3550 Fix up Job

[revhead347]

I've finally gotten the time and money to play with this transmission. Someone asked for pics, so I'm going to post them.

New record, I had the transmission out an on the bench by myself in an hour and 22 minutes.

Went out and found a large set of snap ring pliers to get the big snap rings out. Ended up having to modify them with the grinder and the file to get the snap rings under the synchro hubs.

I reached into the case to pull the reverse assembly out, and a giant aluminium burr from the case went up under my thumb nail. This is unbelievably painful. It's healing ok though.

Radiating cracks on 3 out of the 4 bolt holes for the retainer. Talked to 3 different people as to why this happened, and got 3 different answers. I think Bob Hanlon gave me the best answer which was "Eh, Tremec didn't cast the forward part of the case as thick as they should have."

Everyone but one of the large roller bearings was toast. All out of round and stuff. The front of the case clearly indicated the race had been free spinning.

One of the gears on the countershaft had sheered the woodruff key, free spun, and then seized again. Thankfully the masters at Southern Gear in Smyrna, GA, were able to get the gear off and back on again with their monster press.

$758 worth of goodies from Hanlon Motorsports. New 3/4 sliders, bronze fork pads, steel 3/4 fork, 2 stock blocker rings for 1st and 5th, and carbon fiber lined blocker rings for 2,3,4. Also a few other miscellaneous parts.

It's all apart.

The 1/2 slider was all burred up and barely moved on the hub. The 3/4 slider seemed ok, but Linda Hanlon said the carbon fiber blocker rings really need new sliders to be optimum.

3/4 hub all apart. The blocker rings were pretty messed up.

This is where the bastard snap rings are; on the 1/2 hub. I finally got it all apart, and I picked up the last part today.

Should have this thing back together soon. Just really tied up with other things now.

Ok, more pictures.

Finished with the bronze pads and shift forks.

The little grease castle for the reverse assembly prior to install.

Countershaft and reverse assembly in the new bucket.

Reintall of the 5th gear assembly temporarily for shim check.

Tail section deburred and ready to bolt on.

Bolted the tail section on just to check the play in the countershaft.

Right in spec of .0004".

Back to the output shaft. I have the big bearing and the taper bearing on. Just waiting on my new pliers.

Kurt

[Det_Riot]

Nice! What are you follwoing as a guide? Or are you just doing it from experience? What Bellhousing are you running with this trans?

[F8L GT]

Very nice. Bob and Linda are great people and very helpful. I ended up getting my shall ring pliers from McMaster-Carr. I hate the snap rings they use on these

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[revhead347]

I just use the Tremec overhaul manual as my primary guide. It's a free download in PDF from the TTC website. I've actually had this transmission apart several times. I've fixed a few on the side for extra cash, but not many. After this last failure I considered going to a different transmission, but everyone I talked to said I was better of sticking with this one. I'm just using a factory style cast Tremec bellhousing. I would love to have a scattershield, but I damn they are expensive.

Just ordered some new headers for the car tonight also. I have an old set of BBK 1519s. They are 14 years old, and getting really thin. It's like a desert breeze under the hood. I just ordered some BBK 15940 headers off ebay for $499 with free shipping. I really wanted to step up to a 1 and 3/4" primary. Hopefully these foxbody headers will fit.

Kurt

[revhead347]

Very nice. Bob and Linda are great people and very helpful. I ended up getting my shall ring pliers from McMaster-Carr. I hate the snap rings they use on these

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Bob and Linda are good people. They have a lot of good money savers too like selling the sliders off the hubs. They also sell the carbon fiber blocker rings for $60/each, which works out to $180 for 2,3, and 4. There is some guy selling the a quick shift kit on ebay for $499. He packages it with 5 carbon fiber blocker rings. What the hell do you need a fast shift for 1st and 5th for.

I used to have a giant set of snap pliers that I stole from my dad that worked on those snap rings, but someone stole them from me. They weren't ideal, but they got the job done. I just ordered a set of parallel plane pliers that I hope will work. The messed up part is that the older Tremec 3550s just had spacers in there. Why didn't they just stick with that.

Kurt

[F8L GT]

Bob and Linda are good people. They have a lot of good money savers too like selling the sliders off the hubs. They also sell the carbon fiber blocker rings for $60/each, which works out to $180 for 2,3, and 4. There is some guy selling the a quick shift kit on ebay for $499. He packages it with 5 carbon fiber blocker rings. What the hell do you need a fast shift for 1st and 5th for.

I used to have a giant set of snap pliers that I stole from my dad that worked on those snap rings, but someone stole them from me. They weren't ideal, but they got the job done. I just ordered a set of parallel plane pliers that I hope will work. The messed up part is that the older Tremec 3550s just had spacers in there. Why didn't they just stick with that.

