Jump to content

Dragon Slayer - 1995 Mustang GT Build Thread - Now With 100 Percent More IRS

Recommended Posts

Since Photobucket murdered all of my pictures, here's everything in no specific order in a Flickr album instead:





I'm going to copy and paste this over so it'll be a couple years condensed into a few posts lol...:


So I'm currently helping a friend, as he is not very mechanically inclined though eager to learn, get his 1995 Mustang GT back on it's feet after a decade of neglect. His dad bought the car for him back in '03 when we were both in high school and it ran for about a year before things started acting up. First the trans starting leaking fluid out out the front seal, the steering column was starting to act up, and then it managed to blow a head gasket and got parked sometime in mid '04. Fast forward a couple years and he's wanting to get it running again and we start to tear it down and diagnose what happened. Nothing was too out of the ordinary other than a few bent pushrods and the blown passenger side head gasket, but when we went to pull the trans out one of the flex pate nuts rounded off. We called it a day and meant to get back to it the next weekend (I live about half an hour away and didn't have most of my tools with me). Somehow things kept coming up and the Mustang was put on the back burner as life got in the way.

Jump up eight years to this June and he finally decided it was time to get moving on the project again. By this point the car had sat without heads on it for years and his dad had used the interior as storage after he moved out and sometime during the period it was sitting his little sister managed to lose the keys. My friend also decided he wanted to convert from an auto to a manual as well and with all the other random little things the car needed it was decided that the best route would be to grab a parts car and go from there. So I hopped on the ole interwebs and found a wrecked '94 5.0 5-speed that was coming up for auction via Copart and snagged it for a little over a grand after all the fees, taxes,etc. It had been hit in the rear driver's side quarter, but since we didn't need anything from back there and the interior was in pretty good shape and the engine trans only had 107k on it, we came out pretty far ahead. Enough with the words, here's some pictures.

Here's the parts car on the way back from China Grove:


Massive sub enclosure discovered when we opened the trunk:


No time wasted gutting the interior:


And finally the Red car that everything will be going into shows up:


More in the following posts.


Edited by nitroram33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So while we were waiting on parts, we started tearing down the red car. First up was the engine/trans combo. The motor mounts kept hanging up on the headers so I just chopped the front primaries off each side since they weren't going to be reused:


Engine and trans out of the car:


Suspension was the next thing to come off the front:

Suspension came off because I thought it would be the best time to get the new UPR K-member in that we were going to need in the future and it gave a good opportunity to freshen up the front end a bit since it had been sitting so long as well:


UPR piece ompared to the stock K-member:


We decided to steal the rack off the parts car as well and replaced the inner tie rod ends because the passenger side wound up getting u-shaped during the accident. No damage to the right front wheel or sheet metal so I've still got no idea how this happened:

There was a mouse living in the car during it's slumber and it ruined the carpet, so new carpet goes in as well as the manual pedal assembly with MM billet quadrant and firewall adjuster, and the heater (A/C and smog pump are being deleted) box from the parts car with a new heater core:


My poor garage...:


Dash and console reunited with the car:

Seats and column back in as well:




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now where I/we got to through this past weekend up to yesterday. The balljoints were junk on both cars so I snagged a set of MOOG arms with new bushings and balljoints from Rock Auto. Turns out they don't fit so well out of the box with the UPR K-member. The front of both arms hit the main piece of tubing of the K-member and required a lot of clearancing, enough so the I broke through the corner of the stamping and had to weld in a reinforcement plate from underneath on the driver's side:


After patching it and smoothing things out:


Compared to the passenger side arm with no clearancing:


Got the arm on, spring in, and the knuckle bolted up to the strut last night, but the car doesn't have enough weight on the front end with no engine/trans in it to keep the balljoint from turning in the knuckle so we're going to have to finish the swap before I can get the front end put back together. I'll get more/better pictures later, ran out of daylight.


Started to put the front end back together a few days ago and figured out that without the engine/trans in there that there isn't enough weight on nose of the car to hold the ball joint still when I jack up on the control arm before the car starts to come up off the jackstand. No bueno. So we decided to just go ahead and get the engine and trans in, but mother nature didn't like that idea and the rest of the week it stormed just as it was getting cool enough to work on the car. One of the castle nuts for the outer tie rods ran away as well and I couldn't find one in the right size anywhere that didn't have a crazy wait so I just ordered up a new pair of Moogs instead. Anyway, here's a few pictures.

