Jump to content
95whitegt

95 gt, acts like a 2step

Recommended Posts

Been battleing an issue for a min on my 95. Car is strong when it runs right. I've almost eliminated this but every now and then while driving, it cuts back bad like its on a 2 step limiter. Almost like its only on 2 cylinders. Hit it to full throttle and it clears up until you let off then right back. Some days it gets so bad you have to pull over and let it sit for a few min. Get back in fire it up, normal again, always with a slight skip at idle. Always. I'm lost at this point. Any help appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced the dizzy trying to chase it down. It got a lot better once I modified the iac like someone had suggested before but it still has the problem just not as often. I have new plug wires on the way to change today. Going to clean and regap the plugs while at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got it from O'Reilly.  I've replaced it, the cap and rotor, set timing at 10º, set it at 15, same. I've replaced all vac lines and pcv. It acts like the injectors aren't working for a split second. I've thought about the fuel pressure regulator maybe. New filter also. I was thinking the ignition control module but was told when they go bad that's a wrap, they don't intermittently drop out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will second the notion of MSD coils being junk. I went through 3 of them before that company got the boot from my garage. I now run a Screamin Demon coil and an Accel distributor. Both were used on the car for a couple thousand miles with zero issues whatsoever before I decided to start another build on the car and never have time to put it back together again lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still have my stock dizzy in a box but being that didn't help when I replaced it I figure I'd leave that alone for now. It still bogs back a little but so far no more stutter like a 2 step when driving. I know its only a matter of time before it does it again. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ignition control module on my vert didn't flat out fail, it just wouldn't make power on the car.  basically throws the timing all out.  i would swap that out.  put if you think it's a fuel issue, have you checked the pump at all? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried checking for codes and got nothing. I have since parked the car now. Been sitting for a a few weeks. Got in it yesterday to let it run. Once it was up to temp I gave it gas sitting in neutral and it reved to 3k and fluttered at that rpm. Wouldnt go any higher even with my foot to the floor. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure what you mean? Right this minute I have to get my sons 97 trans in, once I get that done I can focus more on mine. But please by all means keep me posted on possibilities. Its get it right or rip it out and do a carb setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hate to link to another site, but check this page out.  "cylinder balance test" is part of what i was referring to.   You're saying you did the other two tests as well, KOER and KOEO?

 

http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used two different OBD1 code readers and got nothing. I know there is the old school way to make the check engine light flash the codes if any but not sure how to do that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i posted the link yesterday in the post above with how to do all that. I would walk through that post and do the KOER AND KOEO tests to further help diagnose. 

 

On 3/6/2017 at 7:49 AM, Blackmage said:

hate to link to another site, but check this page out.  "cylinder balance test" is part of what i was referring to.   You're saying you did the other two tests as well, KOER and KOEO?

 

http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was a shitty video of what its doing in neutral sitting. I haven't done the test yet being my dumb ass took the lamp out for the cel and have to put it back to get the codes. I pulled it when I couldn't get it to go off after deleting the egr. I was a new to mustang guy when I bought this car so forgive me lmao. Have anyone of you guys modified the iac? It helped drop my idle and drop rpm when shifting, also seemed to sort of help this issue but I'm wondering if just should go back to stock. More info on the car..Stock internals as far as I know. Acts like it has a cam but not sure. I put Mac shorty headers on from a fox, why the egr was deleted. From there is 2.5" or h pipe to slp lm1 dumped. Ebay cai, ford racing wires, custom made egr delete plate, new fuel filter. Smog was gone when I bought it and has had a few vac lines capped off I was always assuming dur to the smog being eliminated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine had almost exactly the same problem as what your video showed and I had to replace the PIP inside the distributor. i'd still run the tests to pull codes. 

" The profile ignition pickup (pip) sensor is Ford's fancy name for a crankshaft position sensor. It is located inside the distributor. If you got a code 14, the computer already diagnosed a bad or failing pip sensor. "

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/59055-diagnosing-a-bad-pip-sensor-on-a-ford

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my thought and why I replaced the distributer.  It didnt change any so I moved on to it being something else. I have to do the test and see what I get but I will post the results asap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

KOEO test. Codes 327 egr which is deleted but no tune to turn it off, 564 electo fan circuit failure but the fan runs fine, and then I got the 1 to signal end of codes. The next flash was 111 to indicate no codes??? KOER Codes. 136 lean bank 1, 412 CANNOT CONTROL RPM ERST high rpm check, 116 coolant temp sens, 172 lean bank 1. I didn't do a wot in the KOER test so it may be inaccurate. The 412 code is where I'm lost all the others are a simple fix.

Edited by 95whitegt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still trying to get a line to follow as far as trouble shooting my issue. Its parked for now being it can barely get out of its own way but I would love to be able to drive it a few days a week. Starting to miss it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

coolant temp sensor can really mess with the amount of fuel going into the engine.  might want to start there if youre getting that code 116.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well my sons car was priority first. Got it fixed now my wifes cobra took a shit so it is now priority.  As soon as I get it done I can get back to mine but the plan is new plugs, temp sending unit and maybe an egr delete if that can be done with a 4 bank eliminator chip. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


SN95 Source ©

The premier SN95 Community

×
×
  • Create New...