ThomasW's Two into One build

[ThomasW]

Bit more progress.

 

I 3D printed some hose clamps and separators.  Here is a pic of a few of the pieces:

 

 

 

Also got the lines at the hydroboost unit itself made up and connected:

 

 

 

here is the Return line “manifold”.  Its made up of a 180* fitting, 90* fitting, straight fitting and a Tee.  I also used one of my 3D printed clamps to mount the lower portion of the Tee to the strut tower.   This brings the rack return line and hydroboost return line into one line to return the fluid to the reservoir.    The reservoir was also bolted into place (the mount needs modified thought). 

 

 

 

A photo of the steering rack lines. The top line that isnt connected is the rack fluid return, the lower disconnected line goes to the powersteering pump. 

 

 

 

And here is a pic of the lines running through the wheel well.  There is still one line to be routed for the fluid feed to the power steering pump.  That one May be the only one routed through the engine bay though.  

 

 

 

 

 

[streetpilot]

Anything new? Excited about this build.

[ThomasW]

18 hours ago, streetpilot said:

Anything new? Excited about this build.

 

Only a little.  Life, money and mother nature are project blocking me...

[ThomasW]

Last week i painted the intake and gas tank straps:

 

 

 

 

 

i also dropped off the aluminum plates from the Steeda 4 bolt C/C plates, throttle body adapter and throttle cable bracket at the anodizer bc i was tired of those things looking nasty and corroded.   I got those items back today:

 

 

 

 

Then promptly installed them so i can get the car off jack standa when i come back home this weekend:

 

 

 

They look way nicer now, so i guess i better order some Zinc plated hardware to replace the cheap stuff Steeda includes that has already rusted and corroded.  

 

Im also debating on if i’m going to take the imrc delete plates, thermostat housing, 12AN radiator hose adapter plates and radiator cap adapter to get anodized black when i take the brake brackets.

 

 

 

[RedTwilight]

That copper weave carbon looks incredible in the sun!

[ThomasW]

Got the gas tank installed and hooked up.  The tank straps look pretty strapping under there. 

 

 

 

Also got the car off jack stands, so now i can move it around in prep to drop the motor in:

 

 

 

Also started rethinking my decision of it im going to install my spoiler lip or not.   After not looking at it for basically a year, i still like it.  I am just split on how i want to proceed. 

1. Refine the one in the photo and paint it body color

or

2. Make one in the reflective copper CF. 

 

Then the other decision is how to mount it:

1. Permanently (brings up issues of 3rd brake light removal in the future

or

2. Tape it or screw it...

 

Currently im leaning towards body color and mounting it with tape so i dont have to drill any holes in my decklid. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got this photo of the front end as well.  Im still debating on how to do the front splitter i made... sometimes i think a wrinkle black finish would go well with CF side splitters (whenever i get around to making thise) and that would save me a ton of time in body work.  Other times, i think body color would be best. 

 

So many decisions.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[streetpilot]

That front shot has a menacing look to it. Nice collection.

[ThomasW]

5 hours ago, streetpilot said:

That front shot has a menacing look to it. Nice collection.

 

I agree, the shade over the car and the bug net kinda make it look a little evil. 

[ThomasW]

I pulled the front cover and valve covers off the engine so i could delete the VCT solenoids and repaint the valve covers:

 

 

 

I then turned some parts on the Lathe to fill in the valve cover solenoid and one of the pcv breather holes.   Once i had those done and installed, i drilled and tappes the covers for some -8AN orb fittings for the crankcase breather plumbing later on:

 

 

 

 

 

I then cleaned and removed all the loose paint and painted the covers with VHT’s wrinkle black paint:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The engine wiring harness was then layed out on a table so i could start prepping it to be opened, tucked and modified for a cleaner install on the 3v. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I then separates the ignition coil and injector wiring so i could tuck them under the fuel rail.   I also replaced the stock injector connectors with Ev6 injector connectors by crimping on new pins.  The FRPS sensor wiring was shortened and re-routed to the rear passenger side.   

  All of the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor (its being rerouted to the passenger side), AC compressor, TPS, IAC and IAT sensors are getting routed below the intake.  The only sensor wiring that will be routed along the front of the motor will be the oil pressure sender, camshaft, crankshaft and AC compressor.  The engine harness ground, coolant temp and ignition noise supressors will also be under the intake.  

