MaximumRisk

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/whycalibrate.php

another vote for Innovate! It is very accurate (compared to my tuner's dyno AFR readings). Like mentioned by @The Mk2 the free air calibration is a very nice feature. The gauge is very slim which was a plus for me. The downside is cost and that it is a little more difficult to install than others I have seen.

They beauty of a proper fitting-fully complete- well engineered kit! Very very nice. Fits like a glove

Congratulations!! well deserved!!

If I were you I would tighten those clearances. Go after the problem, especially since both options would cost you about the same (but only one is a sure solution). I mean, the motor is already out. If you do the pan and pump instead and it does not work then you have to pull the motor out again to do the bearings.

I am no expert engine builder but that sounds like a big drop in oil pressure on just main and rod bearing clearance. Is this motor a pushrod motor? There is a plug towards the back of the lifter valley that I have seen a few people forget, I am assuming you guys checked for it, but would you like to double check? :-D. It sits under the lower intake, around the area where the pcv valve opening is but on the block side ofcourse. also what grade oil were you using? Did you try a thicker grade to see if the pressure picked up?

@Det_Riot. I do run a 7 quart pan (I also have an oil cooler and a remote mounted oil filter, every oil change i use almost 9 quarts) and a standard volume oil pump with no problems 6800 rpm red line @Det_Riot. I do run a 7 quart pan (I also have an oil cooler and a remote mounted oil filter, every oil change i use almost 9 quarts) and a standard volume oil pump with no problems 6800 rpm red line

Personally I dont think you need either. A standard volume/pressure oil pump is sufficient. If your budget allows for a 7qt pan then do that (cant go wrong with extra oil capacity) but do you need it? My opinion is no, you do not need it.

thanks everyone. The work very well!! I went out and did a few back to back to back to back to back pulls on the highway then came back home thru the local streets (traffic), got home opened the hood and I could lay my hand on top of the intake ( I sure as hell could not do that before)!! but not only does it work when running, when i stop at a light I can see the heat just raising out of every vent! I am glad I did this and my engine components (especially my alternator) thank me as well!! LOL!

sorry it took this long to update, LOL! but I had halted the paint paint process because I was thinking of painting the whole car, but then decided to hold that project until spring, Anyways here are a few quick pics. I will try to get better pics over the weekend, as I still have to properly line up the hood and polish the painted are of the hood.

I vented a Cobra R hood a few years ago to kind of make it look like an 03 cobra hood, but with the added hood clearance LOL! and it worked very well at venting heat. Eventually I changed things and wanted to go to a lower (height wise) cowl hood. Here is a pic of what it looked like as for this current project, I was not able to go to see the hood yesterday because I had to work really late yesterday, but I will make sure to update the thread as soon as I get pics

exactly!

As of now water would enter the engine. I may come up with something to catch and divert the water later on if I feel it'd be needed, but I do not to drive the car when it rains anyways (though, I have been caught in the rain a few times :-)

Thanks guys. He told me that the hood should be ready by Tuesday. I'll let you know

^^^ you're right! LOL! He is pretty good at what he does