How to make my V6 faster and what mods are worth doing to a V6?

[MMR]

Since the V6s are different from the V8s in trems of how they benefit from the different mods, I thought we should make a list about what mods are worth doing.

Let me know if you guys have anything else to add....Maybe we should sticky this?

Stage 1

- K&N Drop in filter and remove the silencer tube (does the same as a CAI, but costs much less)

- UPDs (Good for 8-10 hp, helps on mpg too, an okay bang for the buck for just being a bolt on)

- Gears (main reason why the 94-98 V6s are as slow as they are , is because of the 2.73 gearing in the rear)

- LSD (all pre-2011 V6s came with an open carrier from the factory)

- Gas pedal mod (better throttle responce: http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/99pedals.htm Note: this can be done on all 94-04 models, I don't know why it says "For 99-00 Mustangs")

- Aftermarket shifter (B&M Hammershifter for Autos)

- Tune (Better throttle responce, Better MPG, Speed limiter removed, on paper a tune will give you 10-15 hp depending on what tune you get but it feels like so much more than that and gives you an over all better driverbility of the car, better tq at low rpms too), Luis from Ortiz Performance can make you a nice custom tune.

- Windstar intake swap (for 99-04 models, good for 10-12 hp.)

- Split port swap (for 94-98 models, gives 94-98 V6 mustangs the stock power of 99-04 V6 mustangs)

- 8.8" rear axle swap (from a 94-04 GT or Cobra), IRS from 99-04 Cobras are also a direct bolt in.

- Long tube headers (Does not do much by themselves, but will be a benefit with supporting mods)

- Exhaust: Catted midle pipe (x-pipe or H-pipe) and a catback system (Any brand will do, however MAC is known for fitment issues) if you get and H-pipe or X-pipe you will need a cat back system for a GT. (Don't get an Off road H or X-pipe, your car will run like shit with it)

Stage 2

- Aftermarket Camshaft (Comp cams makes camshafts for the 3.8L V6, and KPP (http://kylepersonperformance.m.webs.com/site/webs_41428607/home?url=http%3A%2F%2Fkylepersonperformance.webs.com%2F) is a shop that specializes in custom cams for the 3.8L and 4.2L)

- Ported and Polished heads and intakes (Luis from Ortiz Performance on this site is your man for the job) - (Remember to have your valve springs replaced with stronger ones and get roller rockers too, here is where the BBK 56mm throttle body will actually do something)

- 4.2L engine swap (from an 97-04 Ford F-150, rated at 205 HP)

- Supercoupe Engine swap (Supercharged and forged version of the 3.8L engine, rated at 220 hp)

- Turbo kit (TMA makes turbo kits for the 3.8L V6)

- M90 swap (Supercharger kit from a supercoupe, fits 94-98 V6 mustangs)

- M112 Swap (Supercharger from a 03-04 cobra, requires an adapterplate to fit 99-04 mustangs)

Remarks for stage 1:

- The BBK 56mm throttle body is useless without P&P heads and intake.

- CAIs are a waste of money.

- Throttle Body Spacers are a waste of money, see link: http://www.sn95source.com/showthread.php?1114-Throttle-Body-Spacer-Showdown!&p=27410#post27410

- Aftermarket ignition parts are claimed to give better MPG and throttle responce, but no power gains. The ones offered for the 3.8L are not known for lasting very long and are known for failing, this especially goes for the one from Screaming demon. Motorcraft are OEM parts and are known for being the best lasting and most reliable.

- Long tube headers will require 2 of the 4 cats to be removed in order to fit, this will not pass inspection everywere.

- Wondering what gears, lsd and shifter to get? - Look in to the gears and drivetrain sections on here, there are some good write ups and member feedback on what go get and what not to get.

Remarks for stage 2:

- Power packs (offered from supersix motorsports) are too expensive compared to the cost of having your stock heads and intakes P&P.

- TMA is a small business that consists of one or two guys, so they are not always available and all kits are "made to order" so expect to wait a few weeks for your kit.

- Ortiz Performance can also help you with what cam, springs and roller rockers to get for your specific build and application.

Edited January 18, 2013 by MMR

[cmsismyname]

Good write up. Split port swap isn't always the best way to go you can get great gains with a P&P singleport setup also

[iRoush]

Single port w/ an m90 swap is the only way to go IMO. lol

[330CubeGt]

I also went single port to Split back in my V6 days and it was not a huge gain, Stock for stock the Split ran a little better. But now looking back i wish i had put the M90 i had on there a left it be a single port.

