nitrous parts list?

[ttocs]

well I finally decided to do it and put some nitrous on my 94 gt. I found a 6" NOS bottle with brackets and a gauge, and a bottle heater. Looking at solenoids, There is a hell of a range in prices on new ones. Can anyone make a good recomendation on a set? I am not looking to do more then 150 shot at the very most probably more like a 75-100 so I don't need a huge set. I am also wondering what I should do for the hoses good/better/best?

One final question if I wasn't wanting to make a big show with a purge, where could I purge the line too to be more descrete about it?

[revhead347]

You can find most of what you need from these guys.

http://www.archeat.com/ARCwebTemplate.htm

They are right up the street from where I used to live in Port Orange, FL. Piecing together a kit is generally more expensive, but it is the better way to do it. Most kits come with an assortment of inferior parts to keep the cost down. Cheap switches and relays are a good way to get frustrated with a failed nitrous system. Are you looking to do a wet kit, or a dry kit? You'll want to find a good local shop that sells AN fittings, and braided steel teflon hose. Let me know what you want, and I can steer you in the right direction. If ARC Heat isn't the best choice for you, you can also try these guys.

www.dynotunenitrous.com

The purge can go virtually anywhere, but it is supposed to go up through the cowl panel in front of the windshield. Purging elsewhere is a good sign of a ricer. Purge location is based on visibility to the driver. The whole point is that you can see the stream of nitrous from the driving position so that you can determine when you have gotten all the air out of the system. The purge solenoid should be located as close to the purge point as possible. My solenoid is located under the cowl panel with less that 8" of copper on it to divert the flow upwards.

Kurt

[ttocs]

I just have not been able to find a kit that has all the pieces the way I want them. I want to clean up under the hood and I am trying to get everything either polished or black so I would like to find some black lines and ends. Switches I am not worried about infact I have one waiting in the switch bank I made a little while ago.

I wanted to put the bottle on the floor behind the drivers seat opposit the tank for the air-ride and discovered that the older NOS 6" bottles fit back there better and was happy to find one with some nice brackets. Found a bottle heater as well and so far I am only into it for $180. I am in no rush and will just collect the pieces as I find them at the price I want.

Is there anything specific I need to get in a window switch or anything I need to stay away from?

I would like to keep the bottle a suprise just for the fun of it. I do not race for money, just for fun so I am not looking to hustle someone out of cash as much as just suprise them. Sooner er later it will all be known but at least for a little while it would be fun. That is why I was asking about a different purge location.

[revhead347]

A nitrous setup is as good as as many options you get for it. You don't need a bottle warmer, you don't need a window switch, you don't need an automatic timing retard, but all those things make it work that much better. There is the old adage that nitrous is cheating because it's so cheap. A good nitrous setup costs good money. I have pretty much every option on mine there is with the exception of an automatic bottle opener. I'm not using it willy nilly on the street to race people, so I don't need that. I do have good quality NX solenoids, a good purge setup, and automatic timing retard via an MSD Digital 6, a window switch, a pressure gauge, and an adjustable pressure operated bottle heater. I also have the lines run through bulkhead mounts wherever necessary. All together, I probably have around $1400 in my setup if you include the MSD.

There are a few things you should be aware of. The nitrous bottle is designed to be mounted bottom side lower than the top side, with the bottom facing the back of the car. The pickup tube is placed inside the bottle to get the maximum nitrous out of the bottle with this mounting position. That's why most people put them in the trunk on specific mounting brackets. If you mount it any other way, you aren't going to get all the nitrous out of the bottle. It's really not that big of a deal so long as you don't want to do a bunch of passes between top offs. However, if you mount it sideways, you might only get 6lbs out of a 10lb bottle before it starts sucking gas instead of liquid.

If you use the bottle heater, I recommend you run the heater blanket on a pressure switch, not a temperature switch. NOS includes thermocouples in the kit instead of a pressure switch because it's cheaper. I tried that, and it sucked. It didn't keep it anywhere near a consistent pressure, and the thermocouples were cheap and fell apart. I ended up putting an adjustable pressure switch in there from ARC heat. It wasn't that expensive.

Still not sure if you want to run this wet or dry. I personally use an old school NOS dry setup. The fuel pressure booster in that kit actually works reliably, but NOS gets a bad wrap because their solenoids aren't very good quality. I rebuilt many NOS solenoids before I finally bit the bullet and put good quality NX solenoids. I've never had one fail, and they have a lifetime warranty. Most of these smaller branded nitrous setups are just using rebranded NX solenoids. I also run two inline nitrous solenoids even though the NX ones are pretty trustworthy. If one of them jams open, you will probably blow your engine before you figure out what's wrong with it and shut if off. The odds of 2 solenoids jamming at the same time is very small. It's a personal preference thing that costs a little more money.

