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Holley hp efi tuning and pictures

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Ok guys, I'm new to this forum but not new at all to mustangs. I'm sure we have all dyno tuned our cars. Paid 3-500 then found a deal on something or found something to change, well i was getting tired of changing and paying for tunes every two months. Then the efi tuning systems came out. When it first came out they didn't even make an injector harness for a ford, so I ended up re pinning the injector harness, came with 1 bar map sensor and Bosch wideband 02 for tuning. So next comes the install. All you sn95 guys out there, you basically completely clear out your passenger fender, maf wires, harness, ccrm, fan plug (yes you need to wire up a signal wire from the harness to a fan relay and cut the plug off your harness). Also stock ecu is gone and tranny harness plug is gone. Here's my passenger fender well with harness in

[ATTACH]2967[/ATTACH]

So we will start with tranny harness. There's 3 wires on the harness, you only need to hook two of them up to the stock wires on the inside of the car. Btw I mounted the hp efi box in the same spot the factory one goes. Then it just comes to swapping sensors so all the plugs fit. There's coolent temp, I put mine in heater tube/factory temp sensor spot, then air intake temp, goes in the manifold. Every efi manifold will have a spot for this, mine being a carb covered manifold it was in the back. Then I mounted map sensor on firewall using existing 7mm screws on that black panel. Power needs to come straight from the battery, mines in the trunk, ran wires right to battery terminals.

Well finally all done. I know I missed things, every install will be different because of how much stuff you still have stock in your bay and where your battery is.

Next comes the software.... So so easy to use. Open and see this:[ATTACH]2968[/ATTACH]

Usually you will click download from ecu but first timers ill walk through quick. Go to open global folder on the top. You get this ( well you'll get custom cals and base cals, rest of tunes are mine [ATTACH]2969[/ATTACH]

So go custom cals. Base cals I don't even know what they are. They are an assorted amount of huge numbers as file names, not real friendly to look at. So here's all the custom cals they have so far

[ATTACH]2970[/ATTACH]

Very broad. Not man ford stuff only the 302 turbo. So click that... So there's 5 calibrations to make your car work. The 302 turbo is not what you get right when you click. Also remember, need to tweak for your motor. Click 302 turbo. Opens up and your at a base screen that you need to get used to.

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Top left, fuel injector is fuel

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Next to it is sensors and it looks like a map sensor

next is holley efi looking computer box which they call system

Next a tachometer is called idle

Next is a spark plug that controls timing

Next is a pin map square logo that controls your inputs and outputs like electric fan, nitrous, and stock sn95 iac

The next is a sync button. Will only work when connected to ecu. To connect to ecu. With laptop plugged in, click USB link, it's above pin map button.

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So to tune. I recommend starting with system. Click on system button. Stuff happens

[ATTACH]2973[/ATTACH]

Ok so you need to know what wideband you got with kit. This tune sets it up for ntk which is the better one and has no manufactures labels on it and is a skinny probe with holes in it and is 193 bucks. Usually they come with holley ones which are Bosch which look like a regular 02... 92 bucks. Ntk is better and more sensitive, buy the ntk

Umm tell it what type of fuel system. Has many holley injectors already in computer calibrated but you can use any once [ATTACH]2974[/ATTACH]

Next all the system parameters will be in top left box

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Here's where you set up input outputs in system. Click in left box where It says basic I/o you set up fan so you don't forget [ATTACH]2977[/ATTACH]

All tuning is done by computer in closed loop. You can choose to enter closed look at rpm, tps, coolent temp, [ATTACH]2978[/ATTACH]

So when you told the fan to turn on at a certain temp. Below is another icon that says input outputs. You can use ground or 12v to power relay. [ATTACH]2979[/ATTACH]

Next go to icon on top of screen called pinmap. Cones up to this [ATTACH]2980[/ATTACH]

Those are inputs. Go to view outputs. [ATTACH]2982[/ATTACH]

Drag fan to whatever pin out wire output you choose

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Now go into sensors, choose what map you have, this is very important!![ATTACH]2983[/ATTACH]

Now the fun part!! Target a/f

Click on fuel then on the left top click target a/f

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All the guys with old stand almonds choose flow rate vs load and rpm. Now with this. You tell it what a/f to have on the rpm vs load and it will change itself to work [ATTACH]2985[/ATTACH]

That's base target a/f. If your n/a. Highlight all the points where it's 11.4-11.5 for boost and make it 12.7-12.8 respectively post-584-13881838831483_thumb.jpg

Next do spark

Click spark plug..click..

Okay base spark comes up first! Great now here we go [ATTACH]2988[/ATTACH]

Same thing. Shoot for 32-33 advance with n/a at wot which is top right graph. New spark table: [ATTACH]2989[/ATTACH]

Obviously the worst part will be starting the car. So find fuel again and go to start up enrichment, you need to try starting and see what it does. It will be better to start lean so you can use foot to start it over flooding cylinders until its dialed in. P.s. bigger the cam, less fuel it needs to start and idle

I haven't tuned a supercharged car yet. I will once my car is back together in a month or two.

