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Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance's Stealth Mare

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Hey everyone i will be transferring over my build off the forums as well as give some updated information so bare with me over the next week or so

 

hey SN95 Source members,

heres some deets on the Stealth Mare.
im the second owner and got her bone stock. the car had 210k miles when i got it and i bought her for $1500. its 97 gt with stock motor with plans for a teksid build to come with hopes of 320/350rwhp and similar torque numbers. i am building the car for autocross and maybe in the future it will be road raced. if the car lasts long enough to complete my vision for it the car will be fully built with a griggs gr40 system, coyote engine and a tremec 6 speed transmission.

on to the car!

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installed ford racing c springs, steeda tri-ax, magnaflow mufflers and tips
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dumped the exhaust, magnaflow o/r x pipe
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finally got the 98 cobras and running 275s all around, pbr calipers, matte blacked the top, got a puppy
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ditched the wing and put spacers on the rears
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got a set of ford racing fr500s with 275s all around and changed the rocker stripe set up on the fender
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finally did something about the oxidation on the rear bumper
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put on my cobra bumper along with front 13" cobra brakes
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just recently changed the top again to 94 bright blue (always wanted a blue mustang)

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as of now (6.1.2017) the car is modded as follows

Exterior
OEM cobra front bumper and fog lights
OEM style cobra front lights
carbon fiber svo side skirts
Ford Racing FR500 rims (285 35 18 in back 275 35 in front and 1 in spacers in rear)
Gorilla Automotive chrome locking lug nuts
led 3rd brake light moddified with a flash rate
slow rate sequential tail lights with flat black bezels
side rocker stripe in flat black
flat black hood scoops
flat black roof
lots of stickers! (included are racing number and name with country flag and current course raced on)
Cipher Auto front and rear blue tow straps
Custom TFB Desgins magnetic number with "022" "sn95forums.com" "sinister mustang" "ford performance" and a personal hashtag and IG name
Saleen T1 race spoiler (CF version in the works)
Cast Iron painted Cowl cover
01 Bullitt rear end with 11 65" rear vented rotors

Interior
white face gauges (speedo & hvac)
replaced gauge lights with white leds
Sony xplod stereo with bluetooth
OEM mach 460 system
10th anniversary style mystichrome cobra steering wheel 

Performance parts
78mm BBK throttle body/plenum combo
Airaid ram air cai
Steeda timing adjuster at 12*
Steeda cc plates (3 bolt)
Ford Racing lowering rear c springs with isos on the rears with a coil cut
H&R super race front springs
Magnaflow tru x off road x pipe
Magnaflow 4x9 performance mufflers
offset twin 3.5 in tips with custom side exhaust piping
Ford Facing speedo re-calibrator and 327  Bullitt rear end swap
13in front cobra style rotors w/Bullitt twin piston calipers
Maximum Motorsports SS front brake hoses
cleaned and detailed engine bay and exhaust piping
Maximum Motorsport Bilstein Sport struts
Maximum Motorsports Solid Motor Mounts

Events Raced at and upcoming
3.12.16 SCCA Starting Line @ NASA Crows Landing (44.xxx seconds)
9.15.16 SCCA Track Night in America @ Thunder Hill Raceway West (1:47.xxx)
9.25.16 SCCA Solo Nationals @ Marines Corp Airbase El Toro (71.xxx second)
3.19.17 NASA @ Sonoma/Infineon (2:19:XXX)
4.13.17 SCCA Track Night in America @ Thunder Hill Raceway West (1:40:XXX)
5.21.17 NASA @ Sonoma/Inineon
6.10.17 Speedventures @ Auto Club Speedway
6.18.17 NASA @ Sonoma/Inineon
8.13.17 NASA @ Thunder Hill Raceway East (3 Mile)
9.10.17 NASA @ Sonoma/Infineon
10.29.17 NASA @ Sonoma/Infineon (End of season for the Mare)

Pending parts for install/purchase
Ford Boss 302 Mustang Rods and 3V aluminum WAP block (WAP Build)
Maximum Motorsports full length sub frame connectors (installing 6.9.2017)
Ford Racing 355s with FRPP Trac-Loc 31 spline rear differential (pend purchase)

ARsSgNgQtOjc8I7LK7WOf1GjKhUGb5YHwBf63eR7

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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yes they are real carbon fiber

i also put in a 10th anniversary mystichrome cobra steering wheel

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photo shoot

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carbon fiber s281 spoiler from SCF in san diego

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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well tomorrow i am dropping the tank to replace my fuel pump so hopefully then my car will be back up and running. here are some pics from my earlier destruction of my mare.

