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LilRoush

Thoughts on cooling issue

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Basics: '98 4.6L SOHC with 230K+ on it. Solid runner, drive it over a hundred miles a day without any major issues. Cooling system is all stock except a newer aftermarket fan which moves more than stock CFM. It's on a manual switch that I run when I'm not on the highway. Never uses any coolant.

Last night on my drive home (FL turnpike @ 60-70 MPH), my temp started going all over the board - from where it normally runs all the way up to almost pegging the stock gauge. When I pulled into the parking lot at my place, it pegged and puked all over. Checked the cap to make sure it wasn't loose and dumping coolant while I drove. Not it. Next thought was the stock OEM thermostat is giving out. Picked up a new 170*, tested it in a pot of water on the stove and put it in last night. Flushed the radiator while I had it apart. Burped all the air out. Test drive got to temp and held dead on where it has for the past couple of years. Problem solved.....er, not.

This morning on my way to work (on my day off), at speed on the highway gauge started wandering about 20 mins into the trip. I figured out it was related to RPM. As long as I kept it 2300 RPM or higher, the temp stays down (at any MPH). 2000-2300 and it started to creep up. Under 2000 and it spikes within seconds (5-8 seconds to be exact). Tested my theoty on the ride home. Highway and city, as long as I'm over 2300RPM, it stays cool. Under that and it heats up. I do know it's not a temp probe issue giving a false reading because it does heat up enough to blow steam when the gauge pegs.

After dealing with pumps/piping for a shark tank at work, my thought is water pump isn't moving the coolant at lower speeds. Is it possible the impellor is worn down? There is no noise from the water pump, no leaking/drips of any kind. My other thought was a clog somewhere that needs the higher RPM to generate the pressure to push coolant past it and through the radiator.

Is there a good way to flush out the entire cooling system in my townhouse parking lot without drawing too much attention (since it's against the HOA to work on cars)?

Swap water pumps? (Jess, I need to use your driveway! :) )

Sell car? (Only kidding - took ten years to get it, no way I'm letting it go that easy!)

Thoughts?

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Is there a way to check to check the WP to see if it's good prior to yanking it off??

You can pop the radiator cap and see if you can see the water moving through the system. Other than that idk :/

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Cap is solid after double checking and I'm not losing coolant at all or getting white smoke in the exhaust like a head gasket.

Pump upgrade can't hurt - and if it doesn't do the trick, a new radiator will give me a change to upgrade that as well as step up to a twin fan set up that I've been wanting.

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The cap vents after so many psi. Ive had a thermostat puke coolant. Ive had a cap cause a geyser. I had inadequate cooling from a stock radiator on 575hp. I did a few cooling mods.

#8 intake cooling mod

03 cobra rad

Cxracing overflow tank.

03+ lightning wp

By now i have sorted some issues.

Sent by smoke signals

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I hate my car. Ten minutes to drain the systme, pull the belt, remove WP pulley and 4 bolts out of the pump. No matter what I tried, that sucker is STUCK. The downside is the best pry bar spots are burried nicely behind the M112 snout and the extra idler pulley to run the blower. Good thing I'm off tomorrow and can have at it again when the sun comes up.

Still looking into a bigger radiator /twin fan set up just cuz I have the excuse :)

Random question: All the books say 14 qt (3.5 gallon) cooling system. With it all drained out @ the lower corner of the radiator, I'm only able to put in a touch under 2 gallons when refilling it (at the intake/therostat port - and it's showing 'full' in the over flow contrainer. Is there that much left in the motor?

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I hate my car. Ten minutes to drain the systme, pull the belt, remove WP pulley and 4 bolts out of the pump. No matter what I tried, that sucker is STUCK. The downside is the best pry bar spots are burried nicely behind the M112 snout and the extra idler pulley to run the blower. Good thing I'm off tomorrow and can have at it again when the sun comes up.

Still looking into a bigger radiator /twin fan set up just cuz I have the excuse :)

Random question: All the books say 14 qt (3.5 gallon) cooling system. With it all drained out @ the lower corner of the radiator, I'm only able to put in a touch under 2 gallons when refilling it (at the intake/therostat port - and it's showing 'full' in the over flow contrainer. Is there that much left in the motor?

I've drained my cooling system 3 times and every time I was only able to put about 2 gallons back in as well.

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you can tap off the water pump at the snout with a rubber mallet, that'll generally break it loose. Wish you were closer, I have a spare Water Pump you could've tried to verify it was the issue before wasting your money.

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I fear tapping it hard enough something breaks. I gave it several good swings last night with a mallet.

Once I get Jaden settled in with cartoons and cereal, I'm going to head back outside this morning to see what I can do.

Gotta love ten minute car projects.

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I fear tapping it hard enough something breaks. I gave it several good swings last night with a mallet.

Once I get Jaden settled in with cartoons and cereal, I'm going to head back outside this morning to see what I can do.

Gotta love ten minute car projects.

if anything breaks it'll be the pump itself, the water pump is not attached at any point behind it, just the impeller is at the rear so keep giving it some good smacks!

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I am seriously starting to think I'm missing something. There's no way this should be an issue.

Coolant drained, belt off, pulley off, four bolts off the pump...hitting, kicking, prying, pulling, spitting on, swearing at..... Nadda.

In for a lunch break, then heading out for round 3. LOL

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I am seriously starting to think I'm missing something. There's no way this should be an issue.

Coolant drained, belt off, pulley off, four bolts off the pump...hitting, kicking, prying, pulling, spitting on, swearing at..... Nadda.

In for a lunch break, then heading out for round 3. LOL

probably rusted, get your BFH out and wack a pump!

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Well I got the top edge out about 1/8"..... then my pry bar snapped in half. This ranks right up there with doing a heater core.

Had to take another break. Was starting to draw attention from the neighbors and security....don't need the HOA rep knocking at my door later. LOL

Roushwaterpump1_zpsd5511ae0.jpg

Roushwaterpump2_zps1a07a8d7.jpg

Roushwaterpump3_zpse6ee7d48.jpg

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If I'm going to be seriously tracking in the Miami heat this Summer, I want it to open sooner. I'm guessing my current routine of on/off with the splitter panal under the car will evolve into "on all the time". With the extra length under the radiator, sitting in traffic means the temps creep up. The fronts of these cars aren't great for drawing in air when standing still. I saw it with my other Roush. I'm trying to keep it as DD friendly as possible while still being able to hang with the big dogs around the loops.

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Couple hits with my new 5 lbs sledge and the old is out, new is in, filled up, burped, test driven and working great.

And I think I figured out why the old pump wasn't moving coolant....

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fork me running i stand corrected.

Edited by SniveTroll
google police
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