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MMR

DIY Porting heads and intake difficulty?

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How hard it is REALLY to port heads and intakes?

I mean for $33 sounds like its worth the shot to try out yourself?

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

I mean it Looks easy enough...

Can we use gaskets to mark the areas around the intake ports to indicate how much metal to remove as well (like the dude in the video did)?

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Haven't watched the video, but I've done some light porting. This was back on a 351W. I port matched the intake and heads as well as the exhaust to the headers. I used the gaskets to figure out how big I needed to go then blended it into the port. I smoothed out the rest of the port and cleaned up the valve guide. Biggest thing I made sure was to not change the port shape. That requires a flow bench to do correctly. The motor performed pretty well when I put it back together.

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didn't you port something while it was still on your car too? :look:

Yup. Did the heads on my 98 GT when I did the PI intake swap. Motor was still alive when I traded in. Too bad the car ended up getting impounded after that.

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ive been contemplating this as well. actually just came home from home depot with a dremel and some drum sanding bits. didnt know that east wood had a kit. Ill have to look into that tomorrow at work. I was planing on doing the cobras intake so when i get it done ill post some pics!

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ive been contemplating this as well. actually just came home from home depot with a dremel and some drum sanding bits. didnt know that east wood had a kit. Ill have to look into that tomorrow at work. I was planing on doing the cobras intake so when i get it done ill post some pics!

Summit used to have a kit as well.

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for the first pass to really get the material out of the way I found it was better to use the cutting bit, the one that looks like a funky drill bit? You can just lightly drag it across the material and it will be the fastest. Of course be carefull, don't cut it down to the line you scribe but close to it and then use the sanding stones/drum to clean it up and get to the line you made perfectly.

The only other piece for your dremel I would suggest is get the flexable extension piece. It goes on the end of the dremel where you would normally put the bits and then has a 3-4ft long flexable extention that you put your bits on the end of it. It make is MUCH easier to get into the deeper areas and not have the bulky dremel body in the way.

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ive been contemplating this as well. actually just came home from home depot with a dremel and some drum sanding bits. didnt know that east wood had a kit. Ill have to look into that tomorrow at work. I was planing on doing the cobras intake so when i get it done ill post some pics!

Eastwood is da shit! ..I don't think I have ever bought anything that wasn't top quallity from eastwood. Not to mention if you compare quallity to other brands, eastwood is not even expensive, no they are not the cheapest but if you look at the quallity you get for your $$$ then they are not expensive.

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You can do more harm then good to what your porting if you have no clue what you can or can not remove... If your going to do port work your going need carbide bits, long, med and some short they can be costly if you buy 1 at a time but summit racing sells a half decent carbide porting setup thats a good starter kit for the DIY guy in mind... The sanding type bits are more for finishing abd your going to want a ball, cone or even a cylinder shape bit so you have bits that can get to the hard to reach corners...

Heads up and ass kickin! Using Tapatalk 2

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yea its definitly one of those projects you do not want to rush. I was a little confused that there was nothing but sanding drums in the kit, and only 80 gritt too?! Just take your time and slowly work your way up to the line and keep it smooth and it should not be a problem. I am sure the carbides are needed for heads that are not aluminum but again the dremel cutting bit will go through the aluminum nice and smooth if you control it.

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The upside to doing your intakes is you only have 6 runners on each to clean up. I'd hate to do a 32V intake or heads!

Only the B heads have the split ports. The C heads only have 8 runners. The intakes for both only have 8 runners.

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Didn't see this thread until now. Don't be afraid of the singleports man. They are easy as hell to do! Takes several hours to do but once you are done its awesome. I haven't seen the video yet but what I do is I just put the gasket over the ports, put dye over with a brush, and then port away. I did a supercoupe a while back and it responds awesome.

Here is me torquing everything down.

100_1226.jpg

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I think I will just wait until I come over there and have them send off to Luis to be sure its done right. Luis doesnt charge much for doing it anyway and I support Ortiz Performance too :salute:

Edited by MMR
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I used a dremel on the medium speed with 2 carbide bits. 1 slightly wider tipped then the pilot bit and 1 about 5/16 in size. I then used 85. - 225 grit flapper wheels. You can get roll cartridges. I used those for the sloped areas. Theres a seller on ebay who makes different sized sand flappers for dremel and worked perfectly. To reduce tooling marks i used a drop of meguirs paint polish and aluminum cleaner on the flappers. To measure i went to harbor freight and bought some measurement tools. A digital caliper and inside diameter protractor. It worked really well. It took me roughly 20 hours because i never ported before.

Sent by smoke signals

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