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also i never posted pictures of my car on my build thread from my SCCA track day. so from now on im going to post all my "shhtuff" in here.

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and here are some photos i took after a bath as well as with my brother Andrew who i helped today work on his Elevate Volvo S80

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After hours of work and a new fuel pump the car still won't prime...

I have no idea what's wrong with the car. Ccrm looks fine. Old fuel pump looked fine. New fuel pump should work just fine. No blown fuses. I'm out of ideas

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starting to get the tank down...which was a pain

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finally got the pump off

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out

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all up and hopes of it working...which it doesnt...so im going to pick up a new ccrm sometime and hopefully that will work. the inertia switch is getting its 12volts on start up so im just clueless as to what it could be

(in case anyone was wondering if i spilled any fuel...yes...yes i did...all over myself...)

 

now here come the photos

getting the car prepped and ready to go into the garage (yes it had to be pushed...)
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snapped a pic of the engine since i dont have any engine pictures on the thread
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in the garage and up for the last time during this endeavor
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*insert middle finger emoji*
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wires seemed to be on just fine but i took them off, tightened them up and then got ready to put it back in
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tried to hear the pump prime but i couldnt however when i came back around i figured out that the pump WAS working. it was shooting the fuel out of the line that connects to the filter so it got on the ground...thanks to my step dad for making me aware... lol
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ready to drop
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right before the moment of truth
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the pleasure from her starting up and hearing that wonderful purr
[video=youtube;FdVvF9xpjo4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdVvF9xpjo4[/video]

running and out of the garage
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ccrm and splash shield put back and squared away
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"custom" openings that i will utilize at a later date to get more air to the front brakes to cool them down
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front bumper back on and everything tightened up
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she makes this whine sound that sounds like a supercharger so i thought i would throw that in there too since im already UBER excited that she is running again
[video=youtube;mjiE7SlnQh8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjiE7SlnQh8[/video]

and now both the Stealth Mare and I are happy campers
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BIG thanks to lwarrior1016 for all the insight on ways to fix my issue

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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ON ANOTHER NOTE!!! i cleaned my car today and it looks fabulous

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and i re-did my strut tower brace because why not

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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WARning!!

MOAR PICT-CHAHZ!!!!


found a good place to take some much needed pictures and the sun and lighting were forever in my favor


TO THA CAHHHHH

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yayyyyy!!!

 

so about 2 months ago i had to get my car towed. the guy who put it up on the flat bed needed to pull it up but didnt really know where to attach the hook thingy they use. long story short he messed up the passenger side of the front suspension. it creaked and squeaked more than it should.

fast forward to today about an hour ago. im tired of my car sitting up as high as it does, so i decided i wanted to lower the front a bit more since i run isos. i am all to familiar with what can happen to my car without the isos (ill show you pictures with the previous damage due to ca poop roads *cough cough* 880). i lifted up the car and went to work. i removed the top isos and left the bottoms on. while doing that i also checked my inner and outer tie rods to see if they need replacing which honestly i probably will replace them anyways in the near future. any who when i got to the passenger side i really wanted to see if i could find what was causing the issues but didnt really find much. i also took this as a great opportunity to see how much room i have with my 275s up front. i must say, holy crap i dont think i can fit 285s up front without some modifications. pics about this as well.

now i had put the car down. drove it around a bit. and holy crap AGAIN. it feels a lot more firm. it feels a lot more responsive. virtually no noise and the added low makes me happy. it is lowered about a finger. so now for the pictures.