I also have a brand new mega squirt stand alone specifically for 94-95 mustangs brand new I didn't end up using due to motor being down for so long. It just plugs into stock harness so you can run mass air but tune it real time better then the SCT chips most people have in there car. [ATTACH]2990[/ATTACH]

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Man. This makes tuning look like its not so hard after all........excited to see the rest of these posts!

Tuning is a bitch for about 2 days until you know the software. Then it's easy with basic knowledge. It's amazing how good it works and how good you feel after all the bs you go through. I had a huge cam car which was a cunt to tune and start. Most people will start on that base tune or just subtract a little starting fuel and you will start and as long as you feed it the correct target a/f, car will make that happen.... Side note. Long tubes mess up a/f readings. My car idles at 19.5 to 21 to 1 a/f And cruises around 17.0 [ATTACH]2991[/ATTACH]

That's my target a/f table for 500 wheel n/a 352.3 10.5-1

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Well, a couple reasons. Due to the volume of air fresh in the tubes, it gets back to normal as rpm increases but under 2k, can't really trust wideband readings with long tubes. Also to help drivability and fuel mileage you can have 40-50 degrees of timing at cruise and run it leaner. Similar numbers to how an old vacuum advance distributor works. More vacuum in the manifold. More timing you can run with less fuel. Obviously my large cam plays a huge role in target a/f the car likes to be smooth. The crazy lean numbers are pretty much false readings that you make work until the car idles and drives smooth.

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Great write up. As someone who is kinda getting into the basics of tuning, this is great. I would suggest reading into some automotive combustion engine basic books as well. What kind of injectors are you running in your Mustang?

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Great write up. As someone who is kinda getting into the basics of tuning, this is great. I would suggest reading into some automotive combustion engine basic books as well. What kind of injectors are you running in your Mustang?

Holley 42s will be running 80lbs in a few months

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi

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And this system set you back... How much?

Compared to the $249 Moates QH, and the $100-$170 for BE/EA?

Me personally, I'd rather tune with a system that is compatible with the "big guys" at SCT. But hey.... If it works for you, GREAT!

This system is more for cars out stepping a factory computers boundaries

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi

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This system is more for cars out stepping a factory computers boundaries

And that is the kind of information which needs to be conveyed to the newer members that are looking for a tuning system. The "average" build seen here on this forum would not benefit from a system like this.

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And that is the kind of information which needs to be conveyed to the newer members that are looking for a tuning system. The "average" build seen here on this forum would not benefit from a system like this.

Yes and no. Obviously, this is a stand alone computer system, and it's easier to tune then any other one out there, any "average" builder would have someone else tune there car. This set up is what it is, I'm not trying to sell it or push it on anyone, it's just what I have, and I did a quick write up about it because its cool and one of the new big things, possibly the way of the future. None the less, this is leaps and bounds above the computers that come in foxes and early push rod sn's. with the learning, any temperature, any altitude will be adjusted to hit your target a/f.

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi

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I am upgrading to their Dominator EFI from an AEM PnP ECU for the 94/95. I want/needed more inputs/outputs and the Holley has that covered and then some.

I did a lot of research. Looked at MegaSquirt, Haltech, Moates, etc. etc. Holley looked to the best. More expensive? Yes. But fits all my needs.

Nice write up. I will probably be revisiting it when my time to install comes around with questions.

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I am upgrading to their Dominator EFI from an AEM PnP ECU for the 94/95. I want/needed more inputs/outputs and the Holley has that covered and then some.

I did a lot of research. Looked at MegaSquirt, Haltech, Moates, etc. etc. Holley looked to the best. More expensive? Yes. But fits all my needs.

Nice write up. I will probably be revisiting it when my time to install comes around with questions.

Yeah. I really need the dominator ecu now, back when I was n/a and spray and electric fan I was good for outputs but now with the blower, there's 3 neg outputs needed for meth and that's just not going to work plus I'm doing something neat by running a wastegate on a blower and that's another 2 outputs.... So I ended up using a reg stand alone aem meth kit so I can control boost with the wastegate through the hp efi insted of spending 1700 on an ecu

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram [MENTION=584]Rolocut[/MENTION]

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Yeah. I really need the dominator ecu now, back when I was n/a and spray and electric fan I was good for outputs but now with the blower, there's 3 neg outputs needed for meth and that's just not going to work plus I'm doing something neat by running a wastegate on a blower and that's another 2 outputs.... So I ended up using a reg stand alone aem meth kit so I can control boost with the wastegate through the hp efi insted of spending 1700 on an ecu

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram @Rolocut

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I have a hook up on parts (their cost +4% cc fees and shipping). The Dominator comes out to $1436 for me. Since I am going with it and it can data log any input, I am going to use each and everyone. Hell I might even run a ambient temp sensor to give the ECU that also to compare against IATs.

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I have a hook up on parts (their cost +4% cc fees and shipping). The Dominator comes out to $1436 for me. Since I am going with it and it can data log any input, I am going to use each and everyone. Hell I might even run a ambient temp sensor to give the ECU that also to compare against IATs.

Haha that's cool! I'll keep that in mind

On going project, 94 cobra, r block, tfsr225, hp efi, vortech ys

Instagram [MENTION=584]Rolocut[/MENTION]

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