RedTwilight Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Mini update: I finally finished the rod to hub mounts... Couldn't find a shop to take the job because of my tight tolerances, so, with help from a co-worker, I figured out how to make them on a small manual lathe. I made 2 sets and I'll have the complete kit finished in a few days. I swapped the aluminum rod ends for chromoly for little added strength. As soon as I verify fitment of the new rod ends I will put a price on these and start taking orders for anyone interested. They will ship unfinished, unless you'd like me to spec out anodizing or powder coating. At which point I'll adjust the piece accordingly.So much to do, so little time. I'll get some vanity shots of them installed after I receive the rest of the hardware.Obligatory picture: 20151113_165847.jpgSent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Can't wait to see finished pics! Definitely interested to see pricing on them! +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thanks guys! I'll do my best to get a price by the end of the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Update pictures. toe-links with the chromoly hiem joints. The castle nuts is temporary as I'm changing to a flanged top lock nut instead. Sorry for still not being able to give anyone a price... I'm doing everything I can to get quotes from people, but it feels like I'm pulling teeth some times. I don't want to make any more guesses about when I'll have something set in stone, so I'm leaving it open for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 Those looks sweet. When I finally get an IRS and build it I'll be giving you a call for a set!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 God Damn Adam, those things are literally linksexual. holy smokies! I want an IRS just to have those badboys peaking out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 I agree I think I might need a set on my car. I can sell my FTBR's to offset the purchase lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted December 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks guys! I'm making some spacers to cut down on the number of washers I used. It'll still have plenty of room for adjustment.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 (picture heavy) So, finally another update: The toe link kits are finished but I still need to write up some install instructions and take some nice pictures of everything. I also finished a couple prototypes of the caliper brackets. The first was out of wood to make sure I liked the fit of everything and make any adjustments. I apologize for the crap pictures, I'm planning on getting a better camera soon. After I test fit everything on the rear end I cut one from metal. Billet 6061 aluminum. I was really happy with how everything came out. Got the bracket mounted on the rear along with the new sway bar and end links. I'll have the code written to machine the other side pretty soon, and I should be able to get a finished set on the rear before the new year. I'm hoping to get the website finished by the middle of January. It's proving to be harder than I anticipated. Anyway, hope you like them as much as I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Those brackets are HAWT!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted December 23, 2015 Moderators Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Holy shit I want an IRS just for those brackets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 God damnit where were you a year ago when I had to design a whole rear brake kit for mine, lol. Looks sick, incredible work man. Is ARG gonna be your LLC's name? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Thanks guys! God damnit where were you a year ago when I had to design a whole rear brake kit for mine, lol. Looks sick, incredible work man. Is ARG gonna be your LLC's name?Yeah ARG Performance is the name of the LLC. It's all setup now, just working on end of year tax crap even though we haven't profited this year. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 Wow. Epic work going on in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 Soooo..... When are the tie rods gonna go on sale!? What calipers / rotor diameter are the brackets working with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sho Amo Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Any idea on the weight of that bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted December 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Soooo..... When are the tie rods gonna go on sale!? What calipers / rotor diameter are the brackets working with? Soon! I promise!It's a 12.2" rotor, wilwood dynalite 4-piston caliper, and wilwood MC4 mechanical caliper. Any idea on the weight of that bracket?I haven't thrown one on the scale yet, I'll let you know when I do. I'm not happy about the added unsprung weight, but I think the braking benefits and ability to keep the e-brake are good trade offs. I was able to shave a bit off by going with the two piece rotor as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 damn some sexy work man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Thats insane man! You have literally got me looking for a v6 track car now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted January 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Thats insane man! You have literally got me looking for a v6 track car now. Do it!!! Totally worth it. