94 Cobra #3815

[Sho Amo]

Engine bay shot got my pants a bit tight.

[Steve-Oh]

GTAW is looking awesome man! I always found that I made the nicest welds on thinner metal over thicker material. I guess because most of the thinner stuff we welded was finish work. Regardless, once you get that happy unison between your hands and foot you'll be golden, although it seems like you're already there.

I case you're not already do this, I always found that before you start your weld that you're comfortable through the whole weld bead range. Too many times I would get set and start welding, then 1/3 of the way through I would get all bound up and have to reposition. I learned that before starting the weld I would position myself as if to weld and dry run my hand through the intended weld length, then adjust my position accordingly to be comfortable throughout the whole intended range. After all this steel work, time to upgrade to stainless steel... And then ALUMINUM! Aluminum is fun, you'll love to hate it [emoji6]

Lastly, how are you holding the torch? I've seen people hold them in all sorts of goofy ways but the most stable for me was holding it like a pencil. You'll burn the shit out of your hand numerous times this way but at least the weld will look pretty lol!

All in all I think you're doing a fantastic job! Not many people pick up GTAW very well. Also not to discount the rest of what you posted, your metal working skills are through the roof. Makes me miss my old job (but not really [emoji6] ). More or less I just miss the equipment I had access to! Keep doing awesome things!

Sent from Space

[Blackmage]

wow that fender. if thats any indication of your work, the stang is gonna look sick when its done. 

[Psychorugby]

Wow... I am going home and burning my stuff to the ground.  That fender is amazing.  I would hang it on the wall!

[Prokiller]

i love when you post up.  so much detail and amazing work it really shows.  i can't wait to see more 

[Tabres]

 

 

 

I can't help but see the bottom portion of that fender as a face that seems to be exclaiming, "Oh God, what did he do to that wood?!?"

[Prokiller]

I can't help but see the bottom portion of that fender as a face that seems to be exclaiming, "Oh God, what did he do to that wood?!?"

hahahah that made me laugh

[Drake]

Is it done yet

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[SublimeRT]

Hahaha, @Tabres that is funny.  I never noticed that before.  That car is an old Jaguar XK120 or 140.  Maybe a 150.  Not too sure.  It's cool, but not my style.  Wray specializes in old Jags though; there were quite a few around.   

 

@Drake, haha, nothing much to report right now unfortunately.  Aside from the little bit left to finish in the engine bay, and then paint and mocking things up, there is not much to do on the car until I can get a chassis table made up.  I have been keeping an eye out for some suitable scraps.  Something like some 4x4 .25" wall is what I have in mind.  I looked up scrap metal yards though within a few hours driving distance and will probably start checking them out soon.  I am quite tempted to go ahead and get started with the chassis work, but I know I should be patient and wait.  I think seeing all the Mustang Week pics and vids has got me fired up.  BTW, @Det_Riot I got the MW shirt and stickers.  Fits great, thanks.  My lady opened the package and said what is this for?  I explained to her what Mustang Week is and all that jazz and she said, "Well why didn't we go?!"  I said, "I can't go to Mustang Week without my Mustang!"  You know, I was thinking about it, and I've owned a Mustang since 2004 and have known about and been wanting to go for several years, but never have for some reason.  And now I'm a lot further away here in TX than I was in TN.  I'll make it someday though.

 

I did get the cart for the welder operational though.  @Steve-Oh thanks for the tips and compliments on both the welding and fender.  I try to take dry runs, but I often forget.  While welding the cart up though, I kept what you said in mind and always took my time and did dry runs and didn't just stick with the first position I got in.  It really helped me out.  My left hand feeding the rod is still slower than I want.  I think I have it in my head a little bit, perhaps from all the MIG welding, that slowing down and/or stopping is bad and once I get moving along I gotta keep it going till I'm done.  The dabbing is good, but I just can't feed it fast enough yet to keep up with how fast I want to move the torch.  There's two ways I've been trying things.  I'll just hold the rod and dab until my hand gets too close to the action and starts cooking and then I'll back off the pedal a bit and feed some rod.  Or I will try to feed a little bit with every dab to just maintain some distance between my hand and the puddle.  I do notice though some people have real slow travel speed, starts/stops, pulsing the pedal, and straight dabbing, and others are flooring the pedal, moving right along, no stops, and their hand feeding the wire is like a damn MIG, ha.  I don't know if it's a matter of skill or just personal preference/style.  I'll figure it out though with more practice.