Kurt

I agree. Bob and Linda came through for me when American Powertrain dropped the ball on my shift forks for my 3650 and left me hanging with a pile of excuses

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[revhead347]

McMaster-Carr is here in Atlanta. Damn. I ended up ordering these. Basically the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FCLI0C/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

Kurt

- - - Updated - - -

I usually go through Hanlon, but they were out of transmission cases this time. They crack so often, although not usually in the same place mine did, that they are on back order. I ended up getting it from Astro Performance for $245 shipped.

Kurt

[F8L GT]

McMaster-Carr is all over. There's one in Chicago and I get my order the next day. I wish you luck and hope you have no problems getting it together. I'll be putting my back together this weekend for the hundredth time. You know you have a problem when you can take it out in 20 minutes

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[revhead347]

Haha. I was told the same thing everywhere with the transmission. If you are making 700+ ftlbs of torque, then you better get used to fixing the transmission. I'm also on my 5th clutch, so that has made me a master at the transmission pull. I did a dye penetrant test for metal fatigue cracks on the output shaft, and found no cracks. I'm still amazed that the original 28 spline output shaft as held up this long. There's another money saver from Hanlon. They will bore your 28 spline housing to fit a 31 spline shaft instead of making you buy a Tremec 31 spline housing for $500+. Linda told me that 3550s brake input shafts, 3rd gear sets, and transmission cases. I broke those 3 things in that order. That's knowing your business. I did that via video for our company facebook page, and I don't have any still frames. Unfortunately I was shooting the video with a stand by myself, and it came out so bad I couldn't edit it into anything useable.

Kurt

[F8L GT]

I'm hoping we finally got the bugs worked out in my trans that I can leave it in without breaking parts anymore. I'd be happy if I just had to pull it routinely in the off season to look it over. Not 4 times a summer

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[revhead347]

That work you did on your 3650 was pretty amazing. I know that anytime you are pioneering a setup there are going to be problems. Linda talked me out of a faceplate job on my transmission. I'm starting to think she's right.

Kurt

[copmagnet]

I wish you would have done a complete dissassembly step by step. But good info non the lessalso, is this a 3550 or 3650?

[F8L GT]

3550 like the title says

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[revhead347]

This one is pretty good even though it's for a Camaro. Everything in there is so dirty, it's hard to get clean hands to shoot pictures. I wish I had a garage camera I didn't care if I got dirty.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?145931-Rebuild-a-Tremec-3550&p=1519919

It's a Tremec 3550.

Kurt

[copmagnet]

I wasn't sure if that was a typo, what's the different between they 50 and 60?

[F8L GT]

This is basically what 3650 internals look like

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[copmagnet]

And a 50 doesn't look like that?

[Det_Riot]

And a 50 doesn't look like that?

3550 have removable bell housings. I think 3650 are all one piece

[F8L GT]

And a 50 doesn't look like that?

You can see pics of the 3550 in his first post and how secondary shaft goes inside the case instead of the case slipping around it like the 3650

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[revhead347]

Two totally different transmissions. I honestly don't know much about the 3650s other than most people complain about them until they eventually swap them out for a T5.

Kurt

[copmagnet]

For a t5? Why would anybody step down ?

[F8L GT]

The 3650 is very similar to the t45

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[copmagnet]

You mean t5 out of like a fox?

[F8L GT]

T5 can be built stronger.

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[revhead347]

Most of the people I know don't like the 3650 because of the one piece design. If you have long tubes, you have to unbolt the headers everytime you need to pull the transmission, which is a huge hassle. With the 2 piece, you can pull the transmission seperately, then maneuver the bellhousing out between the headers. The T5, T45, and 3650 are all built to the same technical specs. That is to say, the gear size and bearing size are all similiar. The 3550 series, and T-56 are built to a stronger tech spec. The TR6060/Magnum T56 are built to an even higher technical spec, but they have engagement problems that cause them to break.

All the 5.0 manual cars came with a T5. The 94-95 5.0s had a longer inputshaft on the T5, but it was the same transmission. The Cobra came with a World Class T5 which had a few improvements over the standard T5. The 95' Cobra R came with a 3550.

Kurt

Edited July 23, 2013 by revhead347

[F8L GT]

The one piece design does suck. With certain long tubes you can remove the trans without touching them. I've been debating on spending the money to get a 2 piece bell for how often I take it out. Plus I'll have a sfi rated steel bell housing

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[copmagnet]

We didn't have to touch the headers when we dropped the 3650 out of my buddies cobra...

[F8L GT]

We didn't have to touch the headers when we dropped the 3650 out of my buddies cobra...

Like I said, certain headers you don't have to

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[copmagnet]

That was towards the post before yours. I didn't even see your post there.

[F8L GT]

How's your rebuild coming along Kurt

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[revhead347]

Just got off a brutal 4 day trip on Saturday. I didn't get home until 11pm last night. I don't think I slept more than 5 hours a night this week. The new longtubes and pliers showed up while I was at work. I spent some time with the wife today, fixing up some stuff, and getting ready to go back to work on Wednesday. I snuck out to the shop for a few minutes to try the pliers, and they work awesome. The wife works tomorrow, so I'll put a full day in out there tomorrow. Hopefully get the transmission all buttoned up, and maybe get to some work on the car itself done. I have a good chance of getting almost everything done by Wednesday if nothing comes up.