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Do it!!! Totally worth it. hahaIm already looking. Just about finished getting my Saleen back together so i will definitely need something else to curse at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 @CompOrangeSN95, an option to reduce weight would be to hollow out the large thick areas and leave ribs or trusses for strength. Similar to what was done on this control arm: Sheds a good bit of weight but will maintain the necessary rigidity. You could orient the trusses/ribs perpendicular to the stresses that will be put on the bracket. Only downside is it will add machine time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted January 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 @CompOrangeSN95, an option to reduce weight would be to hollow out the large thick areas and leave ribs or trusses for strength. Similar to what was done on this control arm:Sheds a good bit of weight but will maintain the necessary rigidity. You could orient the trusses/ribs perpendicular to the stresses that will be put on the bracket. Only downside is it will add machine time I had considered this, similar to what I did with the toe-links. Main reason I shied away from it is because I relocated the caliper to the front. Since a majority of the clamping is done there and the large bolts holding the bracket to the hub are on the rear, that top piece (with my logo in it) takes a substantial amount of radial load. Figured in this case, beefy is better. And, as you said, machine time haha.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 I had considered this, similar to what I did with the toe-links. Main reason I shied away from it is because I relocated the caliper to the front. Since a majority of the clamping is done there and the large bolts holding the bracket to the hub are on the rear, that top piece (with my logo in it) takes a substantial amount of radial load. Figured in this case, beefy is better. And, as you said, machine time haha.Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk It's all good, just a suggestion if you wanted to reduce the unsprung weight. But like you said, the 2 piece rotors drop a good bit of weight anyway, so the weight gain should be minimal if any at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infinite_one Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 looks amazing man! that custom cnc work is awesome. glad theres still people out there making parts for these. I can "figure something out" that isnt ghetto but as far as the outright fab work, bravo sir. look forward to the progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Speaking of progress????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmfateam Posted March 11, 2016 Report Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) I read most of your build so far, but did you have any binding issues/feelings in the KB control arms when rotating up and down? I am looking at these arms but have heard bushing eyelets are off on them causing bind. Everything in your set up is looking sweet! Edited March 11, 2016 by wmfateam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 On 3/9/2016 at 9:56 AM, RideTech_Ryan said: Speaking of progress????????? Progress is happening... I promise haha. I've had a handful of projects for ARG that have eaten up a majority of my time. This is how it currently sits... patiently waiting for me to put the IRS and fuel cell in. + On 3/10/2016 at 0:20 PM, wmfateam said: I read most of your build so far, but did you have any binding issues/feelings in the KB control arms when rotating up and down? I am looking at these arms but have heard bushing eyelets are off on them causing bind. Everything in your set up is looking sweet! I didn't have any issues with them (other than the bushings being installed backwards). From what I have found online the issues people were having, have been rectified with the new designs. The lower has slightly different geometry than KB's original tubular arms, and the uppers have thicker metal, and a single radius where it meets the hub. I've very happy with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 1 hour ago, CompOrangeSN95 said: Progress is happening... I promise haha. I've had a handful of projects for ARG that have eaten up a majority of my time. This is how it currently sits... patiently waiting for me to put the IRS and fuel cell in. + I didn't have any issues with them (other than the bushings being installed backwards). From what I have found online the issues people were having, have been rectified with the new designs. The lower has slightly different geometry than KB's original tubular arms, and the uppers have thicker metal, and a single radius where it meets the hub. I've very happy with them. I know what you mean about being busy. I have all of my parts for my Eaton M122 swap but havent had any free time between work and family to work on it. Ive looked at it a couple of times but that is about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Slow build is slow... but I finished designing the diffuser. I used a naca STOL aerofoil for the basic geometry. They have a maximum attack angle of about 17° so I inverted the shape, set the centerline at 15° and made the leading edge tangent to the belly pan. I also added the equivalent of a leading edge slat to help with laminar flow. The 2 flaps on either side are spring loaded and designed to drop down in case the rear suspension ever fully unloads causing the control arms to hit. 22 gallon fuel cell for scale. I think it looks pretty neat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 That looks sweet! Too bad that wouldn't fit a Saleen rear bumper. What about exhausts? Will the tailpipes clear or is the design for side exit / dumped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I'm planning on going with SVO skirts and side exhaust. If not the SVO skirts, I'm still doing side exhaust haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Thank God someone is finally building a diffuser that is actually a diffuser. The key is that flat front area that I assume you will have extending under the IRS. Blocking off that huge turbulent cavity under/around the IRS is key to making a diffuser actually do something. Otherwise it's just some cool looking fins. Are you planning to do a flat bottom on the car? That would be badass. These cars are terrible underneath in terms of aerodynamics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 45 minutes ago, 