 

I am anxious to try some aluminum.  Stainless as well.  I just need some filler.  I'll get some soon though; I need to get more ER70-S6 as I'm almost out.  I want to try the 'aluminum drill'.  It should be good practice and help with feeding the rod.  As far as holding the torch, I do kind of hold it like a pencil and hold it fairly close to the cup.  Sometimes I will rotate my palm up or down to get a better angle, but I'm always holding it between my thumb and index finger.  

 

Anyways, yeah, I got the cart operational.  I'll call this Phase 1.  I really just needed the welder mobile in the shop.  Phase 2 will be clean-up, paint, MUCH larger casters, some hooks for the torch, pedal, and ground, and a few other little touches.  This is when I'll also touch up the paint on the welder itself.  

 

I made it so the cooler would sit nice up top.  I discovered while welding up the cart that the CK130 air cooled torch I have isn't really enough for this 1/8 and 3/16 metal.  After 3-4 welds I had to let things cool off.  Shouldn't be too much of a surprise though since it IS a small torch.  I think I'll get a water cooled #20 sometime for the thick stuff.

 

And tucked away in its corner without the cooler.  Need to make a little hook to hang up the power cable as well, as it's just piled up to the left of the machine.  

[95riosnake]

The welding cart looks great! I'm incredibly jealous of that welder and the great deal you got on it. I search CL every few days for a good deal on a big boy machine like that, no luck yet.

[SublimeRT]

Thanks, Dan. I'm sure you'll find something someday. I still search CL for a good drill press, vise, and all that good stuff like you have as well.

[Sho Amo]

The cart is cool! It does need to be painted doh. My vote is rio red :-)

[Steve-Oh]

I did get the cart for the welder operational though.  @Steve-Oh thanks for the tips and compliments on both the welding and fender.  I try to take dry runs, but I often forget.  While welding the cart up though, I kept what you said in mind and always took my time and did dry runs and didn't just stick with the first position I got in.  It really helped me out.  My left hand feeding the rod is still slower than I want.  I think I have it in my head a little bit, perhaps from all the MIG welding, that slowing down and/or stopping is bad and once I get moving along I gotta keep it going till I'm done.  The dabbing is good, but I just can't feed it fast enough yet to keep up with how fast I want to move the torch.  There's two ways I've been trying things.  I'll just hold the rod and dab until my hand gets too close to the action and starts cooking and then I'll back off the pedal a bit and feed some rod.  Or I will try to feed a little bit with every dab to just maintain some distance between my hand and the puddle.  I do notice though some people have real slow travel speed, starts/stops, pulsing the pedal, and straight dabbing, and others are flooring the pedal, moving right along, no stops, and their hand feeding the wire is like a damn MIG, ha.  I don't know if it's a matter of skill or just personal preference/style.  I'll figure it out though with more practice.

 

 

 

It's really a matter of personal preference and the way you have the machine setup.  Some set it up to have the max power required for the metal thickness at full pedal and others have it where they set it up beyond that so at half pedal their at the max for the metal thickness.  I never set it up to have max required at half pedal as I would also end up going to hot and end up with too much penetration or I the welds would look garbage.  

 

As for feeding the filler, try to hold it in between the tip of your index finger and middle finger and use those fingers to pull the wire forward along your thumb.  I haven't TIG welded in a while and if I remember correctly that's how I fed it.  You'll find a correct method that fits you.  I actually would do it like you did where I just left enough to weld a certain amount and would stop when my hand got too hot.  This works however you'll find if you need to run a longer pass you'll have too many stops and starts which can be annoying.  Also, when you start after you've stopped a weld, try to start the new weld slightly ahead of the end of the old and bring the puddle back into the old weld.  Should help with a nicer start/stop transition.  

