Tony Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I started a thread months ago kind of asking somewhat of the same question but not really lol. I seem to be the one and only person with this issue even though i had the same problem with my old gt. What i would like to know...is there any certain component available that will reduce the amount of twist in the rear end? Mine will twist to the point of my rear wheel on either side goes directly up into the fender. Even enough to cause a spring to completely fall out on the opposite side. With having wider tires i hope to be able to avoid this as i know it will destroy my tire very quickly. Anyone have any ideas what i could toss in the rear suspension to keep it from flexing or twisting so much? Thanks for any info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 twisting isn't really the right word to use but i think you're looking for torque arm and panhard bar solution. or go IRS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 twisting isn't really the right word to use but i think you're looking for torque arm and panhard bar solution. or go IRS... Or maybe even a Watts Link. IF it was a drag car then I would say go with an anti-roll bar. But those are no bueno on the street. But I think your best solution in this case would be IRS on air! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I just don't get how no one else has this issue. Just do a rear coilover and they can't unseat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I just don't get how no one else has this issue. Just do a rear coilover and they can't unseat Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk the spring coming out isn't really the problem so much now as i replaced the coils with eibach pro kit ones back when i had that issue. now i just don't want my sidewalls chewed up from the wheel being pushed up into the fender. wouldn't a panhard bar just keep it from shifting side-side? or am i wrong on that lol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 No you're right. the only way to stop what you're seeing is to run real stiff springs that won't allow body roll, or maybe a tighter rest sidewall.Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 No you're right. the only way to stop what you're seeing is to run real stiff springs that won't allow body roll, or maybe a tighter rest sidewall.Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk ok cool. that may do the trick. trying to avoid HAVING to bag the car. whats a tighter rest sidewall lol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Jesus fuck autocorrect troll. Tighter rear sway bar*Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Jesus fuck autocorrect troll. Tighter rear sway bar*Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalklmfao i thought that was a thing...google's like did you mean..did you mean...did you mean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 ok cool. that may do the trick. trying to avoid HAVING to bag the car. whats a tighter rest sidewall lol? why avoid the inevitable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I used to cut up my 335 dr sidewalls until I I switched to panhard bar and tq arm. An added bonus was I was able to lower the rear more because the rear axle is located much better. The panhard bar and tq arm is just better all around. The rears now only lightly rub on the inside when articulating into very steep driveways. No sidewall cutting. 335 Nitto DR on a 11" wide wheel. The inner fender was "coaxed" with a dead blow hammer as well to minimize rubbing when it was a stock 4 link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 why avoid the inevitable you're right man im going to have to do it and hope to make myself NOT drive slammed lol. I used to cut up my 335 dr sidewalls until I I switched to panhard bar and tq arm. An added bonus was I was able to lower the rear more because the rear axle is located much better. The panhard bar and tq arm is just better all around. The rears now only lightly rub on the inside when articulating into very steep driveways. No sidewall cutting. 335 Nitto DR on a 11" wide wheel. The inner fender was "coaxed" with a dead blow hammer as well to minimize rubbing when it was a stock 4 link. just not sure how a torque arm and panhard will keep me from articulating lol. i think my only real option is air ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copmagnet Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 http://www.fullytorquedracing.com/mustang/sn95-1994-1998/sn95-watts-link.htmlBam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 http://www.fullytorquedracing.com/mustang/sn95-1994-1998/sn95-watts-link.htmlBam. just another component to correct geometry but do nothing to avoid excessive articulation. appreciate the effort though hunter. other than going with a stiff spring and mounting some sort of massive bump stop somewhere on each side i see no other choice but go with an air suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copmagnet Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 How is it flexing that much without snapping the control arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 There are 3 ways you're going to stop your tire from hitting your fender lip without air ride. 1) Roll/pull quarters to clear wheel/tire2) Run a narrower wheel/tire or a more positive offset3) Bumpstops As far as limiting suspension droop (opposite side spring falling out) you could run a limiter strap like the long travel off road guys run. IMO the root issue here that is causing both issues is having the spring shorter than it was designed to be for its spring rate. Before the spring compresses enough to stop it from hitting the fender, it has hit the fender, whereas if it were longer, it might have compressed enough beforehand to slow the travel before hitting the fender. What kind of entrances/approach angles are you hitting that you're effectively causing one side of the rear suspension to completely unload and reach full droop? I did that one time and sliced the hoooooly shit out of my old 555R's on my silver Y2K's and never did it again. I couldn't go a bunch of places but preferred it to fucking up my shit. If you absolutely need to keep driving the car into that situation (I know it's irritating not being able to go some places... hence the core reason for my move to air ride), you're going to need to correct the problem rather than limiting the suspension travel. Short term easiest fix will be to weld a threaded sleeve to the inner frame rail above the axle tube and thread in something like these: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9132 And a stiffer rear sway bar should decrease suspension droop on the opposite side some because that is essentially exaggerated body roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 @95riosnake the worst entrance i deal with is my driveway/backyard where i keep my car. no gas station or anything is worse than that. i have to come in at an angle and that cause one side to push up into the wheel well. i appreciate the info fellas! i've made up my mind to just go forward with air ride. solves all my problems. i just wanted to spend that $$ elsewhere is all and just run coilovers. no worries though bags it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 This is the fear I had of getting bags is I am going to want this on all my cars from now on. Kind of like power windows only better..