Rolocut

Lol yeah it's a rare wing, that's how it came. I had two but I sold it for 500 in 45 min of being listed, kid just listed it for sale again

Yes that's what I did.

As requested by Tony i blew off the dust this log in, and then sneezed a lot, but after that I managed to get some pictures uoloaded while at work.

I completely agree with you on the actual fr500s loooking hot. Problem is, I drive my car, and idk if a 275 mickey will hook up. Guess theres one way to find out. These wheels are kind of just like my spares. I just have the enkeis from the red car. They will go on, for how long... yeah prob more then 6 months. Kind of one of those been there done that thing. I dont hate bags, but for the money and time i will just stick with coilovers for this car. Just want it to be done, then the quest for 10s on 18s will be happening in the spring.

I like the enkeis too, but its one of those things like ive already done it, kind of on to the next type of thing but they will get the nod for a little white. I however do not like bryans wheels, I feel a wheel needs to be bright expecially on a black car to get some contrast. Too many times do i see cars all blacked out looking cheap rather then classy. A white or yellow car would look best with bryans wheels. I also am not mini tubbing another car after doing the drag car. Kind of sucked and with how big of a tire i could fit with how hard i drive it. I wouldnt want to pay anymore then i already do for tires lol. 327 a piece is enough when you go through two sets a year. Not sure why team z would want a manual rack autocross car. Also i used to have a 03/04 rack but it got broken in my accident, ended up just using it as a core at autozone for a new stock replacement lol

Yeah i still cant believe team z. Everything on the car is from them. Just didnt like that. I actually had to cut the back of both ears on the top of the massive mounting pad for the motor mount. And needed to dent the header tube for the steering shaft and thats just on the bbk ones. The Kooks i could get drivers side in but would need to mod a tube but the passenger side not even one tube would sit flush on an exhaust port. So it was either spend 600 on materials and make my own headers or just spend 600 and bolt in the bbk ones and be done. Wheels... thats interesting. I have me enkeis still, i have these real fr500s that are near perfect on the car now. And or I may be calling True Forged to get a custom set up made in the spring. I need the car together so Steve and I can came up with a photo shop system. Almost thinking about some gold hardware or gold faces. thats 4-6 months out though.

Yeah, i had too, didnt want that line or crease there anywhere nor the option for it to vibrate and crack

Not really, whats the interest?

Moroso 3v tank that i had to modify to fit my set up

Actually these did not take too long. Its the copper nickel line that does not kink when you bend it and its really soft. About double the price of regular brake line avail right at autozone. here is where i mounted the stock portioning valve. Same truck and spoiler from red car. Rare early 94 larry shinoda spoiler. bondo glass under the bottom and top and smooth.