 

As for the pulsing of the pedal, I've never done that as most of the machines we used had a pulse feature.   If I didn't have a pulse option on my machine I would just not pulse and say eff it.  

[SublimeRT]

The cart is cool! It does need to be painted doh. My vote is rio red :-)

 

Thanks!  I'm undecided on color....it'll probably just end up getting some semi-gloss black.

 

 

It's really a matter of personal preference and the way you have the machine setup.  Some set it up to have the max power required for the metal thickness at full pedal and others have it where they set it up beyond that so at half pedal their at the max for the metal thickness.  I never set it up to have max required at half pedal as I would also end up going to hot and end up with too much penetration or I the welds would look garbage.  

 

As for feeding the filler, try to hold it in between the tip of your index finger and middle finger and use those fingers to pull the wire forward along your thumb.  I haven't TIG welded in a while and if I remember correctly that's how I fed it.  You'll find a correct method that fits you.  I actually would do it like you did where I just left enough to weld a certain amount and would stop when my hand got too hot.  This works however you'll find if you need to run a longer pass you'll have too many stops and starts which can be annoying.  Also, when you start after you've stopped a weld, try to start the new weld slightly ahead of the end of the old and bring the puddle back into the old weld.  Should help with a nicer start/stop transition.  

 

As for the pulsing of the pedal, I've never done that as most of the machines we used had a pulse feature.   If I didn't have a pulse option on my machine I would just not pulse and say eff it.  

 

Thanks for the input.  I've been trying to weld as much as I can lately.  Got to a few days last week, then I ran out of filler rod.  I went to the local welding store, but all they had were 3/32 and 1/8 which is too big for my needs.  So I ordered some steel and aluminum, should be here this week.  Got some small gloves to try as well, though I'm worried they'll be too small.  The ones I have are mediums and fit okay, but I definitely know I'm wearing gloves.  I'm right on the line on their size chart.

 

I've been setting the machine just a little higher than I think I'll need, but not maxing it out.  I tried it a little and I don't think it's for me.  I think if all I need is 50 amps, I'd rather utilize the pedals full travel to control it.  As for pulsing, this machine doesn't have that feature either, but I do pulse the pedal quite a bit.  It helps my rhythm right now.  It would be cool to just go all pedal though.  

 

That sounds about like how I am feeding the filler.  I tried a few other ways and they didn't work as good.  I have been alternating hands to feed the filler and it is helping a lot, too.  That's a good tip with the starts and stops, thanks.  I'll have to remember that.  I was looking at some welds I did the other day and was thinking I need smoother tie ins.  

[SublimeRT]

Well guys a few steps in the right direction lately. A while ago I said I was working on something for the interior, specifically, the pedals. I got distracted from that for a bit, but revisited it about a week ago and have a plan now. The plan requires quite a bit of drilling through somewhat thick steel and aluminum and I'm not about to attempt it with a hand drill. For a while now I've been keeping an eye out on Craigslist for a decent drill press, amongst other things. Slim pickins around here for good machinery though. I wouldn't mind an old US made press, but honestly I don't want/need another little project to fix or restore. So I did some looking around and decided to get this Porter Cable. Speed range is from 300 to 3100 or so. It would be nice to have a little more on the low end, but I think it will get the job done for now. Like a lot of Chinese tools, some extra attention during assembly and some adjustments, and it's a pretty decent machine. I would like to get a new arbor shaft and chuck though.

As for the pedals themselves, I plan on making a new pedal box, transferring the MM brake lever over, and making a new clutch lever to actuate a hydraulic master cylinder located in line with the pedal, to the left of the brake master cylinder. Then just expanding on MMs idea of the aluminum firewall mount for the brake master cylinder, by making a larger one to mount both MCs on.

