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Battery Relocation Anybody?

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I built my own battery tray and just got cables and a switch. My pos cable goes from battery to switch, then to starter. I took the stock pos cable and left it connected to the starter, cut the terminal end off that was for the battery, put a ring terminal on it, and connected it to my junction box. The ground I connecter to the chassis where the quad shock bracket was

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In a drag car it makes a huge difference, not just weight savings, but moving weight

maybe with the stock sized battery it's better to have weight over the rear, but I just like eliminating weight period instead of running lines to the rear of the car.

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maybe with the stock sized battery it's better to have weight over the rear, but I just like eliminating weight period instead of running lines to the rear of the car.

I'm not meaning weight over the rear, I'm meaning weight off the front. The closer that weight us to the pivot (rear axle) the better the weight transfers. Its like filling a5 gaskin bucket with water, and lifting it with your arm fully extended, then lifting it closer to your body. 30 pound battery on the noise of the car is more like 60 when trying to transfer weight

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Basic moment math right there! 30 lb battery 10ft from the pivot point is a 300 ftlb moment that your car is fighting to raise up. put it over the axle and that moment is gone!

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Basic moment math right there! 30 lb battery 10ft from the pivot point is a 300 ftlb moment that your car is fighting to raise up. put it over the axle and that moment is gone!

Bing, Bang, Boom!!!

Tapatalk made me do it!

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I wasn't going to say anything, but since MK2 has already been pretty abrassive I'll just add in some info. I'm not saying this to offend you F8L, but the setup you have doesn't meet tech standards for most race tracks. I'm just adding this in so that the OP has the correct information for tech standards so that if he does go racing at a track that enforces tech standards he doesn't have to redo it all.

First of all, the battery cable should be run under the car in a loom, not through the interior. Should the cable ground out, it is more likely to set the interior on fire if it is that close to the carpet. You also have to run the power wire off the alternator back to the switch as well. The safety crews have to be able to shut the car completely off from that switch in the back after a crash. Disconnecting the battery won't do anything if the alternator is still supplying power to the fuel pump and ignition. If you have a vented battery, it needs to be in an enclosed case, with a vent tube to the exterior of the car. Optima batteries are not sealed batteries, and do vent, so even they need to be in a case as well. Also, if you are using crimp on ends for your cable, it is a good idea to add solder between the crimp ad the stranding.

Kurt

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well, my car has passed both nhra and ihra tech. There is a wire from the alt to the switch. There wasnt in the pics because i still drove my car on the street. so at the track, I unhook my alt and ran solely off the battery. my battery is not in a box because my rear firewall is nhra compliant so I do not need to have it in a vented box

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well, my car has passed both nhra and ihra tech. There is a wire from the alt to the switch. There wasnt in the pics because i still drove my car on the street. so at the track, I unhook my alt and ran solely off the battery. my battery is not in a box because my rear firewall is nhra compliant so I do not need to have it in a vented box

I don't have a blow down tube on my nitrous bottle. NHRA let it pass because they said the rear firewall was compliant. However, the SCCA did not give me a pass saying that the rear firewall was not compliant, and I had to take the bottle out.

Kurt

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