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Brian

Battery cables

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So I was talking about replacing the terminal connections for the positive and negative sides for the battery but realized the best plan would be to replace the entire cable because most I've found have the new terminals connections attached to them.

My question is, where does the cables connect to on the other end (opposite side of the battery connection). And how long is the entire cable?

I hope this makes sense. If not ill try to rephrase.

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^i'm gonna agree with that. My power cable splits, one side goes to the starter, the other goes to the fusebox, and i'm gonna go with tony on the negative cable thought i'm not entirely sure

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That's a good idea, Steve-Oh. Really it's just for cosmetics because what I have now, IMO, look terrible. I am going to look for new covers since mine are broken.

Thanks everyone for the info. Most likely I'll take care of this when I take the engine out for paint.

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That's a good idea, Steve-Oh. Really it's just for cosmetics because what I have now, IMO, look terrible. I am going to look for new covers since mine are broken.

Thanks everyone for the info. Most likely I'll take care of this when I take the engine out for paint.

take the engine out for paint. dam dude you pullin an opal on homie?
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I actually looked into getting stock replacement cables one time. Ford has discontinued them, but some of the dealers still have them..... FOR $700. The best way to do it is to buy those already cut to length cables at the parts store. That way you don't have a ghetto rigged cable end on them. But a negative cable with at least one side ground on it, and resolder it to the ground that comes off the core support. Run the main length of cable to the block. But a short red cable to go to the stud on the fuse box, and then run a starter cable down from that stud to the starter.

Kurt

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I actually looked into getting stock replacement cables one time. Ford has discontinued them, but some of the dealers still have them..... FOR $700. The best way to do it is to buy those already cut to length cables at the parts store. That way you don't have a ghetto rigged cable end on them. But a negative cable with at least one side ground on it, and resolder it to the ground that comes off the core support. Run the main length of cable to the block. But a short red cable to go to the stud on the fuse box, and then run a starter cable down from that stud to the starter.

Kurt

Jesus, $700? Thanks for that info.

I might end up just reusing the cabling I have now whenever I pull the motor and just remove the current end pieces (connectors) and just clamp new ones on. It's really just the terminal connectors I don't like but this is all good information.

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Yeah, the parts man at the dealer was like "Hey, let me see if I can work on that price," and I was like "if by work on it you mean get it under $100, then ok, otherwise don't bother." I find it's easier to just change the whole cable. If you get a different end on it then you end up having something that's either bolt clamped, or screwed on. Either way it doesn't look right. There are whole generic cables at the parts store for about $8 to $12 each.

Kurt

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Yeah, the parts man at the dealer was like "Hey, let me see if I can work on that price," and I was like "if by work on it you mean get it under $100, then ok, otherwise don't bother." I find it's easier to just change the whole cable. If you get a different end on it then you end up having something that's either bolt clamped, or screwed on. Either way it doesn't look right. There are whole generic cables at the parts store for about $8 to $12 each.

Kurt

Haha, I'm sure I would have had some choice words myself.

That's a good idea. I'll just have to deal with what I have until the motor comes out then I'll be able to address the cabling easier. Although I do have to replace the starter here soon, I'll see how adventurous I am when that happens.

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Buy a Denso gear reduction starter and never buy another starter again.

Kurt

Do you by chance have a URL to the product? I was looking at the PA Performance mini start from LMR but I'm open to other suggestions like the one you listed.

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I switched to one of these in 2000 because my longtubes were heat soaking the starter. It has amazing cranking power. It never gets heat soaked either. It's more money than a rebuilt starter, but it's worth every penny, especially if you have higher compression, or longtubes. There are a few different companies that sell them under other names. Powermaster has a version of this starter also. Denso is the original maker of the starter, and all the brands are just labeling the original Denso. I found this link with a google search. Some of the mini starters out there are just a smaller motor on a straight shaft. Make sure you find a starter that is a GEAR REDUCTION. There are also some Chinese companies making crap gear reductions for around $100. Steer clear of those as well; you want a Denso product. It's always a good idea to call and make sure you are getting the right part number for your application.

http://lite.racingjunk.com/Starters/725285/FORD-SUPER-TORQUE-DENSO-STYLE-STARTERS.html

Kurt

Edited by revhead347
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Oh, and I tried everything to get my stock style starter to crank when it was hot. I wrapped the headers, and I had an insulation blanket on the starter. I tried running 2 gauge battery cables too. This is the only thing I found that fixed the problem.

Kurt

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