scottydsntknow Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Yeah well the $25 ebay vinyl... lol well it got me some practice with vinyl at least. Ripped it all off and have some 3M stuff in the mail. I did get the whole roof done in like an hour tho, just looked hazy and had a lot of light scratches in the vinyl that were real apparent in the light so off it came. The AM pre-cut stuff I had was 3M and it looked way better. FYI, if you are going to vinyl anything then ONLY do 3M. Backing the car in tomorrow and shutting this motor down forever. Also had another setback as the PI intake that was on the Marquis has the typical fucked up plastic under the metal crossover/stat housing so that's going to be another $215 I wasn't planning on. Oh well. Have a few things I can sell to offset it and I still have to get the freaking snow kit off and sell it and whatever chip is on the car plus hopefully parting out the rest of the old motor will bring some $$$. So yeah I've been kind of treading water for like... over a month but that kinda happens when you have knee surgery I guess. But the good news is I did 2 miles 3 times last week at a pretty solid jog and the knee held up on the leg press and doing squats so I'm about to hit this sucker hot and heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Welp... been a long time. Had a lot of other issues pop up, it got cold as hell, wife has been in and out of the doctor's office pretty much nonstop might be put on the military's exceptional family member program. Anyway... not a lot of time to work on the car its pretty much sat. Till I decided to do a complete left turn and go in a new direction. Found a screaming screaming good deal locally... Got 2 Mark VIII motors for $500. Both need rebuilt but that is fine. One is completely dressed in Cobra parts from pan to FRPP shorties to alternator and I got the Cobra intake/TB as well. Cobra intake cams etc... etc... Going B headed Cobra motor with internals good for 700-800hp and amazingly found someone with the right brackets for my Novi. I've researched what is involved in the swap and its actually a 95% drop in. Between selling the 4V parts I'm not keeping and the 2V motor I was going to use and the 2V PI parts off the blown motor these will be free and I should have the $$$ to get the heads gone through. Just getting a simple valve job/cleanup and getting the beehive springs checked. So instead of going $2500-$3300 for worked PI or TFS heads, $800 for the MHS prepped Eddy intake and $800 for cams/degree service I got parts that'll make similar power for free and 2 aluminum blocks to boot. #veryexcite Now I just have to force myself to make time to get this shit in gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 That's a score and a half! I guess you can look at the lack of progress as a blessing because it gave you time to find the 4v before you got too far along on the 2v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Nice score on the engines. Should be a pretty low buck build after you reconcile everything in the end! Would still love to see some pictures of the vinyl roof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 That is a steal and a half! Great score, the mkVIII Motors should eat that boost up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Well turns out both motors had Mark cams and the older Mark heads. Which is fine, I like having cores and I still got 2 Teksids, a full Cobra intake, 62mm Throttle body, OOP FRPP Shorties and all the other odds and ends that came with the motors for $500. Not at all upset at the price. I actually did wind up finding a set of 70k mile B heads and cams off a 97 Cobra for $400 shipped. Verified all part numbers. Snapped that up. The intake cams alone are worth $200. I'll keep the Mark heads as cores and sell off all the cams and small parts and maybe one of the Teksids to make some $$$ back. Still thinking I can be cost neutral once I sell all the spare parts and 2V stuff. Now I need to find some time this week to tear down at least one of these motors and get the 2V I bought as a replacement sold and out of the garage. Already have a potential buyer in Maryland but we'll see. And I'm definitely 4V pot committed now because I traded my 2V Novi 2000 brackets for 4V brackets. Apparently the brackets are damn near impossible to find so we both put $1500 insurance on them lol. I'm still amazed I found someone with the 4V stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Also mentioning I'm going with B heads gets half the forums I'm on going like "omg B heads are teh suck get C heads with the blue stripe!!1!1!". I have a big centri going on this thing, B heads will do just fine... I guess the good news with that is that B heads are every damn where and dirt cheap. $70 for a good set of cores lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 the only