[LilRoush]

The 4.2L swap out of the F150 is a great step. Nothing like stepping up to pushrod 5.0L hp/tq numbers with a basic crank swap. My N/A 4.2L with basic porting put down 247/253 @ the wheels.

The 4.2L responds very well to boost (in both single port and split port set ups).

[MMR]

OP updated, thanks for the input guys!

[MMR]

Found some articles that are a pretty good read also:

[TABLE=width: 645]

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[TD=colspan: 8]The 3.8L Engine

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[TD=colspan: 8]More than 75 percent of all the SN95

Mustangs were equipped from the factory with the 3.8L V-6.

Producing

145 hp in its 1994 form, this powerplant is usually overlooked by enthusiasts in

favor of its larger and more-powerful siblings – the pushrod and

overhead cam V-8s. And yet, there are

some hardcore enthusiasts who‘ve

pushed development on the V-6 and offer some guidance for

those who

might follow in their steps. Tom Morana of Morana Racing Engines in Toronto is

a

leading proponent of the 3.8L V-6. His credentials include building a

12-second V-6 ’84 Mustang all

the way back in 1990 at a time when a V-8

was the only fashionable way to go fast. Morana has

devoted his time

for the past 20 years to squeezing big horsepower out of a small package.

[/TD]

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[TD=colspan: 3]Tom Morana – the V-6

engine

master. Tom has

nearly 40 years of engine

building experience,

and his

shop, Morona Racing,

specializes in the 3.8L.

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[TD=colspan: 8]The early 3.8L blocks used in the

’94-’95 Mustang are adequate for moderate performance, but if

you are

after more than 300 hp or are using a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous oxide, the

’96-up V-6

block offers some improvements. Chief among these are deeper

holes for the head bolts on the

intake side of the deck. The early

blocks used holes that weren’t as deep as the exhaust-side head-

bolt

holes, and the threads start at the deck surface instead of deep within the

block. When the

head bolts are torqued, the deck surface pulls up a

slight amount, unloading the head gasket on

the intake side of the

deck. This feature, and poor-quality head gaskets, are contributing reasons

for head-gasket failures on the early 3.8Ls, which they acquired a

reputation for. The block was

reconfigured in 1996, allowing deep

threaded holes to anchor the inner head bolts in the same way

that the

outer ones had been anchored all along. The later block also has more support

around the

bottom of the cylinder bore, and the main caps are beefier

as well.

Speaking of main caps, one of the weak points on the 3.8L is the

2-bolt main cap. Once you exceed

300 hp, the caps tend to move around,

causing reliability issues. The solution is to use ARP main

bolts and

one of Tom Morana’s stud girdles. The steel stud girdle ties all the main caps

together,

preventing flex. This simple fix ensures reliability at over

400 hp and 7,000 rpm.

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[TD=colspan: 2]The 3.8LV-6 bottom end

needs

help over 300 hp.

The steel stud girdle and

ARP studs add

strength

to main caps.

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[TD=colspan: 8]All the 3.8L V-6 engines used in the

Mustang come with a cast crankshaft. Power junkies who want

to make

more than 350 hp should consider using the crankshaft used in the Super

Coupe

T-Bird. The steel crankshaft used in the Super Coupe is much stronger,

but there is a catch. The

rear main journal is .010 inch smaller than

the other mains. The easy solution is to grind the other

journals down

to the same size, allowing you to use a set of off-the-shelf .010-inch undersize

main

bearings. Federal Mogul or Clevite premium quality bearings should

be used in all performance-

oriented 3.8L engine buildups.

The

standard 3.8L cast connecting rods are useable for moderate performance

applications, but

they aren’t considered reliable past 5,500 rpm and

300 hp. The ’94-’95 engines use a shorter

connecting rod than the

’96-up engines, the longer rod allowing a raised pin in the pistons, and a

lighter assembly. Aftermarket rods are available for the 3.8L from Scat and

others. These need to

be matched with the correct compression distance

on the piston (the distance between the

centerline of the piston pin

and the top of the piston) and dish volume in order to achieve the

desired compression ratio. Forged pistons are available from JE and others

to suit a variety of

applications.

