up.  You're doing a good job with it!  I'm still curious how you got rid of the pinch weld across the firewall. 

 

 

Just got through all these pictures. Amazing work! I absolutely love metal work and I only wish I could do things that well. I'll be following this build closely.

Edit: What book did you use to find the dimensions when you were using the plumb bobs?

 

Thanks!  And you can do it.  Just like anything else - practice, practice, practice and if you take a step back and look at your work now and then you'll see it's getting better.  I had never even welded or fabbed anything out of metal up until about six months before starting this project so if I can do it, anyone else can.  When I look at some of the first things I did compared to some of the most recent things I did I can see progress, so I know I've made improvements, but there's still soooooo much to learn.  I've seen what other people make out of a flat piece of metal, other things they whip up like cages and even full chassis from scratch, and the quality of welds that other people lay down and I feel like I'm just getting my feet wet. 

 

For the dimensions I had a copy of the factory Ford service manual for the car on a CD which had a diagram for the frame dimensions in it.  I also found a few diagrams online just to confirm everything. 

 

 

WOW the metal work on the this car is crazy!!!!

 

 

how many hours so far?

 

Thanks!  I'm not sure how many hours.  I haven't kept up with it.  I've thought about it.  Maybe I'll start keeping track of it, just to see.

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I wish I had some updates to post everyday.  Would be the life to make that much progress on it.  That's correct, I'm going to put a carb on it.  I could never get this car to run right with the EFI even after a custom tune from a reputable tuner, though it was not an in-person dyno tune.  But even so it was not a radical combo to begin with.  The only deviations from stock were the long tubes, it was bored .030 over, and had a mild cam in it, prob a Ford letter cam; had a little lope and ran outta steam around 5500.  Before the custom tune I tried to tune it myself with a Tweecer and BE, and I just couldn't get the hang of it.  Perhaps if I knew exactly what cam it would have been easier to tune.  Seemed like no matter what though the car would surge bad at idle, sometimes wouldn't even idle at all on its own, would try to stall out when pushing in the clutch to come to a stop.  I got pretty good at working the brake and gas pedal at the same time that's for sure.  I drove it like this for years.  I even put the car up for sale a few times because I was tired of it, but these days I'm glad it didn't sell.  I went through the car so many times checking for any bad or out of adjustment sensors, vacuum leaks, mechanical problems, etc. etc. and always came up empty handed.

 

I guess it all just left a bad taste in my mouth.  Though it's been a long time, I have tuned carb'd cars and got them to run pretty decent.  And I don't mind having to tune it up every so often.  Then the less complex wiring system and generally cleaner looks are both bonuses for me.  I don't want this to turn into a carb vs EFI debate as my mind is made up, but I just don't see what EFI has to offer me and this particular car that I can't accomplish with a carb.

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NO debates as requested :D  just curious. I can understand the frustrations though. My car was orignially a v6 i swaped to a 302 i had it running good for a while, disconnected the battery to do my paint job, it never ran right again. I got mad one afternoon pulled the motor and sold it. no i have no motors :(

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quick question. What thickness steel are you using for the plates that your welding to. at the strut towers and also where the dash bar went? If you want me to start PM'ing you so i stop messing your thread up let me know ;)  i have a border line obsesion now :D

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Hey no problem, I'll reply here in case anyone else is curious. I used 1/8" thick steel plate. This is pretty much the standard for roll bar/cage to chassis mounting plates and required by most racing organizations so that's what I used. I think they generally like to see 6"x6" plates but that is more for the main attachment points. For example if you had a 6 point cage/roll bar the 6 points would be the 2 at the main hoop, the 2 for the rear down bars, and the 2 for the door bars. These would all have to be the required 6x6 and any additional attachment points could be different sized. The dash and strut tower bars aren't the main points so I made the plates to fit the area. Be sure to check with any organizations you may be racing with though as they might have different requirements. I believe I've seen some that have a limit on how large the plates can be, some that go by total area of all the plates in square inches, you get the idea.

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last question for the night. Im starting to feel bad :(  looking at the dash bar verticals and the strut bars. i was out eyeballing my car, i dont see any issues with doing the horizontal and verticals. the drivers side strut bar should be fine. However i know you had said about a customer HVAC system. did you test fitment with the passenger side strut bar and the factory HVAC box. I think that will be in the way. Last spot of interest for me was on the dash frame where you made a new passenger side support bracket. I noticed it had to be moved forward to clear the bar. have you checked fitment with the air bag in that location? I just re read the entire thread LOL and did not find these answers. Thanks again i do appreciate it. Your honestly driving me to work on my car :)

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It's all good man.  Glad I could motivate you.  I was out messing with the car anyways so I checked some things out for you and anyone else wondering the same things.