thing you would need to worry about is the valve covers if you want to keep the COPs, and the fuel system if you keep the b head intake. any questions on the 4v swap let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) Cams and new heads are here! Well, new old heads. They still need to be cleaned/valvejob but they are off a 97 Cobra with 70k miles. Cams are legit F6ZE on the intake which makes me happy in pants. Also everything is super clean. $299 plus shipping on the evilbays of all places. And yeah Blackmage I am going to get some COP 4V valve covers and COP covers and 4V COPs. I know the wiring gotchas. As far as the fuel, I'm going to have to modify the 96-98 rail for returnless or just get a 99-up 4V rail and cut and move the mounting tabs which is probably what I am going to do. The fuel rails are really the only thing that isn't just a bolt up affair and that modification is easy. Dunno why more ppl don't go with this combo. There are a metric shitton of B cores out there vs Cs and they flow out the ass. I mean I know WHY the C heads are better but for the money... Hope to get really started on this soon. I actually found a WAP block that is supposedly done, bored .020 over, decked, honed etc... for $250 locally. May have to look into this. Not worried about a WAP breaking at the power levels I will be at. Have also not heard or seen a legit WAP failure due to the block itself. And they are about 10lbs lighter than a Teksid. Edited April 12, 2016 by scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 If you didn't already know it have the machine shop, your builder, or relieve the hard edges on the inside of the block. Especially around the windows and crank foundation. This will help eliminate some of the areas for possible stress risers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Yeah I will for sure. Still kicking around this WAP block honestly. Found the guy who orignally had it done on SVTP and hopefully he gets back to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Machine shop basically said I would be retarded to get a used block but if I did they could check it for me but checking it and putting on the line hone machine etc... etc... plus the cost of the block and gas driving 4 hours round trip at 14mpg... Anyhooters, Fonse Performance in NJ is stupid good and highly recommended and will do a full deck/bore/line hone/cleaning/deburring etc... of the Teksid for $650 or so. And then throw in a free head and valve cleaning too. He says that at 70k miles the heads should be totally fine and will fluid check them to see if the valves hold. If they do, clean, new springs bolt on and go. Finalized combo is looking like: -Teksid with upgraded Cobra Engineering Dowel pins and ARP hardware -Cast Crank -Boss Rods -Manley Street Fighter pistons -Stock B heads with 95lb Brian Tooley Springs and Cobra Engineering tensioner on the passenger head -96-98 Cobra Cams with intake advanced 12 degrees -Stock intake -IMRC delete -Cooling mod -42lb Green Giants in 99-04 modified DOHC rails -Upgraded fuel pump (still need to see what Steeda used or just get a Termi dual pump hat) -Modified Primary chain metal tensioners with ratchets removed -FRPP Shorties -VRS X -Bassani Catback -New Stock 11" Flywheel -Exedy Mach 400 clutch -Stock low Mileage T45 (99-01 T45s had upgraded forks and carbon fiber rings) -3.73s -Tri Ax -Steeda done suspension (control arms, lowering springs, swaybars, strut tower etc...) -Subframes -Novi 2000 with CX Racing Intercooler setup -BBK 62mm TB -PAS Slot MAF And what is nice is I have almost all of this. Just need to buy the rods and pistons/rings and ARP stuff and gaskets. And the Cobra engineering stuff. I still have a lot of spare parts to sell too to fund as much as I can of it. Might put the second Teksid up for sale if I am short... Going to set it at about 450-475rwhp on a real conservative tune to start off with and then maybe bump it up a little but not too much more or the T45 input might snap... Also the Mach 400 won't hold much more than that, which was done on purpose to act as sort of a "fuse" for the stock trans. Will be upgrading the trans at some point to take 650-700 and then go with a dual disc clutch. Probably will throw a 3650 in there from Stan at Pro Force with a .62 overdrive and a 26 spline input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Well, talking to some ppl about fuel, probably going to be upgrading to 60s, find someone with a Termi upgrading the twin pumps to something else and snag that with a BAP. Seen a few very similar combos to what I am doing make near 500ft lbs and near 600hp at the wheels which is really all I want along with spinning up to 7k hopefully. 