Suspension partially reassembled. Springs actually went in somewhat easy:

Empty engine bay with an okay view of the new UPR K-member. It somehow went in square on the first shot...:

Donor engine with the upper pulled and the radiator out so it can come out the top when it cools off this afternoon with the help of my handy dandy Ford EFI lift plate:

Donor on the left, patient on the right:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

As we left the engine last night where it tried to run away:


Forgot to take a picture of the engine once we got it back up top, but we wound up getting a couple of my friend's cousins and one of their friends to help us pick the two of them up and slide the now ruined hood off the parts car under it then pulled it up the bank with my SuperCrew.

The two of them having an identity crisis:

And finally, though a terrible picture because it was getting dark, the engine and trans in their new home:

Time for another update. Mother nature has not been kind lately and we've only had a couple days to work on the car per week since the last update. We've managed to get a decent amount accomplished though despite the limited time. The engine/trans are completely hooked up and bolted down with the exception of one stubborn collector bolt and the battery (waiting on a new tray mount kit to get here today). Drive shaft is in and just needs to have the bolts torqued down and the trans filled with fluid. Found out the nipple on the back side of the PS reservoir was broken off when I went to hook that line up so had to toss a new reservoir on as well. New brakes are on the front and hopefully the rears get done today. Anyway, here's some more pictures:

Actual jackstands on the left, redneck jackstands on the right (actually works better for that one since it's on a bit of an incline and the blocks have more area in contact with the ground):

What your rotors will look like if you leave your car sitting for a decade. Also, you can sorta see in this picture what I hadn't really paid attention to/noticed before: the car apparently already was upgraded with some sort of aftermarket lower control arm by the previous owner and the quad shocks are gone.:

Speaking of quad shocks, the one on the parts car on the side that got hit has seen better days. Also, anyone notice anything wrong with the rotor on that side? lol2.gif:

Blurry picture of the vacant engine bay of the parts car:

Not a whole bunch left on the inside either:

New pads and rotors done upfront on the '95 along with some very dirty Cobra Rs:

Engine bay pretty much done for now:

First time the front wheels have been on the ground in over a month:


So today makes 2 months exactly from when we purchased the parts car from Copart. It's also the day that we finally got this thing running again for the first time in a decade. After an initial no go due to a bad starter relay, the Mustang lives!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

So today makes 2 months exactly from when we purchased the parts car from Copart. It's also the day that we finally got this thing running again for the first time in a decade. After an initial no go due to a bad starter relay, the Mustang lives!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't get anywhere near as much done as I wanted to last weekend and ran into a few snags so I'm waiting for parts again. Here's a few updates for giggles though.

New steering wheel:

With NRG Gen 2.8 quick release:



And with the wheel off:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for the snags: turns out the Fox upper intake/tb/egr spacer I bought off eBay was an '86 instead of a '87-93 like it was advertised and I didn't notice until I got ready to install it. Having to wait on a newer TB and egr delete plate to get here now, but it may work out better in the end because I picked up a thin delete plate which should hopefully help with clearing the strut tower and brace with the intake tube as they hit pretty solidly now. MM2 struts are also back ordered until Jan. 9th, so that's been placed on the back burner as well. Do have a Mach 1 style chin spoiler ready to go on to kill a little time though.



Got a little more done, but still waiting on parts. Passenger airbag is gone and the cover is put back where it was, the stuff for the cruise, washer reservoir, and vacuum canister are gone from inside the driver's side fender and the rest of the smog stuff is gone from inside the passenger side fender. Also removed the factory air dam looking things that were riveted onto the stock bumper. Should hopefully have most of the missing parts tomorrow so I can get it back up and running again. The longer Fox intake bolts are the only things that are questionable...



