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Help with completion of Build List: Headers, Distributor, Roller Rockers, ect

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Ok here it is guys. My list is about complete and I think in a few more weeks at the most I should be ready to start ordering some stuff.

1. As for LT's I've been reading Jet coated is the way to go. I called a shop in NC and had a good conversation with a guy and he advised me that if I wanted to do jet coating that he would advise to get the car running and dynoed first then take headers off and send in. He explained how during the dyno it can mess up the coating because of the temps during dyno it will reach and the constant temps or something to that effect. It is $255 for the pair at that shop. I definitely don't want to go that route because once the headers are on, I surely don't want to take them off  I'm of the mindset that when it gets running i want to enjoy the car so if there's another alternative that will do just as good as JC then I will probably just go that route. Some of you will say well why mention if i don't plan on doing it is because some of you may come here and offer another analysis to which it can be done different that I might consider
Other than that I think ceramic, though as jozsef said earlier he hadn't heard about ceramic for awhile, I think if they are still doing ceramic then i might lean toward that. If they aren't doing ceramic anymore, what's the other options? Is BBK decent?

2. As for looking at some images of the end of the header, it appears that I've seen some that doesn't have a flange that would bolt up. I had that situation with my Basani X pipe connecting to the exhaust and I believe it just mated together. I had to get some exhaust sealant applied on occasions years and yrs ago, more than once and last time just got the dang thing welded up where they meet. Now I definitely won't weld the new setup and wondering if there's anything to buy to offer a good seal. I'm sure the exhaust shop should know but just in case, if there's a piece i need to get to take there I wana know before i get to that point.

3. I will get another Basani X as the one I have are for shorty headers. I'm sure the one I have is stainless as I think it was $400 back in 2002. Looking at some online last night at Autoanything, there was one for around $263 on sale and he said i could get it in aluminized steel or stainless.

4. Any particular type of header bolts? Give me a few options. I have the regular hex head header bolts on the 302.

5. What about a clutch? I want not too hard of pedal and as soft as I can get and it be effective for 4-500 hp/ tq then I guess i should be good. I've ran king cobra's on the 302.

6. Fuel rail brands options , adj fp regulator options? I have a billet adj regulator on the 302 that I could use but it's maybe 12 yrs old. Probably best to get a new one huh?

7. For AFR 205's any particular type of 1.6 rockers? I have the blue FR 1.6 but they are about 11 yrs old if age plays a part with those.

8. Harmonic balancer- I know i need a 28 oz. Any particular brand?

9. Lastly , Oil pan. One that will fit and fit with no fitment or clearance issues of anything hitting. I will keep the stock K member and probably go with poly engine mounts. If I go poly engine mounts then poly trans mount too right?

10. Distributor- i know i need a 351 specific right. Heard bad things about MSD. Give me a few to consider and what about store brand?

 

i think that is about it

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1.  just go with ceramic.  longtubes are not fun at all installing so i would not want to do it twice.  my bbk longtubes have been holding up great other than a little "ground clearancing"

2. you can't always go off of internet pictures especially with exhaust.  pretty much ever header i know of is ball flanged style

3. stainless will last longer but more expensive.

4. i've used stage 8 locking bolts in the past but have since changed over to just regular arp bolts.  was too much a PITA to put the locking washers and such on.

5. there's a million options out there nowadays.  i've had good success with my mcloed.  i don't think they even make the king cobra anymore, but even so, it's not designed for 400-500hp.  SPEC is hit or miss with people.  some have had great success, others hated them.  just don't get a puck design clutch whatever you do.

6.  unless it's bad and not holding pressure, just keep using it.  aeromotive is always good, but pricey.  really the stock rails will be perfectly fine with 500hp, just need larger injectors.

7. age not so much as mileage persay.  have they been run hard the whole 11 years or just a weekend toy, couple thousand miles.  if so i would keep them.  

8. meh, can't say any i've ever heard of was better than another.

9. for the most part you can't go wrong with canton or moroso.  for the mounts, the old school thinking was to run poly engine with rubber trans to avoid vibrations, but really it's minimal in my opinion so i would just do poly everywhere and call it done.

10. i've heard mixed reviews with MSD too but i personally haven't had any problems with mine in over 8 years now.

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Are ya in North Cackilacky too? Jet Hot is actually about 40 minutes from my house.

