Jump to content
MustangMagazine

2v ON3 Turbo Build

Recommended Posts

Starting this up for my 2v Turbo Build - Keep in mind 18 year old College student with little amount of money, but I will plan on making this as cheap as possible to have my car running/turboed before this year 2016' Mustang Week. 

 

Already after doing some searching - fitment issues is god awful for the (96-98) 2v's which I myself have a 96' 2v. 

 

So I went ahead and Purchased a AJE Tubular K-Member - $293 (Ebay)

 

Highly recommended was a Slot Style MAF - I went ahead and purchased a PMAS HPEX for - $200 (Ebay)

 

ON3's V-bands are garbage according too many people - I went ahead and Purchased three 2.5' V-bands and one 4' V-band from VMS Racing - $52 (Ebay)

 

Next purchase would have been header bolts but luckily my dad has worked on cars in the past and he has stage 8 bolts laying around I have access too which saved me - $60 

 

I purchased a used 2003 Oil style filter adapter - $60 (Ebay) 

 

Rumor has it the relocation kit given by ON3 is garbage so I picked up a Morso Remote Filter for - $80 

 

Thanks to @slow90coupe for his post that allowed me to get a Morso Remote Filter! - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23686

 

Ordered everything 11/21/15 - So no photos yet waiting upon arrival ! $700 with all shipping is not bad for the Stage 1 musts for this kit ! 

 

** Keep in mind I have not ordered the ON3 Kit getting the essential parts out of the way First **

 

post-904-0-67789000-1448119387_thumb.jpg 

 

Thanks to @Det_Riot for letting me steal these Hoosiers ! 

post-904-0-77152600-1448119780_thumb.jpg post-904-0-54991900-1448119888_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-904-0-87871100-1448120078_thumb.jpg  post-904-0-92190700-1448120201_thumb.jpg

 

Current Mods on the 52k Mile 2v Motor: BBK shorty Headers, BBK Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster 44 Series exhaust Catback 

 

Exterior Mods (not really Mods): 

Cobra bumper, Side Scoops, Eibach Lowering Springs, 2 1/2 Cervini Cowl, Saleen S281 Wing, American Muscle's Smoked Crystal clear Headlights, AM's Tinted taillights.

 

Can't wait to get this ball rolling! - Please drop a comment below if you think I am missing something from the first stage of ordering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me know when you need a hand working on her! I'm only a few minutes away!

 

Will do man ! Hoping everythings in by my winter break that way I can start bolting it all up and be ready to drop the 2k on the turbo kit ! and I more than likely could use that sn95 knowledge you got haha 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh yeah another turbo build!  I'll be following this build for sure.  Let me know if you run across any questions on the on3 kit.  I have one in my car, not much run time at all, but it runs.  What's your plans on the fuel system side of things?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always love a good turbo build!!!!!

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

Hopefully mine will fall under that category !

Ahhh yeah another turbo build!  I'll be following this build for sure.  Let me know if you run across any questions on the on3 kit.  I have one in my car, not much run time at all, but it runs.  What's your plans on the fuel system side of things?

Gotta love Turbos :D and that part im still looking around for the on3 to get the best out of it, what did you run or currently running?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully mine will fall under that category !

Gotta love Turbos :D and that part im still looking around for the on3 to get the best out of it, what did you run or currently running?

My fuel system right now it's a Glenn's gp1000 with aeromotive fuel rails fore FPR and 80 lb injectors. What are you planning to run, wastegate pressure or upping it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good too see a new build. Take you time and do it right, easy to cut corners when money isn't readily available. Looking forward to following this build.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My fuel system right now it's a Glenn's gp1000 with aeromotive fuel rails fore FPR and 80 lb injectors. What are you planning to run, wastegate pressure or upping it?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How is that setup working for you? - I was thinking magna fuel pump. 60 LB injectors, i think stocklines and rails are good to up 500 hp ish? if not im leaning towards the edelbrock rails - Keep in mind this will be my first boost experience other than my dad's 03' cobra so information like "upping it" kind of shaky too me, how do you mean by that?

Good too see a new build. Take you time and do it right, easy to cut corners when money isn't readily available. Looking forward to following this build.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha yes, yes it is. Thank you !

Sweet looking car . Nice I gotta new build to follow now

 

Thank you! Haha I appreciate it ! still going to take awhile to knock it all out !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh I was just curious if you were planning on just running wastegate spring pressure. Which I believe is 7psi. So running 7psi of boost or if you were going to up it with a boost controller or stiffer spring. Wasn't sure if your engine is stock or built.

As for the Glenn's stuff, it's all top notch quality. He gives you enough fuel line to run it a lot of different ways. Everything you need for the complete fuel system, except rails and injectors, are included and the instructions are really easy to follow. Couldn't say enough good things about it.