 

This is as far as the airbag will go in.

aug32014018_zps5e807b30.jpg

 

aug32014019_zpseb3727d4.jpg

 

aug32014022_zps15eacc70.jpg

I think this would be an easy fix though if you wanted to keep the air bag.

 

 

I tried to put the HVAC box back up there but couldn't get it in without taking out the whole dash frame.  Just looking at it all though I don't think it will work.  I took a plumb bob on the edge of inlet from the cowl and as you can see the fishing line hits the strut tower bar.

 

aug32014024_zps8c7588b8.jpg

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Thanks for checking all of this! I think I could move the bracket back on the dash fame a bit to fit the air bag. looks like there is plenty of room. as for the HVAC box. well dang it. might have to get creative with some bends on that one lol. Thanks again!

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Haha sorry man. I've been working on the car but not actually working ON the car, unless you count mocking up ideas with paper taped to the car and stuff like that. I rearranged the shop about a month ago and got the car out in the open. Before that it was kinda tucked away. So I can actually see the whole car now and walk around it, open the doors, trunk, and everything. So I've been just taking a step back and reevaluating things, planning, researching, doodling, and all that good stuff.

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Not much to report with the Cobra.  I am still in the planning stages with the majority of the car.  It's kind of at the point where I can't do this until that is done, can't do that until this is done, and can't do this until I have this tool or part.  The biggest thing holding me up right now is (well, $$ really, ha) I need a 220v welder, preferably a TIG, so that I can get the chassis and cage squared away.  I had some extra cash recently but I had to get some new tires for my truck.  I've been wanting to go lower with it, and the thing preventing that was the tall tires.  So the new ones are shorter and I also ordered a few parts to drop it more at the same time, because it'd look funny with it's current stance and short tires, haha.  But a while ago my girlfriend's parents gave me a '96 Crown Vic.  Has high miles, but runs good and is pretty clean.  I need to freshen up a few things then am going to sell it, and that's my welder.  I have been procrastinating with it though. 

 

I have been messing with the car some, just not anything I think would be very interesting to people.  Been mocking up body mod ideas I have with cardboard and 1/8" steel wire.  I made some stands out of 2x4s to get the car up in the air and dial in the stance so I can get a better feel for the body mods.  I could start some bodywork with my little Hobart MIG but I'd really like to get the chassis done first, and I'd really like to TIG the bodywork vs MIG.  I will say though that when the real work finally resumes that the majority of the work posted up so far will be cut out and redone. 

 

Here's a pic after I got one of the stands done and this corner sitting decently.

CAM00117_zpsvrbexial.jpg

 

Here's a pic of some wire I've crudely taped to the quarter.  Similar to the red GT with Kompression wheels, but it will be different from it.

SepOct2014016_zps9fedc119.jpg

 

Door handle idea.  You'd just push the handle down to open.  I really like Scott's Kindigit handles, but I looked at the price and well, I don't wanna copy him either.

CAM00001_zpswzpk0oqt.jpg

 

 

I guess while I'm at it I'll throw this up.  Not my car but it was a good starting point for me.  A little photoshop I did with a few ideas I've got.  Not my ideal wheels, needs a wing or spoiler, different hood and some other stuff, but I think I like it so far.

nxqqg9-lwbrearbump2sidescoopdoorhandlemi

 

So, feedback??  Nothing is set in stone.  Heck, for all I know it might just end up being a factory looking '94 Cobra lowered on some '95Rs, lol.

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i don't know that i'm all about the lower side skirts.  seems out of place somehow to me.  the door line being up so high is really throwing me.  

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the door line being up so high is really throwing me.  

 

Isn't the door line in the same spot? The side skirt is just lower from what I'm seeing. Kind of reminds me of a rounded, SN version of terminator side skirts. I like the concept, I'd be curious to see it from a 3/4 front view.