 

Here are a few photos of the progress on that.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ThomasW]

Well i got the engine and trans installed today.  I’ll finish up the wire tuck with it all in the car since it’ll help keep things organized as an installation package. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

my machinist buddy also sent me a photo of one of my brake brackets in “process” of getting machined.  I am really excited to get these since they are the last item needed for the brakes. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ThomasW]

Finished up a some more of the wire tuck.  I need to lengthen the TPS wiring, but its essentially done:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ThomasW]

Got the TPS wires extended and then used some vulcanizing tape to attach some christmas tree tabs onto the main connector bundle along the firewall.  

 

Now once i figure out how to get the IAC mounted nicely i can do the last wire. 

 

 

[ThomasW]

The prototype Brake Brackets arrived today. 2 small changes and they are good to go.  So i started installing those and got the driver side done. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also got the throttle body and accel ignition coils cleaned and painted.  The clutch cable was also wrappes in techflex so it woukd blend in:

 

 

 

 

The radiator brackets were painted with wrinkle black and the radiator installed.  Yes i plan to clean and paint the radiator fan as well. 

 

 

 

 

Here is a view down the engine valley showing the engine coolant temp sensor T’d into one of the heater core lines instead of it being in the Radiator hose Y block.  Im still waiting on some -12AN fittings to arrive so i can finish the plumbing of this. 

 

 

[ThomasW]

Now that upgrade training at work is completed, i can get back to doing some fun stuff.  Until i get the heater for the garage though, im limited on what im willing to do, so i only spend a few hours down there at a time at most. 

 

Anyways, i figured i would get some partially completely tasks done. 

 

First up was getting the the AN hydroboost lines hooked up to the power steering pump.   Since Ford power steering pumps are kind of hit or miss on reliability, i elected to make an hose barb to AN adapter for the inlet so its easier to replace the pump if/when needed:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also got the fuel line made up.   I used a 5/16” quick connect to 6am adapter (its labeled as a chevy LS part) to convert the factor steel line to AN.  I also found a 6AN female/male adapter that had a 1/8” NPT port in the middle for a fuel pressure gauge, i bought that and installed the autometer electric Fuel pressure sending unit in that.   The fuel rail adapter is a aeromotive part (1/2” i think) hopefully it doesnt leak, ive seen some reports of them not sealing properly... if it doesnt, i’ll just pull the fuel rail and have a place weld a steel 6AN male adapter to the factory rail. 

 

 

 

 

 

I also finished the heater core hose adapter setup that mounts the factory water temp sender under the intake and converts it over to 12AN to adapt to the MMR coolant crossover AN conversion adapter plates:

 

 

 

 

Then i decided to start making decisions on how to do the upper radiator hoses.

 

currently i have the MMR 1 1/2” barb to dual -12AN Y block with the radiator fill cap on it and a Moroso inline thermostat housing.   It works, but its kind of ugly. 

 

Originally, i had planned to get the On3 coolant crossover delete for a 4V and use their thermostat housing, but they wont answer emails about buying the housing separately and i would still have to put a radiator fill cap someplace.   Those things with 12AN male fittings run $90-150, so not exactly the cheapest option.  The on3 thermostat housing would likely be in the way of the CAI and future turbo plumbing anyways, so i have essentially ruled that out. 

 

The third option, was to buy a 96-04 3 core v6 aluminum radiator, but those are proving nearly impossible to find and the price is still pretty steep.  

 

Option 4 is basically the same as above, except a 94-95 v8 radiator with 12an bungs welded on. Easier to find, but the mounts are different and still not cheap.  

 

Option 5, which is likely what i’ll use..

 

Keep the current setup, get both the Y block and thermostat housing parts anodized black and purchase some 3ply Silicon parts to make up the upper radiator hose.  Then i’ll make up some sort of bracket to hold it in place above the cooling fan and the eventual CF core support cover im planning on will be extra wide along the top to cover all of the radiator hose.  

 

Here’s a photo showing a mock up:

 

 

 

 

 

i also picked up a Lokar midnight series flexible dipstick.  It fits horrible as delivered in the “correct length”.  The braided AN tube was 5” to long and there was no way it would ever fit into the engine block following the factork dipstick tube routing without shortening it and/or disassembling it and putting the engine block piece in first...  but, it works after shortening and doesnt stand out like the yellow handle. LoL.  Its a good thing the fuse box is out of the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

I also picked up the Redline Tuning quicklift Plus hood struts and installed those.  No pictures on that yet though.  

