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Det_Riot

Det_Riot's Sexual Teal Whale Cannon Resurrection

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I'd like to guess that last picture is some type of hose cover, but I don't think so.

 

I'm guessing maybe a powdercoated swaybar or strut bar or harness bar or something like that,,,

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The coilover bar lets you mount your setup inward over the axle instead of using the outer section of the axle and stock wheel well mounting location. Mainly used when you tub the car and cut out the stock wells.

Thanks for the explanation. I know exactly what you're talking about now.

And I think sublime was talking about what I posted a pic of which is not a coilover bar lol

Nah, he's got it. I was trying to guess what the pic was at first but then asked what the coilover bar is.

I'll give you all a hint..

It's an interior part

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I'm sticking with the wrinkle finish teal powder coat. On a roll bar is my guess.

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Nah, he's got it. I was trying to guess what the pic was at first but then asked what the coilover bar is.

Oh gotcha! I see it now ha completely missed that part of your response

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Should've hit me up for the a stifflers stuff. I'm a dealer and can get you good pricing a free shipping. Guess I need to get the word out more, lol.

Pregress looks great BTW.

dammit tom!!! killllllling me man. oh well. I got free shipping from LRS. Made some more progress tonight, gonna wait till after the weekend for a quality update

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dammit tom!!! killllllling me man. oh well. I got free shipping from LRS. Made some more progress tonight, gonna wait till after the weekend for a quality update

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No worries, when you need something else, just PM me or something, I can save you money.

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Alright! I promised you guys a good update so hopefully this will do! It isn't quite as glamorous as I was original thinking but majority of the large projects are now done.

 

Started out friday with the install of the TeamZ coilover bar. Super well built piece! Welds were on par and it fit up in there like a dream. I'll let the pics do the talking

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At this point I'll stop and point out the obvious, by putting in the coilover bar, you will lose your OEM mounting points for the gas tank. The best solution I've seen to correct this is to add new tabs to the coilover bar that will keep the oem mounting straps.

14237814988_222dce2545_b.jpg

 

Some Beads laid down by Donovan!

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Should be able to see here where the welds decided they were gonna fight back. Donovan got a nice glob of slag that happened to fall right on his poor nutsack

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Once the coilover bar was in, we set our sights in on the next project; Exhaust passage through the subframes. Started by putting the passenger side header on....well unfortunately that didn't go to plan as the BBK's decided they wanted to interfere with the bellhousing. Instead of denting the living shit out of the header, the bellhousing got some grinding action. 

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After some grinding, grinding, and some more.....grinding...... we're all in!

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Another miscellaneous side project! ARP extended studs, drop spindles, timken wheel bearings, and some h&r spacers!

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Fixed up some wiring in the car too and did a whole bunch of soldering this weekend too.

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These longer solder joints are where I soldered together the pins from the bulkhead that went through the firewall. Since the fusebox is staying in the passenger compartment, it only made sense to depin the bulkhead and solder them together!

14465384843_4b2d1f8744_b.jpg

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Great progress man! You know you're doing real shit when you've cut out the floor boards and part of the spare tire well.

 

And the welds look great Don, I know how frustrating welding the factory sheet metal can be. Even worse when the boys take a shot of lava in the process lol.

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Great progress man! You know you're doing real shit when you've cut out the floor boards and part of the spare tire well.

 

And the welds look great Don, I know how frustrating welding the factory sheet metal can be. Even worse when the boys take a shot of lava in the process lol.

 

Then there is the Ford body filler. Makes for even more frustration, especially with welding jacking rails on an sn95.

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Asteroids on the balls has gotta be terrible, ha. I've come close, but luckily it was winter and I was wearing a few layers. Don't let them get infected!

The update looks good, I was anxiously waiting over the weekend. Looking forward to seeing how the exhaust goes through the SFCs.