Are you planning on running on3 turbo wastegate bov?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh I was just curious if you were planning on just running wastegate spring pressure. Which I believe is 7psi. So running 7psi of boost or if you were going to up it with a boost controller or stiffer spring. Wasn't sure if your engine is stock or built.

As for the Glenn's stuff, it's all top notch quality. He gives you enough fuel line to run it a lot of different ways. Everything you need for the complete fuel system, except rails and injectors, are included and the instructions are really easy to follow. Couldn't say enough good things about it.

Are you planning on running on3 turbo wastegate bov?

Currently stock so only looking to put the car to about 350hp to start, and I plan on building the motor after I get it all running with the turbo. Then I eventually want to put her around 550-650hp and call it a day ! haha 

 

Ill have to look into Glenns stuff 

 

Yes I plan on running the on3 turbo wastegate BOV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't waste your time with 60lb injectors.  You'll very likely wind up having to upgrade in the future to meet your power goals.  I would go straight to 80's, which you can normally find for virtually the same if not the same price as a set of 60's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

Been a bit since I was building a Stang for power (2-3 years) but wouldn't running 80's be quite a bit difficult tuning wise at a 350 rwhp level? Also, 42's used to handle 500 rwhp... With 60's I wouldn't think at 600 rwhp that you'd be at max injector duty cycle. Am I wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

man lots of good looking "new" builds lately! im going to have my reading cut out for me this winter! looking forward to this one as well!

 

I agree with that minus I have a lot of work and typing to do ! xD

I wouldn't waste your time with 60lb injectors.  You'll very likely wind up having to upgrade in the future to meet your power goals.  I would go straight to 80's, which you can normally find for virtually the same if not the same price as a set of 60's.

 

Well 80's it is then, I've heard it from a few people now not to even waste my time and money on the 60's just go 80lb 

Been a bit since I was building a Stang for power (2-3 years) but wouldn't running 80's be quite a bit difficult tuning wise at a 350 rwhp level? Also, 42's used to handle 500 rwhp... With 60's I wouldn't think at 600 rwhp that you'd be at max injector duty cycle. Am I wrong?

 

Well I plan on having Lidio to tune my car hes great at the Mustang tuning life, A lot of the people I know running 2v turbos tell me just get the 80lb and get it over with especially once i get the turbo running efficiently I plan on having myself or a local engine building shop that is very reputable build my motor to withstand 600-700hp and obviously I will have to have the rear end built as well. Now I can not say you are wrong or right due to my lack of knowledge in the boost/turbo field. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

I agree with that minus I have a lot of work and typing to do ! xD

Well 80's it is then, I've heard it from a few people now not to even waste my time and money on the 60's just go 80lb

Well I plan on having Lidio to tune my car hes great at the Mustang tuning life, A lot of the people I know running 2v turbos tell me just get the 80lb and get it over with especially once i get the turbo running efficiently I plan on having myself or a local engine building shop that is very reputable build my motor to withstand 600-700hp and obviously I will have to have the rear end built as well. Now I can not say you are wrong or right due to my lack of knowledge in the boost/turbo field.

If you utilize a calculator such as this to get a ballpark

http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Injector-Size-Selection.html

At 700 crank horse it shows you would need 71 lb injectors at 80% duty cycle. If you're targeting 600 then 60's are PLENTY. That said, I'm no fan of buying parts twice but the delta between 350 and 700 is quite large. Bottom line I don't want a debate, I want to help. I suggest calling mr Iacobelli and asking him if he is comfortable tuning 80 lb'ers with 350 horse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you utilize a calculator such as this to get a ballpark http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Injector-Size-Selection.html

At 700 crank horse it shows you would need 71 lb injectors at 80% duty cycle. If you're targeting 600 then 60's are PLENTY. That said, I'm no fan of buying parts twice but the delta between 350 and 700 is quite large. Bottom line I don't want a debate, I want to help. I suggest calling mr Iacobelli and asking him if he is comfortable tuning 80 lb'ers with 350 horse.

That is also a great suggestion, I will text his daughter and have him ask for me shortly. Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not arguing, just sharing my experience.  When I built my car I talked with Bob Kurgan about this very topic and he assured me he could get it to run no issue on a mail order tune so I could break in the engine before installing the turbo.  And it did, it ran great on 80's making probably 280rwhp.  That said though, @fiveohwblow is certainly correct and I agree to always default to your tuner's preference.

 

Wasn't looking to muddy the water for you, I just know how mind numbingly simple it is to turn up the boost after you forge a motor and instantly have more power.  I'm not really a fan of running stuff on the ragged edge and 80's will give you that wiggle room to turn it up where 60's might not, especially if you think you ever might to move to a different fuel like E85 later on down the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

I'm not arguing, just sharing my experience. When I built my car I talked with Bob Kurgan about this very topic and he assured me he could get it to run no issue on a mail order tune so I could break in the engine before installing the turbo. And it did, it ran great on 80's making probably 280rwhp. That said though, @fiveohwblow is certainly correct and I agree to always default to your tuner's preference.