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it was basically 3 fingers

also since i had the fronts off i took advantage and cleaned the insides. something i like to do every now and then

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*says "'merica" and cries manly tear for being made in the usa*

here is the exposed wires on the driver side from these lovely (im lying) roads in the bay area

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im gonna need [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] and [MENTION=20210]lwarrior1016[/MENTION] to instruct me on repairing and moving these wires

after i finished with the driver side and my "room to work"

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on a full turn

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and now after i dropped it before i drove

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and now after a quick drive

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Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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since i wont be buying anything any time soon for my car i decided to go around and mess with things here and there.

i went and PAINTED my tire letters blue but it was a pain in the but to do.

i had to make a stencil first and then afterwards mask everything off so i wouldnt get paint on the tires body and wheels

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doesnt look too bad but also isnt perfect. i expect it to maybe last a month or so. who knows

 

white outlined the blue, redid the 275 and refreshed the smile that randomly appeared on my car like 4 months ago

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*update* so the blue lasted like 10 minutes...I drove a couple miles to the dmv to meet up with my brother and when I went to show him the blue had flaked off. Lol...wasted time for sure. Looks like cheetah print now

 

so i was never really fond of how tall the rear of my car sat and it had way too much travel which isnt a bad thing but on a racecar... well... racecar.

i found out that my step dad had a dremel tool, so i asked him if i could use it and got to work on it. took me about 3 hours start to finish (which isnt too bad) and i used 6 cutting wheels. would of been less, but i prematurely broke some when lining up the wheels.

took this picture wednesday because i was gonna do it then but it was like 8 at night so i did it today. you cant really tell how high the rear is but if you look at some previous pictures you can see how big the gap was. i could stick my entire hand into the gap and it measured about 2.5 2.75 from the top of the panel to the top of the wheel. i wanted to drop it about an inch and i think i achieved that today.

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put dat bootea up

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first spring out and fairly dirty
that blue though

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it was awesome seeing all the sparks fly around, not to mention i got my MCM on

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i had to cut at an angle because the dremel tool was a lil too curvy

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z 1 full koi all

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repainting to make sure it wont rust and also it was a bit lacking in blue

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THAT. BLUE. THOUGH!

back up in the car and looking awesome *that blue though*

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got the car back down before i took it on a drive to test it out

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right after i got back and man what a difference. first thing i noticed when i sat in the car was i felt like i was falling back a little due to the change in height. took it around for a mile or so and man its so firm in the back now and feels way more responsive. not to mention it looks whey bettahh

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its about 3 fingers now which is about an inch and a half, inch and a quarter and i love it. i think it may settle a tad more over the night, but damn does it look so much better

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like i said before.

clean car means happy car

happy car means photo shoot!

yay!!!


PICTURES!

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i went to my usual spot near my house in pleasanton. the car got a bit dirty right after but youll know why when you see the pics hahah

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dis one iz mah fav

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Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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so im trying to decide on a new spoiler for my car and i kinda like this one. what do you guys think?

365930

 

On a real note though I do want to get a different spoiler...I'm a tad tired of the s281... I wish I could have picked up the ducktail from bti-fab but unfortunately he doesn't make them for the sn anymore...

So. With that being said.

I'm thinking of getting one of these bad boys

BAM!!!!

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so today i tried to solve my issue. and in doing said task i documented because why the fvck not?!

i got a new duralast filter of fuels (wanted to get motorcraft but wasnt in store and didnt want to wait) as well as motorcraft 5w20 and oil filter


now on to the pictures

before i got started i met up with my brother for a minute

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them sexy carzz


then i got to work putting that booty up

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the new filter and le culprit

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*cough* *cough* that blue though...

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:deeplist:

old one out and dont worry guys! i got fuel all over myself!

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new one tucked away in its new bed

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and now on to the "new" injectors...
they look fairly new but they have 30k miles on them... and are from 1998.
luckily these guys were one of the original components off my step dads 98. only taken off because of le m-6066-m462 
*cough*  [MENTION=7995]DropTopPony[/MENTION] ...

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candid engine shot

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lack of awesomeness

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i decided to clean the fuel rails a bit because why the fvck not and i used my special metal polish and they turned out nice. too bad you dont really notice them

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the 243.6k injectors vs the 30k injectors and yes theyre 19#, ill upgrade to 24 down the road

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le oil change

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the old filter (which was teanie tiny) and the macho ford part cause 'murica

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and then i finally got the car down and she was happy.

but frank?!

you didnt say if you fixed the issue?

DID YOU?!?!?!?

DID YOU????????