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferocious Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The swaggiest fix of all would be to stretch your tires (or at least get rid of the bulge). I noticed your running a 315 on a 10" wheel and the picture you posted of the setup looked like a sidewall disaster. A properly rolled pulled fender will also go a long way. My rear tires are in amazing condition for what they go through. My fender lip rests on the tire (not the sidewall though ) when the weight of the driver is present. I've never had any problem coming in at angles and cutting up the tires when the rear flexes. Unfortunately even reducing body flex in the rear will not completely solve your issue of cutting/rubbing the tire, at least not for how low you want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 you're right man im going to have to do it and hope to make myself NOT drive slammed lol. just not sure how a torque arm and panhard will keep me from articulating lol. i think my only real option is air ride. You will articulate but the axle will be centered and located correct. Resulting in less outside rub. You can also run much stiffer springs with a modified three link (panhard/tq arm). The reason you can't run super stiff with stock quadrabind is because of the bind induced by the crappy design. It will also result in snap over steer. You don't want to get rid of articulation, articulation is traction. You want the axle centered and no weird location issues (cause of quadralink) while articulating. Like I said, 18x11 with 335's and no cutting of the outside tire. Granted I ain't uber low but I cut something fierce before switching over. Now no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 have you ever done sub frame connectors tony? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 have you ever done sub frame connectors tony? Just curious. nope. @410sn95 good info i get what you mean. thanks for explaining it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The swaggiest fix of all would be to stretch your tires (or at least get rid of the bulge). I noticed YOU'RE running a 315 on a 10" wheel and the picture you posted of the setup looked like a sidewall disaster. Unfortunately even reducing body flex in the rear will not completely solve your issue of cutting/rubbing the tire, at least not for how low you want to be. no offense but looking at your pics with your yellowed spray painted tires smeared to the point of non legible goo is in my opinion a disaster. i assume that is from tire rub level 40k?? and i don't even know what you mean by body flex in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 i think you need some sort of adjustable spring that you could add air to and raise the car when needed??? maybe someone has heard of something like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 Leave it to Troy to come in and lighten the mood with some trolling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 i think you need some sort of adjustable spring that you could add air to and raise the car when needed??? maybe someone has heard of something like this googling it right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 i guess when i see cars like this i just assumed there was something i don't know that keeps them from destroying their tires and quarter panels. but i guess it will remain a mystery cause the very first time i'd try to pull in my driveway or any parking lot i'd destroy my tire and quarter panel asap lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 Pretty sure that rio red car hasn't actually started in 20 years. Those pics were taken after they pushed it out of the garage.......... This message courtesy of crapatalk! And I already told you how I kept from ruining my shit Tony, I just drove flat places only lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferocious Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 no offense but looking at your pics with your yellowed spray painted tires smeared to the point of non legible goo is in my opinion a disaster. i assume that is from tire rub level 40k?? and i don't even know what you mean by body flex in the rear. I meant your sidewall bulging like that is a disaster waiting to happen if your fender starts pressing into it. No need to bring my car into this nor get mad Yes, my tires rub on level 40k, but they are in near perfect condition, minus being at about 50% tread from the previous owner. I know what the issue you're facing is, as I also encounter it. Very rarely, but it happens. It sounds like you have made the decision to go bags though, so hopefully that will solve all your issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 what about those shocks that are threaded with the spring over top of the shock then you can adjust them i cant think of the name right now coil something ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 i think you need some sort of adjustable spring that you could add air to and raise the car when needed??? maybe someone has heard of something like this Pretty sure you mean this. I guarantee it will do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted December 17, 2015 Moderators Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 Dude that mom is hot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 what about those shocks that are threaded with the spring over top of the shock then you can adjust them i cant think of the name right now coil something ???? well they aren't called air springs in fact i don't think anything is called air springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 let me google it..... i will be right back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The way mine doesn't cut is because I've rolled my fenders real right and beat the snot out of my inner fenders. They rub but don't cutSent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The way mine doesn't cut is because I've rolled my fenders real right and beat the snot out of my inner fenders. They rub but don't cutSent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk yours don't seem to poke out really. kinda sit nice and flush from what i remember. but yea...i've rolled my fender lips a long time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 try rolling yours The way mine doesn't cut is because I've rolled my fenders real right and beat the snot out of my inner fenders. They rub but don't cutSent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk real right and see if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 try rolling yours real right and see if that helps If you roll 'em real left you're fucked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 If you roll 'em real left you're fucked.This is the truth!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 well they aren't called air springs in fact i don't think anything is called air springs 2003 audi allroad air springs there is such a thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