MM apparently got the struts in early because everything shipped out last week. UPS has everything at the local distribution center but haven't sent them this way for whatever reason so I won't see anything until Friday. angry4.gif

On the bright side, I guess that'll give me a couple days to screw around and get the front end tore back apart. In the mean time, here's some of the pictures I didn't get a chance to throw up the other day:

Here's the fox upper and TB swap completed:

Took some "massaging" to both the top of the runner and the bottom of the strut tower brace to get everything to clear. Will definitely have to go aftermarket for the brace whenever we go to shove the 351W-based 427 in there in a few years:

Used a 3/8" aluminum EGR delete spacer and cut up a piece of tubing from a eBay CAI kit to modify the stock airbox to work with the new Fox TB position for now. Saved buying a new MAF housing and manages to clear everything (if just barely):


And finally, you wouldn't ever know there isn't an air bag behind there anymore lol...:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chin spoiler is on and the both sides of the front suspension and brakes are back together. Just need to torque down the lower control arm to K-member bolts and the brakes and then I can adjust to caster/camber plates and set the ride height and it'll be all done until the next time.



Left the front ride height at the measurements it had before the coilovers so he can still get it up and down his driveway for the moment (it's a bumpy, muddy mess right now), but it'll get a lot more low once the IRS goes in and gets coilovers out back too.





Turn in is MUCH, MUCH quicker. Bumpsteer is noticeable at the moment since I didn't bother putting the bump steer kit on since a flaming river rack is in the cards pretty soon and didn't want to have to align it twice (it's pretty close right now). The really stiff front springs (400lbs/in) and the unknown brand/rate rear lowering springs make it a bit twitchy at the moment, but when the IRS is in and upgraded it should handle ridiculously.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just ordered a new (rebuilt) power steering rack and hoses to go along with the new power steering pump that's already here. Should be here sometime next week so I can install the rack/lines, pump, new MM solid shaft, and bump steer kit sometime next weekend. Then it'll be time to play the waiting game until he gets his tax refund and then we'll be picking up an 03/03 IRS and kitting that install sorted out before it goes in for an alignment all the way around.


Swapped spacers around on the top of the coilovers so there's .75" more drop on each side without compressing the springs any, which will be handy later. The rack is also off as is the power steering pump and lines. New/rebuilt pump and rack along with new lines, MM solid shaft, and MM bumpsteer kit will be going back on it hopefully tomorrow and then that should have the front suspension and steering completely finished.
Also swapped on a new, shorter main ground wire as well as the old one was a little too long. Need to do something about the old positive cable as well while I have it as it is old and corroded. Chasing a loose connection somewhere that surfaces when the car lurches over bumps or when transitioning from forward to reverse and vice versa where the car tries to die out, but never quite does. It makes the head unit lose power and the speakers make a popping noise as well which is annoying. Hopefully redoing the main power and ground wires to the battery will solve the issue as they were old and nasty and didn't really wanna stay tight with lots of fiddling, so hoping it's that and not something that's buried under the dash somewhere.


Bunch of things came up and just now getting the car temporarily back on it's feet. Need to raise it back up and get a little more low out of the driver's front then it's off to get an alignment and then I can adjust the bump steer. Also ordered some MM full length sub-frame connectors, upper and lower torque box kit, a hood strut kit, and a new shift knob to go in next time I get a chance too today. IRS swap will have to wait until June since my friend got boned on his taxes lol...


Car has been aligned (MUCH better now), old subframe connectors which weren't doing shit have been cut off, and the new MM full length subframe connectors have been tacked in. Going to finish up welding in the morning and then it'll be ready for the road again. cool.gif


Subframe connectors are finished. Went to put on the new MMD hoods struts and it turns out they're a no go with a Stalker hood and Caster/Camber plates without mods. I'll get pics tomorrow when I'm done modifying them...


Soo much for the hood struts, the Stalker hood continues to cause issues. Fixed the mounting bracket but the hood won't close with the struts on because of a lip on the outside edge that won't clear the end of the strut. Will have to circle back around to those later when i have more time...


Indeed. They'll go on one day, just gonna have to be when I have more time lol... Stupid hood. angry4.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the list of parts that will eventually wind up being used for the upgraded IRS swap with part numbers:

03-04 Cobra IRS  
Rear Differential Gasket LLR-F880
Rear Axle Girdle MM-4033-G3
IRS Grip Box MMRG-22
Rear MM2 Shock x2 BE5-2959-MM2
Rear IRS Coilover Kit COP=4
Cross-Axis Joint Upgrade Kit MMIRSB-3
Racing Rear Upper Shock Mount MMSM-7
Cobra Flange Yoke F1465268
Upper and Lower Torque Box Kit 2016-UL
Sway Bar Kit 3590.32
Conversion U-Joint 448
Link to comment
Share on other sites




Now with 100% less tarp:


Turns out it already had a diff brace and poly diff mount plus a bumpsteer kit of a currently unknown brand.