[ThomasW]

So this talk of a front mount CAI got me thinking.   Its actually very possible and will only need the notch of the inner liner of the hood and no mods to the header panel or core support. 

 

Im pretty certain this will be how i go, its just to unique (ive never seen it on a mustang) to not.  I can also makup a CF panel to fill in the notch on the hood to eliminate the need to body fill and repaint it (or i may just paint it anyways.  Lol

 

Anyways, here’s some photos, let me know what you guys think.  Btw, the 45* coupler would be replaced by a 90* one.  Or if i get feeling really ambitious (doubtful) i’d 3D print a curve piece and make one out of CF.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ThomasW]

drew up the hood liner where i need to notch it for the front mount CAI, notched it slightly oversize for the silicone connector, then took that drawing to make up a mold and cut template that can be 3D printed on my large printer.  Once the couplers arrive and i verify fit in the 3D printed parts (im printing one of them right now) i’ll notch the hood and prep the 3D printed mold for a part layup that’ll be done with the remainder of the composite stuff i have to finish for other people:

 

 

 

 

 

[Prokiller]

this is going to be cool.   you never see this on a mustang let alone an SN.

[ThomasW]

I didnt like the look and fit of the 90* silicone coupler and had concerns on being able to fit a T bolt clamp as well, ao i elected to go with something different. 

 

I drew up a 105* elbow to better work with the dimension i needed and 3D printed it with a pair of sleeves to slip into the current CF cai pipes:

 

 

 

then mocked it all in place:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

with that done, once it warms up i’ll do some body work to smooth it all out and them mold the elbow, then make one in carbon fiber.  

 

 

I also took a little time the other day to makeup the vacuum block mount:

 

 

 

then i installed the vacuum block under the intake using one of the knock sensor bolt holes.  I also heated and reformed the factory plastic vacuum linea and hooked up all of the vacuum lines for the fuel rail sensor, hvac box and boost gauge. 

 

 

 

 

 

I picked up a flexible stainless steel universal radiator hose off ebay a few weeks back.  It was only $20 ans looked better than one of the universal rubber radiator hoses, so i figure what the hell and picked one up.  I installed that as well while i was rolling around under the car installing the exhaust:

 

 

 

 

The only items left for the engine/drivetrain install is the Cai, driveshaft shortening, upper radiator hoses and the maf/iat wiring extension.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 17, 2019 by ThomasW

[Stingracer]

This build is looking terrific.  Lot's of great ideas with the details.

[ThomasW]

Small change in plans on how im going to do the CAI tube.  Instead of molding the printed elbow to make up a CF elbow and bonding it to some CF tube i already have, i have changed the shape of the entire CAI tubing to eliminate the CF tube i have.  

  What im decided to do is 3D print the entire cold air intake and then just skin it in CF.   The more i thought of it, the more i didnt want to invest the time and $$$ into a mold for a single part.  I also was second guessing on how well a CF cold side plumbing would last to boost.  At low boost levels, it would likely be fine at a 3/32-1/8” wall thickness, but at higher levels if i ever build the bottom end... who knows.  So i’ll likely go to a conventional steel/aluminum cold side when the time comes. 

 

So i drew up a oval TB to 3 1/2” round adapter that also takes into account the 2” offset from the centerline if the car and the centerline of the throttle body.  It then goes into the 95* elbow, straight down the car, then the maf sensor and filter goes directly under the header panel.  

  Unfortunately i dropped my maf sensor, so now is the time to decide if im going to just go with a stock replacement or convert over to a slot style. 

 

 

original idea: 

i didnt like how the tb tube and elbow were angled with this setup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Version 2 with the oval TB to round tube piece that accounts for the 2” offset:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Intake elbow and aligning with the future hood Notch:

 

 

 

 

 

 

air filter location:

 

 

 

 

 

[ThomasW]

Havent done much due to a lack of motivation.   But i have done some wire extensions and rewrapping with techflex of the cooling fan, ac pressure switch and the IAC.  That essentially finishes all but one of the wiring items (Maf/iat conversion to slot style).  No pictures though. 