Sorry just seeing this reply. I didn't get an email notification  :angry:  :angry:

 

No actually SC. I googled jet coating places and called the first one I believe :)

 

I will probably just go with ceramics tho

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1.  just go with ceramic.  longtubes are not fun at all installing so i would not want to do it twice.  my bbk longtubes have been holding up great other than a little "ground clearancing"

2. you can't always go off of internet pictures especially with exhaust.  pretty much ever header i know of is ball flanged style

3. stainless will last longer but more expensive.

4. i've used stage 8 locking bolts in the past but have since changed over to just regular arp bolts.  was too much a PITA to put the locking washers and such on.

5. there's a million options out there nowadays.  i've had good success with my mcloed.  i don't think they even make the king cobra anymore, but even so, it's not designed for 400-500hp.  SPEC is hit or miss with people.  some have had great success, others hated them.  just don't get a puck design clutch whatever you do.

6.  unless it's bad and not holding pressure, just keep using it.  aeromotive is always good, but pricey.  really the stock rails will be perfectly fine with 500hp, just need larger injectors.

7. age not so much as mileage persay.  have they been run hard the whole 11 years or just a weekend toy, couple thousand miles.  if so i would keep them.  

8. meh, can't say any i've ever heard of was better than another.

9. for the most part you can't go wrong with canton or moroso.  for the mounts, the old school thinking was to run poly engine with rubber trans to avoid vibrations, but really it's minimal in my opinion so i would just do poly everywhere and call it done.

10. i've heard mixed reviews with MSD too but i personally haven't had any problems with mine in over 8 years now.

 

just seeing your reply as well. Didn't get a notification ............SMH

 

Doesn't neccesarily have to be ARP for the header bolts does it? Do they come with bolts?

 

Someone said somewhere else to get a Romac balancer as all others require a spacer. Dang I think looking the other day the doggone Romac was 300 plus bucks IIRC  :ph34r:  :ph34r:

 

1.  just go with ceramic.  longtubes are not fun at all installing so i would not want to do it twice.  my bbk longtubes have been holding up great other than a little "ground clearancing"

2. you can't always go off of internet pictures especially with exhaust.  pretty much ever header i know of is ball flanged style

3. stainless will last longer but more expensive.

4. i've used stage 8 locking bolts in the past but have since changed over to just regular arp bolts.  was too much a PITA to put the locking washers and such on.

5. there's a million options out there nowadays.  i've had good success with my mcloed.  i don't think they even make the king cobra anymore, but even so, it's not designed for 400-500hp.  SPEC is hit or miss with people.  some have had great success, others hated them.  just don't get a puck design clutch whatever you do.

6.  unless it's bad and not holding pressure, just keep using it.  aeromotive is always good, but pricey.  really the stock rails will be perfectly fine with 500hp, just need larger injectors.

7. age not so much as mileage persay.  have they been run hard the whole 11 years or just a weekend toy, couple thousand miles.  if so i would keep them.  

8. meh, can't say any i've ever heard of was better than another.

9. for the most part you can't go wrong with canton or moroso.  for the mounts, the old school thinking was to run poly engine with rubber trans to avoid vibrations, but really it's minimal in my opinion so i would just do poly everywhere and call it done.

10. i've heard mixed reviews with MSD too but i personally haven't had any problems with mine in over 8 years now.

just seeing your reply as well. Didn't get a notification ............SMH

Doesn't neccesarily have to be ARP for the header bolts does it? Do they come with bolts?

Someone said somewhere else to get a Romac balancer as all others require a spacer. Dang I think looking the other day the doggone Romac was 300 plus bucks IIRC  :ph34r:  :ph34r:

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on my build last  year when I started to concentrate on engine I looked into ceramic coating my upper/lower to help the keep superchargers heat output down.  I also went with JBA headers and took off my bbk headers and could easily see a difference.  The welding was much better on the JBA with no buggers inisde and the flange was 3/8" think.  