 

you wanna know? you really wanna know?....


no.

i actually failed miserably.

not really but it feels like it. i actually had a check engine light on after i was done. a P0113, but thats because i forgot to reconnect the sensor on the intake, the tiny one after the maf


heres a video i took to kinda show what its doing. you can hear the missing pretty well or whatever the hell it is that its doing. ohh and dont mind the smoke... just.. forget you saw that. imagine theres a tiny man from Serbia smoking like 8 packs a minute


[video=youtube;IxrwWw2bm-A]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxrwWw2bm-A[/video]

  [MENTION=19732]Ballistic[/MENTION] ,.... i failed you... but on the positive side it sounds a whole hell of a lot healthier... i just need to figure out what the hell her problem is...

 

so like i said in the "what did you do..." thread i went and redid my calipers because i was tired of them looking like... well... :dancingpoop: ...


ANY WHO!...


on top of that i took care of the exposed wires under the splashshield (on top?...) and oddly enough after i started up the car and put on the ac (which normally as of late when i do its like... miss galore...) and there was virtually no evidence of the miss. drove her around for a tiny bit with the ac on and very small misfirage (yeah i just made a new word) and then i turned it off because i didnt really need it and now i can almost completely give the car throttle, but there is still slight misfirage. could the exposed wires cause shorting? [MENTION=20210]lwarrior1016[/MENTION] and [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION]? it did seem to make a difference. while "repairing" the wires i also moved them a bit so i could have some more clearance under the fender for the wheel and its glorious rubbing of the remaining splashshield.

now for the pictures and quick (30 sec) video


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Le step dads 335

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this is what they looked like due to adjustments and such of suspension and not having gloves to wear

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the first coat that i started on the passenger side so i could give it time to dry while i worked on the wires

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4 wires were cut on one section. you can notice the gray one up top and on the bottom the white, yellow, orange, and blue
and then i took the "splashshield" out

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got them "repaired"

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this is the section near the windshield wiper fluid

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wrapped up and tucked up higher for some more clearance

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"as you can see on the chart..." i tucked it behind the case and that little bracket thing

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passenger side finished and back together as well as the driver side

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YAY!

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mmmmmmm....sexyyy

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that blue though

and heres the video. hahah enjoy..


[video=youtube;ND_oNTT96t8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ND_oNTT96t8[/video]

 

oh guyssss... guess whattt...

and Ballistic you may like this


so i washed my car because it was dirty as fvck. i took it out to take some pictures (which i will post) and after i took most of them i had a check engine light on. 

ok im sure i know what this is. 

sure enough i plug in the obdii and its a misfire on number 7.

 just what i thought. 

i drove home and took out the entire plug wire for 7 and the plug itself. it was old and looked like it needed major replacing which i know they all need. i remembered there was at least one plug in the garage. i was assuming it was used, but knew it would be in better condition than the one i just took out. i found it and to my surprise it was brand new (insert amazing happy face emoji). put it in, started up the car and dude...completely fixed! i put the ac on max and i can give 100 percent throttle, and man does she go! i actually got a little squirrelly in the back in the video i took (and that will be posted too).


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the 2nd gear pull is where it gets a little squirrelly. i got her up to 80 in the video


[video=youtube;pkduBCklLpc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkduBCklLpc[/video]

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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le wild mare in the concrete confines of society

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but that blue though...

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okay, okay...

now to some actual good pictures yeah?

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you will try...but you cant cage me...

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i told you i would get out;)

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friend!!

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now you may continue with your lives peasants...

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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I finally got in my stickers the other day (not all of them) and im super happy not only with how they came out but how they look on my "accessories"

some for my helmet

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and the rest for me kurrr

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why FR500 you ask? well, simple...it's gonna match the FR500 emblems im getting for the car!

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also i got a couple treats for you guys :angel4:

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lol but you all know i love you hahah

and then i did a little photo shoot this morning at 630...sun wasnt even up yet

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*maniacal Joker laugh*




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so shes well versed, whats your point?

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so this happened today guys!


pictures!

AWAY!!!!

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WARNING! PICTURE MAY CONTAIN EXPLICIT CONTENT

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WARNING! NEXT PICTURE IS OF THE EXPLICIT VARIETY. VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED.

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so not every exhaust picture is in order, but you guys get the gist of it. i only used 100 grit paper. i plan to go up to 1500 or maybe 2000 one day, but this was i all cared to do today. took me an hour to wet sand both to completion.

with the topic of the wires i found some small cylinder type piece of metal and i grind (ground? idk past tense of grind...grinded isnt a word...) the piece so i could put it around the covered wires. since some of the metal was exposed i gave it a little spray of grabber green thats in the garage. after i got it around the wires i tightened it up and then covered it with electrical tape. so now i shouldnt have that issue again.

Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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got in a good little photo shoot since my car is clean n such

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 1994stangfan

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and heres a quick clip of my tail lights when i brake. the 6x flash rate to solid with a 20 second delay

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as many of you know, or are at least led to believe, i live in California. however my car is not; my car is originally from Chicago, IL. with that being said she has a decent amount of rust in places. today was spark plug changing day and while i have a strut tower brace it makes it harder to access all the plugs. i was planning to make the bolts that bolt it in black since they were pretty ugly. so today has turned into a engine clean up/dress up day. many cut and bleeding figures have followed, but i could not be happier with how it looks at the moment. granted its not complete, but is very tits level. i guess you could say shes increasing her TITS LEGIT factor. now heres the pictures

le new spark plugs vs the old, for all i know could have 245k miles on them and at least have 35k on them plugs

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these are what the bolts looked like. i sanded them down and then used a metal wire spindle thingy to polish them out a bit

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then i did the same thing with this guy. it was super ugly and had surface rust

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then i moved on to the alt

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then i decided to paint the radiator brackets my signature light ford blue that i paint almost everything on my car

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theres a ton more misc bolts and hoses and things that im gonna clean up/paint too but can only do so much in one afternoon

 

you may be wondering why ive gathered you all here...

as you may know cars and coffee was today and i had to make sure my car was not only show ready, but also track ready for my next 2 events on the 15th of this month and 30th of october at thunder hill and willow springs respectively. so this week and weekend has been crunch time on functionality and aesthetics

i got to work making a front and rear bracket for my tow straps

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in doing so i also cambered out my fronts to the set up i do for track events because racercar

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part of the brackets that were done painted up

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hey, you wanna see my special lady with her bra off? dont tell her i showed you

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starting with the holes

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also cleaned up the rusty parts in the bay and painted them high temp black

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re did this guy

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can you guess what color i painted it?...

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cut into both the front and rear bumpers but the front more so than the rear

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almost completed

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front and rear finally done

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then i went back to my exhaust and polished them up more with a wire wheel

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then i got her all squared away because all the rest of my stickers came in so OBVIOUSLY i had to get them on!

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#getting my [MENTION=17616]the5.ohh[/MENTION]h on lol

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Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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heres some nice little pics from my week down in socal with brandon

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dem brakes doeeee

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awesome time, great food and fun doing a little canyon run. next time we have to make sure we complete the entire canyon. my car was super low on gas and brandons was overheating

 

this was before my trip to la la land

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this was mmm...about an hour ago!

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FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE MECHANICALLY INCLINED *to most of us this is like potty training so we got it down* How To install front coil springs! A step-by-step provided by the mind of Frank J Perez.

Step 1: get yourself a set of springs

*bam*

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Step 2: Get a Car! *hopefully you did this before step 1...*

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Step 3: If your car is already low or youre having clearance issues get something solid like a piece of wood or a little ramp to drive up on so you can get under the front. For me i have tons of left over parts from the maintenance my dad has done on the camry he has.

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Step 4: Drive vehicle onto "spacers"

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Step 5: MAKE SURE BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THE CAR YOU LOOSEN THE LUG NUTS

Step 6: raise the car up and make sure its high enough to get jack stands under at nearly the highest lift. You will be needing to swing the front control arms down quite a bit to get the spring out. One of the best places to position the stands are on the k member right "behind" the control arms.

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Step 7: Put on your isolators *or in this scenario wrap them top and bottom with electrical tape*

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Step 8: remove wheels from spindles *look at that big ol tire*

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Step 9: Acknowledge that these 4 bolts will be the most annoying and time consuming part of unbolting and bolting

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Step 10: loosen the sway bar end links and then proceed to remove them. Youll need *for me at least* 9/16 for your tools a short one and a long one. While loosening the links it helps to hold onto the sway bar so you can be sure to keep it in one place. Once removed put it all back together as to not lose any parts or forget how it went together.

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Step 11: Removing the brake caliper and rotors. Use a 15mm to loosen the bolts and once removed suspend the caliper so it does not sag and rip your brake hose or give you a bad time when you go try to brake later.