 

I cut the notch out of the hood for the CAI and even with all my measuring, a 3 1/2” round tube wont allow the hood to close completely. So, im going to change the cai tube to be full oval from the throttle body past the 100* bend where it goes over the core support.   This should give me the clearance i need... still no photos yet though. 

 

The brakes are all bled and working (may have mentioned thay already?) and all of the engine accessories/pullies have been cleaned, painted and reinstalled as well as the belt.  The AC compressor im going to replace later on, so it got ignored. 

 

I also printed up the shifter boot bushing pieces ao the boot fits over the shifter handle like the stock setup.... but i have lost my shift knob.

 

 

I also ordered some matte orange/tangerine/sunset material and did a poor job of vinyl wrapping the radio bezel.  This stuff was CHEAP (like $7 for 12”x36”) and doesnt stick for crap, so im using it to determine if i like the look of the body color radio bezel.  I typically dont like stuff like this, but i think the shifter and radio bezel painted body color will add some excitement and break up the monotiny of dark charcoal. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also finally got around to getting some TPU filament (flexible polyurethane) for my 3D printer.  I have always despised my upr coilover setup bc the sleeves fit like shit with an 1/8” difference between the strut tube outer diameter and the coilover sleeve inner diameter.  So i pulled up solidworks, drew some spacers and printed them out of the TPU filament.  They were a firm press fit that was able to be accomplished by hand onto the strut and then using a mini prybar to press them into the coilover sleeve. 

 

They seem like they will work great as there is Zero slop now. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited February 23, 2019 by ThomasW

[White95]

All discussion of the custom brake calipers has been moved to @ThomasW vendor section and can be found in this thread:

 

 

[ThomasW]

On my few days off i got the driveshaft installed, fluids put in and the car running/driving.  I was also able to get the clutch fork cover that was missing installed. New front/rear speakers (Cerwin Vega 6x8’s) , a -10AN crankcase breather tank and lines installed (i stuck if behind the passenger tire under the fender) and got the front mount cold air intake done and the slot style MAF conversion done.   I also made up a reflective CF panel to use for my center caps. 

 

 

 

[LWARRIOR1016]

Oh man. That intake is so awesome! I love it. Fantastic work, as always. I’d really like to see a video of this thing running. 

 

I have a couple questions for you, when are you planning to finish up the paint on the car? 

 

Also, your iac, what model iac is it? It looks like a 4v iac. Is it mounted to anything or is it just supported by the hoses? 

[ThomasW]

8 hours ago, LWARRIOR1016 said:

Oh man. That intake is so awesome! I love it. Fantastic work, as always. I’d really like to see a video of this thing running. 

 

I have a couple questions for you, when are you planning to finish up the paint on the car? 

 

Also, your iac, what model iac is it? It looks like a 4v iac. Is it mounted to anything or is it just supported by the hoses? 

Thanks man!

 

ive got 10 days of vacation coming in May, so now that it is getting warmer, as long as the weather cooperates, hopefully it’ll get painted then. 

 

 

As for the IaC, its just a 2v one (as far as i know) mounted to an accufab remote IAC plate which is all supported by the hoses.  

[ThomasW]

A little bit of progress.

 

the Ps pump has been screaming ever since getting it running, even after bleeding the hydroboost system.   My thought was that the 6AN fees line may of been to small to provide enough fluid volume.  I replaced that with a 10AN line and its significantly quieter now.  

 

 

I also printed up a filler panel for the hood notch and bonded that to the inside surface of the hood with some flexible body panel adhesive from 3M.   Now i can finish sand the edges and do some body work and get it painted. 

 

I also made up a CF veneer panel to make up some rear bumper reflector panels.  This was a hand cut one, eventually i’ll get the cad file made up so i can CNC them on the router.  I may do some custom lettering or something to... 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

 

 

I got the ebay Led’s for the AC panel and license plate light as well as new license plate lenses and some random hardware from LMR. 

 

 

The splitter lip i made also had the M5 rivnuts drilled and popped in place and bolted to the front bumper.   

[White95]

Cool. Progress is good!

[ThomasW]

1 hour ago, White95 said:

Cool. Progress is good!

 

Little by little.

 

 

still no clue what to do about the spoiler lip.   Permanently bonded, smoothed into the car and body color.  Or removable and Carbon Fiber.

 

🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤤🤤

[RedTwilight]

12 hours ago, ThomasW said:

 

Little by little.

