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LWARRIOR1016

Rio Red 98 GT Build

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I also started back working on it a little bit. I finally built a throttle cable bracket and I built a bracket to mount my coolant tank. I’ve positioned the tank where I can use all stock hoses. I also got my heater hoses hooked up. Used stock hoses and a random 90 degree hose with a union and two gates powergrip hose clamps. More pictures to follow. 

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When I was working through the coolant hoses, I noticed I never connected the lower radiator hose, it pointed in the perfect spot, but it did not fit the radiator. The hose was too small. So I started searching and could not find any definitive information on what people are doing with the radiator hoses. I found one that fits. 

 

Radiator hose for 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0

It fit great. Had to trim a little off the thermostat side but it worked. It’s kind of close to the alternator pulley, but I think it might be ok. The engine is solid mounted so it won’t move at all. My only other concern would be the hose swelling but we will see. 

 

 

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Ok, so after the cooling system was complete it was basically down to tuning and shaking out any bugs that may have shown up. Got it running and driving, then took it to work. Had to fit a remote mount idle valve on it so I made an adapter plate that bolted to the front of the timing cover. 

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Got the a/c installed with the assistance of a helper and ended having to switch idle valves. The 4v idle valve wasn’t playing nice so I had to find one that was normally closed and closed all the way. Ended up with a 4 cylinder fox body idle valve on it. 

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After driving it for a very short period of time, I realized I did not like the bassani mufflers or the x pipe. So out it came, in favor of some flowmaster flow fx (copy of magnaflow) and a h pipe. Then pulled the gas tank and installed the sumped tank I had with an external fuel pump. Swapped the fuel rails and moved the regulator to the other side. 

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Got the fuel system finished and decided I did not like the automatic anymore. It felt good from a dead stop and probably would have been great at the track, but it felt really sluggish any other time. So out it came, and I got my old T45 back from Josef to swap back in. While I was at it, figured it was a good time to pull the engine and swap in the mustang intake cams. Also got a BMR k member kit while I was at it. Then got it all reassembled and installed a set of coil covers to top it off. 

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Now at this point, I was driving the crap out of it but noticed my afr was off and power seemed strange. So I got out the handy dandy laptop. Found out that the left bank was reading wrong. The commanded cam positions were not matching the actual cam positions. I swapped the cam sensors from bank to bank, no help. Swapped the phaser solenoids bank to bank and that didn’t help either. Knowing that the circuit for the cam phasers were added on and going through a secondary board and hearing some people burnt up the megasquirt board, I was pretty confident that I had an ecu issue. So I did the only reasonable thing, I ordered a Holley HP system. 

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ingenious idea on the idle valve.  never seen it remote mounted before like that.  you definitely got a lot of work on done on this thing.  looking really good!

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15 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

ingenious idea on the idle valve.  never seen it remote mounted before like that.  you definitely got a lot of work on done on this thing.  looking really good!

Thank you sir! I still have a bunch of catching up to do on the thread too. I even made some other changes to the idle valve setup. I’ll post those pictures as soon as I can. 

3 hours ago, White95 said:

Solid logic  😎

I know you approve. You’re the one that made me do it. 

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All the Holley stuff came in and I quickly got to work on it. I removed the relay box I had made previously. The box had relays for ecu, fan high and low, and a/c. Holley has the relay for the ecu built in to the harness, and I switched to a pwm fan controller so I didn’t need the fan relays anymore. Then moved the a/c relay inside behind the glove box. Other than that, it was as easy as laying the harnesses on the engine and plugging the connectors in. 

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So the small box mounted behind the glove box is the TiVct (cam) controller. It’s got nifty little led lights on it for quick diagnostics. #2 light goes green and everything is good. If #1 light goes red, there is an issue with the cams. They aren’t reaching the commanded position or something to that effect. 
 

