SIIaCanuck

This morning on the way to work I ran into an odd idle issue. I pulled off the highway after cruising for an hour+ and arrived at some lights. As I downshifted (5 spd) I noticed that the rpm wasn't dropping between shifts but hanging up around 2000rpm. When I stopped at the lights, it sat at 2000rpm for a few seconds then slowly decayed to 1600. I blipped the throttle and it dropped back to about 1400 and then slowly settled to about 1250 by the time the lights changed (couple of minutes, it's a busy overpass with a long light delay). It continued to repeat at each stop/corner to work (another 4 stops). Once in the parking lot, I let it settle to 1400ish then cut the engine and immediately restarted. It started completely normally and settled to a normal idle with no issues. Any thoughts on what might be happening? Am I looking at something failing (sensor)? It's a stock (engine) '95 GT with about 175,000km on the clock (110,000mi). I'm running a 3.9 rear end with a stock T-5 and a DM SpeedCal to correct the speedo. I cruise at about 2350rpm on the highway at around 110 kph (70mph). Stew

My '66 is just a project at the moment. 289 V8, fuel injection, T-5, 8.8" rear end (suspension undecided yet), convertible rocker panels, seat pans, and torque boxes, full length sub-frame connectors full length seam welded to floor pan. Tubular coil-over front end. Details will probably vary as I go along. As I've got a '69 Land Rover, a motorcycle and two little kids, it's a long term slow-burn restomod.

This is a great post for a new-to-SN95 guy. I'm an engineer and I've build a couple of semi-spaceframe cars so I'll just add my initial observations. The factory K-member is 'beefy' but that doesn't mean 'strong' or 'rigid' or 'good geometry', it just means heavy. The Griggs, MM and Kenny Brown tubular K-members are the only ones with triangulation to transfer longitudinal loading (fore/aft) from the lower suspension mounts into the chassis using pure compression/tension loading on a tube. The rest rely on bending strength of the tubes, the least efficient structural loading for a round tube. MM and Kenny Brown's look very similar in load path structure but MM's has more reinforcement gusseting. Perhaps not necessary but it's probably the strongest/stiffest of the three. The Griggs uses slightly different triangulation to carry the same loads and it'll probably be the lightest as a result (one less tube on each side). They've proven it on the track so it can probably take a pounding and come away smiling. All the rest look lighter than stock but would flex more under hard braking (without additional bracing of some kind). The Steeda is more sheet metal than tubing, perhaps stronger/stiffer than stock but I'd imagine it's the heaviest of the bunch and not necessarily as strong or as stiff as the Griggs/MM/KB trio. Of course, that's not taking into account metallurgy, welding quality or tubing diameter/wall thickness. Those factors will also come into play. Personally, for a street & road race car, I'd probably go with the MM brace. It looks the closest to how I'd design a K-member if I had to clean sheet it. All I need to do is find a car! (I've only got a '66 at the moment)

Hello all, My name is Stew Staudinger and I'm a reserve military pilot, bison rancher, husband and father of two great little girls. I've got a '69 Series IIa Land Rover restomod, hence the profile name. I also ride a modified VFR750 road/track bike and have a '66 Mustang coupe restomod project on the slow burner. I'm an Aeronautical Engineer by education and spent 20 years in the Royal Air Force as a helicopter pilot. I'm now in the Royal Canadian Air Force Air Reserves and fly part-time. I'd probably still be a regular officer if I was single but a young family and a family business drew me out of visiting the world's deserts as a full time occupation. I'm here because I'm likely to be travelling a fair distance twice a month (career change/addition) soon and would like an SN95 5.0L GT. I have always wanted a later model Mustang so I'm shopping for a lowish mileage '94/'95 GT to adopt. As an engineer I need a project and if I'm away 10 days a month, I'll need something to occupy my off-duty time so chassis mods, torque arm rear suspension and a tubular K-member etc would keep me fiddling for a while. I also have ported GT40p heads and a Cobra intake waiting for a new home.