 

 

still no clue what to do about the spoiler lip.   Permanently bonded, smoothed into the car and body color.  Or removable and Carbon Fiber.

 

🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤤🤤

 

If you have other carbon fiber pieces on the exterior / under hood / interior; then it might tie things in together more to have it as removable in the Carbon Fiber finish.   It will also depend on exactly how much carbon you have exposed on the rest of the exterior so that it doesn't look out of place.

[ThomasW]

1 hour ago, RedTwilight said:

 

If you have other carbon fiber pieces on the exterior / under hood / interior; then it might tie things in together more to have it as removable in the Carbon Fiber finish.   It will also depend on exactly how much carbon you have exposed on the rest of the exterior so that it doesn't look out of place.

 

The only exposed CF currently will be the cowl panel and some center caps once i get them done.

 

eventually i will likely do side splitters.  Im planning on a diffuser but am unsure if im just going to buy one, of make one.   Either way, its not a priority currently, so not something im worried about. 

 

 

Everything in grey primer would be CF. 

[RedTwilight]

17 hours ago, ThomasW said:

 

The only exposed CF currently will be the cowl panel and some center caps once i get them done.

 

eventually i will likely do side splitters.  Im planning on a diffuser but am unsure if im just going to buy one, of make one.   Either way, its not a priority currently, so not something im worried about. 

 

 

Everything in grey primer would be CF. 

 

It's not too much there that it would look too out of place once you do the side splitters and rear diffuser.  So it wouldn't really look out of place and the CF is a nice contrast to that AWESOME color.

Are you planning to cover the chin spoiler in carbon also?  If so then that and the rest will really help things out. 

 

You'd also wouldn't be covering up all your work in carbon with paint.  That way it's sort of like free advertising if you plan to sell a few.  

 

On the other hand if painted, it is a low key design that will blend in well with the rest of the car once painted.  Which would give things an overall "smoother" feel while the carbon would probably be more a "race inspired" look.

Edited April 11, 2019 by RedTwilight

[ThomasW]

3 hours ago, RedTwilight said:

 

It's not too much there that it would look too out of place once you do the side splitters and rear diffuser.  So it wouldn't really look out of place and the CF is a nice contrast to that AWESOME color.

Are you planning to cover the chin spoiler in carbon also?  If so then that and the rest will really help things out. 

 

You'd also wouldn't be covering up all your work in carbon with paint.  That way it's sort of like free advertising if you plan to sell a few.  

 

On the other hand if painted, it is a low key design that will blend in well with the rest of the car once painted.  Which would give things an overall "smoother" feel while the carbon would probably be more a "race inspired" look.

 

Ive probly sold as many of these lips as im going to.   With my limited time at home, i have zero interest in doing anything for anyone else.   Ive even posted a few of the molds i have for sale just to get them out of my way.

 

i dont plan to do the splitter lip in CF.  Its too complex of a shape (sharp corners) and i dont expect it to last long due to how the roads are local to me.

  I’ll probly end up replacing it with a carters custom race splitter (that i’ll probly narrow in total width on the front side).

 

but, like all things, that may change and i may just end up making an entirely new splitter for myself from CF since i have everything i need.  Lol

[ThomasW]

Just some pictures from today...

Edited April 14, 2019 by ThomasW

[ThomasW]

[ThomasW]

Hood notch is done.  Terminator rear bumper is painted and the center caps are done.  Now i have to go back to work. 

 

 

 

Edited April 16, 2019 by ThomasW

[White95]

Really dig the center caps!

[ThomasW]

On 4/16/2019 at 10:28 PM, White95 said:

Really dig the center caps!

 

Definitely adds to the originality of the car.  Haha

[Frank.JD.Perez]

Thats a pretty cool design 👀

[ThomasW]

5 hours ago, Frank.JD.Perez said:

Thats a pretty cool design 👀

Haha.  Yea the Designer did a pretty good job with it.

[ThomasW]

Not alot going on lately, but i have made some progress....

 

I have the entire car wet-sanded and the paint ordered, so i should get this thing in color during my vacation.

 

I also made up the center section of my spoiler lip and a CF panel blank for reflector delete plates and a CD player delete.  

 

 

I also had to extend the CAI filter to somewhere not infront of the radiator.  Anytime the cooling fan would come on, it would screw with the MAF sensor.  You can see in the graph the difference.  The orange circled area’s are with the fan off