I got all of my wiring stuff from this website.

www.wiringproducts.com

The only thing I didn't get from there were the relays themselves because they were kind of flaky. I bought OEM quality ones from the autoparts store. Be warned they are about $14/each, and you are going to need at least 3 of them with a bottle heater and a purge. I run an individual relay for each solenoid. A stuck relay is going to have the same effect as a stuck solenoid, and it's just not worth risking the engine on a $3 relay. If you run one relay for 2 inline nitrous solenoids, you've just removed the redundancy of having 2 solenoids. A good quality activation switch is nice, because it keeps you from having to replace the switch that often. A stuck switch isn't really a safety issue, because it's redundant to the wide open throttle switch. If the switch sticks, it will shut off when you let off the gas anyway.

Kurt

[ttocs]

good reading thanks. I will keep my eye out for a NX noids then. I am wanting to do a wet system at this point. I thought they were supposed to be a little safer?

I would not even consider doing it with out a window switch. I have been wanting to get my car back on the dyno for a tune after sorting out some ignition problems that bothered them last time. I have a 3 bank chip so I will get a nitrous tune on there as well - that would take care of the timing right?

[revhead347]

I believe that a dry kit is much safer, but if I try to argue that this will turn into a 4 page thread of discussion where you will have to sort through rude comments and redundant statements to get any useful information. Been there done that, so I won't bother. The reality is that you can get a good margin of safety either way. If either method had serious downfalls it wouldn't be used. The dry setup requires higher fuel pressure, which means more demand on the fuel system (i.e. more money in fuel delivery). The wet setup requires another solenoid which means another expense, and another opportunity to fail. I have never seen anyone put a fuel safety feature on a wet kit. I don't know if there is a way of doing that or not. Most of the negative safety associated with the dry kit comes from poor quality setups like the Compucar kit that sprayed in front of the MAF and kind of prayed that the computer would add more fuel, and the ZEX kit which I have no idea how it actually works, but I know a lot of people blew up their engines with it. Let's not forget the ebay special Cold Fusion kit which was a complete joke, and almost guaranteed to fail. The point is that most of these dry kits were built that way to make a price, not to actually build a better system, and that's why the reputation of the dry kit fell so low. I think buying quality reliable parts, and building a redundant system is far more important than the choice between wet or dry.

Kurt

Edited July 16, 2012 by revhead347

[Forcefedhatch]

Dry kit is ok as long as you have the fuel and tuning to back it up..

If not wet is best for a simple bolt on and supply kit since it feeds the proper amount of fuel with nitrous, just need a window switch so it dont puddle in the intake..

Sent from my iPhone

[copmagnet]

exactly, wet kit FTW...

[ttocs]

I am running 24 lb injectors and a 255 lph fuel pump on the combo listed in my sig if it matters in choosing wet/dry. Never heard about the problems with zex or the other companies so glad I asked. Again good info all around thanks for the responces.

[revhead347]

I don't see anything in your sig, so I'm really not sure what you have now. I was fine with just the 255lph in tank pump up until about a 125 shot. When I went to the 150 shot the pressure would bleed off, and I had to get a T-Rex inline to keep the pressure up. I'm running about 96psi of fuel pressure on the 150 shot. I think I'm running a .057" jet in there now, with 30lb/hr injectors. It was just under 500rwhp on the dyno. 492 or something like that. I would say wet or dry, if you're looking for 450rwhp or less then the 255lph in tank will be fine. If you are looking for more than that, then you will be ok for a little more on the wet kit, but you will have to add an inline pump for the dry.

For maximum safety on the dry kit, you ground the relay for the first solenoid through the wide open throttle switch. At full throttle the nitrous goes to the fuel pressure booster first which will spike the fuel pressure. You then ground the second solenoid relay to a fuel pressure safety switch. Just turn it all the way to the max of 65psi. Once the fuel pressure spikes, it opens up the second solenoid which allows the nitrous to travel to the intake. This way it makes it almost impossible (I say almost because theoretically the 2nd solenoid could be locked open) for nitrous to get into the engine without the fuel already being there. I know it sounds like a long and convoluted process, but all these things happen instantaneously.

Kurt