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arayray

Head & Engine Rebuild

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So I bought a set of 99 Cobra heads, I am planning to piece together a engine & head rebuild and do it all at once. I want to get forged rods & pistons and try to find a eaton swap to finish it off. I am a total newb to engine work and never have rebuilt a engine.. I am trying to keep cost down and plan to put it together myself with assistant from my dad and friends. 

 

My plans: rebuild the heads & motor with forged internals and try to find a cheap Eaton swap at the same time. I am not looking for rediculous power, maybe 500hp at the most.

 

So my questions are:

 

1. Can I get away with rebuilding the heads using OEM valves, springs etc?

2. Does anyone sell a whole head rebuild kit?

3. What rods & pistons do I need & what compression ratio is good?

4. Does anyone have a complete list of everything need to rebuild the motor?

 

 

Any advice and guidance would be very helpful. Thank you.

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So I bought a set of 99 Cobra heads, I am planning to piece together a engine & head rebuild and do it all at once. I want to get forged rods & pistons and try to find a eaton swap to finish it off. I am a total newb to engine work and never have rebuilt a engine.. I am trying to keep cost down and plan to put it together myself with assistant from my dad and friends. 
 
My plans: rebuild the heads & motor with forged internals and try to find a cheap Eaton swap at the same time. I am not looking for rediculous power, maybe 500hp at the most.
 
So my questions are:
 
1. Can I get away with rebuilding the heads using OEM valves, springs etc?
2. Does anyone sell a whole head rebuild kit?
3. What rods & pistons do I need & what compression ratio is good?
4. Does anyone have a complete list of everything need to rebuild the motor?
 
 
Any advice and guidance would be very helpful. Thank you.

 

What are the goals for the motor?

 

I'm not entirely sure how much differs from 4v to pushrod heads but from pretty much general knowledge here's what I can provide you with:

1. Only if you're sticking with the OEM cams as well. Valves you probably won't need to change. If you're gonna switch cams, the cam grinder will specify different spring pressures valve springs for the cams. 

2. It will likely be better to piece it together yourself then just to buy a full kit, some pieces are better than others.

3. all depends on what exactly you're planning on doing with the motor.

4. I do not.

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I just want a fresh rebuild of the motor but with forged internals so I can throw some boost at it, I am not looking to go more than 500hp. I plan to use my 96 Cam in the 99 heads, and freshen up the heads also. 

 

The guy I bought the heads off of said that the motor had seized but there was no damage to the heads, they also had the notorious head tick. I want to be real careful with these and just see if I can do a whole rebuild on them.

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Well its not gonna be cheap. At least not for the heads.....

There are 32 each:

Valve springs

Valve spring retainers

Valve seals

Valve guides

Valves

Followers

Lifters

Now you may not have to replace them all but I'm just letting you know. Stock cams will be OK and you'll need timing components. Have you checked the can journals for damage? Seized means low oil and that is no bueno for can journals.

As for a short block your stock crank will be fine.

Forges pistons are gonna be 500+

Get some boss 302 rods they are 150 from ford

Rings

Main and rod bearings

Main bolts jack bolts head bolts or studs

All the necessary machine work

Oil pump cobra pick up tube would be a safe recommendation

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Well its not gonna be cheap. At least not for the heads.....

There are 32 each:

Valve springs

Valve spring retainers

Valve seals

Valve guides

Valves

Followers

Lifters

Now you may not have to replace them all but I'm just letting you know. Stock cams will be OK and you'll need timing components. Have you checked the can journals for damage? Seized means low oil and that is no bueno for can journals.

As for a short block your stock crank will be fine.

Forges pistons are gonna be 500+

Get some boss 302 rods they are 150 from ford

Rings

Main and rod bearings

Main bolts jack bolts head bolts or studs

All the necessary machine work

Oil pump cobra pick up tube would be a safe recommendation

 

I haven't checked the cam journals yet, I guess I will do that to start. 

 

Here is what I have found

 

HEADS:

 

MMR (Modular Motorsports Racing):

 

Valves - $399 (32, not sure if I need .5mm oversize?)

Valve Springs - $69 (32)

Bronze Valve Guides - $179 (32)

Valve Seals - $99 (32)

Valve Lifters - $279 (32)

Valve Rocker Arms - $299 (32)

 

I will need OEM Valve Retainers though.

 

MOTOR:

 

MMR (Modular Motorsports Racing):

 

BOLTS:

ARP 2000 Rod Bolts - $139

ARP 2000 Camshalf Sprocket Bolts - $144

ARP 2000 Harmonic Balancer Bolt - $40

 

Don't know if I need anything else?

 

PISTONS:

Manley Forged -18cc Piston/Rod/Ring Combo - $899 (8.5:1 Compression, up to 750 hp)

Rod Bearings - $149

Main Bearing - $119

 

What timing components will I need? They sell a complete OEM replacement kit (chains, sprockets, guides and tensioners)

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I'd get the heads magnafluxed. That crack may go deeper then you think.

FWIW, I have stock valves with Comp springs and essentially stock cams. I'm running Ford GT cams. I was well into the 600 range with no port work or fancy valves.

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No need for bronze valve guides or larger valves, ARP rod bolts

You will want complete OEM replacement though reusing your chains isn't a bad idea.

As for the crack have that looked at it can also indicate the can journal is off so a line hone check wouldn't hurt.

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I talked to NA SVT about them and he said it is okay to have cracked cam caps. I am going to be careful with them and make sure everything is good when its time to rebuild. I put them in storage though, I will slowly piece together a rebuild for now.

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