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We used to joke that people used fox body Mustangs as currency in Florida.  Now, I am certain they do in North Carolina.


"I've got three fox bodies, how much salami can I get for that?"



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5 hours ago, Number Tew said:

We used to joke that people used fox body Mustangs as currency in Florida.  Now, I am certain they do in North Carolina.


"I've got three fox bodies, how much salami can I get for that?"




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Sorry for being MIA.


I've been quite busy with working extra days at my 2nd job and helping the GF get her farmers market business going.  I hadn't had much time to work on the Mustang.


I did get the front brake rotors for the 5-lug swap.  So maybe I can start on that soon.

Baer 2 piece 13" rotors.





I had also been having a problem with the car stumbling/backfiring and then eventually shutting down.

So I decided to go ahead and do the 3G 130amp alternator install since I already had it.


I managed to get enough time to pull the old alternator and bracket off.  Then I clearanced the bracket for the 3g alternator, and shot it with some paint.





Installed and wired the alternator up as well as cleaned up some of the wiring from the solenoid to the headlights and alternator.






That still didn't take care of the problem with the stumble and dieing.  But it did mark off one of the items on the to do list.  And I don't have to worry about low voltage when the electric fan is running.


I was able to manage to pull some codes and it came back as a PIP code.  So ordered and installed a new distributor.


Since the current race and show season has been delayed, I decided to pull the upper intake and install the BBK fuel rails, Russell fuel lines, 24# Ford Racing injectors, and the Aeromotive fuel regulator.








But upon priming the system, there was a bad fuel leak between the rail and the regulator adaptor block.  I tried to fix the leak 3 separate times to no avail.  The design only has an O-ring sandwiched between the non-machined rail and the block with just 2 small screws to distribute the clamping pressure.  To me this is a terrible design and I was not going to trust it.



So I ordered a set of Trick Flow black anodized rails, lines, and AN fittings.








While the intake is off I decided to paint it and the valve covers.









This weekend I should be able to get the fuel lines clamped in place, then bolt the valve covers back on, install the 1/2" intake spacer, and finally bolt the intake back on. 
Then I plan to move to the exhaust to take care of a leak.

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Over this past weekend I was able to dedicate quite a bit more time on the coupe.

First up was to replace the PCV screen, grommet, and valve.  It was a good thing I did this as the screen was completely clogged.

Next I organized and secured the fuel lines with some separators and hose clamps.  This was then followed up by bolting the valve covers back on with new steel core gaskets and new black anodized 12pt bolts.  
Then finally a 1/2" intake spacer with new gaskets and the intake was bolted on and vacuum lines routed.





The intake plaque was painted before going back on also.  And I topped it off with a new oil fill cap.




After all this was done, my attention was turned to the exhaust.  In an attempt to take care of the exhaust leak once and for all, I pulled the entire exhaust including the longtube headers.  This was so much easier with the tubular K-member over the factory K.
I will clean these up and spray a couple coats of high temp silver paint before going back in with new gaskets and bolts.

While under the car, I'll go ahead to change the oil and inspect the suspension.  Then back to the topside for new plugs, ignition wires, and distributor cap, and installation of the Pro M mass air meter.

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1 hour ago, Evilcw311 said:

You really should get that extrude gone potted intake I got. Free up a little breathing room !!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You still have that thing?!? 

I thought it was gone long ago!  So I never gave it another thought.


What is the shipped price?

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Took care of the headers and mid pipe over the weekend.  I started by taking a wire wheel to knock the rust and dirt off.  At this time I also ground out the excess weld on the inside of the tubes at the header flange and cleaned any remaining gasket material from the flange.
Then I cleaned the dirt and dust off and sprayed them with a couple coats of VHT Silver Ceramic header paint.

Before and after.




All sprayed and looking much better!





And finally time to re-install the headers with new gaskets and ARP header bolts.  





Next up will be to change the oil, re-route the O2 sensor harness.  Then I'll turn my attention back to the top side for fresh plugs, ignition wires, and distributor cap.  Then I make sure everything is plugged, connected, tightened, and install the new Pro-M 80mm mass air meter.  All this so I can  start her up, set the fuel pressure, set the timing, and do a base idle reset.

Then I'll finish installing the rest of the exhaust including the new Spintech Pro Street 9000 dumped cat-back.

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Over the weekend I found a little time to get several small things checked off.  

First I did a little preparation by using some Black Oxide solution to blacken a few of the bolts that I'd be using.





Then onto the car where I cleaned and re-installed the IAC; installed the new ignition plugs, Performance Distributors 8mm LiveWires and new Distributor cap; changed the oil and a new oil filter; and re-installed the O2 sensors and got the O2 harness routed and out of the way.
All this and got to watch the Rocket Launch.  We were fortunate enough to see it streaking across the sky all the way up here in NC.



Also my dumped Spintech Pro Street 9000 cat-back came in.  The mufflers are half the size of the MAC's that I just pulled off.  So there is a little more weight savings.




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Finally got everything buttoned up and mostly dialed in.

Feels good to finally be able to drive it again!








Here's a little sound clip of the Spintech Pro Street 9000 exhaust.



Now a little fine adjustments and I should be ready for the track this coming weekend.

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This past weekend we had almost perfect weather for late November in the low to mid 70*'s and low humidity.  Not knowing if such a day would come again anytime soon, I took the opportunity to paint the brake calipers for the 5 lug Cobra disc swap.  
They were painted Ford Green Gem Metallic using 2K epoxy primer, 2K basecoat, and 2K Gloss Clear in spray cans.  This is the same color that I plan to repaint the '93 with.







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Great work on the coupe. I know you’ve had that MSD distributor in for a while, but if it starts giving you trouble like the old one did, stop by the Ford parts department and grab a new Ford pickup and install it into your old distributor (if you didn’t toss it). They’re one of those few OEM parts that are way better than the aftermarket. If you ditched the stock dizzy, put a new Ford pickup into the MSD unit instead. At my old shop we used to ditch the MSD pickups right out of the box and replace them with Ford units. All of the aftermarket (yes, even MSD with their beautiful billet housings) and rebuilt parts store units come with junk pickups in them, so those are all a crapshoot. Fix it right with the Ford pickup and forget about it for 150,000 miles.

Edited by streetpilot
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Finally got the 5-lug Cobra brake Conversion done!  It was a bit of a thrash to get it done last minute before the annual Easter Race at Roxboro Motorsports Park.  But it's mostly done.  All I have left is to install the parking brake cables and modify the handle.






While I was at it, I also installed new Strange 10way single adjustable shocks and struts, and got the Line Lock plumbed in.

Here it is with the RaceStar wheels at the track.


Line lock switch on the shifter handle


I also managed to get a new best time of 8.35 in the 1/8th mile at 80mph.


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