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Step 12: remove the "locking" bolt/washer from the bolts holding in your struts. You will need a 13/16 and a 15/16. the Bolt is a 15/16. Work your magic like on the weird stairs walk run thing of a machine at the gym *if you do that kind of thing* With the bolt off now the abs bracket is free to come off.

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Step 13: remove the abs lines from the brakets so you have more play and so they too dont break. there are 3 points where it needs to be removed.

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Step 14: Remove the tie rod end links from the spindle. You will need a 18mm to get it off but first you need some pliers to remove the little pin. Once the pin is removed and bolt off proceed to put the bolt on upside down and thread it down a tad. Now go find a hammer. Now use that hammer..to create mass destruction for about .5 seconds. Then realize you're not trying to break things and lightly tap until the end link comes out of the spindle. At this step move the jack under the control arm where the spring is. this will be utilized in the next step.

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Step 15: Go back to the weird gym work out thing and take out the 2 bolts and nuts holding in the strut. Again make sure you keep it together. Now since you have everything unbolted and out of the way slowly let the jack down so the spring can decompress slowly and not break your face. Usually at this part is where you would need to use a crow bar to pry the enormous spring out, but since i already had FRPP lowing springs i didnt need the crow bar. Now you have the ability to push the entire a arm down which you will need to do to remove the spring. using one hand on the arm or your foot will suffice. Eventually you will get it out and you will see this.

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***Take a brief intermission to check everything, get some food and water and mentally prepare for the next steps***

Step 16: Check everything and clean the bottom of the a arm housing for the spring. You will also notice there are 2 holes. Remember those guys. Once you clean it up look for those 2 holes. If you follow the housing like a snake you will see the hole facing the front of the car *on the passenger side and on the drivers side its facing the rear* this hole is where you want to line up the pig tail of your springs when they go in. Also check the top of the housing for the spring to make sure its clean and you dont have any issues.

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Step 17: Now you get to put in your new springs! Yay! Muscle those bad boys in and try not to mess them up while also being weary that they need to be placed a specific way *allude to the previous step* If the springs aren't lining up correctly just move the a arms down like you did to remove the stockers and adjust accordingly. Once in place use the jack to move the a arm back up into place. Move them up high enough to start to get the bolts back in for the struts and once they're both in you can lower the jack and get it out of your way. Once the bolts are in put your tie rod end links back in and finger tighten them. They will be tightened when your car is down on the ground. Start putting things back together like they were before you decided to destroy your precious vehicle. Double check your placement on the springs. Both the sides should have one hole exposed. Once you're done checking and it looks like the picture put everything back together and start on the other side!

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And then after you've passed in flying colors you can jump to swapping out your rear end!

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Whoops wrong write up...


I know this is nothing new and a super simple swap to the mass majority of us here on the site, but i know this may help out others like [MENTION=20901]Royal96[/MENTION] , [MENTION=21754]nic[/MENTION] , and [MENTION=21680]Stock982v[/MENTION] as some of these people have asked questions in the past or seeking some type of guidance.

 

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Edited by Frank.JD.Perez
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15 hours ago, RedTwilight said:

Welcome to The Source Frank!  Great to have ya around.

 

Hurry and get that T1 to Thomas so he can start the carbon pieces.;)

Then it will be (as you would say) tits legit.

? that I do say

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AND LOOKING SEXY AS EVER!!!

PHO TOTO BOMBBB

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heres some post cars and coffee pics and my new goodies for your eyes

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since my car is still clean im gonna go out and get some more tits legit pictures.

my good buddy Tim of TFB Designs hooked me up with a custom set of magnetic numbers with my number 022, ford performance on the bottom, my ig name FJDPerez and one of my hashtags #ADMasFvck, as well as the Sinister Mustang logo and of course the SN95Forums log0


that cold, wet, dirty photo shoot though

 

Latest photo shoot

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Cleaning your car for a car show usually means lots of photos!!!

YhM2bNWg9u3N5L12fevN0BIa0Uho9L7LCYqGb__x

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_CtXcMwy8ZqK0uhv5-frIwPa40m_FthrvgoUJPJ-

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Round 2

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and here are some pics that my brother took for me before cars and coffe

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*and finally what Bob has been waiting for*

 

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All the photos in this post are courtesy of my brother Andrew (E39 Dad Car)

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PIC DUMP!

