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Prokiller

Black Pearl Evolution Redux

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2 hours ago, busta said:

I've been thinking of ordering one myself. I'll await your feedback if ya do!

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pd-dyna-module-9495v8.html

i asked my old supervisor that still works there if he had failure rates on them but haven't heard back.  i think he forgot.

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On 10/6/2016 at 11:29 AM, busta said:

I've been thinking of ordering one myself. I'll await your feedback if ya do!

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pd-dyna-module-9495v8.html

 

I've had that one for years, yes even before the car sat for the past few years lol, and I've had no complaints.

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no solid update here, but i did drive it saturday and i ordered some torque box reinforcements for it.  convinced my dad to finally to weld the tabs for the torque arm with on jackstands rather than waiting for a lift.  doing it on the lift concerns me as it must be done in one day.  drive it there, and have to drive it home at the end.  so going to start setting that up hopefully this weekend.

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washed it up and waxed it last night.  was going to take it to work today...but went to check the oil and the dipstick snapped off.  so yeah....have to drain the pan tonight and hope it's all in one piece.

 

but fancy waxing pictures:

33904909053_4b03a8f48c_k.jpg

33872143544_42d512d676_k.jpg

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played around with a bunch of magnets and dental tools to fish around in the oil pan for the tip of the dipstick.  i couldn't find it.  was going to try and use my dad's camera scope but it won't fit in any of the drain holes or dipstick tube.  so....after many a curse word, i said screw it.  put a new filter and oil in it and going to drive it till one of three things happen.  1) it works it way to the magnetic oil plug and comes out on an oil change.  2) it blows gets lodge in the crank and blows it up. 3) when i swap a coyote in it and i find it during part out.  either way...screw it.

 

took it to an annual show on sunday and we didn't stay long.  went to leave and a couple people were there when i started it up.  by the time i tried to pull out, there must have been over 30 people crowding around.  never actually had that happen before.  couple guys were actually saying to stay because i probably won.  

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50 minutes ago, Yeahloh95 said:

i vote more magnets on oil pan

is it possible to magnetize an engine block?  i probably have enough harddrive magnets to do it...

34166924094_23ebdc4ebf_k.jpg

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got it to carlisle this weekend and got another 2nd place placard.  always a bridesmaid...never a bride.  i blame it on @Yeahloh95 for not detailing my ABS block

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On 5/31/2017 at 7:43 AM, Prokiller said:
is it possible to magnetize an engine block?  i probably have enough harddrive magnets to do it...

34166924094_23ebdc4ebf_k.jpg

 

you disassemble them to destroy the platters?  

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20 hours ago, Blackmage said:

 

you disassemble them to destroy the platters?  

had to for these one.  years ago.

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On 6/5/2017 at 3:16 PM, Prokiller said:

got it to carlisle this weekend and got another 2nd place placard.  always a bridesmaid...never a bride.  i blame it on @Yeahloh95 for not detailing my ABS block

 

It's always that ABS block that gets you.  It's okay, maybe next time. Well park next to each other at MW this year, I'll win because my ABS is deleted :P

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8 minutes ago, Steve-Oh said:

 

It's always that ABS block that gets you.  It's okay, maybe next time. Well park next to each other at MW this year, I'll win because my ABS is deleted :P

2nd place for me again.....<_<

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pulled out the center stack on saturday to replace it with the one i got from carlisle.  didn't go as planned.  i was about to swap over my supposedly nice leather shift boot and realized it was had a massive hole in the back of it.  only a couple years old and it's already junk.  so instead getting another one, figured its time to match it with the center armrest pad i had made.  took it down to the interior shop down the road from me.  guy makes amazing interiors from scratch.  been in i don't know how many magazines.... anyway, he's going to throw one together for me to match and be not so tall so it won't rip again.  

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cleaned up a few items in the engine bay.  i've never liked the faded intake paint the PO had but kept putting it off because i didn't know what i wanted to do with it.  finally just said screw and threw some black and blue at it.

36695713512_410d00f72d_b.jpg

 

redid a few bolts and cleaned up a few items.  current bay shot

36866474615_a6ed27c6cb_b.jpg

 

then had a guy right down the street from me do a new shift boot as the one i bought like a year ago was already torn.  the boots you find online are all too big for a pro5.0 shifter handle.  i brought down my armrest that i had got a while ago to him to try and match it up.  he ended up redoing that as well to match the new boot he made.  guy does AMAZING stuff.  like all magazine quality builds; of which he's been in multiple times.  check him out on IG @buxcustoms

36866474565_e1a2140269_b.jpg36470131360_5683204625_b.jpg

 

then saturday i took it down a friends shop to use his lift with the purpose of installing my torque arm finally.  didn't go as planned...  Got it up on the lift and mocked up where it the cross beam would go and it was going to be incredibly tight.  took the exhaust down and further got the beam in place.  put the rear up in place and it will clear the driveshaft as designed, so good there.  next was to bring the exhaust back up....no freakin way.  my dynomax race bullets mufflers are where the hump is and the passenger side hits.  i need another good inch to get my side pipes to mount up again.  i can make it work but will have to redo my exhaust on the passenger side which was not something i wanted to get into a week before Mustang Week.  so put it back together and took it home.  continued with another project that i thought was going to be a quick and easy thing.  yeah that snowballed into a full build in itself.  debating if i want to post that up or unveil it at MW

 

 

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the project that took the place of the torque arm was a sub install.  it started out as just cutting a piece of wood to make the floor flat again after having removing the spare tire, but quickly turned into a full sub build. i had a kicker L7 in a box from @Shifty sitting in the garage for a while now but it wouldn't fit in the trunk.  i nabbed a 300w mono kicker amp from @Yeahloh95 when @69clark and i raided his inventory.  i've had a wiring kit for years now laying around.  so figured why the hell not since i had a weekend to work on the car and pretty much all the stuff i needed.  