So, as many, or a few of you know, I have lost the Red car due to a freak accident back in may. Luckily/smart me, i insured the hell out of it. So I was a wanting to by a 96/97 cobra to do a quick truck motor coyote swap just for fun all winter, money was being put away to accompliush this. Needed to be black or white and clean and keep the red car as the killer. Well after the accident. I bought a 97 White Cobra Vert with a saleen kit. Nice car, I actually really enjoy convertibles after having one. The car needed a head gasket. Knowing i was going to buy another sn coupe to do a coyote build on, i knew i had a motor i could just swap over. So i bought one of my buddies 96 cobra coupes with 81k. Black So it didnt take long to Gut everything. Did my go to wolfe through floors and moly 6 point roll bar Ended up doing something different this time, Decided to paint the roll bar tubes out of the car, tape off the weld points and tig it all up in the car then just brush paint that area where the joints are. Ended up still coming out kind of like crap where i brushed it on. So i cant cut the floor without painting the whole bottom of the car. The crappy i phone doesnt do the paint justice because it cannot focus on black. Started sanding with 80 then down to 250 to prep it. A full wipe down, then 3 coats of UA. A few little things here that i didnt take pictures of that i did. I ended up cutting a boxing the rail to use stock evap lines, fuel lines and rear brake lines where it crosses over the through floor. The frame was crushed up pretty far on the drivers side so i ended up notching the through floor and pushing it up to grab fully. So, now on to the fun part, The engine bay. I did the typical scott rod panels and frame covers. The crazy stuff was when i cut the pinch weld off the firewall and smoothed the throttle cable hole. Smoothing the pinch weld was a pain in the ass. 3 layers of metal that get further apart as you cut them back more. So thin that you just burn through on the lowest setting. Cardboard and seam sealer lighting on fire under the dash and making it hard to weld to. good times. So these are not in order, but i used black primer, i think theres only one pic, (flat black). Then single stage UA, that came out pretty orange peeled but i did heavy so i could wet sand and put clear over the single stage for super gloss. Well now that the car is fully apart, time to put this pig together Gas tank and rear end. Went with team z lower control am relocation brackets so the control arms are facing the right way. Cut off the quad shock brackets, Welded tubes, Eaton 31 spline, moser axles, 4.30's, Team z upper and lower control arms, Baer Rear two piece rotors On to the motor, This is an abbreviated very funny thing, but i cant explain it because i dont want it posted on the web. But i bought a 13 truck motor for the car with 8k miles from a junk yard. Ended up getting a 14 coyote motor with 28k from a buddy with a ported CJ manifold, Rev auto 5" cold air, Monoblade, CCS3 cams, Trick flow springs, TSS oil pump, CJ tensioners from him for this car. I added an ati balancer to top it off. This motor made 501 wheel tuned by rev auto in his MT82 14. Actually ended up putting this motor in my brothers car for mustang week since his sleeved block wasnt back yet. Smoothed the Cobra jet maniold, painted coil covers and cam covers. Added aero rails, I have yet to see a cleaner nicer looking coyote motor in a coyote or not. Used the Power by the hour kit, easy to install. Worst part was grinding down timing cover, needed to take alternator off twice to make sure it was down enough. Time for suspension and brake lines before motor goes in Went with a team z road race k member and a-arm set up. Kind of turned into a pain in the ass. The kooks headers were not even close to fitting with the k member braces. Also team z moves the steering rack up an inch to correct for bump steer, well the rack hit the swap pan pretty hard with normal rack mounts. Offset rack mounts and a hammer to the oil pan fixed this issue but it was not something i expected. So i ended up going with bbk headers which i was totally against and i had to dent a tube on drivers side for the max motorsports shaft to clear it. I think it still rubs just ever so slightly. Also kooks headers do not allow for the use of ac and i just was not having that. I still may go buy american racing headers and try them out once its all done just for piece of mind but i need to sell my kooks 1 7/8 first. motor in Car ended up getting a twin disk and a built up t56 So i decided to tuck all the hydrboost lines also decided to tuck the fuel regulator and heater core lines. I cut, welded and shortened the stock heater tubes to route the tubes under the intake manifold. of course i needed to mod the degas bottle Little custom rad mount there is a lot more but i could only take so many pics off facebook not in order before my head started spinning A little export and rear bumper and smoothed trunk lid porn before i go I am getting the Centers of the FX1 pro seats covered in the same red leather the match the rear. Not sure what wheels I am going to run yet. Here a few more motor pics as of yesterday, all plumed up minus ac and vacuum hose taken with a better camera Nikon S8100 over my iphone 6. Few interior shots too. Just a little fr500 steering wheel. Was New in box but i had to install it rather then pay more for a used one then I paid for this one ($330)

There are many things that affect spool such as cross over pipe size, Compression, Cam, Length of inter cooler piping, length of exhaust piping. Personally a 2 inch cross over to a 2.5 inch t6 divided flange on 6-8 lbs should make boost around 3600-3800. the Divided flange can be used to effectively make the exhaust housing smaller just by making the flange like that. And it is a show car, so this turbo will look very cool under the hood. With such low compression and a built motor I would run 8-10lbs to start, Will be a lot of fun, Then once Bryan smartens up and puts a full manual valve body auto in it with a 36-4k stall with a brake, the car will be more fun to drive and pick up 2 seconds in the 1/4

I would totally throw an exhaust on this pig

So, yes i did have extra insurance on this car, Had 25k in accessory coverage plus the price of the car. Ill mess with the cable in a week or so. When i pull the car all apart. I still cannot pull the cable forward to close the throttle body. Not sure what happened, cable was fine for over 3 years

Its pretty bad, Pics are not close up. Front fender is completely crushed and balled up into the door, fire wall is bent and twisted, floor boards and trans tunnel compressed about 5 inches, k member is mangled along with motor mounts a-arm and strut, rear end is bent, luckily the through floor frame connectors and 6 point moly roll bar prob helped save me from having issues.