 

Now for hte ceramic coating I looked around at a couple and had it down between nitroplate and jetthot.  After reading what I had about some quality controls on jetthot sometimes not lasting a whole season I started with nitroplate.  I only had a couple of questions but he was so nice and imformative That when I called here with the promise to send my parts down for him to work his magic.  

thb_2937781443239364-c449fbc10b.jpg

Now unfortunately I got a notice from nitroplate saying that they had grown big enough that the peicemeal parts they started their biz on now is just not as needed with a full range of products to make things with.  I have not checked back to see if paybe they started it back up  and if they did I would recoment them myself using a mix of 

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on my build last  year when I started to concentrate on engine I looked into ceramic coating my upper/lower to help the keep superchargers heat output down.  I also went with JBA headers and took off my bbk headers and could easily see a difference.  The welding was much better on the JBA with no buggers inisde and the flange was 3/8" think.  

 

Now for hte ceramic coating I looked around at a couple and had it down between nitroplate and jetthot.  After reading what I had about some quality controls on jetthot sometimes not lasting a whole season I started with nitroplate.  I only had a couple of questions but he was so nice and imformative That when I called here with the promise to send my parts down for him to work his magic.  

thb_2937781443239364-c449fbc10b.jpg

Now unfortunately I got a notice from nitroplate saying that they had grown big enough that the peicemeal parts they started their biz on now is just not as needed with a full range of products to make things with.  I have not checked back to see if paybe they started it back up  and if they did I would recoment them myself using a mix of 

 

What size headers did you go with and how much were they? 

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What size headers did you go with and how much were they? 

LOVE EM!  JBA 170cc with a nice thck 3/8" flangs.  I used studs to mount them and thankfully they were long enough to reach.  The header flange is 3.8"  and listed as 1 5/8"

 

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LOVE EM!  JBA 170cc with a nice thck 3/8" flangs.  I used studs to mount them and thankfully they were long enough to reach.  The header flange is 3.8"  and listed as 1 5/8"

 

I don't think I've seen where many have run them but will do some digging :)

I also need 1 3/4 so will see if they are available and pricing

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Ummm... I take it your installing or have installed a tall deck motor?  I ask cause you said you need a 351 specific distributor.

 

When it comes to of the shelf headers for a tall deck in a sn95 chassis your options are very limited.  What trans are you running?

 

Just get a fomco distributor.

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Ummm... I take it your installing or have installed a tall deck motor?  I ask cause you said you need a 351 specific distributor.

 

When it comes to of the shelf headers for a tall deck in a sn95 chassis your options are very limited.  What trans are you running?

 

Just get a fomco distributor.

Yes going to build get a Dart 351 and build a 400. 

 

yes i've seen header choices are limited and the $549 for the BBk ceramics will more than likely be the way I go.

 

Going to either get a beefed up Astro A5 or the Tko600. More than likely the A5 because of the shift feel

 

The duralast Distributors are about $90 bucks from autozone. I can see getting something definitely with a lifetime warranty

 

I don't know why I'm not getting email notifications of new replies  :ph34r:

 

who sells the fomco?

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I don't think I've seen where many have run them but will do some digging :)

I also need 1 3/4 so will see if they are available and pricing

 

 

I really wish I had a pic of the bbk in one hand and the JBA in the other.  It was one of those few times in your life where you know the BBK is still a good/great product by all means in one hand and in the other was the jba and you could tell the welds were cleaner/tighter.  JBA also took the time to press the pipes into a square shape when they went into the flange.  I could not help to think that  it probably held it all hold together better as well as gave it more room for the exhaust to pass

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Yes going to build get a Dart 351 and build a 400. 

 

yes i've seen header choices are limited and the $549 for the BBk ceramics will more than likely be the way I go.

 

Going to either get a beefed up Astro A5 or the Tko600. More than likely the A5 because of the shift feel

 

The duralast Distributors are about $90 bucks from autozone. I can see getting something definitely with a lifetime warranty

 

I don't know why I'm not getting email notifications of new replies  :ph34r:

 

who sells the fomco?

 

Fomoco = Ford Motor Company.  Get a OEM distributor from a junkyard.

 

If you go with an Astro you should consider having it built with a fox input shaft and source a fox bell housing. It will move the shift fork location and then you can run the BBK fox 351 swap long tube headers.  It will move the shifter forward but you should be moving the engine/trans back as much as possible. So shifter location will back to center.

 

The BBK swap long tubes WILL fit if you do this. I had them mocked up on my tall deck with g-force t-5 setup at one point.