 

started with a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood that was sitting at my parents for about a decade.  nabbed it instead of going in the trash when they moved.  used the original carpet as a template and jigsawed it out.  quickly realized i couldn't fit it in the trunk in one piece.  so cut out a corner where the sub would go.  added some scrap pine boards i had laying around to make an edge for it.  (red wire is for fuel pump)

36909866870_88e0a55421_b.jpg

 

and here it is with the sub mounted to the removable part

36493973503_b808b9f0bc_b.jpg37116888626_fe96fd1607_b.jpg

 

now before you go an ask why it's not centered, it's because that is the only place this sub will fit.  damn thing is really deep and heavy.  if i wanted it centered, i would have had to build up the floor a good 2+" because of the shape.  the spare tire well is not centered in these cars if you haven't noticed.  also though i didn't want to put it in the middle.  i like the idea of still having trunk space.  i do bring a tent, chairs, luggage, and cleaning supplies in this car to carlisle and such.  so maintaining trunk space was a must.

 

spent the rest of the day wiring it up.  ran the power wire through the firewall and down the driver's side paneling and into the rear seat delete.  i then ran the RCAs along the passenger side to isolate them better.  the original plan was to have the amp in the spare tire space under the floor so it would be protected.  that didn't work out.  there wasn't enough space after the amp was in there.  so i mounted it to a piece of 3/4" plywood i had spare from the bathroom and have it in the rear seat delete compartment.  it's not hard mounted at the moment as i want to do a better job of wiring and organizing under there.  but it works for now.  didn't get any pictures of it as i'm not thrilled to show off the jumble of wires.  i left a lot of slack for when i do "finalize" it i have enough to do whatever.


last thing to do was cover it.  the plan was to just get some grey felt from jo-ann fabrics down the street.  cost me all of $4.66 for that.  grabbed a can of 3m super 77 from lowes for $10.58.  i was just going to cut out the around the sub and glue just the back end and maybe the right side so i could easily take this thing apart.  

36470130594_4c4d72bd52_b.jpg

 

ended up gluing and stretching it the whole way.  i can't take the sub out without cutting it off, but it was only $4 so who cares.  looks seamless now so in the end its a cleaner install.  it sounds decent for only pushing 300w and no true enclosure.  this probably won't be the end state for this, but it is a lot better than what i had before both in the sound and trunk looks department.

 

36493973493_d78e8b9dd2_b.jpg

 

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and finally two things happened on vacation.  @Yeahloh95 got me a grill for it to protect it.  and i got a kicker 300w 4way at best buy as an open box item.  got it for probably cost.  so i'll get some better deck speakers and wire that in.  most likely get a bigger mono for the sub as well and give this one back to Troy.

 

final cost for this was $15.28 so who's going to complain about that.  guess i should give Pat something for the sub at some point though...

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Just seeing it get used again in a nice car is worth it to me. Its just such a nice sub.  

 

Dont owe me anything. But I do look forward to the progression of this project @Prokiller :banana:

 

specially since i know the plans. Also cant wait to hear the difference once it is done! 

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There are very few subs that were designed to go with out a box in a free air/IB type situation and even in those cases it isn't so much you just mount a speaker to a board and call it a day as much as they are designed to work with a very large enclosure where you have to seal the trunk from the cabin/outdoors to make the enclosure.  In this case the way he has it mounted the spare tire area acts like a leaky enclosure so with enough power there will be more then enough bass but even still if you can get the fit nice and tight it will probably sound better.

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actually that's really helpful @ttocs & @Evilcw311.  I really don't know shit about car audio systems.  the more i read and watch videos about, it helps, but confuses me more.  what if i used some rubber weatherstripping to go around the wheel well?  think that would be enough to "seal" it? 

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i had already added dynamatting the whole trunk when i redo this this winter.  i was going to get this from eastwood as i can pick it up in store.

http://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-deadening-18x32-ines-34-8-sq-ft.html

 

 

 

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I am not sure I would bother with the weather stripping and instead concentrate on trying to get that board mounted down nice and tight to the trunk floor.  The tighter it is to the floor the better it will seal and like we said the better it will sound.  

 

Did you ever get to mess with the aperiodic membranes logan?  We never had anyone get that crazy at any of my shops but I have always been curious about it.

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that is a key point for this.  it has to be removable.  that was why i was thinking of the weatherstripping.  I can put it on the wood, dynamat the floor which should help take up some of the irregularity of it.  the weight of the wood and the sub SHOULD compress the weatherstripping enough to seal it pretty good.  at least in my mind it does...practicality could be very different.

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more goodies coming in tonight.  got my amps and components will arrive today.  hopefully can get them tested one night this week or this weekend.

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