kennyGT Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 I Nitrous Outlet digital window switch with TPS activation. Those not familiar here is the description. Nitrous Outlet Digital Window Switch with built in TPS activation, and Gear lock out features.Nitrous Outlet's digital window switch is an affordable, compact, and easy to use controller.Will easily fit into small spaces giving you more flexibility in install options.Digital Hand Held Controller with LED read out for ease of programming and diagnosis, Conforms Vehicle RPM, Shows wide open throttle activation, shows gear lock out status, and shows activation statusNo computer needed!RPM activation and RPM deactivation.TPS activation for falling signal, rising signals, low voltage signals, irregular signals and mechanical wide open throttle.Multi Gear lock Out Feature allows delaying the stage from activation.Ground & Hot Output wires allow multiple accessory activations for use with timing retards, indication lights etc.Hi amp continuous duty circuits40 amp capable draw.Can easily be upgraded to a progressive controller by simply purchasing a solenoid driver.Controlls one stage.I'm assuming wiring this in would go to the TPS aswell as a COP for rpm signal. that would mean the system has something similar to a msd tach adapter?Anyone have any experience with controller? Better suggestions. I mean this seems to be part progressive controller and window switch considering the gear lock out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) SubscribedThe D3V Edited September 16, 2012 by D3vst8r96gt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Window switches are awesome and you are correct. There is one wire that connects to the coil pack where it gets its rpm signal and the tps as well. So it wont activate without you being at WOT and surpass the rpm you selected. The MSD one has "pills" that really turned me off from using it so the digital ones are better because you can choose what rpm the nitrous will activate instead of buying more pills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennyGT Posted September 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 The device itself looks pretty awkward. Where do you sit in on the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Not sure, the one I had are not made anymore but I had mine under the cd player where you put your change in. I drilled a hole in the back for the wiring and thats it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMR Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 I don't get it, what do they do exactly? *harp darp* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luis@OrtizPerformance Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 It connects to a tps (Throttle position sensor) signal wire and records the highest voltage (wot) so it wont activate it until it reaches that voltage. It also has another wire that connects to a coil pack for RPM and from there you can choose what rpm you want it to activate (Mine was at 3200). Once you go wide open throttle, the device will read wide open throttle voltage but wont fully activate until it reaches the rpm you had selected. That way you can have the nitrous Armed but not activate until both the tps and rpm reach their selected values.With this, it'll keep you away from puddling on the intake manifold. Puddling occurs when you activate the nitrous at a low rpm and it is usually the cause of blown up intake manifolds. This window switch is a safety net for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMR Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 It connects to a tps (Throttle position sensor) signal wire and records the highest voltage (wot) so it wont activate it until it reaches that voltage. It also has another wire that connects to a coil pack for RPM and from there you can choose what rpm you want it to activate (Mine was at 3200). Once you go wide open throttle, the device will read wide open throttle voltage but wont fully activate until it reaches the rpm you had selected. That way you can have the nitrous Armed but not activate until both the tps and rpm reach their selected values.With this, it'll keep you away from puddling on the intake manifold. Puddling occurs when you activate the nitrous at a low rpm and it is usually the cause of blown up intake manifolds. This window switch is a safety net for it.Gotcha ..thanks :drinktothat: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Puddling occurs when you activate the nitrous at a low rpm and it is usually the cause of blown up intake manifolds. so cool to see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennyGT Posted September 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) It connects to a tps (Throttle position sensor) signal wire and records the highest voltage (wot) so it wont activate it until it reaches that voltage. It also has another wire that connects to a coil pack for RPM and from there you can choose what rpm you want it to activate (Mine was at 3200). Once you go wide open throttle, the device will read wide open throttle voltage but wont fully activate until it reaches the rpm you had selected. That way you can have the nitrous Armed but not activate until both the tps and rpm reach their selected values.With this, it'll keep you away from puddling on the intake manifold. Puddling occurs when you activate the nitrous at a low rpm and it is usually the cause of blown up intake manifolds. This window switch is a safety net for it.Very good explanation, i would also like to note that it will mostly help you with traction for instance your suspension/tire set-up is good for lets say 350 rwhp and you currently make 335rwhp n/a and 490rwhp on nitrous you can lock out 1rst gear so when you launch you can go full out and not worry about messing up your 60' and when you engage second the big hit will kick in which you should have traction for around 30mph or so. This device is very useful if your looking to be accurate on your E/T Edited September 16, 2012 by kennyGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330CubeGt Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 (edited) Can't i tap into the tach signal wire as i would for the shift light i just picked up for the window switch? I don't have one right now but will be looking to pick one up sooner then later :/IMO i think 3200+ is best to have the kit come on to prevent you from removing the intake from the car Edited September 18, 2012 by 330CubeGt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennyGT Posted September 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 my nitrous activates where ever i launch at turns off when i passed the 1/4 mile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copmagnet Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 ]Can't i tap into the tach signal wire as i would for the shift light i just picked up for the window switch? I don't have one right now but will be looking to pick one up sooner then later :/IMO i think 3200+ is best to have the kit come on to prevent you from removing the intake from the car yes you can, thats how mine is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