I also ordered a bunch of metal yesterday from the local steel supply. The main things I got were 3 16' 4"x4"x1/4" wall tubes for the main structure and legs of the chassis table, and 3"x3"x3/16" for the cross tubes. Also some 2"x3"x1/8" for the new subframe connectors vs the 2x2/2x3 combo I installed a while ago. I will probably also pick up a portaband soon to help cut all this. I've been keeping an eye out on Craigslist for a good metal vertical band saw as well, and not finding much. Not that I'd be picking up a 16' 4x4 and sticking it in the band saw, haha, but some of this other stuff I could. I think the portaband will work good for me though as i can take it to the work and it can also mount on a Swag off road stand and be a mini band saw.

Anyways, sorry for the rambling and lack of pics right now. Just wanted to share my excitement on getting the ball rolling a bit.

[95riosnake]

Once you have a drill press, you'll wonder how you ever did without one, especially if you drill a lot of metal or thick materials. If you search around online, you may be able to find a slow speed pulley conversion for it. Usually it's a 3rd stack of pulleys that mounts between the existing pulleys, and you run two belts. That might get you down to a more metal friendly RPM. Although 300 isn't too bad if you take it easy and keep things lubricated.

 

The pedal setup sounds pretty cool, and cheers to you for building a frame table. You know when you're building a frame table you're getting into a serious build. I still believe this car will be legendary in the SN95 mustang world as it progresses further.

 

Quick google search found this:

 

https://www.roguefab.com/drillpressreduction.php

 

They make kits to reduce speed from 2:1 all the way down to 16:1! That 16:1 kit looks intense!

 

2:1 kit is $129 and 4:1 kit is $149

 

Pretty sure after the move I'm gonna pick up one of these kits for my small Walker Turner bench top press

[Prokiller]

ya know that drill press is cool and all but my attention was distracted by the awesome bench grinder stand you got there.

[SublimeRT]

In the great words of led Zeppelin..........ramble on!!!

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

You know, I was actually wearing an old Zeppelin shirt I hadn't worn in a few years yesterday.  

 

 

Once you have a drill press, you'll wonder how you ever did without one, especially if you drill a lot of metal or thick materials. If you search around online, you may be able to find a slow speed pulley conversion for it. Usually it's a 3rd stack of pulleys that mounts between the existing pulleys, and you run two belts. That might get you down to a more metal friendly RPM. Although 300 isn't too bad if you take it easy and keep things lubricated.

 

The pedal setup sounds pretty cool, and cheers to you for building a frame table. You know when you're building a frame table you're getting into a serious build. I still believe this car will be legendary in the SN95 mustang world as it progresses further.

 

Quick google search found this:

 

https://www.roguefab.com/drillpressreduction.php

 

They make kits to reduce speed from 2:1 all the way down to 16:1! That 16:1 kit looks intense!

 

2:1 kit is $129 and 4:1 kit is $149

 

Pretty sure after the move I'm gonna pick up one of these kits for my small Walker Turner bench top press

 

That is super cool, thanks for the link and info.  I didn't know such things existed, but I had been thinking if I could change the pulley system up and slow it down some.  That 16:1 kit is pretty wild.  According to their calculator it will slow it down to 19-194 RPM!  I need to get familiar with drill speed settings, because I'm not sure I even need to go that slow.  I will add this to my growing Drill Press Supplies & Modifications list for sure though.

 

I drilled and countersunk a few 1/2" holes in 1/8" steel at 300 RPM with some cutting fluid and it didn't do bad.  I think going slower would help though.  How slow does that Walker Turner go?  I like those old machines.

 

You know messing with the drill press makes me think of all the things that could be done if it were a mill and not just a drill press.  I'll keep dreaming though.  That's getting ahead of myself.

 

 

ya know that drill press is cool and all but my attention was distracted by the awesome bench grinder stand you got there.

