How To: Wet Nitrous kit intall guide

[copmagnet]

I figured I would try to contribute to his forum, and since 330 cube hasnt done this, I'm going to beat him to it. This is going to be a guide for installing a WET kit from NX/nos or any of the other companies that have individual noids. NOT companies like ny-trex/ zex that use the smart box's. depending on your mounting location your install may be a little different.

This is a work in progress. I will complete it tonight when I get home.

Tools needed for this install

-drill

-self taping screws

-small and large zipties

-shrink wrap and soldering iron

-sharpie

-jack and jackstands

-punch and hammer

-liquid pipe sealant

-cresent wrench

This install may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Please read the threads posted by 330cube for supporting mods.

ngk TR6's or autolite 103's (or AR-103's) should be used for anything below 150 shot, and you need to look at your timing, the STOCK 96-98 tune is safe for 100 shot without retarding the timing any. (maybe more but I havent confirmed this) the 99-04 tune is safe up to 150 shot without retarding timing.

First step. order set-up. await for delivery.

start by pulling your kit out of the box. I took this time to put my brackets on the bottle (they are side and direction specific.) the stock NOS/holley brackets suck, nd should be replaced by a set of NX or ZEX brackets.

Take this time to pull everything out of the packaging and doing inventory check.

get your nitrous and fuel noids, fittings, and brackets out, they will both have one bracket, one brass fitting and one AN type fitting. Bolt them to the bracket but do not tighten the screws down all the way. Put pipe sealant on the pipe fitting side and tighten it down into the noid. This will help with ease of install later down the line.

I started with my bottle mounting. do do this get some self tapping screws from home depo. I used (will insert later), these are short enough that they will not puncture your gas tank, so you can just drill them right in. I found the easiest place was to mount it on the passanger side to kinda counter balance the driver. this later proved to be a mistake for me because of my horrible NOS brackets. so I have to insert/remove my bottle through my back seat. so once again, get some NX/zex brackets and this wont be an issue.

Note: refer to you instructions for bottle positioning. if you mount the bottle sideways, you have to turn it at a 45 degree angle so the feed tube will still draw in liquid nitrous under acceleration. I mounting it straight forward so i faced the valve straight down.

I started by pulling up your carpet and pushing your main line through the grommit on the right side of your trunk. this helps with bottle position mounting and determining how much line is needed. mount the bottle so the neck is facing the drain hole in your trunk and use a sharpie to mark the two holes. use a punch to start a hole for the screws to bite into. pull out your drill and bolt it down. repeat for rear bracket. note: if using nos brackets, you will not have enough room to wiggle a drill and the screw in to get the second screw because of the horrible bracket. the one screw is enough through and does not move and fully supports the bottle.

I then used a razer blade and cut my carpet to fit around the brackets, and cut a hole for the feed line. before doing this, make sure you want to. I ended up not liking this, but it was too late.

Note: it helps to screw main line onto the bottle. this secures the line so it doesnt fall through the grommit while your trying to start putitng zipties on it. I left about 14" of line in my trunk.

right outside of the drain hole there is a group of lines, this is your fuel lines. begin by using your LARGE zpties and secring it ever foot.

my line fit right in between two of the other lines.

Note: This part may be tricky and may require the help of a friend.

You want the line to follow the fuel lins all the way up, so when you get to your front fender well, you will need to pull back the plastic shielding inside and do one of the following.

-feed the line up for a buddy to grab and feed it through the mess of wires.

-feed a wire (I used a metal hanger) through the mess of wires, and secure the line to it and pull it though.

pull the line all the way through so that it feeds directly into the plastic fender lining and it not kinked or twisted.

Take this time to get some water. need to stay hydrated.

find a place to mount your noids. assuming you bought a normal kit with two noids and not a direct port or anything fancy, I suggest using the two mounting holes for a strut tower brace. it looks clean and you do not have to drill any holes.

I mounted my nitrous on the passanger and fuel on the drivers side, both with the "exit" side facing towards the passangerside of the engine bay.

my kit had some short lines, and It was very tight, but this will work.

I mounted my nitrous noid on the passanger side hole, and fuel on the drivers side hole. pull your main nitrous line and feed it across the back of the motor, flip it back over and secure to it the nitrous noid.

note: depending on how much line you left inside your trunk, you may or may not have enough line to do this, I did this mainly because I had no idea the line was so long. No pun intended.

SAFETY NOTICE: you will need to release the fuel pressure in your rail by unhooking the switch inside your trunk and trying to crank your car. its alot cleaner then putting a rag around the shrader valve and just unscrewing it.

once this has been done, un screw the shrader valve from the rail using a ratchet or wrench. put some pipe sealant on the fitting and screw it into the rail. attach the braided line with the RED an fitting and brass 90 degree bend and secure it to the back of the fuel silonoid.