Well, I got the Holley all installed and the car fired right up, ish. First time I tried to start it, I had forgotten to plug the #1 cam sensor in so it wouldn’t run. Figured that out and it fired right up. So I drove it around some and worked on the tune a little. But then I realized the afr on the left bank was reading richer than the afr on the right bank. Hmmmm. And the cam controller had a fault light on. Son of a bitch....the cam timing is off. 
 

So here we go, pulled the cam covers and front cover off. Then found what I expected, look closely at picture 2. The dark link for the driver side bank is 1 tooth off. So yeah, apparently when i timed it putting the mustang cams in, I was off a tooth. 

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So if anyone is keeping up with the story, I had cam issues with megasquirt so I bought the Holley. Installed the Holley and had cam issues. Soooo, the cam issue was me, not the ecu. So I didn’t need the ecu after all. Hell of an expensive mistake. So I retimed it, and wouldn’t you know the damn thing ran like a dream. Engine got smoother and made more power. So after that, I decided to take it to the track. Went 3 different times, first time on bald street tires, second time on drag radials, third time on slicks. Made 18 ish passes collectively. Steadily getting better times. Best time to date is 12.05 @ 115 with a 1.76 60’. This is with a 26” tire and shifting in to 4th, but not in 4th very long. I want to try a 28” tire and leave it in third. 

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I wanted a 28” tire for the street also, and needed new rear tires, so I replaced the bald falkens with a set of 285 Goodyear super car tires. I also put poly spring isolators in the rear to raise it up a little bit. 

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After this, I drove the car pretty much daily. The idle valve wasn’t really keeping up with airflow demand. So I made an adapter block to fit a LS stepper valve. So far this has proven to work really well and makes the idle really consistent. 

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Ran a hone through the cylinder quickly and inspected. Everything look just fine, so I grabbed a new piston and ring set from the local dealer and reassembled. Got it all put together with a new head gasket and did the head cooling mod on it to hopefully never have this issue again. Then drove it to work the next day, everything seemed good to go. 

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After that, I was driving home from work one day and wouldn’t you know it, the oil pressure gauge went to 0. Yay! Pulled over and listened to it, everything was still smooth and didn’t make any noise so I drove it home. Figured it was a sending unit failure so I ordered a new one. Then found out that on high rpm, solid mounted, or full race engines, autometer recommends remote mounting the oil pressure sender due to vibrations. So I made up a drained line and remote mounted the new sender and magically we had oil pressure again. 

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More daily driving after that, and then it was dyno day! Local dyno was doing a 3 pull special. My fueling was doing some corrections during the pull because I had made some changes to the map and hadn’t retuned yet. But the results were nice.  Now that pretty well brings us up to speed. 

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Went back out to the track last Sunday (31Jan21). First pass off the trailer was 11.92 @ 115 with a 1.72 60’. That was my best pass for the day because the tires were trash. They are old and worn out. Had new tires on order anyway. Going to a 28” tire from a 26”. 
 

The new tires came in yesterday (02Feb21). Went and got those mounted and am going to try again tonight. The weather should be good. Hoping to do a little better. 

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After this update, I installed bbk swap headers to replace the home made eBay 2v long tube contraption I had on there. Had the exhaust shop bend up a 3” h-pipe and hang a set of hooker max flow mufflers. They idle quiet and are mellow at cruise but they scream at wide open, and have no drone. I love the way it sounds now. 
 

i also swapped to an innovators west harmonic balancer. It made the engine noticeably smoother and looks bad ass. 
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And I had burnt up 4, yes 4, parts store replacement radiator fans. They’d work for a month and burn up. I ended up getting a fan and shroud from Delta PAG. It took a little while to get it but the work is top notch and the fan is flat out amazing. It’s a brushless fan that flows like crazy. Highly recommend them. 
 

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I also had been having a cam phaser issue for some time now. It would show up when it wanted to and then it would run perfect for a while. I got all new phasers and solenoids, and I went ahead and swapped to the gen 2 setup so I now have 70° Advance over the 50° that it had before. Also put on a ported intake for testing. 
 