Edited by nitroram33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Working on getting my shop up right now. Slab should be poured next week and then the building should be up by the end of the month or early July and then I'll just have to get it wired up and set up the compressor and lift and we'll be ready to tackle the IRS swap. Already have the brake stuff, flange, conversion u joint, and the new exhaust sitting here ready to go and will be ordering a bunch more Maximum Motorsports stuff between now and the install as well. Here's a sneak peak of the shop building lol:



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the temporary exhaust welded up. We're going to just dump it in front of the axle for now since the whole thing will eventually be re-done when the bigger engine goes in. For now it's just a 2.5" ball/socket adapter, a 12" Dynomax Race Bullet, and a slightly modified turn down for each side. Anyway, pics below:

Trick for holding together two pieces of pipe when butt welding them is to buy a T-bolt clamp, drill four holes (two on one side and two on the other) a short distance from each other and then cut out the extra metal in the middle. You can then clamp the crap out of it and tack the pieces together through the newly created hole before removing the clamp to finish welding:


Ignore the weld on the one lol, was still arguing with it about grounding at this point:



The completed pair:


This thing is going to be stupidly loud...:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got my shop mostly finished (just have a little painting to do and to run the air lines to the new compressor) so we installed the new exhaust. Wound up that the exhaust as pictured above was a little too short to reach the hangers in the back so I made some extensions out of two 6" piece of flex pipe (for a little extra clearance and to isolate things a bit more) and a ball and socket flange kit from Flowmaster. Now the exhaust tucks up out of the way really well and we were able to use the rear hangers. Had to cut ~3.5" out of the driver's side exhaust from above those as Ford, in their infinite wisdom, made the mid pipe slightly longer on that side than the passenger side for some reason. Will get some pictures and sound clips the next time he brings it over, ran out of time before I had to go to work today though. That said, we did throw it on my new set of Longacre scales to see how much it weighed and it's currently down to 3193 pounds.
Look for things to get more interesting and that IRS assembly to get put to use shortly after the first of December...


Did a little parts ordering a little while ago...:


Just need to get the sway bars ordered and wait for MM to get the rear shocks back in stock and the IRS will be ready to be tore down/upgraded and then installed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, made a bunch of progress on the IRS today. Got it completely disassembled and all the bolts in their own labelled little baggies, got the components set out on the floor to await their bushing swaps, and got the old subframe bushings removed and ready to sand and reinstall the new bushings. Also go the differential slightly cleaned up and got the new Ford Racing cover and lube locker gasket on. Hopefully get all the bushings changed out tomorrow and then I've got all week off the last week of the month to actually do the swap. We're going to leave everything disassembled until we can get the original axle out and get the holes drilled for the rear subframe mounts since it's so much easier to move around with everything out of it. Going to leave it on the cart and drop the car down on top of it with using my lift instead of trying to hold everything in place while we get it aligned. About to order swaybars, rebuilt calipers with pads and rotors, and maybe some hubs/bearings while I've got it apart depending on how much they cost lol... Anyway, enough typing; here's some pics:

New parts on the benches with tons of little baggies full of bolts:

Empty cradle:

No more factory rubber bushings here!:

All the different components hanging out on the floor:

Shiny, new Ford Racing diff cover with machining for use with the Maximum Motorsports solid diff mount:

Whole bunch of stuff we're not going to be using if anybody is interested lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't get as much done as I wanted to today, but did manage to get the new Cross axis joints in and finished up the install of the urethane subframe bushings. Pics:



All the stuff that comes in the cross axis kit below. Even comes with a new pair of snap ring pliers which work great for installing the new snap rings! Unfortunately though don't work worth a damn for removing the original ones though as they don't go narrow enough for the stockers and I had to use another pair for removal:


Ugly, worn out factory joints:

What they look like after removal:


What the new ones look like installed:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Snowed today and I didn't wind up wandering out to the shop today before work because I was too lazy to get more kerosene for the heater lol... Good news and bad news though. Bad news is that the MM2 rear IRS shocks from Maximum Motorsports won't be back in stock until "no later than 2/19/16." instead of the original 4-7 weeks from November 10th. The sway bars I ordered Monday also haven't shipped yet from American Muscle.