 

Thanks.  I had to do some work with the grinder last winter and the then current setup was the grinder held down by a ratchet strap on a steel bar stool about waist high.  I decided that wouldn't cut it and I was going to get hurt or screw up what I was working on.  The tube is actually the rear down bars from the Wolfe roll bar kit I bought, the ones that go from the main hoop over the rear seat and through the package tray.  I decided against using them for the car.  I put a 2" trailer hitch receiver on top so the grinder can be swapped out quickly.  I plan to make an attachment for a vise, a little tray/table, and also different post dollies and forming blocks for sheet metal work.  Like all my other stuff it is not finished yet though.  I priced a 4'x8' sheet of 1/8" steel and will pick one up after a bit and use that to fill in the space between the tubes and mount holders for all the different attachments.  The 1/8" will also be used to finish the welder cart and the shrinker/stretcher stand to the right of the drill, and then I'll finally paint everything.  Here's a better pic of it.

[95riosnake]

Oh yea, the 16:1 kit is waaaaay overkill lol... at the lowest setting you'd get about one rotation every 3 seconds... I think the 4:1 kit is probably the best for what you or I would need, they also note that it's their best seller so it seems we're not alone.

 

I like the repurposing of the roll bar tubes! Not to mention those are some super cool caster brackets!

[SublimeRT]

Thanks, Dan.  I spent entirely too much time on those caster mounts with a cut off wheel, hand drill, jigsaw, and dremel.  I remember when I made that stand I had also just finished thumbing through your garage projects thread.  I think that was also part of my push to make it cause I looked around the shop and thought I really need to make things nicer around here.  It's still not super nice looking but once I get things painted that will help a lot and also get a bit more organized.  After thumbing through your garage thread last night I was looking on CL for some nice steel cabinets/drawers, haha.  

[Prokiller]

Thanks, Dan.  I spent entirely too much time on those caster mounts with a cut off wheel, hand drill, jigsaw, and dremel.  I remember when I made that stand I had also just finished thumbing through your garage projects thread.  I think that was also part of my push to make it cause I looked around the shop and thought I really need to make things nicer around here.  It's still not super nice looking but once I get things painted that will help a lot and also get a bit more organized.  After thumbing through your garage thread last night I was looking on CL for some nice steel cabinets/drawers, haha.  

be careful, don't go to far down the OCD fabworks rabbit hole or you'll never finish the car.

[SublimeRT]

Haha, it's a slippery slope for sure.  You know I used to make the biggest freaking messes whenever I'd work on something, but not so much anymore, and it's getting worse as I get older.  

[RideTech_Ryan]

This is one awesome build.  That metal Fab is insane.  You sir have a fine skill set

[SublimeRT]

Thank you very much for the compliments. I feel like I still have sooo much to learn, so it really means a lot to hear that.

[Prokiller]

Haha, it's a slippery slope for sure.  You know I used to make the biggest freaking messes whenever I'd work on something, but not so much anymore, and it's getting worse as I get older.  

funny enough i've been doing the same thing.  my dad is horrible with putting tools back.  everytime we'd work on the car he'd be misplacing tools all over the garage because he would just set it down wherever he was at the moment.  then of course he'd get pissed because he couldn't find the wrench he just had in his hand.  drove me nuts to no end.  i've been the opposite since having my own garage.  even though i know i'm going to need that socket again in a few minutes after i get this other bolt out, it still goes back in the box.  takes an extra 2 seconds to put it back but then you know exactly where it is at all times.

[Psychorugby]

funny enough i've been doing the same thing.  my dad is horrible with putting tools back.  everytime we'd work on the car he'd be misplacing tools all over the garage because he would just set it down wherever he was at the moment.  then of course he'd get pissed because he couldn't find the wrench he just had in his hand.  drove me nuts to no end.  i've been the opposite since having my own garage.  even though i know i'm going to need that socket again in a few minutes after i get this other bolt out, it still goes back in the box.  takes an extra 2 seconds to put it back but then you know exactly where it is at all times.

 

Rich was getting on me for doing this when we pulled my motor.  "If you left the socket here, then you wouldn't waste time going to get it six times,"

 

"If I left the socket there, I'd inevitably lose it."