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[TD=width: 15][/TD]

[TD=colspan: 8]Increasing the displacement of the

3.8L is as easy as dropping in the longer stroke crankshaft from

the

larger 4.2L V-6. This cast crank increases stroke from the stock 3.39 inches to

3.74 inches. Of

course, the rod length and piston compression distance

must be matched to the increased stroke.

Morana has forged rods and

pistons that work well. For those who require even more, Tom has

experimented with 4.4L and even 4.6L derivatives by offset grinding the

crankshaft. However,

reducing the diameter of the rod journals makes

the crank more flexible and ultimately less robust,

so it’s best to

stick with the 4.2L and to limit the RPM, respecting the cast-iron material it

is

constructed with.

When boring the block oversize to fit

larger pistons, the bore can be increased from the stock 3.810

inches

to a maximum of 3.875 inches. Larger bore sizes than this weaken the block and

cause

reliability issues. The oiling system on the 3.8L has no inherent

problems, and the standard pump,

pick-up tube, and pan suffice for most

performance applications. A high-volume pump is available

from Speed

Pro to increase oil supply.

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[TD=width: 15][/TD]

[TD=colspan: 8]Moving upstairs, two cylinder-head

variations for the 3.8L V-6 are available. The early ’94-’95

engines

had a single intake port, while the later ’96-2004 engines had a Siamese intake

port with

two runners feeding one intake valve. One runner supplies the

cylinder with air at low RPM, and

then the secondary port kicks in

extra air at higher RPM. The timing of this addition is managed by

the

EEC-IV engine management system.

In 1996, the deck surface of the

cylinder head was changed, providing more material around the

bore,

improving head gasket sealing. For performance use, the best head gasket to use

is the

Corteco gasket. It’s an MLS design, incorporating an outer layer

of steel, with an inner core of

copper. The flexibility built into the

head gasket means no more reliability problems from shifting

head

gaskets. The stock head bolts are torqued-to-yield, one-time-use bolts and

should be

replaced with ARP bolts which increase clamp load on the

gasket, enhancing the sealing qualities.

Using all these techniques

eliminates head gasket problems associated with the 3.8L V-6 for once

and for all.

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[TD=colspan: 8]Increasing airflow in the cylinder heads via porting and larger diameter valves readily increases the

power output of the 3.8L. The stock single-port ‘94-‘95 cylinder heads flow

175 cfm on the intake

port and 135 cfm on the exhaust port. These flow

figures can be improved to 240 cfm on the intake

and 180 cfm on the

exhaust with porting. The stock ’94-’98 valve sizes are 1.782 inches for the

intake valve, and 1.4 inches on the exhaust side. ’99-2004 engines come

with 1.861-inch intake

valves and 1.461 inches on the exhaust side. The

best choice for a street engine is to upgrade to

larger stainless-steel

performance valves, 1.84 inches on the intake side, and 1.55 inches for the

exhaust. These can be installed using the stock valve seat. All-out race

engines can go as large as

2.02-inch intake and 1.60-inch exhaust

valves with larger diameter seats. The production valves

have a stem

diameter of .341 inch, and replacement stainless valves with smaller .312- or

.275-inch

stems help produce higher airflow in the ports. The later

‘96-up twin port heads can be ported to

provide up to 270 cfm on the

intake side.

The stock intake manifold and throttle body inhibit the flow into the intake ports, as the runners are

too small to support the

airflow potential of a modified cylinder head. Street engines can benefit

from porting the stock upper and lower intake manifold, either by hand or

using the Extrude Hone

process, where an abrasive putty is forced under

pressure through the ports. Extrude Honing

increases the cross section

of the runners and contours the curve of the runner at the same time.

Another method for the upper intake is to cut open the intake through the

plenum portion, port the

runners from both sides, and then tig weld the

intake back together. Radically reworked intake

manifolds or custom

sheet metal intake manifolds are required by the most extreme engines, to

provide adequate airflow to support reworked cylinder heads. The stock

throttle body, which has a

46-mm throttle-blade diameter, can be bored

oversize and fitted with a 53-mm throttle blade. or a

new 70 mm

throttle body, available from BBK for the ’01-’04 cars, can be fitted.

[/TD]

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[TD=colspan: 4]Compare these race valves on

left – 2.02-inch intake, 1.60-inch

exhaust – with the street

performance valves on the right

– 1.89-inch intake, 1.55-inch

exhaust. That’s a production

exhaust valve in center.

[/TD]

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http://www.mre-books.com/sa106/hipomustang6.html

[MMR]

[h=1]Get More From Your 3.8L Essex V-6[/h]Modifiy Your 3.8L Into A Super Six = 325 HP!