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I really wish I had a pic of the bbk in one hand and the JBA in the other.  It was one of those few times in your life where you know the BBK is still a good/great product by all means in one hand and in the other was the jba and you could tell the welds were cleaner/tighter.  JBA also took the time to press the pipes into a square shape when they went into the flange.  I could not help to think that  it probably held it all hold together better as well as gave it more room for the exhaust to pass

How long ago did you buy those and how much were they at the time. I think on googling yesterday ......Well here is one I just looked up ;

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/jba-long-tube-headers-1-3-4-stainless-steel-ceramic-coated-for-use-with-borgeson-power-steering-conversion-kit-260-289-302-351W-1965-1973/p/HDJ19/

 

i put in jba 1 3/4 ceramic long tubes for 351. Yesterday i noticed that seems like all had the earlier years listed, up to around 73. When doing a 351 for car specific I guess you can't specify really the years because for instance 94-95 all they made in the 351 was the Cobra R. So basically i guess i need to call JBA's tech for them to tell me which headers would fit that they offer. 

 

Also that price of the one listed is $250 more than the BBK's...... -_-

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Fomoco = Ford Motor Company.  Get a OEM distributor from a junkyard.

 

If you go with an Astro you should consider having it built with a fox input shaft and source a fox bell housing. It will move the shift fork location and then you can run the BBK fox 351 swap long tube headers.  It will move the shifter forward but you should be moving the engine/trans back as much as possible. So shifter location will back to center.

 

The BBK swap long tubes WILL fit if you do this. I had them mocked up on my tall deck with g-force t-5 setup at one point.

I'd rather get a new dizzy. Something like that that has sat at a JY you never know how long it was there and electronically how long it may hold up, as for the pick-up coil/stator. For my older 92 chevy s 10 yes I'd buy something like that from a JY if the price was right. 

 

Are you saying that's the only way the BBk's will fit? Talked to several other guys over past 3 wks and none advised me of this. I want this thing to be as painless as possible as I will have to get guys over here to help me when time to put the motor and all in. I want the best possible direct fit combination. Some of the guys I will get won't specifically be mustang guys who have done special stuff to their cars so I can see not getting it fitted correctly and having to call this one guy I know of who build racecars but I have never delt with him. I'm sure when he gets a minute at that time he will come assist.

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I'd rather get a new dizzy. Something like that that has sat at a JY you never know how long it was there and electronically how long it may hold up, as for the pick-up coil/stator. For my older 92 chevy s 10 yes I'd buy something like that from a JY if the price was right. 

 

Are you saying that's the only way the BBk's will fit? Talked to several other guys over past 3 wks and none advised me of this. I want this thing to be as painless as possible as I will have to get guys over here to help me when time to put the motor and all in. I want the best possible direct fit combination. Some of the guys I will get won't specifically be mustang guys who have done special stuff to their cars so I can see not getting it fitted correctly and having to call this one guy I know of who build racecars but I have never delt with him. I'm sure when he gets a minute at that time he will come assist.

 

I have never had any luck with aftermarket distributors.  Might.Spark.Daily was the nickname for those shiny/pretty distributors at my old shop. Your mileage may vary, though.

 

The issue with the BBK's is the driver side collector will hit the shift fork.  The fox bell moves the shift fork up.  An added bonus is you can run a oil pan with kick outs and not have the clutch cable and the oil pan trying to occupy the same place.

 

Been there, done that.  In the end I sold the BBK's cause I had already had my g-force built with a sn95 input shaft. I just wanted to drive the damn car and was tired of messing around. I bought a set of Anderson/Bassani big tube shorties and called it a day.

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I have never had any luck with aftermarket distributors.  Might.Spark.Daily was the nickname for those shiny/pretty distributors at my old shop. Your mileage may vary, though.

 

The issue with the BBK's is the driver side collector will hit the shift fork.  The fox bell moves the shift fork up.  An added bonus is you can run a oil pan with kick outs and not have the clutch cable and the oil pan trying to occupy the same place.

 

Been there, done that.  In the end I sold the BBK's cause I had already had my g-force built with a sn95 input shaft. I just wanted to drive the damn car and was tired of messing around. I bought a set of Anderson/Bassani big tube shorties and called it a day.

I will call the parts stores and see if they sell the OEM ones in compare will probably just go ahead and get an OEM one and if not will call the dealership and check their pricing. I agree I am are better for a lot of things

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