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PRPVinyl

4V motor differences ?

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I am wondering what the differences in the 4V motors are.

Once I can afford another money pitt, err sports car and delve into the Mustang world, I will of course want power on a budget.

I know there are different heads on the various 4V motors, what are some of the differences. When I was out at pick n pull there were multiple Lincoln Town Cars with 4V motors. Everyone seems to lean toward the Lincoln Continental 4V motors.

One of the ideas I am contemplating is finding a V-8 mustang with a bad motor, or even a V-6 car and swapping in a 4V motor. I know I would need an appropriate computer. If I were to get a 4V motor out of a Town Car, would it be a direct swap to install better heads at a later time.

So let me hear some of the pros and cons to this

matt

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No town car should have a 4v

Continentals are fwd so u cant use the block but the heads are reusable

Find a gt yank the motor rebuild the bottom end slap some 4v heads on it you'll be happy

Gears always help too

Nitrous on3 or vortech will help even more

The D3V

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Yea town cars only have the 2 valve motors. Marauders are the closest thing to that with a 4v. Easier to start off with a v8 platform so you don't have to have the trouble of finding a rear end, etc. 4v responds pretty good to bolt ons, and 300 rwhp is pretty easily achievable.

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Yeah, I havn't decided if I want to build a track car or just a weekend badass. I would rather build a 300 RWHP car from parts for less than buying one. Prices are so all over the place for running cars. Even if I start with a V-6 I can buy a junkyard axle to put in it for not a whole lot of cash.

Matt

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if you wanted a track car, def find a mark viii engine and at least use the block. The 4v motor will pretty much drop into any 96-04 GT/cobra as well, seriously, you have to lengthen like 4 wires and it all bolts right up. If you went with a v6 you'll be looking at changing k-members and stuff, not a big deal, but something else to consider. You can use any mark viii 4v from 93-98 (b heads). 97 and 98 used COP though. The 97-98 motors also used an intake mani setup similar to a 99/01 cobra, so you can use that intake mani with the 99/01 cobra linkage and stuff. The 96-98 (b heads) cobra stuff is super hard to find, and expensive. With the B heads you HAVE to use a 96-98 cobra intake, or a 97-98 mark vii intake manifold. If you went with a 4v and went with C heads, 99-04 4v heads, you can use a termi s/c, 99/01 intake manifold, mach 1 intake, and stuff is still pretty available for those.

Just my opinion, i know plenty others will disagree, but if you're planning on going 300whp, you could do it with a heavily bolted on 2v, or drop in a C head 4v. put on some bolt ons, and you would be there.

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if you wanted a track car, def find a mark viii engine and at least use the block. The 4v motor will pretty much drop into any 96-04 GT/cobra as well, seriously, you have to lengthen like 4 wires and it all bolts right up. If you went with a v6 you'll be looking at changing k-members and stuff, not a big deal, but something else to consider. You can use any mark viii 4v from 93-98 (b heads). 97 and 98 used COP though. The 97-98 motors also used an intake mani setup similar to a 99/01 cobra, so you can use that intake mani with the 99/01 cobra linkage and stuff. The 96-98 (b heads) cobra stuff is super hard to find, and expensive. With the B heads you HAVE to use a 96-98 cobra intake, or a 97-98 mark vii intake manifold. If you went with a 4v and went with C heads, 99-04 4v heads, you can use a termi s/c, 99/01 intake manifold, mach 1 intake, and stuff is still pretty available for those.

Just my opinion, i know plenty others will disagree, but if you're planning on going 300whp, you could do it with a heavily bolted on 2v, or drop in a C head 4v. put on some bolt ons, and you would be there.

V6 have the same k-member as v8 cars. Wiring is still a bitch

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V6 have the same k-member as v8 cars. Wiring is still a bitch

Unless you have a complete v8 donor car, are really good with wiring, and don't mind the car sitting for awhile start with a v8 with the transmission you want auto or manual

The D3V

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V6 have the same k-member as v8 cars. Wiring is still a bitch

The 94-95 GT and 94-04 v6 k-members are the same, the 4.6 k-members are different i thought. Could be wrong but i coulda swore that was the case.. :dunno:

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A Mark 8 would be easiest to find. Search craigslist for wrecked cars too. I believe a fellow on driftlive.com bought a wrecked Mark 8 for $500 then he just plopped the engine in his Fox. However, he repinned the computer or something. The wiring is what always confuses me. I don't know what needs changed when swapping a 4v engine into a 2v Mustang.