6 rib is going to be an issue I am thinking but that can be a bridge to cross when I get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 So enough ppl have called me a retard for me to switch to C heads... Found a pair locally with covers and cop covers and cams etc... for $100. Off a 99 Continental, same as a 99/01 Cobra. Not worried about unrevised heads with a Novi 2000. I've also been scoring hella good deals on stuff locally to fund my build. Going to double my money tomorrow on a Teksid block and a complete Mark VIII motor and I picked up this gem below for $350. Teksid, forged crank, 96-98 Cams, 96-98 manifold 24lb purple EV6 injectors etc... Got a line on a real clean Mach intake as well. Need to sell the 96-98 intake manifold I just picked up first. #veryexcite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 smoking deal! damn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted May 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) I honestly am starting to think I can make money flipping parts I find. Seems to be a ton of blown Mark VIII and 99-02 Continental motors around here and every now and then I come accross a 96-98 Cobra motor being let go for cheap like the one above. I've got 3 Teksids and a ready to go WAP in my garage right now and I'll be cost neutral since I've started after tomorrow. The rest is gravy. Oh speaking of said WAP... On the left is a .020 WAP, torque plate bored, line honed and ready to go. Got it for $300 with receipts. Going to be using it for my buildup. Block work alone would be $600 and then I can get $300 for a Teksid so buying this vs using one of my Teksids=$600 in the bank. Selling that new B Cobra intake hopefully soon and I'll pick up the Mach intake for the C heads. Edited May 6, 2016 by scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Actually decided to part those heads I just got. They would be good cores but they are just too rough. I'm going to make my $$$ back and a little extra on the COPs, valve covers, cop covers and cams tho. And if someone wants the cores and springs. What I will be going with unless I can score a 2005 Aviator for real cheap is what I found this week. 42K mile running Continental motor out of a 2000. Those heads will be getting a leak check with penetrating oil and if they pass then its clean them up, Brian Tooley springs, do the cooling mod while they are loose and then they'll be ready to go. I know I can't sell the FWD WAP blocks from the Contis for anything really but I do need to see what the scrap value is of a big hunk of aluminum like that... minus the sleeves of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 42k mile C heads via a running motor for $200 for the whole thing. Has COPs, valve covers, COP covers, the heads and 24lb injectors. Hopefully the cams in it are 99 Cobra spec and not 184 duration Lincoln cams. The 99 Conti heads I just got had the XR3E Cobra cams in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Also found a custom adapter from a user on the corral that mates a RWD Mustang trans to a FWD conti block. Verified this guy was making almost 600 to the wheels with a forged Conti block on a manual. Going to get at least one copy of it made and may just run this 42k mile runner as is and get the car the hell back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 yeah do that...don't be like the rest of us with broken cars that only sit in the garage for years. that's been my goal this year is to just get the damn thing driveable again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Dude these are nice scores! Where are you finding this stuff. There is NOTHING around me like this. Build this thing though and chop chop, I wanna know the numbers this thing makes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Finding it all on CL really. I just missed out on a couple really good deals but oh well, I'll find more. It helps that I am in NJ which is the most densely populated state. I made over $400 profit on that blown 96 Cobra engine and I still have the crank although the spun rod gouged up one of the journals a little. I'm going to take it to a shop next week and see if they think it can be turned and then decide to keep or sell for $200 as a fixable crank if its ok. In other news, adapter plate came in and is LEGIT. 1/4" thick so plenty of engagement on input shaft, will have to take a cutoff wheel and dremel to a few spots on the back of the block but that's no biggie. Definitely going to get some more of those plates water jetted and then countersink them myself at home. The prices of actual 99/01 Cobra motors is like $3-$4k for low mileage ones. I can get sub 50k mile 99 Continental engines for $400 all day. For someone with a blown up 96-01 Cobra this plate=save $3K+ for a replacement. Only other thing needed is to drill and tap 2 bosses on the pass side for the Mustang motor mounts which is cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Is that the 4V adapter for the Novi? You seem to know way more than I do about the 4.6 motors. What are they major differences in between the Lincs and Mercs vs what came in the Mustangs? Is it pretty much heads and intake? what are the hp differences? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) No, I traded my 2V Novi brackets straight up for 4V ones. Just mounted on a blown motor I was parting to make sure it fit right. That adapter in the above post is to mate the FWD Continental WAP block to a RWD trans, the bolt patterns are different. Which is why Continental motors are so cheap... People buy them sometimes for the 99/01 style heads if they can get them cheap enough but its not like the Mark VIII where the yards know its a Teksid Cobra longblock for all intents and purposes. As far as the 2V stuff... any PI Vic/Marquis/Towncar motor is identical to a Mustang except for the front cover and other small parts. Heads/cams/block/intake manifold are the same. When looking for a replacement stock motor for a 96-04 GT, my advice would be to ALWAYS get one of these Panther 2Vs over a Mustang motor especially a Marquis or Towncar as those will not have any potential for use in cop cars. Marquis and Towncars are textbook old ppl cars and will likely never have seen over 3K RPM in their entire lives. I can get them around here for $400-$600 with real low miles. Continental motors are $200-$400 with real low miles as the demand is nil and most ppl don't think to use them in a 4V Mustang swap because of the bolt pattern but its really not hard for any decent shop to fab something like the one I posted... When it boils down to it the Continental motor is a Cobra with a cast crank. Needs an adapter plate, Cobra intake and Cobra front cover and there you go. I just looked up what low mileage real Cobra motors are going for around me and its $3500 and up. I have $600 into this one lol. Edited June 4, 2016 by scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 So by front cover you mean timing cover? what are the differences in the 4V B heads and C head? I see what you're talking about with that bracket now. Didn't have a reference for size so i looked like it could have been the 4V bracket for the Novi. Sorry to hijack your thread. I just got my first 4V and I'm having to learn from scratch it feels like with this thing. One more thing I can't remember if you clarified but why the WAP block? isn't the Teksid better for a build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 People nutswing on the Teksid like nobody's business. Good for me because I can get $300+ for them. Fact of the matter is that people talk a lot of smack about the WAP being weak but I have yet to see any evidence of a failure where the WAP letting go was the issue. Also good for me because you can get WAPs cheap and they are really very strong and the lightest of all the aluminum blocks. I am going to use a WAP in a 700+hp build and I am not worried about the block. As far as B heads vs C heads. B heads have 2 intake ports while C heads have 1. There are 2 revisions of C heads with 99/01 being one style and 03-05 being the other with 05 being the best. Problem is good 03-05 (especially 05) can cost a lot. 99/01 heads are dirt ass cheap and the performance difference is marginal at best. I'm a huge fan of them. Anyway when it boils down to it, C heads are better than B heads at any RPM. Not to say B heads are bad at all, they can make huge power and you can get them for free. Id take them over paying $3000+ for 2V TFS heads and cams thats for damn sure. Lmk if you have any questions. Not hijacking at all. Tbth, a 4v 4.6l is not expensive and can make great power for little money if you know what you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Probably a stupid question but aren't two intake ports on the B better than 1 on the C? or is the C ported larger than the 2 on the B heads and that's why? Seems the 2 ports on the B heads would flow better. idk though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 14 hours ago, Spockbacca said: Probably a stupid question but aren't two intake ports on the B better than 1 on the C? or is the C ported larger than the 2 on the B heads and that's why? Seems the 2 ports on the B heads would flow better. idk though No it absolutely kills low end, that's why Ford had to put in IMRC plates for the 96-98 cars. Even when they are both open and being utilized one port comes in high and the other low and its not optimal, they make great power on boost but even the 99/01 C heads make better power at every RPM range and much better low end torque. Also the secondary port on the B heads has no injector spray going through it so it and the secondary intake valve get sooted up real easy and real fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Now see that shit makes sense. Got it! thanks @scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Yep. Also the C heads have a lot of options compared to the B heads biggest (IMO) being the ability to fit an intercooler under a PD blower like the Termi or KB or Whipple setups. Hell even the 2V can do this but not the B head 4V. There are 2 Kenne Bell sizes available for it... both are non intercooled and will not make a lot of power without a pretty good meth kit on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 IRS swapping it this week. Yanking the SRA tomorrow. I am giving: -34k mile SRA -Steeda upper and lower control arms -Steeda adjustable swaybar -GT brakes and rotors -Bassanni catback I am getting: -70k mile IRS -Freshly powdercoated -All poly bushings throughout -Cobra brakes and rotors -MAC catback Will be ripping the rest of the driveline out too, I'm almost ready to go in that dept. Have to pull the shifter off the trans, unbolt the PS pump and smog pump, unhook a few other small things and unbolt the mid pipe and hook up the load leveler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Traded my sra and catback straight up for an irs and catback. Came with poly subframe bushings. Also has a box of brand new uninstalled bushings to do the rest. New brakes and freshly painted too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Lucky dog. Wish I could someone to swap straight up. Cant wait to do my IRS swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Seriously, FB groups. I've tried legit for years to get a straight swap on forums and no shit one day on a FB group and bang. And then I wound up with a giant 3" MAC IRS exhaust I didn't really want so I put that up for trade and again with a few hours I got a hit for a DIY flowmaster with stainless flow tubes and 4" tips from a guy 30 minutes from me so I jumped on it. Not the prettiest thing but it'll work till I buy the Magnaflow off a co-worker who is about to swap catbacks. Or... I can just take the flowtubes and tips off this one, buy a set of Dynomax Ultras (my favorite muffler) and then have a shop mandrel bend up some new IRS pipes and weld it all together and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Sounds good. Glad you're going Magnaflow. I can't stand cars with flowmaster. EVERYONE seems to have them and they all sound the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted June 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) I haven't ran Flows since literally 2003. Might bring back some nostalgia for a little while. Its going on a catted X and shorty headers and with those tail pipes it shouldn't be too obnoxious. But yeah I'm going to go with that Magnaflow or if he wants too much money for it I'll build my own catback. The flowtubes on this thing are the Pypes ones and are not welded on. Set of Dynomax Ultras and find a good set of stainless tailpipes (or have a set made) and I'll have a winner. I ran Dynomax for 7 years on a 5.0 Cobra and everyone loved the way that thing sounded. As soon as my damn IRS springs get shipped out next Monday I'll get this sucker installed. In the meantime I need to go get a new canister of propane and get to work over the 4 day weekend coming up doing all the rest of the rubber bushings in this rearend. That ought to be fun lol. Can't argue with a free box of Prothane stuff to finish it off tho. Edited June 28, 2016 by scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 Awesome trade! What year IRS is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Its a 99 unfortunately for the axles but its got the knuckle recall done, all poly bushings are done except the control arms and a box of those came with it. Also the pinion flange is swapped to SRA. I'm honestly thinking as far as IRS catback to just sell the flowmaster one I just got and then when I'm basically done with everything else, try to find a used Steeda IRS catback or suck it up and buy one new for like $550 with discount... Just because its a Steeda car and the logo on the stainless tips just adds to the car. Another potential issue is it has 3.27s in it but I'm going to see how the car does with them. At 450hp even with a Centri I might want to leave them on a street car that'll blow the tires off pretty easy I'd think. Not going to be taking this car down the 1/4 much and it's getting setup for handling. In another great CL find tho, I scored an aluminum DS sans U joints for $50 locally. Need to finish selling off the rest of the shit I have in my shed and get the IRS in and then work on finishing this damn thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spockbacca Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 And I'm at a standstill again... life... other stuff blah... I'll get it finished. If it gets to the end of the summer without major progress I might say screw it and build that WAP after all. Cast crank, Boss rods, $600 pistons at 9.5:1, new factory hardware (not going over 500-600hp) and shoot for next spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