[Prokiller]

Rich was getting on me for doing this when we pulled my motor.  "If you left the socket here, then you wouldn't waste time going to get it six times,"

 

"If I left the socket there, I'd inevitably lose it."

i guess it depends on where your tools are kept.  mine are right next to the engine bay so it's literally just a arms reach away most times.  and its on wheels so i could move it if i wanted.

[Psychorugby]

i guess it depends on where your tools are kept.  mine are right next to the engine bay so it's literally just a arms reach away most times.  and its on wheels so i could move it if i wanted.

 

My workbench is about 15 feet from the car, so I can see his point.  The only flat surface near the car is my freezer... and that gets old having to clean off to get a pizza out or dinner.

[RedTwilight]

Sounds like you need to purchase or fab up a tool cart.  That way you can lay the tools in the cart that you're using.  Then when finished roll it to the tool box to put it all back in their proper place.

[Blackmage]

i have one of these. works excellent!

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Service-Utility-2-Shelf-9T6600BLA/dp/B000MK9WZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440703694&sr=8-1&keywords=rubbermaid+utility+cart

[SublimeRT]

funny enough i've been doing the same thing.  my dad is horrible with putting tools back.  everytime we'd work on the car he'd be misplacing tools all over the garage because he would just set it down wherever he was at the moment.  then of course he'd get pissed because he couldn't find the wrench he just had in his hand.  drove me nuts to no end.  i've been the opposite since having my own garage.  even though i know i'm going to need that socket again in a few minutes after i get this other bolt out, it still goes back in the box.  takes an extra 2 seconds to put it back but then you know exactly where it is at all times.

 

I was watching my Dad work on something a while ago and noticed he did the same thing.  It was driving me crazy, too.  I had to look away, haha.  He put everything back when he was done though so it's okay.  It made me think though, I guess that's why I used to do the same thing, because I grew up watching and helping him work on the cars.  

 

i have one of these. works excellent!

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Service-Utility-2-Shelf-9T6600BLA/dp/B000MK9WZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440703694&sr=8-1&keywords=rubbermaid+utility+cart

 

That does look pretty good.  I might have to get something like that someday.  Right now I have a Cornwell tool cart.  It's pretty much like all the offerings from MAC, Blue Point, Matco, Napa, Harbor Freight, etc.  I loaded it with so much crap though that it isn't very mobile anymore.  

[RideTech_Ryan]

So its been almost a month since the last update.............. Im jones'n man c'mon lol

[SublimeRT]

Haha, time for the monthly update, eh? I've got a few things I could post up. I'll try to do so later tonight.

[Lanter]

Haha, time for the monthly update, eh? I've got a few things I could post up. I'll try to do so later tonight.

 

Are the few things completely finished and painted wide body panels????   haha.  But seriously I can't wait to see what you have to show, this car will be legendary when it's done.  Seriously one of my favorite builds to follow!

[SublimeRT]

Ah, man, I wish that's what I had to post up. This is more chassis related.

[Det_Riot]

Ah, man, I wish that's what I had to post up. This is more chassis related.

Any big updates on the old mans challenger??

[SublimeRT]

Alrighty. First off, @Lanter, @RideTech_Ryan, and anyone else, thanks for the support and excitement. It really helps to keep me motivated.

The biggest thing I have to report is that construction of the chassis table is finally underway. After much debate about size, material, and just general design (one thing I quickly noticed while researching was that aside from the pre-made tables like the Dr. Jig or Unijig, no two are alike) I settled on a somewhat narrow table with wide crossmembers that I can add, remove, and re-position as I see fit. The biggest reasons for the narrow table are shop space and easy access. For example, with a 6ft wide table, I didn't want to be leaning over it constantly just to reach the suspension or to get close into the wheelwells to work or anything like that, and again, shop space....I don't want to walk around a table that big and inevitably be running into the corners all the time. Also it will be a lot easier to say get some wheels/tires mocked up into place with the car set at ride height with the narrow table.