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After the cam swap, when I started it up it ran like crap. Then came to learn the gen 2 coyote times different than the gen 1. So I tore it down and retimed. It still ran like crap. 
 

Had to get the wife out there to help me put it back together. 
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 I found out one of my 4 cams was for an f150. Apparently Gen 2 f150’s have a different firing order than the mustangs. I ordered a mustang cam but they sent the f150 cam. Just so happened @white95 had the cam I needed laying around, so I got that from him and fought back and forth with the dealer to get refunded for the wrong cam they sent. Got that squared away and went back to driving. It definitely pulled harder up top, before I could tell when it wanted me to shift, with this setup it went straight to the 7800 limiter and never let up. Tried to get to the track but it never worked out. I did make it one day but it rained and the track stayed wet. So it was just the daily grocery getter.

 

 

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I also discovered the phaser bolts on the gen 2 intake phasers are reverse thread. I broke every single bolt and nobody makes replacements so I had to order two more phasers because these brand new ones couldn’t go back together. FYI, the gen 1 had regular thread bolts. 
 

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Dont be like me lol. 

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This all happened between February and September 2021. I had roughly 3.5 months of military stuff I did in that time frame also. Spent a little over 2.5 months in California and then spent another month in Arizona a couple months later. Then decided to pull the engine for the build on 22DEC21. It’s getting a brand new gen 2 block, boss rods, and forged 12.5:1 compression pistons. I had to get my 3 year old to help me lol. 
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Found the input seal on the transmission was leaking and soaked my ram clutch in oil. Everything says I’m supposed to replace it but I’m going to run it and see what happens. 
 

Tore the trans down for a rebuild 

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Also ordered a billet 5-R shift fork and mod kit that takes the trans from a double disconnect system and makes it a single disconnect with a synchronizer for reverse. 
 

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Then today 09Jan22, I put some etch primer on the new engine block, timing cover, transmission, and intake manifold. Tomorrow I will be spraying the base coat/clear coat and then get ready for reassembly. So far, I’ve got everything I need for the trans, just need my crankshaft back from balancing at the matching shop and I’ll be ready to go. 

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2 minutes ago, ttocs said:

I was wondering where ya been the other day funny enough.

Oh man, I’ve been around. Staying busy at work and working in the little bit of time I get for the car. 
 

Hows your harness replacement going? 

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Assembled the piston/rod combo after picking up my crank from being balanced. 5BC67E23-902F-4FDF-989E-CA9C4B57F623.thumb.jpeg.020d92c08ef54f11f1acceffc9d3eafa.jpeg
 

continued cleaning everything. I took the oil pump apart to inspect and clean and found my boundary pump gears were chewed up. I don’t know what’s up with that because the bearings were all healthy. The gears are now shipped off to boundary to see if they will warranty them. 3B2251B9-AD38-4DF2-94BC-C1E59D04C1E7.thumb.jpeg.168c4885252f2c4e7bf35fb4cd4d848d.jpeg31AE81C8-A073-4CD7-A37A-970AA3F7E4A8.thumb.jpeg.174575f09550beaf0eb757697fcaf131.jpeg
 

After that, I checked the main bearing clearances and found all of them to be .0015” so I’m happy with that. Also filed the rings. Then assembled the short block. 2C4C7F0D-DDAA-4CBB-94EA-1E57239479F5.thumb.jpeg.2843b2e9c66e421ca599711cf2f10f29.jpeg526E0E22-6DAA-4FBC-BAF0-D805D1791A3C.thumb.jpeg.ab67252d2084b0a38dcd924b6c022736.jpegFF72457B-D145-4D2B-B036-FE93E02B5792.thumb.jpeg.91ccd81c1af17ab647886e86da1993ba.jpeg
 

Tomorrow I am going to clean up the heads and probably bolt them on tomorrow. I can do that and get the cams installed but I cannot time it until the oil pump gets sorted out. 

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