Catch can help

[smallblocksn95]

can some one tell me the correct way to put a oil separator/catch can on to my car? i have stock valve covers and a svo/gt40 intake. i remember someone saying something about a turbo coupe pcv valve. Any diagrams would be a great help

[64bit_Tuning]

mount it towards the rear of the engine, somewhere that you have space. Make sure it is a breather-less unit. Run a hose from your PCV to the catch can, and then from the catch can to your manifold (must connect to a vac source). Also make sure that you still have the hose from your intake tube to the passenger side cover.

[Brian]

Do those directions apply to any manifold setup?

[joekd]

Basic catch can install for ANY motor

Find current PCV line coming off valve cover, this will connect to a vacuum source ( intake pipe, manifold, etc)

Find good place to mount the catch can then route hose from VC to can, then can to vacuum source, done.

In this pic you can see the hose routing on my setup

[Brian]

I've seen some people run catch cans on both sides meaning one for each VC. I assume its just for form.

[Det_Riot]

I hate bringing up topics that we've talked about before but if you run lines from each valve cover to a catch can with a breather, then you have to block off the line on the intake tube and delete the pcv correct?

[1997cobra]

sounds about right, but why not keep the pcv system? It will keep your crank case pressure lower than a system with just a breather.

[64bit_Tuning]

I hate bringing up topics that we've talked about before but if you run lines from each valve cover to a catch can with a breather, then you have to block off the line on the intake tube and delete the pcv correct?

Don't do that.

[Det_Riot]

Don't do that.

So leave the pcv to the intake?

[Rolocut]

can some one tell me the correct way to put a oil separator/catch can on to my car? i have stock valve covers and a svo/gt40 intake. i remember someone saying something about a turbo coupe pcv valve. Any diagrams would be a great help

Since your car is stock ish, you really just need a small inline can with an in and out near the top so if it does pull oil/water it will fall into the tank before it continues to go into the intake. Pushrod motors are not that bad, 2vs are pretty gross how much they puke out. A line from each valve cover like on my set up to a breather tank was done because I have a carb style manifold and there is no pcv provision in the manifold. This should never be done when you have the option to use manifold vacuum to suck pressure. Lastly if I were you I would just put a new pcv valve screen and valve while your doing the set up, the screen does a very good job of blocking stuff from coming out. I would go from valve cover and pcv valve into the can and then one line from can to throttle body as a closed loop system. This would be a nice kit to have

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6631K/1986-95-Mustang-50L-Pcv-Valve-Kit

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram [MENTION=584]Rolocut[/MENTION]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1997cobra]

Crankcase ventilation is needed to take care of piston ring blow-by. This excess air passing through your piston rings from your combustion chamber to your crankcase is full of hydro carbons and bad for the environment and your crankcase, if not taken care of it will cause a pressure rise in your crankcase, blow seals, cause leaks, and the fuel will dilute your oil.

Since it’s bad for the environment someone thought it would be a good idea to put it back in the engine and burn it. The easiest way to do this by a vacuum connection on the intake manifold. The problem here is that just putting a big hole on the intake is that it will act like a big vacuum leak (which it is) and fuck up your idle mixture/speed.

The first versions used a fixed orifice to control flow like Mr 42, which is a big compromise, since the blow-by volume is also different depending on vacuum and rotational speed of the engine (rpm). It will really work at only one condition but will not cause the devastating air leak at idle. The opening needs to be variable, enter the PCV valve.

The PCV valve is a pressure operated flow controlling pintle valve.

Manifold vacuum will lift the pintle off its seat (closed) towards an orifice, high vacuum will move the pintle far into the orifice creating a small opening and vice versa.

Strong vacuum signal = idle, deceleration condition = little blow-by = small PCV opening = no upsetting idle mixture.

Intermidate vacuum signal = cruising condition = moderate blow-by = intermediate PCV opening .

Weak vacuum signal = full load condition = large blow-by = large PCV opening.

The PCV valve will also protect the crankcase in case of a manifold backfire where the high pressure will force the pintle against it’s closed position.

During really high blow-by conditions when PCV valve size is not big enough, air is also going through the breather hose into the air cleaner because then you also have a vacuum condition there that can be used.

source:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31741&showall=1

[MENTION=5]Det_Riot[/MENTION], something like what [MENTION=151]joekd[/MENTION] has is exactly what i was talking about yesterday.

Edited September 2, 2013 by 1997cobra