95riosnake said: Thank God someone is finally building a diffuser that is actually a diffuser. The key is that flat front area that I assume you will have extending under the IRS. Blocking off that huge turbulent cavity under/around the IRS is key to making a diffuser actually do something. Otherwise it's just some cool looking fins. Are you planning to do a flat bottom on the car? That would be badass. These cars are terrible underneath in terms of aerodynamics. I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice this. What always bothered me was seeing that a majority of the after market diffusers have a sharp corner at the transition from flat to curve/angle. As soon as air hits that corner, it detaches from the surface and defeats the purpose. PLUS the whole air dam effect you described. They all look really cool, and I have no problem with a mod that's strictly for looks but I think a lot of people that buy those actually believe they are gaining something from it. And yes, I do plan on doing a flat underbody, with some naca ducts for trans cooler/diff cooler/rear brake vents built in. I love me some aero haha. Actually, is there any way that you could take a picture of how low the svo skirts sit in relation to the bottom of the frame rail? I'd like to go that route and planned on using the bottom of the skirts to determine the level of my pan but I have no idea how low they sit, so I may be kidding myself lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 49 minutes ago, CompOrangeSN95 said: I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice this. What always bothered me was seeing that a majority of the after market diffusers have a sharp corner at the transition from flat to curve/angle. As soon as air hits that corner, it detaches from the surface and defeats the purpose. PLUS the whole air dam effect you described. They all look really cool, and I have no problem with a mod that's strictly for looks but I think a lot of people that buy those actually believe they are gaining something from it. And yes, I do plan on doing a flat underbody, with some naca ducts for trans cooler/diff cooler/rear brake vents built in. I love me some aero haha. Actually, is there any way that you could take a picture of how low the svo skirts sit in relation to the bottom of the frame rail? I'd like to go that route and planned on using the bottom of the skirts to determine the level of my pan but I have no idea how low they sit, so I may be kidding myself lol. I don't have the skirts on the car at the moment, maybe @tony or someone else with side exhaust can assist with a pic. I will say that the skirts are the lowest part of the car now that I built my own side exhaust tucked up nice and tight. Before, the mufflers were the lowest point. The inside edge of the skirts overlaps the pinch weld about 3" inboard and hangs down below it probably 2+". I think if you fab yourself an exhaust that tucks up with plenty of ground clearance, a flat bottom is very much possible. If you aren't scared off by the price of oval tubing and you run a bullet style muffler like a dynomax bullet, it would be really easy to get it tucked waaay up. I see absolutely no reason why you couldn't make a flat bottom work. Some strategic heat shielding and some exhaust wrap would solve any issues with heat, and you could add some rear facing vents to exhaust any built up heat. What material are you thinking you'll use for the flat bottom panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 @95riosnake Thanks man! That's the kind of spacing I was hoping for. Should be fairly easy to fab up some spacers off the subframe to make the whole thing nice and level. It'll give me plenty of room for exhaust and proper heat removal. I was considering adding "tunnels" to direct exhaust heat to the front of the diffuser, but I'm not sure how crazy I want to get with it yet. Definitely going to look into those mufflers as well. As far as materials, I would love to do carbon, but it's just to expensive to justify. I'm probably going with 12ga. (.104") aluminum sheet. It'll give me enough material to add counter sinks so I can use flat socket head cap screws to secure it (if not zeus clips). And aluminum sheet is a good middle ground of cost/weight/strength. I have a friend with a huge CNC router. It's mainly for wood, but we've cut aluminum on it before. I'm hoping I can go there on a saturday or sunday and use it to CNC all my mounting holes and naca duct pockets. It'll be a while before I get to cut any material though. I'm currently having shapeways print me a 1/5 scale model that I can use to flow test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 3 hours ago, RedTwilight said: That looks sweet! Too bad that wouldn't fit a Saleen rear bumper. What about exhausts? Will the tailpipes clear or is the design for side exit / dumped? +1 except for a Saleen bumper for an S197 with the center exit exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 damn, cant wait to see that diffuser all built and installed. looks tits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Any updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 43 minutes ago, 95riosnake said: Any updates? Nothing yet unfortunately. I've been spending most of my time working on customers cars/motorcycles. I did get the car moved, and the rear end should be in within the next month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CompOrangeSN95 Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Update: The drive train has arrived. '98 cobra, 105k miles, with some cosmetic damage. I'll be using the engine, trans, hydroboost, and abs module. The front brakes are going to my Dad and the rest will be up for grabs. My car is currently on the lift and waiting for me to pull the rear. PS: The Triumph Spitfire is being parted out as well. If you happen to know any enthusiasts give me a shout. It's a 1979 with an original hard top. Engine runs, and the trans shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