Wasn't looking to muddy the water for you, I just know how mind numbingly simple it is to turn up the boost after you forge a motor and instantly have more power. I'm not really a fan of running stuff on the ragged edge and 80's will give you that wiggle room to turn it up where 60's might not, especially if you think you ever might to move to a different fuel like E85 later on down the road.

Agreed!

I knew you weren't arguing, I've just done the forum thing too long to know how quickly this escalates and wanted to state my intentions quick like lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of course, we can only advise on your build, but myself having an on3 kit I have learned some stuff and will pass on this info to you to review and make a decision. Take it with a grain of salt.

1. On3 wastegates are crap. I believe you only have one wastegate so its a slightly cheaper option for you, but I'd push for you to co sider replacing it with either a precision pw39($230) or replacing the on3 diaphragm with a real TIAL diaphram. The diaphragm is the common fail point on on3 wastegates.

2. The boost lines, connections, and controller leave alot to be desired.

I personally ditched the lines and fittings for silicone 1/4" tubing and push to connect fittings. You CAN secure the hosing with zipties, but I had a friend lose a motor went the heat caused a ziptie to fail and boost blew the hose off and caused an overboost situation. I got the hose and 40 fittings of eBay for $35. For you it would be cheaper as you don't have half the crap a 4v kit has.

Also, I wouldn't even waste time putting the on3 boost controller on your car. It's complete crap. I would consider a quality manual controller (can be had for $65) or a nice EBC (I went to a boost leash for precision control and stages, ramp timing, blah blah racecar) but it is a costly option at $550 for just the controller.

3. The oil relocation lines are CRAP. earls prolite lines and four AN fittings can be had off eBay for $40, this is the route I took after my custom $300 is lines didn't offer enough flexibility to move around the downpipe. Included below is a photo of the setup I'm using.

4. Oil drain. I would splurge a little and also use earles lines for this also. I would also mock up your hotside before drilling and taping the pan. I did not mock mine up end ended up putting mine in a extremely tight place. I kinda screwed myself and will probably end up having to use a scavange pump or dropping my K member to switch to a new pan.

5. I see somebody already suggested a Glenn's kit. I back that decision 100%. Glenn's is actually a FORE kit. So its top notch, and even included a cobra tank, and fuel sender.

Of course all of this is just food for thought, and stuff I have learned from my experience with my on3 kit.

post-81-0-84394000-1449423449_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of course, we can only advise on your build, but myself having an on3 kit I have learned some stuff and will pass on this info to you to review and make a decision. Take it with a grain of salt.

1. On3 wastegates are crap. I believe you only have one wastegate so its a slightly cheaper option for you, but I'd push for you to co sider replacing it with either a precision pw39($230) or replacing the on3 diaphragm with a real TIAL diaphram. The diaphragm is the common fail point on on3 wastegates.

2. The boost lines, connections, and controller leave alot to be desired.

I personally ditched the lines and fittings for silicone 1/4" tubing and push to connect fittings. You CAN secure the hosing with zipties, but I had a friend lose a motor went the heat caused a ziptie to fail and boost blew the hose off and caused an overboost situation. I got the hose and 40 fittings of eBay for $35. For you it would be cheaper as you don't have half the crap a 4v kit has.

Also, I wouldn't even waste time putting the on3 boost controller on your car. It's complete crap. I would consider a quality manual controller (can be had for $65) or a nice EBC (I went to a boost leash for precision control and stages, ramp timing, blah blah racecar) but it is a costly option at $550 for just the controller.

3. The oil relocation lines are CRAP. earls prolite lines and four AN fittings can be had off eBay for $40, this is the route I took after my custom $300 is lines didn't offer enough flexibility to move around the downpipe. Included below is a photo of the setup I'm using.

4. Oil drain. I would splurge a little and also use earles lines for this also. I would also mock up your hotside before drilling and taping the pan. I did not mock mine up end ended up putting mine in a extremely tight place. I kinda screwed myself and will probably end up having to use a scavange pump or dropping my K member to switch to a new pan.

5. I see somebody already suggested a Glenn's kit. I back that decision 100%. Glenn's is actually a FORE kit. So its top notch, and even included a cobra tank, and fuel sender.

Of course all of this is just food for thought, and stuff I have learned from my experience with my on3 kit.

 

Thank you very Much for your input, For sure the feedback I need! Like posted before I have what I have ordered, just waiting now to purchase the Kit... But I am wondering if I can piece the tubing together from on3? and use all you have mentioned and get a better turbo than on3's turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


SN95 Source ©

The premier SN95 Community

×
×
  • Create New...