scottydsntknow Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) Well... not BUILT auto... eventaully will be. Yeah yeah yeah, I'm going from a manual (t45) to an automatic (gasp!). I've given up any ideas I had of this car being a road racer, I just want to be able to go fast as hell in a straight line. I've got a good idea of everything I need to convert to auto including how to do the jumper wires to allow it to start without any clutch etc...What I am thinking:-J-modded 4r75w-stock convertor or re-stalled stock converter-Mach 1 ECU so I don't ever have to worry about it not being able to shift fast enough when I do a power adderAfter I get the trans sorted out I'm going to do some suspension work like a tubular K/coilovers that will clear the gen 2 On3 kit, install that with an upgraded fuel system and then tune the thing to 400/400 while I plan a Teksid buildup (block and forged crank are on an engine stand in the garage). Anyone have any other suggestions? I don't want to hear stay 5 speed, I am set on going auto, when I'm at 400/400 I want to be able to just floor it from a stop and hang on without worrying about missing a shift or shifting at the right time not to mention that a properly setup automatic is going to outshift a stick every time all the time. Edited February 19, 2013 by scottydsntknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRPVinyl Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Put in a manual Valve body, then you can control when it shifts and keep it in the power band. Some people prefer a reverse valve body also.matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted February 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Nah, Mach 1 computer will shift it more accurately than I ever could even with a manual valve body. And the consistency is nice too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRPVinyl Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 That is where a manual valve body is great, you put it in drive and it will shift like a regular automatic trans, when at the track or just trying to go in a really fast straight line it will allow you to hold the shifts farther into the RPM range.Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 I have my aode, j-mod, stock ecu, reverse 1/16", 1-2,2-3 springs removed.. Fast ,firm, and hard when it needs to be.. I also have a second aode, built alto reds, brazed drum, reverse mechanical diode from a 99 v6, turbo converter(2800stall),.. Boom sweet setup!.. Still stock computer..Sent from my iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 That is where a manual valve body is great, you put it in drive and it will shift like a regular automatic trans, when at the track or just trying to go in a really fast straight line it will allow you to hold the shifts farther into the RPM range.MattWhy not just let the computer do it at the exact correct shift point consistently every time? I mean a stock auto no, but a modded/tuned one with correct shift points will skull**** a manually shifted car at the 1/4, especially a stick shift all other things being near equal.I have my aode, j-mod, stock ecu, reverse 1/16", 1-2,2-3 springs removed.. Fast ,firm, and hard when it needs to be.. I also have a second aode, built alto reds, brazed drum, reverse mechanical diode from a 99 v6, turbo converter(2800stall),.. Boom sweet setup!.. Still stock computer..Sent from my iPhoneThis is what I'm talking about, that's badass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRPVinyl Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Why not just let the computer do it at the exact correct shift point consistently every time? I mean a stock auto no, but a modded/tuned one with correct shift points will skull**** a manually shifted car at the 1/4, especially a stick shift all other things being near equal.This is what I'm talking about, that's badass. So you are going to drive around the car on the street with it shifting at 6000 RPM's? Track conditions change. Some nights you need to hold the Revs for a few hundred more. Some nights you need a few hundred less.But I agree an auto will out run a stick 95% of the time.matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaborRacing9 Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 when you decide to go fully built go 4r70w..... mine is a beast and really takes a beating in my built GT. you wont regret it.edit: also, even though she is built to take a beating, she is still very comfortable to drive on the street.