At this time you can install the two 2' lines that run to your nozzle.

Note: these are not an fitting and require pipe sealant.

Determine location of nozzle, use the punch to mark the location and pull out your intake. One your intake is out you have two choices.

-Drill a hole in your intake, and use the provided tap to make a hole for the nozzle to thread into.

-drill a huge hole and use the two part fitting (the nozzle screws into this fitting)

according to the instructions, the first option is for metal intake and the second is for rubber/stock. I did the first option.

congrats, you have completed the first half of your installation.

next you will install the relay for the system. this is fairly easy and takes only 30 minutes.

start by once again doing inventory.

find a mounting location for your relay. I choose to mount mine of the fender above my fuse panel.

Note: mount it to high and your hood will hit it and break the plastic mount.........

the instructions are very straight forward, but if your like me and like having photos to show were to mount stuff, this is for you.

start by grounding your noids. take one wire from each noid (doesnt matter what wire) and solder the two tips together facing the same direction. (depending on how much wire your noids have you may no need to do this next step.) Get a 12" piece of black wire and solder it to the same part you soldered together earlier and use a shrink wrap to seal it. crimp a connecter to the end of the black wire and use the fire blanket ground on the right side of the engine bay.

go back to your relay and find the power wire. (it will have a fuse holder in-line) place the fuse in the spot and crimp a connecter on the end, I unscrewed the bolt for my positive wire on my battery and placed the connector in that, the tightened the terminal back down.

solder a wire to the ground on your relay and run it to the negative battery terminal, or the small grounding bolt directly in front of the battery on the frame.

Note: if you have a window switch, you will be connecting this ground to the window switch and not the frame. your window switch should be mounted in cabin unless you feel like doing even more soldering to add wire..

at this point, your relay should have two wires remaining.

Identify which is the WOT switch wire and run it to the switch. most people mount theres by there TB but I mounted mine inside my cabin on the pedal. its up to you to determine where you place your switch and how you route your wire.

crimp on a connecter and connect it to the WOT switch. crimp a connector onto a wire long enough to run from your WOT switch to the arm switch.

crimp a connector onto the end and plug it n the top pin of your arm switch.

you will have two more pins on your arm switch.

-one is your ground wire, it is NOT needed for the system to work, but is used for the LED to show the sytem is live. I grounded it to a random bolt under my steering column.

-the other runs to a 12V ACC. I used an "add-a-curcuit" from my local napa and used my radio fuse spot.

at this time you should have one wire left on your relay. this goes to your noids. slip a heat shrink over the wire (this is important) and solder the wire to the remaining two from your noids. slip the shrink over and seal the joint.

-If you did not use a window switch, congrats on installing your nitrous sytem. fill the bottle and enjoy.

-if you have a window switch, you have already installed the wire that connects to your nitrous relay ground, and should have 3 remaining wires.

-tach wire. in your window switch is mounted in the engine bay, you have to run it into the cabin and through yor dash over to your ECU. if you mounted it in car, you alo run it through your dash to the ecu.

pull out your scuff plate and kick panel and you will find a ball of wires, there are three sets, the wire you need is in the cluster closest to the firewall, it is pin #42, its orange with a white stripe. slice into it with a T connector or solder the wire in (I soldered mine in). replace the carpet (if you ran your wire under it) kick panel, and scuff plate.

-ground wire. this is self explainitory. I connected it to my arm switch ground wire.

-power wire I sliced this in with my nitrous switch 12V acc. wire.

Congrats, your install is done!

Edited July 31, 2012 by copmagnet

[ttocs]

much appreciated I am pretty sure I will be adding it when I come across the deal for a kit I am looking for.

Also about the nozzle placement, does it have to go ahead of the throttle body or could it be put into the upper intake?

[copmagnet]

if your using a single nozzle kit, it need to go before the throttlebody so it goes into each cylinder evenly, but they do make plates that go in between your plenum and intake.

[ttocs]

I liked the idea of the power plate but the price on them is just too high for me. What about on the throat of the upper(302) right after the TB that should be ok right?

[copmagnet]

honestly, I'm not sure. I have a 4.6.

you need to mount the nozzle far enough back that it spreads evenly and doesnt spray into a bend. you may have to google around and see what other 5.0 guys are doing.

[ttocs]

not spray into a bend, the whole upper intake is a 180 degree bend.

[copmagnet]

I understand this. but you want to bring it further down so that it at least has some room to enter the airflow evenly.

[ttocs]

does the power plates give more power or more problems being so close to the combustion chambers? What are its advantages and disadvantages?

[copmagnet]

it dosent give you more power (from my understanding) but reduces the time from spray, to hit. and it is a more powerfull hit.

I'm not a nitrous expert.