Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Alrighty guys, as some of you know, I am building a 2v motor and want to see what kind of cams to go with. Engine consists of an NPI block, PI heads, 1 3/4 long tubes, Steeda UDPs, C&L Plenum, 75mm trickflow tb, and thats it for now. Now my dilemma is what kind of cams should I get? I was thinking of getting the HiTech Stage 2s to keep my stock springs but MHS has a stage 2 that I can also keep my stock springs and are more meant for PI swaps but havent seen any dyno numbers on those yet. If you guys have any other suggestions, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Without a doubt go with the HP292S cams. They were worth 40whp on my bone stock 2v back in the day. This being said, some people have had issues with the regrinds if your lash adjusters are older. It'll actually allow the cam followers to unseat due to the cams smaller base circle and the lash adjusters inability to compensate for it. So if you do get HP292S Regrinds, get new lash adjusters at the very least.PS - I'd run far away from MHS these days, it's no longer run by Nick McKinney, so the quality is "subject" to say the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 I'm hoping to break into the 300rwhp barrier and so far I've seen the HP292S only around 280rwhp or so but then again thats on a regular pi engine. I'm glad you told me Nick is no longer running MHS that way I can go somewhere else. Only issue I see with the HP292S is not that I need new lash adjusters, thats not a big deal since I'm going to get some new ones anyways, but my issue is that they are supposed to be meant more for blower applications arent they? I would like to get as much n/a cam as I can. When you got the 40rwhp gain, did you just put them straight up or degree? Reason I ask is because I've read that they sometimes sell pressed on gear regrinds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 I'm hoping to break into the 300rwhp barrier and so far I've seen the HP292S only around 280rwhp or so but then again thats on a regular pi engine. I'm glad you told me Nick is no longer running MHS that way I can go somewhere else. Only issue I see with the HP292S is not that I need new lash adjusters, thats not a big deal since I'm going to get some new ones anyways, but my issue is that they are supposed to be meant more for blower applications arent they? I would like to get as much n/a cam as I can. When you got the 40rwhp gain, did you just put them straight up or degree? Reason I ask is because I've read that they sometimes sell pressed on gear regrinds.i can guarantee you'll see over 300whp with the HP292s cams. Most people that run them don't have longtubes. I made 274rwhp with a low compression block and stock shorty's. the NPI block will bump compression and you'll see about 3% gain per compression point over stock. Longtubes generally will net you around 15-20rwhp as well. They ARE meant for blower applications, but, that being said they are AMAZING for N/A cars. It's a great multi-purpose cam that has a decent sounding idle as well. I got the 40whp gain by dropping in the cams and just going. I bought the pressed on set since I was using a windsor block anyway. I'm sure I could have picked up even more power had they been the romeo style cam and i degreed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Thanks Brett!!! Guess I'm going with the HP292s. You have any dyno charts by any chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 (edited) Thanks Brett!!! Guess I'm going with the HP292s. You have any dyno charts by any chance?I was off it was 271rwhp on my car, dunno why i thought 274.This is a dyno comparison of bone stock roush w/ cams (263/282) vs. JLT RAI, Accufab Plenum, and 75mm TB w/ Cams (271/287)And knowing Joe, this was tuned safely versus aggressively. If it was tuned by kurgan, I'm sure he could have gotten a tad more out of it, but Joe is the only person that could master getting my idle right lol. Edited January 26, 2013 by iRoush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 It'll be really close IMO with the added comperssion and long tubes. Hopefully that alone lets me stay close or above the 300rwhp mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 It'll be really close IMO with the added comperssion and long tubes. Hopefully that alone lets me stay close or above the 300rwhp mark.I'm sure you'll hit it no problem, I could have but my heart wasn't in building a motor up inside the engine bay Hence the build of all N/A builds lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Thats why all my builds, I take the engine out and work on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Looks like the 292s will be my cams of choice. What kind/size shims should I use. I've always used lash caps but different cams require different things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Looks like the 292s will be my cams of choice. What kind/size shims should I use. I've always used lash caps but different cams require different things.honestly have no idea. i think every cam will be different. you'll have to measure lash. I never put shims in because i used brand new TFS lash adjusters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 The TFS lash adjusters are long enough to compensate for the small base circle or is it "just enough"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 The TFS lash adjusters are long enough to compensate for the small base circle or is it "just enough"?I just slapped the lash adjusters in and never had a problem. I didn't measure lash so I don't know if it was within spec. They worked until I pulled the engine out and parted it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 If you are worried about buying regrinds, you could always order a freshly ground HP292S. it's $200 more than the regrind, but it'll give you piece of mind... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 $650? I'll do that, I thought they were 850. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 $650? I'll do that, I thought they were 850.it's been awhile since I looked so you may want to verify on there site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 I'll do that. I already have flow matched 36lb injectors and going with terminator pumps with a 40amp BAP and our Ortiz Performance wiring kit (Not that bullshit small wiring on relay crap Lethal sells). These PI swaps take way less timing than the regular PI motors. I'm talking about 23* or so. Since I already have a good amount of fuel going, I figured why not go E85? Not like my car will be a daily anyways. What do you think Brett? NPI block, HP292s, long tubes, full bolt ons, and E85 going to around 29* of timing? Think it'll be enough to crack 11s? The car is pretty much stripped and has tubular suspension and lightweight seats already and no a/c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 I'll do that. I already have flow matched 36lb injectors and going with terminator pumps with a 40amp BAP and our Ortiz Performance wiring kit (Not that bullshit small wiring on relay crap Lethal sells). These PI swaps take way less timing than the regular PI motors. I'm talking about 23* or so. Since I already have a good amount of fuel going, I figured why not go E85? Not like my car will be a daily anyways. What do you think Brett? NPI block, HP292s, long tubes, full bolt ons, and E85 going to around 29* of timing? Think it'll be enough to crack 11s? The car is pretty much stripped and has tubular suspension and lightweight seats already and no a/c.tough to say really. N/A cars don't respond to e85 nearly as well as a boosted car, so the gains won't be incredible from it. You may see a 5% increase across the board in power from e85 but that's about it. As far as running 11's goes, it'll be close. I think it'll be low 12's high 11's at best, but there's a lot of IF's that come with that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Fucking Brett always ruining my happiness. Well I need a little something to separate me from the crowd. Don't want to go boost again, compression will be around 10.5, and I need just one last thing to get me where I need to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Fucking Brett always ruining my happiness. Well I need a little something to separate me from the crowd. Don't want to go boost again, compression will be around 10.5, and I need just one last thing to get me where I need to be.Mill the heads for higher compression? Or will that kill ptv clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 It wouldn't kill it but it wouldn't be wise with aftermarket cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Daddy Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I'm late in the game but I had comp 272 & hot 310 Burning a qt of oil per 100 miles due to blow by... Def had moar in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Got a deal on some HiTech Stage 2s for 300, maybe 275. Should I get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRoush Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 chances are you're going to have to notch the pistons.... it's a hit or miss on those cams whether or not they clear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solar Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 haha well this answers my question on cams. I was looking for some cams to gain some N/A but can work for when I eventually boost the 2v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