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.greg Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I really want to one day own a car with a built auto, maybe not a trans brake, but atleast full manual valve body. On my bucket list of cars lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Well I've got a line on a 50k mile 4r70w. Thought I had a line on a REALLY good deal (4r75w, PI stall and all the auto swap parts for $1100 shipped) but the guy never got back to me, probably realized he could get more selling it separate, oh well. Anyway, whatever I get, going to J mod it, get a cheap stock converter re-stalled, put the biggest ass cooler I can find onto it and then enjoy it for this year and start the front suspension/turbo next winter. As for the manual valve body, I have been looking into that more. I admit that I am still pretty ignorant (but learning as fast as I can) when it comes to automatics. I was always one of those guys who HAD to have a stick and scoffed at automatics. Till I saw what a built one can do and how well a J modded trans can shift. Also the fact that a J-modded 4R trans with a good cooling setup and converter is going to hold a good 500whp which is more than the stock motor can take AND I can get one in for a good $800 less (if not even cheaper than that) than rebuilding my T45 to take the same power AND probably go faster anyway without having to worry about missing a shift... yeah... As for a manual valve body... I was unaware that you can have it shift like a normal auto and switch into manual mode when you want. I thought it was one or the other like when you put a manual valve body in, then you basically have a clutchless manual that you have to shift or is that wrong? More reading shows me that you can go with a manual/automatic valve body that lets you choose or a full manual. I would think a manual/automatic would be great, is there any downside to it? Would be great to still have manual control for the street but be able to stick it in full auto for a raped ape pull in a straight line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 (edited) skip the mach 1 ECU and go for the Baumann TCS setup. The (IIRC) Opti-shift has the ability to be driven full manual, full auto, or even manutronically controlled via the cruise control buttons. Not to mention you can actually TUNE it to drive the way you want.**EDIT** The product has been renamed to US Shift... Read the manual.http://www.usshift.com/downloads/4R70Wmanual.pdf Edited March 2, 2013 by The Mk2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADASS03SVT Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 what auto can you put in D with a manual VB and let if shift on its own still?? Manual means manual...auto means auto...thats why they are different. A manual valve body has constant line pressure and doesnt fluctuate with rpm / speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 what auto can you put in D with a manual VB and let if shift on its own still?? Manual means manual...auto means auto...thats why they are different. A manual valve body has constant line pressure and doesnt fluctuate with rpm / speedIf you are asking me, you misunderstood what I typed. A properly built automatic VB trans, can be shifted manually.If a car has a manual VB, it can't be just stuck in a gear and driven automatic style. That would be like putting a stick in third and leaving it there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330CubeGt Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Put a 4r70w in my cobra just a few days ago after breaking my 3rd T-45.Usd a 96Gt Computer, Computer harness from ECU down the pass. Fender that reaches all the way out to the fan. Used the 96Gt tranny wireing, tranny l, shifter etc etc. First crank of the key it starts runs and drives like a stock car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
330CubeGt Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 I Was going to go full man vb. But its nice to put in D and to and just raise/alter shift points that way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 If I can ever get around to selling off the almost $2000 worth of parts I have laying around, not being used... I'll be 4r70w swapping my cobra. I'm very interested in the manutronic shifting that the US Shift quick 1 offers. How cool would it be to drive a 400hp cobra with a pushbutton shifter?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottydsntknow Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Well I am well into getting parts at this point, waiting on a box of goodies from a guy who swapped his 16k mile Mach 1 automatic to 5 speed including the ECU... 3500 rpm PI Stallion lockup converter, 04 shifter, 04 cables, auto DS yoke for my aluminum DS and the 16k mile 4r75w. What I am still debating is:-Swap all wiring from the trans to the engine harness with 99-04 stuff (and a spiffy Terminator cluster) and run the Mach 1-Run the US Shift with my 5 spd computer and auto harness and let it do all the work after swapping the 75w tailshaft/housing with a 70w tailshaft/housing provisioned for VSS-Same as the 2nd option but with the 98 automatic computer doing the work after I either use an Xcal 3 with a bama tune (pats turned off) or flatbed it to the dealership to get the pats reprogrammed (not liking flatbedding it anywhere)This is, of course, assuming the 75w gets here with the bellhousing ears intact unlike the last trans they shipped to me... grumble... oh well insurance ftw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