From the February, 2001 issue of Mustang Monthly

By Jim Smart

Photography by Steve Turner, Super Six Motorsports

An engine that's probably a bigger sleeper than the vintage 200ci six is the late-model 3.8L Essex V-6. For those of you not familiar with this engine, it resembles a baby Cleveland in appearance-with its broad-shouldered valve covers and wide "V" stance. Fire it up and it sounds like a buzzy European six-popper. Lean on the throttle and it comes on strong-for a six-cylinder engine. When this engine was first introduced as a carbureted V-6 in 1982, thereby replacing the inline-200ci six, it wasn't much to write home about. It lacked torque, it did not impress, and pulling onto the freeway took planning with this anemic mill.

For years the 3.8L V-6 has been an invisible Ford power plant. The smaller 2.3L OHC four-banger has seen more press in performance arenas, due to its optional turbo status in the Fox-body Mustang, Capri, Thunderbird, and Cougar. But it seems as though we haven't given the Essex V-6 the credit it deserves, for performance potential. It has taken someone with vision and imagination to squeeze 325 hp out of this sleeping mill.

We spoke with Tom Yentzer at Super Six Motorsports about Ford's 3.8L V-6. Super Six Motorsports specializes in dyno-proven performance modifications to the '94-2000 3.8L V-6 engine used in the Mustang. Because these modifications are dyno-tested and proven, you can try them out on your late-model Mustang with confidence.

[h=2]An Awakening...[/h]In box stock form, the 3.8L Essex V-6 produces 145-150 hp at the crankshaft. According to Super Six Motorsports, that's 0.625 hp per cubic inch or 38.2 hp per liter. There is great potential in the Essex six's design. The symmetrical upper intake manifold, the sizable intake ports, the aggressive exhaust ports, and even the respectable 1.5-inch factory headers make the engine full of potential.

Super Six tells Mustang Monthly that you can modify this six in three stages, depending on your needs.

[h=2]Stage 1[/h]Stage 1 consists of porting the upper intake manifold with 1.5-inch shortened runners and greater plenum volume; a ported lower intake manifold; ported cylinder heads; three-angle valve work; and a custom-ground camshaft, which yields 214 degrees duration at 0.050 inch and 0.483-inch valve lift in a symmetrical pattern. With just these mods, rear wheel horsepower shot up to 155 at the factory 4,500-rpm rev limiter. Allowing for driveline power losses, this adds up to about 186 hp at the crankshaft. That's 41 hp with the camshaft and the head mods-all this with stock pushrods and 1.73 ratio rocker arms.

1999-2000 Biport Head

[h=2]Stage 2[/h]This stage takes us into greater potential with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator; a fuel pressure gauge; and a custom dyno-tuned computer chip to provide optimum ignition and fuel curves, increased rpm and top speed limits, lower fan "on" temperatures, and optimum AODE/4R70W shift patterns. With these simple modifications, the 3.8L V-6 delivered 177 rear wheel horsepower and 212 hp at the crankshaft. That's a 67hp increase more than factory. This maximizes the naturally aspirated potential of the Essex V-6.

[h=2]Truck Parts Shelf[/h]Another engine that Mustang buffs may be unfamiliar with is the 4.2L Essex V-6-standard in the '97-'01 F-150 pickup trucks. We learned from Super Six Motorsports that the 4.2L truck V-6 is dimensionally the same as the 3.8 used in the Mustang. This engine differs, of course, in induction and accessory packaging. It is also externally balanced, unlike the 3.8L V-6-which is internally balanced. The 4.2 also has a larger flywheel and clutch for truck use. Your challenge as an Essex V-6 buff is to marry the best features of the 3.8 and the 4.2 for best performance.

[h=2]Stage 3[/h]Fuel And Ignition Events Improved To Bring Super Six 185 Stage 3 takes us to an overbored 54mm throttle body and a 190-lph fuel pump. Along with these modifications, fuel and ignition events improved to bring Super Six 185 rear wheel horsepower and 222 hp at the crank at 6,000 rpm. What does this mean in the real world? It means 15.0 seconds in the quarter-mile; a stock V-6 Mustang clocks 16.9-17.3. If you figure the new 151/48-inch long-tube headers into this equation, even greater power is possible.