So, final dimensions will be 44" wide with 6' wide crossmembers, and 16' long and from the floor to the top of the crossmembers is about 2' which will be a good work height for me. The reason for the long length is that aside from the Mustang, some long cars will be built on it. @Det_Riot, this brings me to the Charger. I finished up the metal work on the back half of the unibody a while ago which is a pretty big hurdle. Aside from that, I have been repairing some rust around the windshield frame and bottoms of the A-pillars where they meet up with the rockers. Wherever I've cut out metal around the windshield frame and all that I have been applying epoxy inside before welding the new pieces in. I've also epoxied a few other things like trunk hinges and torsion rods and various hardware. Reinstalled the trunk lid and been giving it some attention. It needs quite a bit of work. All the new patches I have been using the TIG on for the first time. I was nervous about using it on that thin metal, most of it is 20-22 gauge, but I practiced some and it has been going well. As a matter of fact, I doubt I'll ever use a MIG on this kind of work again if I have a say in it. Anyways, how the Charger relates to the length of the table is that it needs a new drivers side front frame rail and also a section of the torsion bar crossmember replaced. So it will get first dibs on the table so I can replace those pieces, and I'll also be welding in some through-floor subframe connectors and other chassis reinforcements.

Before getting started on the construction of the table I downloaded Sketchup to see if I could make a little 3D model, just to get a better idea of things and make some changes and comparisons. I'm glad I did and it will be a useful tool for future projects. I looked around at other things people have made with that program though and it is wild what people make. They somehow make photo-quality things, meanwhile my work looks like a kids coloring book, ha. Oh well, I'm learning and it's served its purpose for me.

The main base is 4x4x1/4" wall and the top crossmembers are 3x3x3/16". I picked up some adjustable legs from McMaster to level it out and I'll also add some removable casters to get it around. I've got most of the material cut and prepped and might get it tacked up this weekend. Here's the legs all cut, coped, and ready for final prep and welding.

Something else I've been working on is the pedal setup. I had started making sketches of parts on paper, but since I've got Sketchup I've been using it as well. This is as far as I've gotten. But if you poke your head up under the dash you'll see something that resembles what I've made and that's what the pedals mount to, which mounts to the firewall, and the brake booster/master cyl also integrate into it. My idea so far is to eliminate the factory clutch pedal setup which uses a shaft to cross over to the right side of the assembly which the clutch cable connects to. This will use a Wilwood hydraulic clutch master cylinder in line with the pedal, much like the brake pedal and master cylinder. Also the clutch and brake pedal will share a 1/2" shaft whereas the factory brake pedal pivots on a 5/16" (IIRC) bolt. The shaft has also been relocated 1" towards the driver to accommodate moving the drivers seat back. I am planning on manual brakes, and have MM's manual brake conversion kit. For the firewall side of things I'm planning a mounting plate much like the one supplied in the MM kit, but just wider so I can also mount the clutch master cylinder. This whole assembly should just bolt in to the stock location as well for the most part. I've moved the bottom left mounting hole of the brake master cylinder mounting plate, simply so they are all inline, and also a few holes will need to be drilled for the clutch master cylinder. Two for the extra wide mounting plate and one large one for the clutch pushrod to pass through. Might be kinda hard to really tell much from these pics, but I'll post more details as I get more done with it. I'm working on my McMaster parts list, haha, so hopefully I can start the real deal soon. This all started with me simply just wanting a clutch pedal that matched the one MM supplied in the manual brake kit, ha. Snowball effect.