Good news is these showed up:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't made as much progress as I'd like, but I didn't manage to finish prepping the subframe/control arms and got the solid axle out of the car tonight before I called it quits. Here's some pics:

Upper arms after bearing removal. You've got to cut off a portion of the bushing shells to make room for the removal tool to seat properly which means being really careful not to cut too deep. The bushing picture wasn't even attached to the outer shell anymore before I started and you could rotate it completely without any real force.

Lower arms after bushing removal and cleanup:

MM gives you these little cups (left) and a small thick-ish washer with which to straighten/flatten the control arm mounting tabs with, which in theory is fine, but in practice tends to pull the center of the tab into the cup and makes it uneven. Instead, I used several of the large spacers that were used for pressing the old bushings out of the arms and subframe and used those to flatten the tabs. Works much better:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last time the car will ever have a solid rear axle is below. The top shock nut is already off is why it's hanging so low.


Anybody need a SRA with 3.73s and aftermarket lowers of some sort lol?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And here's where I stopped for the night. Bolted up the rear brackets and it was quickly apparent that the tank was going to have to come out so I can drill the vertical holes into the trunk. The problem with that is that my heater is a forced air kerosene unit and I'd like to not blow myself up when I pull the tank. So tomorrow, I'm going to wait until about noon and fire the heater up and get it to about 75 in there and then cut it off until I can get my holes drilled and get the plate welded into the trunk...

Driver's side:


Passenger side which is going to be the bigger problem:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IRS is in, just waiting on a couple things to show up before I can button everything up and take it to be aligned. The shocks will be here tomorrow and a brake line adapter will be here sometime between Thursday and Tuesday... Fun notes about the swap that I've learned that nobody tells you:

Turns out that the '94-'95s are still using SAE brake lines and the connection where the rear axle connects is using 3/8-24 instead of M10x1.0 like the '96+ cars do and the IRS does. Also turns out, that when you're not an idiot and put the rear brackets on the right side, that one of the fuel line hold downs are right in the way of the bracket and you have to knock the rivet off and do a little re-routing. When we laid everything out in the floor as it came off the car, we didn't look to see if the brackets were on the wrong side when we got it and since the side holes lined up I didn't think to check until I'd already drilled the holes and welded the plates in and then went to mock up the cradle lol... Wound up having to cut the welds on the plates and notch them to fit in the new locations after drilling the new holes.

Also learned that the MM end link kit only comes with the outer tapered studs and not a new inner bolt which went with the other end links that I sold to lwarior along with an OEM spacer the '03-'04s had lol... Bought a replacement bolt and will just run an extra MM spacer like the '99 and '01s do and that'll be fine. And one more note, the subframe assembly is designed to go in front straight below and when you have stuff in the way to stop that, like say subframe connecters or bent sheet metal from where someone tried to jack up the car in the wrong spot at some point, installing the subframe from the back and sliding it forward is a major pain in the posterior as the frame rail flares out a bit and the cradle is too narrow to come forward into the LCA opening. Speaking of the LCA opening, you'll need to drill that out with a 9/16" bit to get the 14mm front subframe bolts to fit that come with the MM kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some pictures:

Got the new front sway bar in:

Mocked up the brakes temporarily so I could start sorting out the lines:

Took the brackets from the MM rear stainless brake line kit and made them work on the '95 which doesn't have the bolt hole and notch they normally work with. Ignore the brake line routing in this picture (which also shoes the rear Eibach bar and MM endlinks), I just had it bent up out of the way in this one and forgot to take pictures after hooking everything up:

Wide angle shot of the IRS installed with a cameo from the solid rear mount:


That stupid fuel line bracket I mentioned above:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since taking the pictures, I've got the front diff mounts and thus the pinion angle set, got the ebrake cables hooked up (though I need to make a bracket to pull them in to avoid tire rub), finished hooking up the lines to the calipers/installed the MM braided lines, and drilled the holes for the top shock mounts. Should be able to get the mounts finished (have to make the center hole a little bigger per MM's instructions since it wasn't at least 1" already) and get the tie rod ends installed tomorrow morning and then hopefully the shocks get here tomorrow while I'm at work so I can get the coilovers assembled and installed and then all I'm waiting on is the brake line fitting and it'll be ready to fill with fluid and toss the driveshaft and exhaust back in so I can take it for it's maiden voyage to the alignment shop lol...