[h=2]Stage 4[/h]When we step up to Stage 4, the Hi-Po 3.8L Power Pack takes on a significantly more powerful personality. Installing a Vortech supercharger, a 75mm mass airflow sensor (MAF), 30-pound Ford Racing Performance Parts injectors, and a 6:1 FMU, boost exceeds 10 psi at 6,000 rpm. The key is safe computer function that won't harm the engine. We want a 12.4:1 air/fuel ratio. With all of this in tow, Super Six was able to pull 305 rear wheel horsepower from the 3.8L V-6. With a smaller Vortech compressor pulley, more than 330 hp is possible.

Super Six Motorsports shows us what can be achieved with the 3.8L Essex V-6. Super Six focuses on the '94-2000 engine because it yields a stronger block and better heads and induction, which make it a better platform for development.

[h=2]Biport Head[/h]In 1999 Ford began using a biport cylinder head on the 3.8. Super Six is developing Stage 1, 2, 3 and 4 packages for the '99-'01 Essex V-6. Super Six is expecting as high as 400 hp from the Stage 4 package. The biport head employs oval, long (low rpm) intake runners and circular, short (high rpm) intake runners to make the most of the displacement. This head can be installed on '94-'98 engines.

Super Six Motorsports takes the biport design and makes the most of it with porting treatments that include a gasket-match port along the entire runner. Super Six refers to this as "taper" porting, which means the heads are fully ported-with the intake ports finished to 80-grit. The bowl and port divider are blended to smooth out the airflow. On the exhaust side, the bowl is blended and the port is slightly enlarged at the header gasket, with a complete polish job. Supercharged versions get their squish or quench zones beveled to increase combustion chamber volume and lower compression.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0102_ford_mustang_v6_3_8_liter_mods/viewall.html#ixzz2GKuIupar

[MMR]

OP updated.

[deadgrl]

I don't know if this would help... I had a 95 V6 at one point in time with a 5 speed... Pretty cheap part to get from summit racing.. I had a stage 3 clutch which gave me more tq... Since it was an OBD1 car i had my cats butchered and two straight pipes and glass packs installed (glass packs were actually installed backwards) It was the most meanest sounding v6 stang i had ever heard... Cold air intake will only help at higher speeds so i was told.. would do crap for in town driving... most definitely change gears in rear.. may not get you more HP but will allow more from the motor to the ground... You probably already knew all this just thought i would put in my 2cents! Good luck....

[MMR]

All 94-98 V6 mustangs are OBDII

Edit:

Whoever tells you otherwise don't know what they are talking about.

Edited January 23, 2013 by MMR

[LilRoush]

A Stage 3 clutch on a stock V6 must have sucked to drive. And I'm not sure how it gave you more anything besides bulging muscles in your left leg.

[Pushrod91]

More tq from a clutch replacement? You must have one hell of a slipping clutch before hand.

Sent from my DROID RAZR

[PRPVinyl]

Here is an idea for you Morten,

While you are here buy a V-8 car. Take it apart and ship it back to DK piece by piece. Soldiers used to ship jeeps from Vietnam to the US like that back in the 60's. By the time you get done with school you could have a complete V-8 waiting for you.

But back to your original post, You have to figure out what your goals are before you start throwing parts at it. For instance the 8.8 swap will reduce your RWHP. The 8.8 has more rotating mass than the small V-6 gear so it will therefore eat more. HP.

I still vote for shipping the V-8 back piece by piece

Matt

[iRoush]

I don't know if this would help... I had a 95 V6 at one point in time with a 5 speed... Pretty cheap part to get from summit racing.. I had a stage 3 clutch which gave me more tq... Since it was an OBD1 car i had my cats butchered and two straight pipes and glass packs installed (glass packs were actually installed backwards) It was the most meanest sounding v6 stang i had ever heard... Cold air intake will only help at higher speeds so i was told.. would do crap for in town driving... most definitely change gears in rear.. may not get you more HP but will allow more from the motor to the ground... You probably already knew all this just thought i would put in my 2cents! Good luck....

wat.

[MMR]

Here is an idea for you Morten,

While you are here buy a V-8 car. Take it apart and ship it back to DK piece by piece. Soldiers used to ship jeeps from Vietnam to the US like that back in the 60's. By the time you get done with school you could have a complete V-8 waiting for you.

But back to your original post, You have to figure out what your goals are before you start throwing parts at it. For instance the 8.8 swap will reduce your RWHP. The 8.8 has more rotating mass than the small V-6 gear so it will therefore eat more. HP.