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Isn't the door line in the same spot? The side skirt is just lower from what I'm seeing. Kind of reminds me of a rounded, SN version of terminator side skirts. I like the concept, I'd be curious to see it from a 3/4 front view.

the door doesn't appear to be any different, but the fact that the skirt is so much bigger and completely smoothed it, it's just throwing my perception of the door line and the door hovering in nothing.  i'm not saying i hate it or anything but i would like to see a different angle and such.  i'm probably nitpicking it too much 

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Hold the phone, am I seeing the wheel well pushed forward to account for a forward offset K member? That is some serious work right there. But IMO that's the only way a forward offset K doesn't result in funky wheel placement, visually speaking.

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Hold the phone, am I seeing the wheel well pushed forward to account for a forward offset K member? That is some serious work right there. But IMO that's the only way a forward offset K doesn't result in funky wheel placement, visually speaking.

 

I never even noticed that!  I was with Ryan about the door/sideskirt until you said the skirts were bigger.  It's like a really tough "what's different in these pictures" game!

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I am by no means a photoshop expert and it is not complete yet either, so it's not entirely accurate of what I have in mind.  I'll list the things I changed so far.

 

-shaved antenna

-shaved door handle and lock

-shaved fuel door

-shaved rear side marker

-larger side scoop

-if you look real close my door handle idea is in there

-wheels moved forward 5" - inspired by the FR500 Concept car.  I shouldn't have to mod the hood at all for this as I'm not lengthening the whole car.

-Cobra emblem moved forward, centered on the fender

-rear bumper shortened a bit - inspired by the Super Stallion

-smoothed and lowered rockers - inspired by the Terminators and Bullitts, the front portion of the SVO sideskirts, and old Mustangs and musclecars like Challengers.  I prefer that look of the rockers wrapping under the car a bit vs ground effect type stuff like the Saleen skirts for example.  I probably should add some more shading to the bottom of the rocker in the edited photo to give it more of that tucked under look I'm going for but I don't want to do it too much seeing as it's a somewhat modern car.  Some more shading would also make the side of the car look shorter.  I'm not planning on making them any lower than the SVO and Saleen skirts though, but I understand the smoothness makes it look taller.  I'm still debating on whether or not to do a side exhaust as well.  I've had an idea for years of a cool way to do rear exit exhaust.  Side exit is sweet too though and if I went that way I might try something like on the new SRT Vipers.  That would help break up the side a bit as well.

 

FR500 Concept - 5" longer wheelbase over stock. pretty smooth rockers too.

1999_Mustang_FR500_Concept_002.jpg

 

Super Stallion - It even has some pretty smooth rockers that l like too and shaved door handles, but the main focus is the rear bumper

p31966_large+Ford_Mustang_Super_Stallion

 

Rockers - you can see the front of the SVO (nice car whoevers it is btw ;) )  is pretty smooth and nearly follows the line of the fender

rockers_zps106b141e.jpg

 

Viper exhaust

vipersideexhaust_zpsb43d42a0.jpg

 

Here is another photoshop I did.  It'll probably be hard to tell what is different compared to the first pic I posted but the rocker is not as low, the wheelbase has not been extended as much though still longer than stock, and the Cobra emblem hasn't been moved.

nxqqg9-lwbrearbump2sidescoopdoorhandle_z

 

 

I too would really like so see some more angles of it all.  A nice front 3/4 view would really help.  I don't know if I could photoshop something like that from that angle though.  These side views are about all I'm good for in photoshop.  But that is why I've put the car up in the air and am making some mock up pieces to get an idea of it all.

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love all the ideas. especially the front stretch witch I would love to see done but dam that in its self would be one heck of an adventure. not just the body mods but drivetrain mods to bout on that set up. My mind is spinning just thinking about it. I guess that's the time you cut out the towers and toss the McPherson set up in the trash

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Basically it's cutting strips from top to bottom n just the right spot from donor fenders to weld n to just the right spot in your fenders. Little patchwork but nothing crazy. It's same concept as doin a choptop on an ol'sled. They get donor roofs cause they have to widen the roof. Sounds crazy, but really wouldn't be that bad. And you woundnt have to touch shock towers or drivetrain, you already would have moved the drivetrain fwd with the k-member.

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The rear is nothing but your overlooking the 5" wheelbase extension unless you plan on shifting from the midfle of your center console and a host of other isdues youve not calculated lol

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I guess I just assumed, perhaps foolishly, that he was going to extend the wheelbase with forward offset a-arms.  If that's the case, Evilcw311 is correct, it really is that simple.  I hate to use this as an example, but they did it on that Trucks program on SpikeTV with that road-race Mazda pickup with the 03 Cobra engine that they built.

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