reivaxtorres

Haha, thank you sir

Where did you get the new boot? Mine is trash and wouldn't mind a new one

Sadly I agree. I ended up keeping the speed cal I bought simply because I had already spent the money on it, but it really sucked trying to get it to work right. None of the settings they gave me worked right, and when I called they weren't able to help at all either. Ended up having to mess with the dip switches and my phone while driving to get it to read right.

This is one of my favorites:

posted earlier, but i think because i posted a link it didnt get approved: my car had the issue where the nut came loose, i tightened it up and it was fine for about a month or so, then the noise came back and the nut was still snug. took out my hub and hearing tho. as for the price of the hub, yeah, ford is the only one who sells it. on the bright side, ford racing sells one too, for about $160 + shipping from summit racing. the bearing they sell as well for about $50 or so. a few things to point out from when i did mine: 1) make sure to replace that nut that holds the half shaft onto the hub. my understanding is that its a one time use item 2) make sure you mark the camber bolts before you remove them, that will make your life a bit easier and not make you have to get an alignment afterwards 3) make sure you have a machine shop locally who is open on whatever day you decide to do this as you will need the bearing pressed off the hub and you will need the new one pressed on. unless you have a press at home, in which case that would be awesome.

haha, that actually sounds like what happened to me, however tightening the nut only worked for about a month or so, then the squeaking came back and when i took everything apart, the bearing was toast and so was my hub, at least you plan on replacing the bearing this weekend. a few tips tho: 1) the hub can be purchased from Ford Racing for about $160 from Summit Racing..... http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Ford-Racing-Replacement-IRS-Mustang-Cobra-Hubs/. not exactly cheap, but way cheaper than ford and its the exact same part. 2) in case you didnt already know, the bearing is pressed onto the hub, so make sure you make plans for that and know of a machine shop locally that can do it for you (unless you happen to have a press at home) 3) mark the camber bolts so you can get them back in the same position when you put everything back together, it will save you the cost of having to get an alignment afterwards.

The driveshaft shouldn't need to be shortened, but it might need a bit of persuasion to get it on. A shortened shaft would make life easier tho.

From experience, that sounds like a blown bearing that's eating away at the hub. I would say take it apart and be ready to replace the bearing and the hub Have you lifted the car and checked for play? Any side to side play is a sure sign of a bad bearing.

What button rattles? And yeah, the handles are gen1 sn95 and gen2 sn95 specific. Can't swap them unless you wanna get creative.

i added one to my f150, it was actually pretty easy. however, on the 01+ f-150, its prewired for the keypad even if it didnt come with it from the factory.....the only thing you needed was to have either factory or dealer installed keyless entry, and if you already had that, its a simple plug and play. not too sure how it works on our cars tho.... here is the link for the f150 one: http://www.svtlightnings.com/svt/how-to/keypad/keypad_install.htm towards the bottom of the page, it shows how to install the keypad onto the 99-00 f150/expedition, which i think might be more helpful.

sweet, at least it was an easy fix.

gotcha. sorry for the delay in replying, i was using tapatalk and my posts were coming in late. Anyways, just trying to rule out coincidences. i had my fuel pump go out on me once after i had messed around with the engine, unrelated but at the time it seemed related.

Also...a sweet smell in the exhaust is usually your car running rich, in your case it sounds like a misfire, not so much spark knock. After it started acting up from the citgo gas, you said you drove it to a gas station to get the 93, right? Did you let it sit/cool off before you drove it with the 93?

Could it be that your fuel pump filter is bad/dirty? Or that the fuel level was so low the pump can't pick it up anymore?

Quick question......how exactly does your car chose to use the 93 good stuff over the cheap stuff already in the tank? That's kinda like saying you mixed Pepsi and coke in the same glass and stopped drinking it once you finished the coke. Gas (87, 89, 91, or 93 octane) will mix once you combine two octane levels. Example: get 2 gallons of 93 and two gallons of 87 and put them in the same tank, you now have four gallons of 90 octane gas. Where you on empty when you put the citgo stuff in there?