Aside from that I've been gathering tools. I've got a water cooled 230 amp CK flex head TIG torch and working on getting the Bernard cooler cleaned up and operational. My little CK 130 gets pretty toasty when I weld up some 1/8" and thicker stuff. I picked up some nice Sola 3' and 4' levels and a cool little digital angle cube. Some other little odds and ends. And also got a Dewalt portaband. I gave up on finding a nice used vertical metal cutting band saw for the moment. This will serve me well for now. I was going to make a more detailed post about it when I finished it, but I'll post this for now. A lot of people get Milwaukee Deep Cuts with Swag Off-road stands, which is a nice setup for sure. But my big problem with the Milwaukee is the machine is almost directly behind the blade. With this Dewalt, it is offset about 2.5" IIRC. It also has a factory trigger lock, so no clamping the trigger or using an external switch or foot pedal. The throat depth is nearly as large as the Milwaukee's 5" as well. Plus I just like Dewalt tools. I needed a stand for it though. I thought about it for a bit and looked around to see what kind of scraps I had and saw this old broken air compressor sitting behind the shop. So I figured I could whip something up and it'd be kinda cool. I know it's large and kinda defeats the portability and space saving feature of the Swag tables, but I can always cut the bracket off the tank if I feel pressed for space. I really don't have any good work benches either to set something like that on everytime I need it. I tried to keep a kinda smooth and rounded theme with it. I'm not done with it though yet. I'm going to cut a large door in the front of the tank and install some shelves for storing things, make some more sturdy/stylish feet, and paint it. I can still unbolt the table and loosen the clamp plates that hold the machine sturdy and use it like a portaband too, in just a few minutes.

The stock wheels and foot aren't squared up with everything else because they're going to get cut off anyways, and theres a big fitting in the side of the tank, that I didn't want in the front.

This weld came out pretty good I think. They're not always this nice, but getting there and getting more consistent with it.

I cut these all separately, but pretty nice, consistent cut quality. I'm very happy to not have to use a cut off wheel for everything now. Really like the machine though. I even cut some of that 4x4 .250 wall with it. Slow, but did nice.

The shade is a bit off in the photo, but I think this is the color I've decided on to paint it and everything else. Two welder carts, shrinker/stretcher stand, bench grinder stand, and the chassis table. Gonna have a paint party. This is called Ford light gray and I can get a gallon at Tractor Supply for $26 or so. This is actually pretty close to the color I have in mind for the Cobras engine bay, though not quite there. I still need to decide on an accent color for the tools though. Probably bright red. Maybe a blue.

And lastly, I signed up for the RideTech/Ron Suttons workshop at the Good Guys show in Dallas next week. So hopefully I'll learn some good suspension and aero things that I can apply to the Cobra and future projects.

If you made it this far, thanks for checking things out.

[RedTwilight]

You've got more time modifying your tools for the project than most people have in their entire project itself!  

Can't wait to see actual progress on the Mustang when you get around to it.

[GTTRacing91PGT]

Great update!

 

 

Alrighty. First off, @Lanter, @RideTech_Ryan, and anyone else, thanks for the support and excitement. It really helps to keep me motivated.

 

I found this site initially through a google search which brought me Dan's build thread, and from there i found this thread, which led me to signing up as a member. Like everyone else I'm sure, your progress keeps us motivated on our own projects as well.

 

 

Port-a-band stand is fawkin awesome!!!!

 

Agreed. Awesome idea, love it!

[SublimeRT]

Holy swizzle sticks!!!!! That's a lot!!!!!

Port-a-band stand is fawkin awesome!!!! I like the layout of the table.

Keep it up, putting some of us to shame here!!!! lol

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

Haha, thanks man! I get carried away sometimes.

You've got more time modifying your tools for the project than most people have in their entire project itself!

Can't wait to see actual progress on the Mustang when you get around to it.

Haha, thanks, yeah I'm really just trying to get things in line so when I start with the Mustang I can work pretty steadily.

Great update!

I found this site initially through a google search which brought me Dan's build thread, and from there i found this thread, which led me to signing up as a member. Like everyone else I'm sure, your progress keeps us motivated on our own projects as well.

Agreed. Awesome idea, love it!

Thanks man! Yeah I've seen Dan's car pop up often when searching for SN95 related things. It's good for business, ha. I'm glad people can find some kind of motivation out of this though. I like to think that we all kind of feed off each other. I know since joining up here I have gotten motivation and good ideas, information, and help from others.