ttocs Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have been painting my own smaller pieces now for some time out of rattle cans and after a lot of thought I have decided to upgrade to a 60 gal compressor and get a good set of paint guns to start doing larger pieces including my engine bay. So with all that and my current rebuild it keeps coming across my mind that I know I have seen people do a good job in their garage and can't help but wonder how far away I am from that/? How hard is it to get a good quality job in your garage? I have heard small secrets from getting the floor wet to help trap dust to grounding the body/chassis to reduce static build up but not sure if they work or would make things worse? How realistic is it to get a good-great quality paint job out of your garage with out much exp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRPVinyl Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I painted my Nova in a garage and it was my first step up from a rattle can, I used tarps and hung them on all of the walls to help keep the dirt down. I used a $15 paint gun from Harbor freight and the Duplicolor paint shop paint. My paint came out pretty good for a first paint job with a cheap gun and cheap paint. I think if I were netter at doing the body work it would have come out even better. The cleaner and less dust free your garage is the less chance for trash in the paint that you will have to get out afterward. I would like to paint my next car with better paint and a better paint gun and see what I can doGood luck with your projectMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted August 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have done enough with a rattle-can that I would not call myself a complete novice. I mean I know that 3/4s' of it is in the prep and I have sanded the fiberglass pieces I created like the gauge-pods smooth enough that with a nice gloss-black/cleared piece that there were no waves in it. What kind of cost should I expect in materials like tarps/plastic? If I am going to put the time into it I am not afraid to pay the $$$ for some good paint and a good gun but just not sure what I would be looking at. I would love to be able to say I painted it myself in the end but also do not want a POS when I am done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 i think a huge part of getting a super clean well done paint job is what ya do after ya paint it. the cut and buff makes such a huge difference. if i were to try my own paint job...i would spend a ton of time practicing on a large piece of sheet metal or a fender or something. then def practice wetsanding, buffing and polishing. enough to where i felt comfortable shooting my whole car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have done enough with a rattle-can that I would not call myself a complete novice. I mean I know that 3/4s' of it is in the prep and I have sanded the fiberglass pieces I created like the gauge-pods smooth enough that with a nice gloss-black/cleared piece that there were no waves in it. What kind of cost should I expect in materials like tarps/plastic? If I am going to put the time into it I am not afraid to pay the $$$ for some good paint and a good gun but just not sure what I would be looking at. I would love to be able to say I painted it myself in the end but also do not want a POS when I am done.You could probably go to lowes or Home Depot and buy the roll of plastic, which would be enough to wrap around the work area, and probably down on the floor as well. You can also buy a roll of brown paper there for taping everything off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 My best friend owns a body shop and when we were painting my car he always told me "Prep is everything!" Sanding and blocking will determine how straight the car is and how many waves you'll see in the panels. Other than that, pretty much what these guys said /\ Its also a GREAT idea to wet down the floor and the tarps before you spray to keep the dust down, the dust won't fly around after its hit one of those surfaces and keeps the paint squeaky clean. Not a bad idea to lay down a few extra coats of clear also for the final wet sand, just in case there are imperfections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted August 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Shane/slick(slicks wax shack) is a good friend and has offered to come and do the cut/polish for me. I have wet-sanded/polished before so I know I can help there and as it was said above I know what is done after makes a huge difference. I will be doing some minor body work in smoothing out the lines between the shinoda chin spoiler and the stock bumper as well as the S281 and the decklid, the license place line in the back, shaving the antenna and possibly one other custom touch so there really will not be a part off the car front/back/sides) that I will not be touching even before I would send it to a shop if I send it for paint. I still have the scrap panels around the side that I could practice on prior to the real thing..... The more I type/think about it the more likely I see myself shooting myself as well..... But then idunno there is a lot that could go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash473 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have been painting my own smaller pieces now for some time out of rattle cans and after a lot of thought I have decided to upgrade to a 60 gal compressor and get a good set of paint guns to start doing larger pieces including my engine bay. So with all that and my current rebuild it keeps coming across my mind that I know I have seen people do a good job in their garage and can't help but wonder how far away I am from that/? How hard is it to get a good quality job in your garage? I have heard small secrets from getting the floor wet to help trap dust to grounding the body/chassis to reduce static build up but not sure if they work or would make things worse? How realistic is it to get a good-great quality paint job out of your garage with out much exp?I've painted most of my car in my garage and it doesn't look any different than if I sprayed it at work. I just had to do more post-spray work to make it look that way. I'll give you some tips later when I'm on the computer. Sent from bored/stroked iPhone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Where's [MENTION=95]Forcefedhatch[/MENTION] he needs to be in this thread! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash473 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have been painting my own smaller pieces now for some time out of rattle cans and after a lot of thought I have decided to upgrade to a 60 gal compressor and get a good set of paint guns to start doing larger pieces including my engine bay. So with all that and my current rebuild it keeps coming across my mind that I know I have seen people do a good job in their garage and can't help but wonder how far away I am from that/? How hard is it to get a good quality job in your garage? I have heard small secrets from getting the floor wet to help trap dust to grounding the body/chassis to reduce static build up but not sure if they work or would make things worse? How realistic is it to get a good-great quality paint job out of your garage with out much exp?60gal compressor will do just fine. Just remember to get a water seperator. Basically you're gonna want to set up a mini-booth in your garage. Go buy some big ass tarps and tape/staple/attach them to the ceiling and make sure they drape down to the floor. Holding the bottom of the tarps down with bricks or something will help keep them in place. Wetting down the floor is a must in a garage. Not only does it help from dust getting kicked up but it also creates humitidy in your garage. This helps because the air is thicker so there's less dirt in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I painted my Nova in a garage and it was my first step up from a rattle can, I used tarps and hung them on all of the walls to help keep the dirt down. I used a $15 paint gun from Harbor freight and the Duplicolor paint shop paint. My paint came out pretty good for a first paint job with a cheap gun and cheap paint. I think if I were netter at doing the body work it would have come out even better. The cleaner and less dust free your garage is the less chance for trash in the paint that you will have to get out afterward. I would like to paint my next car with better paint and a better paint gun and see what I can doGood luck with your projectMattWhere's [MENTION=95]Forcefedhatch[/MENTION] he needs to be in this thread! lolIm here Sent via Galaxy S4 active.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schiffy Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Im here Sent via Galaxy S4 active..Yeah buddy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefedhatch Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 60 gal is good to go.. nice hvlp gun.. prepwork is everything.. especially with metallic paints. . The flake will fall into every deep scratch.. I always use a high build primer, andbwet block the car/part with 400.. .. lay my color in a tack to start then build from there.. depending on temperature and humidity, when the base is just barely dry/tacky.. lay a tack coat of clear.. then build from there..4-6 coats of clear.. youll cut 2 off with a 1k then followed with 1500, and if you wish 2k.. if you do go as far as 2k skip the 1k and shoot for the 1500 tgen 2k and save a coat for future abuse and clay bar useSent via Galaxy S4 active.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash473 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Paint/body work via pics is pretty much useless, there's way too much that can be seen in person that pics hide VERY well. Even still, here's my trunk that was sprayed in my garage. Zero dirt left, zero scratches showing even in person.- - - Updated - - -60 gal is good to go.. nice hvlp gun.. prepwork is everything.. especially with metallic paints. . The flake will fall into every deep scratch.. I always use a high build primer, andbwet block the car/part with 400.. .. lay my color in a tack to start then build from there.. depending on temperature and humidity, when the base is just barely dry/tacky.. lay a tack coat of clear.. then build from there..4-6 coats of clear.. youll cut 2 off with a 1k then followed with 1500, and if you wish 2k.. if you do go as far as 2k skip the 1k and shoot for the 1500 tgen 2k and save a coat for future abuse and clay bar useSent via Galaxy S4 active..Couldn't have said it better myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Sounds like its settled then fellas I will be spraying my first car then. Thanks for all the info so far as I can promise it is not falling on def ears. One question - everyone keeps saying to get a good gun but the only way so far I have been told to tell the difference is to stay above $100 and named a couple of brands. Any chance you could post some links to guns and maybe good places to get them? If you put 5 in front of me I could not tell the difference. I will be doing metallic paint since you said some guns are better then others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PRPVinyl Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 I bought my tarps at Harbor freight. the work great for the use described here, they probably would not hold up well trying to keep a load dry on a cargo trailer, but then that is not why I bought them. J ust remember in every car magazine there is a coupon for 20% or 25% off a single item at harbor freight, so it makes the tarp even that much cheaper,I did mine in a friends garage. I just wanted to be able to say I painted it myself, good bad or ugly. I am not saying my car came out perfect by any means. But it did come out decent. The paint laid down nice, it was the body work that sucked. I never claimed to be an expert there either. I did buy the cheap stuff to use just because I did not want to spend $300 or more for a spray gun and then another $300 in paint and then decide I totally suck and will never touch paint again. If I do decide to go at it again I will buy a good spray gun and much better quality paint.Maybe when Operation Cheap Bitch moves into the final phase later this year and I decide I want to paint I will try it againmatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiplash473 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 I have two of these for my spraying at home, a 1.4 and a 1.7. They work great and I think I payed $120 per gun.https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1920&bih=979&q=sharpe%20hvlp&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw&ei=DloVUvOQJoOGyAHH44G4Bw#fp=b1799cab8f4b289e&hl=en&q=sharpe%20fx1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallblocksn95 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Very realistic...I can't really add to what's been said already, but I do agree that prep is everything! Even on big private jets like I do at work lol. If you look up Alyssa's thread, you'll see that we painted hers in the garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