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Courtesy of the Forza franchise i have been able to express my feelings as well as dream beyond what is capable to most so i have been able to design my race livery for the Mare

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So...




We Did A Thing today...


We actually did a couple things 


one is install the bullitt rear end that was bought a few days ago.
*pics to follow*

AND


What some of you have been anxiously waiting to know.
And some of you had no idea was happening.
*also pics to follow*

Delivered today and picked up today 


Was



A set of 





oem







2013 Boss 302 rods


And a aluminum 


3V


WAP block


OHH YEAHH!!!!

THATS RIGHT THE ENGINE BUILD HAS STARTED

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FJD Performance had a good weekend last week down in Fontana with B.mad codfod and ReplicaR

pictures will come in time, but until then FJD Performance's Mare ran a 42.748 out on the autocross course. the fastest time we saw was 39.0XX by a supercharged miata

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since where i left off last was right before the T1 i figured i might as well continue where i left off!

 

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All the photos in this post are courtesy of my brother Andrew (E39 Dad Car)

 

PIC DUMP!

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here are the unofficial official pics of FJD Performance out at Thunderhill back in August. i paid for the day and never got photos and no responses from the guy either so im still salty about that

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i will also have some videos tomorrow and some numbers for you all tomorrow

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heres some pics from my gt500 hood vent install. since the projected temperature on my track day in august was 103 i wanted to make sure i got as much heat out of the engine bay as i could. granted i was blessed to have the high drop from 103 to 96, but it was still very hot out there as well as on the track itself.

i started by taking a lot of measurements and marking with the tape. ReplicaR helped me out a whole lot especially when we got on a live phone call. the project didnt take too long, but it was rushed since i had about 8 hours to finish the project before i had to wake up at 4AM to get on the road. i also was doing new brake fluid and pads earlier in the day so it was a total track day prep

but heres some pics off the IG since i dont have them on my phone anymore to upload to flickr

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why the pictures are being weird i dont know

after i made the template for where i was going to cut the hood i drilled holes all the way through the hood along the area i was going to cut. after drilling the holes i used a dremel and cut along the lines. honestly this part did not take that long. the longest parts of this project were measuring for cutting the hole and then using the expanding foam because it has to dry and cure.

after my actual track day i wanted to make sure i got out more heat as well as stopped water from getting on important parts like the coil packs and the alternator and belt. so i made a shield of sorts

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again lots of measuring and fitment testing with that aluminium piece. im not done with it either since i have to take care of the 2 outer sides of the vent

 

driving home the other day my clutch got really easy to push in and when i got off the freeway i was totally terrified because the noise my car made sounded like we were about to die. i thought the clutch had blown up on me and i was very freaked out and worried because iw as thinking. how am i gonna get to work tomorrow. how are the replacement parts gonna get here. its too late for me to actually go to a store and get the parts i want and need. am i gonna have to tow the car the rest of the way home. al sorts of things.

i had more than enough money saved up at the time to go and buy all the replacement parts (flywheel, clutch, clutch fork, throw out bearing, pivot bearing, etc) but it was wednesday night and even with 2 day shipping i wouldnt get the parts until monday. so i eventually decided to drive it home and had to endure the horrible sound it was making.

the irony is that i knew i was having some issues and was making plans to take it in to get work done because i didnt want to drop the transmission myself and have to replace parts.

well

this issue meant i had to drop the tranny.
yay

i got the car home. got it up, got the transmission down and out that night (worked until 2 AM) and found out my throw out bearing exploded.

so lucky me it was a simple fix.

i had the car back up and running in maybe 10 hours total work time. i had a lot harder time getting the transmission out than putting it back in. i think from the time i started in the morning to when i actually got the transmission in was about an hour hour and a half

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27 minutes ago, Frank.JD.Perez said:

this is where i left last on my build over on the forums. for whatever reason i cant post pictures there anymore so now my build thread will continue here

 

LOL  did you break the Forums!?

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Since the last track day posted in the thread i went coil overs on front with tubular a arms and got in a PHB as well as added to my race livery. I also ditched my 10th anniversary style mystichrome cobra steering wheel (sorry @LWARRIOR1016) in favor of a Ford Performance Sparco racing wheel

 

enjoy all the pics peeps!

 

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also found out i bent this... lovely

 

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i have a more in depth write up of sorts about this on my website, fjdperformance.com

check it out if you want more deets and some puns and humor

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