It's going to be real hectic the next few months. I just found out this week that I was awarded the most junior captain slot in the company. I squeaked in by one number. Problem is, the slot is in Detroit. I'm going to have to start commuting to Detroit for work, and if I'm lucky, be home 10 days a month. I'm going to have to close up my car business until I can get back to Atlanta full time, but that could be more than a year. I wanted to do a few things to the car, but I think at the point I need to get it driveable and not break anything else.

Kurt

[Det_Riot]

Just got off a brutal 4 day trip on Saturday. I didn't get home until 11pm last night. I don't think I slept more than 5 hours a night this week. The new longtubes and pliers showed up while I was at work. I spent some time with the wife today, fixing up some stuff, and getting ready to go back to work on Wednesday. I snuck out to the shop for a few minutes to try the pliers, and they work awesome. The wife works tomorrow, so I'll put a full day in out there tomorrow. Hopefully get the transmission all buttoned up, and maybe get to some work on the car itself done. I have a good chance of getting almost everything done by Wednesday if nothing comes up.

It's going to be real hectic the next few months. I just found out this week that I was awarded the most junior captain slot in the company. I squeaked in by one number. Problem is, the slot is in Detroit. I'm going to have to start commuting to Detroit for work, and if I'm lucky, be home 10 days a month. I'm going to have to close up my car business until I can get back to Atlanta full time, but that could be more than a year. I wanted to do a few things to the car, but I think at the point I need to get it driveable and not break anything else.

Kurt

Detroit! Hell yah! Where at? Are they providing you with somewhere to live? Congrats on the position, but I can't can't even imagine how rough that's gonna be on your family life. Will they pay for your trips back home n such?

[revhead347]

No, I haven't to pay all my costs myself. However, the Captain's slot comes with a huge increase in pay. I'm going to try and find a cheap crash pad or room for rent down by the airport. The closer the better. I just have to ride standby on flights back and forth.

Kurt

[Det_Riot]

No, I haven't to pay all my costs myself. However, the Captain's slot comes with a huge increase in pay. I'm going to try and find a cheap crash pad or room for rent down by the airport. The closer the better. I just have to ride standby on flights back and forth.

Kurt

Pm'd so I don't clutter the thread

[revhead347]

Well, I got the transmission back together, and it shifts really well on the stand. I am embarrased to say that I made a really rookie mistake. I bought 2 tubes of Ultra black RTV to put the transmission back together, and when I went to do it, I grabbed a tube of black silicone instead. I think I'm just going to let it slide and see if it leaks at this point. I didn't realize it until it was literally completely done. I'll have pics later. I got one of the headers out of the car, and the rest dissasemble back to change the rear main seal. I don't think the seal was leaking, but hey, while you are in there. I got the pilot bearing out as well. I opened the box on my new BBK headers to find that one of the flanges was bent on the end in shipping. I think I'll contact the seller with the pic, but I'll try and fix it with an exhaust expander tomorrow.

Kurt

[revhead347]

Ok, here come the pictures.

The Tremec manual says to put this seal in with a seal installer and a hammer. Unfortunately, I looked to the end of the internet for a seal installer that would fit around the dust boot portion, and couldn't find one. I know some of the older 3550s didn't come with a dust boot, perhaps that is why. Not sure if this is the old input shaft bearing or the output shaft bearing, but it worked perfectly. If you are ever looking for the right tool to put in the seal, it's definately and old bearing.

Output shaft going together.

Into the transmission.

Put the race in afterwards.

I always put the input shaft and bearing retainer on at this point too without any rtv just to hold everything in place. It's going to need to be there to check input shaft play anyway. Then on with the fifth gear assembly, and hammer in the roll pin for the fork.

Attached the top plate and tailhousing with new O-rings on the shift rails.

I always put a piece of cardstock down under the shift rails before I put on the linkages. If you drop one of those roll pins down in there while you are trying to hammer it in, the tail housing has to come back off again to get it out.

Linkages in with new roll pins.

It always ends up being 2 shims under the bearing retainer when I do this, but it's best to check. End play was .002", and the limit is .004", so that is excellent.

Something else I wanted to add a picture of. The factory exhaust hanger assembly from an SN95 will not fit on a Tremec. Most people just skip the H-pipe exhaust hanger, but my OCD won't allow me to do this, so I made these years ago. It's all stuff from Home Depot. The first part is two pieces of 1/4" x 1" steel with two holes drilled in them. Then I welded a washer on the top and bottom of one end of an S-hook to attach the rubber hanger too. It bolts up under each side of the transmission mount.

Kurt

[revhead347]

Transmission and headers are back in. The foxbody headers fit a ton better than the SN ones. Really glad I made the swap. I need to get the prochamber rebent this week to fit the foxbody headers.

Kurt