I still vote for shipping the V-8 back piece by piece

Matt

I want to buy a classic V8 muscle car and ship it home with me so bad I can't even express it enough in words. Actually I want to buy a few lol

But the ideal or best solution for me carwise would actually be to sell my V6 and get something more practical for a DD and have a V8 as my toy/hobby car.

Like in your case with your fiesta and nova.

I appreciate you thoughts and input, thank you for sharing them.

[Schiffy]

I was always told when I had my '99 V6, the best upgrade you could do to a 3.8, was sink it and replace it with a V8. lol

[LilRoush]

Someone lied to you. I hurt V8 owner feelings all day in my V6. LOL

[Schiffy]

Someone lied to you. I hurt V8 owner feelings all day in my V6. LOL

Not knocking the V6, I had one with a 175 shot, but still... From my experience with them and my experience with V8's, you may hurt a lot of V8 owners feelings, but I bet it's costing you an arm and a leg. The NEW V6's are legit. lol

[LilRoush]

$2000 M112 kit doubles the stock 3.8L hp with the right tune. Toss that on a 4.2L and you're at stock 32V power for about 1/3 the price.

If you take the money you'd pay for a stock Cobra and invest it in the V6, you'll have a lot more rwhp/tq to play with. I sold my built 4.2L for fairly cheap when I dropped a stock 3.8L in it to sell.

[Schiffy]

I've got a friend who bought a 2011 V6, she left her keys with my wife and I when she went on detachment to Fallon and a Sandy was moving up the coast so we went onto base and brought it back to our house(inland, high ground) that thing was fun as hell to drive!

[MMR]

Me and my dad rented a 2012 V6 last time we were in california, the new V6s are really gold!

Not just fast (for a V6) but also really smooth too. The only thing though is that their claim of 31 MPG is humbug, the one we rented struggled to get more than 26-27 MPG and it was brand new. Other than that I don't have anything negative to say about it..

[PRPVinyl]

Me and my dad rented a 2012 V6 last time we were in california, the new V6s are really gold!

Not just fast (for a V6) but also really smooth too. The only thing though is that their claim of 31 MPG is humbug, the one we rented struggled to get more than 26-27 MPG and it was brand new. Other than that I don't have anything negative to say about it..

Highway MPG isn't calculated at the standard interstate speed of 70 MPH. Note I said interstate speed. Highway speed is usually done at 55MPH which is the standard for non interstate highways( old standard any ways). Also most cars take 6 thousand miles or so to break in and achieve at or near rated mileage

Matt

[PRPVinyl]

One of the car magazines did a test of all of the 40+ MPG cars. Most of them tested beat the EPA estimate at 55 MPH, most of them were below the EPA rating at 70 MPH on the interstate.

Matt

[Orange 94]

I would strongly recommend the 4.2 with m112 setup! love it.

Also I strongly believe the rear end gears is one of the best mods for price. I found a very noticeable difference switching to 373s

[AustunXXI]

Is the transmission from a mid-eighties SVO mustang the same as the ones on the v6? I think they're t5's, not sure though.

I ask because the SVO had a short shifter kit standard, I think Hurst. Not just a cut down shifter lol.

can't think of a whitty signature...

[smallblocksn95]

Is the transmission from a mid-eighties SVO mustang the same as the ones on the v6? I think they're t5's, not sure though.

I ask because the SVO had a short shifter kit standard, I think Hurst. Not just a cut down shifter lol.

can't think of a whitty signature...

yes they are both T5's, You can use any shifter meant for a mustang with a T5 or T45. I used a B&M pro ripper in my V6. They factory hurst shifter isn't much better than the standard shifter so you'll be better off getting an aftermarket one

[Younts_Autosport]

Anybody else have any experience with the intake spacers from Steven at VAP Auto? I purchased mine several years ago but I remembered being very impressed by it. I thought it was a pretty good value at $100-110 including gaskets/hardware.

[Kaoticka]

Do I have to match year for year if I do the 4.2L swap?

[stowahstang]

I would strongly recommend the 4.2 with m112 setup! love it.

Also I strongly believe the rear end gears is one of the best mods for price. I found a very noticeable difference switching to 373s

I second that. I had 10hp on a gtech going from 2.73 7.5" to 3.55 lsd 8.8. I know gtech's are inconsistent. But it had better acceleration. Way more fun to drive.