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Last night looking on CL there were two different MK VIII's.One was 1500 the other was 1900, could probably get either of them for less than asking price. When the time comes I may just find a running Mk VIII, then I have the Engine/Trans/complete wiring harness's and the computer. I am just tossing around ideas and trying to get everyone's thoughts

I think if I were to go over and lay out $1000 cash the one guy would take it, Plus after pulling all of the parts I need I could scrap the rest of the car for the weight and get a little money back.

Does any one know how the MK VIII axle compares to the mustang axle, width, SRA or IRS

Matt

Edited by PRPVinyl
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Yeah, I should be able to get at least a couple of hundred back in scrap weight value. If I have everything intake to oil pan and crank pulley to tail shaft, wiring harness and computer then there should not be any if ands or buts about it I would have everything I need to put a 4V motor into a V-6 car, and if the K member is different then I should be able to get one at pick and pull for not much cash

That would make a bad ass sleeper, leave all of the V-6 badging and rims, and throw a 4V in it and go out and hurt some feelings

Matt

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Yeah, I should be able to get at least a couple of hundred back in scrap weight value. If I have everything intake to oil pan and crank pulley to tail shaft, wiring harness and computer then there should not be any if ands or buts about it I would have everything I need to put a 4V motor into a V-6 car, and if the K member is different then I should be able to get one at pick and pull for not much cash

That would make a bad ass sleeper, leave all of the V-6 badging and rims, and throw a 4V in it and go out and hurt some feelings

Matt

Somebody already said it, but I'm pretty sure ford used the same K member for the V8 and the V6's, so a V6 roller you'd just need an 8.8 rear and toss the 7.5, strip the inside down to a shell, take all the under dash crap and what not out and wiring, then rewire the car, slap it all back together and BOOM! Sleeper from hell.

Sent from my secretary!!!

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Would the 4V Modular swap into a 96? Or did they change the K member when they went to the mod motor. There is a 96 in Poquoson for $500, CL ad says there is a hole in the block. Damn i wish i had a trailer.

Matt

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Easiest thing is to get a running Mark VIII or Cobra motor, good luck with the Cobra motors though, ppl want a LOT of money for those and almost never include the intake.

If it were me on a budget and had to go 4V:

-Mark VIII shortblock with good compression, sell or scrap the B heads, they aren't worth any money but someone might give you $100 for them

-Continental/Cobra tumble port C heads

-99/01 Cobra intake

-98 Cobra intake cams

-Bolt ons

-Tune

Or if you could bear to go 2V since 2Vs can make huge power too:

-Running PI motor from a Crown Vic or something with low miles that an old person owned (they are the same)

-Used set of Comp 270 cams

-Bolt ons

-Tune

The 4V will make more power but the 2V will be cheaper and get you close to or at your 300whp goal. 4V will also be lighter block wise but the 2V has lighter heads, 2 less cams, less cam stuff and less stuff to rotate. Your choice, both platforms can support huge power but huge power=huger money.

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2v mod motors came in the 96 Mustangs so the 4v would bolt up. The blocks are basically the same. It looks like the k-member for the v6 would be the same for a 5.0L. Thus, if you have a v6 car and you want to install a v8, you will need to buy a v8 k-member. Call Maximum Motorsports to confirm but this is what I can tell from their website. No clue about the length of the Mark 8 axles. I believe the subframe is totally different in the Mark 8 and the rear suspension wouldn't bolt up.

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Oh, I forgot to add in the other post... you might just want to buy a V8 car. By the time you get done converting anything you'll probably be into it for as much or more than you would if you just sold it and got a V8 to begin with. 96-98 NPI cars are DIRT cheap and the 2V is easy to make decently quick with a simple PI swap or even just PI cams and PI intake and leave the NPI heads on there. Plenty of bolt on PI cars in the 12s with untouched long blocks. IIRC some guys with aftermarket cams and tunes are at 300+whp and high 11s.

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Matt, if we stripped the car down to a shell and only installed the must haves, front seats, wiring, MAYBE center console, a 300rwhp 2V would probably run mid 11's if we really stripped the car down that much.

Sent from my secretary!!!

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2v mod motors came in the 96 Mustangs so the 4v would bolt up. The blocks are basically the same. It looks like the k-member for the v6 would be the same for a 5.0L. Thus, if you have a v6 car and you want to install a v8, you will need to buy a v8 k-member. Call Maximum Motorsports to confirm but this is what I can tell from their website. No clue about the length of the Mark 8 axles. I believe the subframe is totally different in the Mark 8 and the rear suspension wouldn't bolt up.

Ugh..... v6 have the same k-member as whatever v8 came in the same year. A 94-95 v6 has a different k member than a 96-04 v6.

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