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window switch borked

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Yup, borked. I want to test out the switch using my multimeter, how many volts to know it works? The drivers switch doesn't work anymore, the driverside passenger switch works sometimes. I want to know so i can be a cheap kid and get another working one from the salvage yard.

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its generally helpfull to know a little about the car such as the year but assuming its just another snive... The window system uses a funny wiring system called a 5-wire system where there are no relays and the switches do all the work in a master/slave system. If I remember correctly on the bottom of the switch the middle pin should show 12v with the key on, and then depending on which way is pushed you will see 12v on two of the other wires.

Now the master/slave system can make it hard to diagnose because if your master switch(drivers side) is not working it will interfere with the slave switch on the other side. Start with the drivers side switch and make sure it has power to it, and is sending power out of it.

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its generally helpfull to know a little about the car such as the year but assuming its just another snive... The window system uses a funny wiring system called a 5-wire system where there are no relays and the switches do all the work in a master/slave system. If I remember correctly on the bottom of the switch the middle pin should show 12v with the key on, and then depending on which way is pushed you will see 12v on two of the other wires.

Now the master/slave system can make it hard to diagnose because if your master switch(drivers side) is not working it will interfere with the slave switch on the other side. Start with the drivers side switch and make sure it has power to it, and is sending power out of it.

sorry about that, but yes, 1999 GT coupe de ville. I'll have to dig out the haynes manual to check out how to test it, any tips? Still new to this multimeter thing

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just ground one side of the meter to some part of the chassis, and then use the other side to check for DC(make sure not AC) power. It doesn't matter which end is which. If you connect it backwards it shows -12v instead of +12v which is the same difference.... Use the meter to each fo the contacts under the switch and test it with no buttons pushed, and then cycle through each one to see if you get power out on the wire. There really isn't much to be afraid of honestly. The only warnings about meters is do not use them to test airbag wires but even then it should not be a problem. Those wires are normally easily to see as they are wrapped in a yellow insulation and even have a tag ever couple feet telling you they are airbag wires and not to dick with them. With that being said I know one person that got confused on a remote start install and cut/connected/powered them up and still nothing happened. No it was not me that did it I was the SOB that turned it into the greatest practical joke that dude ever knew - I hope he has forgotton or its going to hurt when it catches up to me....

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