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If you guys are still brainstorming the exhaust pass through, here's how a guy did it on Corral. Granted he didn't have thru-the-floors but I think the same concept could be applied :2thumb:

 

IMAG0566.jpg

 

IMAG0570.jpg

 

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IMAG0595.jpg

 

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Link to the thread:

 

http://forums.corral.net/forums/svt-dohc/1389424-new-mm-rear-susp-install-nascar-style-side-exhaust-cutting-holes-subframes.html

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That's a pretty clean setup you posted there dan ... Man I haven't checked in here in quite sometime so many nice updates ,great job can't wait to see it wrapped up

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Close Dan! Imagine that but with only part of the subframe notched out. Luckily at that point if the subframe, we have a good 5" if material so we won't be losing that much strength in the SFC. Exhaust will be the battle this weekend. Hopefully we can finish it, things need to get done as the clock isn't slowing down, mustang week is creeping up, and I still need some paint and tuning done =X

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If you guys are still brainstorming the exhaust pass through, here's how a guy did it on Corral. Granted he didn't have thru-the-floors but I think the same concept could be applied :2thumb:

IMAG0595.jpg

Link to the thread:

 

http://forums.corral.net/forums/svt-dohc/1389424-new-mm-rear-susp-install-nascar-style-side-exhaust-cutting-holes-subframes.html

looks great an all, but how the hell do you get it not to rattle lol

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The tip hangers look to be solid mounted, and later on in that thread he showed the muffler hangers he made, they didn't allow much movement. I agree there'd be the chance for some rattling, but it must have worked out well for him. I left about 3/8-1/2" gaps above my side pipes to the sub frames because that's as close as I wanted to get, I'd hate to do all that work then have shit rattle lol.

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Alright! I promised you guys a good update so hopefully this will do! It isn't quite as glamorous as I was original thinking but majority of the large projects are now done.

 

Started out friday with the install of the TeamZ coilover bar. Super well built piece! Welds were on par and it fit up in there like a dream. I'll let the pics do the talking

14423285054_4364fe7df4_b.jpg

 

14237817740_0149e8dcc5_b.jpg

 

14237816728_ff17c063d4_b.jpg

 

At this point I'll stop and point out the obvious, by putting in the coilover bar, you will lose your OEM mounting points for the gas tank. The best solution I've seen to correct this is to add new tabs to the coilover bar that will keep the oem mounting straps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cough cough... fuel cell

 

I give you long tube diehards credit for all the crap you have to do just for a couple of ponies lol

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Cough cough... fuel cell

I give you long tube diehards credit for all the crap you have to do just for a couple of ponies lol

Can't climb a mountain in one step rich! I've got plans boiling over in my head. just not enough time to do them right now lol

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Can't climb a mountain in one step rich! I've got plans boiling over in my head. just not enough time to do them right now lol

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This i know im still climbing lol

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@poxenham did that in his car, for different reasons but the same concept still applies:

 

14021180139_4b182e5b87_z.jpg

 

Then add some foam rubber weather stripping and a few bolts, done.

 

Holla. I used threaded inserts on the body so it's pretty easily removable.

 

Just cut the whole dam tire well out and drop the floor back in the well is useless at this point

 

Only problem is that if you're not using a fuel cell it creates complications with mounting the stock gas tank.

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Holla. I used threaded inserts on the body so it's pretty easily removable.

 

 

Only problem is that if you're not using a fuel cell it creates complications with mounting the stock gas tank.

 

 

Fabbing up new straps and a mounting bar takes all of 30 minutes lol

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Small update. Got the old bulky k member out and the new lightweight k-member in! Holy hell. Talk about feeling defeated after a project. Took a few hours.

So, old k came out pretty easily, detach rack, steering shaft, and everything else connected to the control arms. Support engine by engine bar or something of the sort (engine hoist, etc). Once you have the engine off the k, you can take it off. Super simple removal, 6 bolts per side. Two by the OEM spring perches, and two back by the frame rail.

Installation........well......it wasn't as straight forward as you'd think. So here are some things I wish that I would of known before hand.

1. All of your brake lines going to ABS on the passenger side will troll your life while putting the k in place. So unclip them so you can move them out of the way.

2. Your OEM rack bolts will be too long. I went out and bought two 5" long bolts from ACE, those look to be perfect size.

3. You'll also need offset rack bushings to clear the k member.

3. If your motor mounts have nubs on them, just grind those fuckers off. They will troll your life.

4. Getting the motor mounts to line up is a bitch. I was limited to how far I could pick the motor because of the bell housing and t56 and that made my life hell. Also couldn't get the motor mount studs in the front alignment slots. Had to go for the back ones. Idk if that makes a difference, it just doesn't look like a lot of beating area for the motor.

But nonetheless, it does bolt right up into the OEM holes. No doubt about that. All the welds look solid. Just some install bullshit you have to deal with.

Didn't get any pictures of it installed. I really wasn't feeling proud of what we accomplished last night but it is what it is.

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Pressed in my new ball joints to the TeamZ a arms and those should be going in today with the new control arm bushings that were ordered.

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