Got the shocks assembled other than the lower bushings/crush sleeves because I didn't feel like getting that stupid Prothane grease on my hands tonight. The circlips and spirolocks are a pain in the ass.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having to go back to work sucks, but I've made a lot of progress in the little time I've had since my vacation time ran out. IRS is finished except for torquing the half shaft nuts down, filling the diff with fluid, and tightening the jam nuts now that the end links were set to eliminate preload at ride height. Forgot to take a picture of the MM upper shock mounts, but I'll snap one tomorrow. Driveshaft is back in, pads/calipers are on and ebrake is hooked up, and the brakes are bled with no leaks to far. Also got the short shifter in and the interior put back together more or less. Going to throw the trunk stuff back in as well as the back seat tomorrow and scale it to see what the final weight difference was before I pull that back out for some more weight reduction. Also decided to modify the stock strut tower brace while I've got it here so it'll clear the MM caster/camber plates. Then it'll be alignment time and it'll be ready for it's maiden voyage with the new suspension. Anybody wanna buy a SRA? tongue3.gif Pics:

Fitting I needed to adapt the factory brake line to metric bubble flare:

Adapter in place in the stock location with the line ran to the distribution block above the differential:

Coilovers and tie rod ends on:



Ride height for now, may go lower in the future but he's wanting to put some 315s on in the near future so I'll probably leave it for now until I can see how much clearance there is:

Budget AM short throw:

Interior back together:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's been too cold to work on the car this week. I work swing shift and don't get up until 11-12 or so and have to leave for work by 2 so it would be a waste of kerosene to only have half an hour or forty five minutes to work by the time I got the shop warm. However, I should have it all buttoned up Sunday and ready for an alignment on Monday. In the mean time, I snapped a pic of one of the MM upper shock mounts while I was out there getting a tire pressure gauge and forgot to post it until now:



Finished up today (other than tweaking the strut tower brace and welding in one in the back that I got from American Muscle) and assuming it doesn't snow over night I'm going to take it and get it aligned tomorrow. Also scaled the car. For got to take a pic of the before, though it's stored in the scales, but it was 3193 with a 57.4/42.6 F/R split. Here's what it weighed with the interior back in the car and the swap complete:


And here's what it weighed after removing the trunk plastics and spare as well as the back seat:

So basically we're almost back to where we were before (only up 16 pounds), but with hell of a lot better suspension.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And that's all caught up to now.  Basically he bought an S2000 and has been daily-ing that and the Mustang has been put on hold for a bit while he went through life stuff.  He's supposed to be getting another set of wheels and tires soon (19s so they'll clear the future GT350 brakes) and then another set of NT01s to go on the current Cobra Rs.  Possibly also going ahead and going Cobra front brakes and getting the Cobra master cylinder swapped in while he saves up for a six-speed again and we'll go big on the brakes once the engine eventually gets swapped.  All in his court now, I'm playing with my LeMons car for now lol...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, RedTwilight said:

Great build so far and welcome to the site! 

I need to get back down your way to hit the Dragon up again.

Thanks, I need to get him motivated and back at it again; that thing needs a set of sticky tires BAD, it's still on the cheap All-Seasons that came off the parts car three years ago lol...


If you head this way, let me know and I'll try and get him out with the Mustang and I'll bring the Neon :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Musturd said:

Nice progress guess I should finally get around to installing my irs as well ?

It's definitely worth it, it's a night a day difference especially with the MM stuff in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed, poor just about every thread though; Photobucket really did a number on the Internet... :(  I managed to get my pictures saved before I deleted my account, I just have to get around to uploading them to Flickr again at some point and I'll go back and at least put in a before and after in here.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

SN95 Source ©

The premier SN95 Community

  • Create New...