ademily87 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Started off only as a slight squeak. Thought it was rear brakes. Changed pads and rotors. Sound got much worse through the week. Now I won't drive it. No wheel play, 12-6 or 9-3. Jack car up and spin tire and still makes sound from only behind right rear tire. Anybody heard a sound like this? Discuss. Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01yellercobra Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I'd pull the brake caliper and pads off first. Make sure nothing is off center causing a rub issue.Misspelling brought to you by Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 Sounds like something dragging for sure or out of center. From my experience, wheel bearings sound like more of a womp womp womp sound than a dragging or scraping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 check the dust shields. Last week when I picked mine up from the air-ride install I got 5 mins down the road and heard the same noise. I shat myself and thought it was a bearing as well, called the shop and told them I was comming back with a horrible noise. Limped it back at 30 mph on the highway Because it sounded so bad. When I got to the shop the mechanic looked through the wheek, then reached through it and pushed the dust sheild off of the rotor and the noise stopped. He said they are so thin that it is easy to bend them in and drag the rotor.hope yours is that easy as it sounds the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reivaxtorres Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 From experience, that sounds like a blown bearing that's eating away at the hub. I would say take it apart and be ready to replace the bearing and the hubHave you lifted the car and checked for play? Any side to side play is a sure sign of a bad bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinschmidt1 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 That sounds awful lol.Id check the dust shield....maybe jack the rear off the ground and get the tires spinning to see where exactly the noise is coming from if thats not it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 yea I thought for sure my bearing was bad when he just stuck his finger through the wheel and poked the shield back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musturd Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Hopefully it's something simple could even be a cv axle on its way out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auto_x5.0 Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I agree with jacking the car up and spinning the wheel by hand. But you have to remember, you will not get that wheel moving at 20, 30, 40 mph when the noise comes up. I had the same noise on my explorer(IRS) I thought the bearing was going bad. It was actually a burr on the pads that I didn't sand off sitting down and rubbing the rotor as I drove. The rear hubs on those are around $70 for studs and all, abs ring, etc. If you're worried about it that's a relatively cheap hub assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ademily87 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) I agree with jacking the car up and spinning the wheel by hand. But you have to remember, you will not get that wheel moving at 20, 30, 40 mph when the noise comes up. I had the same noise on my explorer(IRS) I thought the bearing was going bad. It was actually a burr on the pads that I didn't sand off sitting down and rubbing the rotor as I drove. The rear hubs on those are around $70 for studs and all, abs ring, etc. If you're worried about it that's a relatively cheap hub assembly.Lol hub assembly can't even be bought in normal part stores and FORD (the only people I've found so far that can even get it) quoted me today at $318 for a right rear hub WITHOUT bearings. Not exactly a part I can just go to the junk yard and find. Also if you watched the video, I was doing much less than 20, 30, 40 mph. It even did it at a slow creep (like in the video posted in my first post)Yesterday I jacked it up and I noticed more play when I moved the tire 12-6. So I took an impact wrench to the spindle nut for a couple seconds (thanks to Steven I found out these cars have a habit of the spindle nut backing off a bit) and bolted everything back up and no more play and there's hardly a noise anymore. So this weekend I'll be taking it apart to the bearing to see if that's the ONLY thing it needs. Hopefully the hub wasn't damaged. I can get Timken bearings at the local autozone for $40 so I'll update this weekend. Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2 Edited October 9, 2012 by ademily87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reivaxtorres Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Lol hub assembly can't even be bought in normal part stores and FORD (the only people I've found so far that can even get it) quoted me today at $318 for a right rear hub WITHOUT bearings. Not exactly a part I can just go to the junk yard and find. Also if you watched the video, I was doing much less than 20, 30, 40 mph. It even did it at a slow creep (like in the video posted in my first post)Yesterday I jacked it up and I noticed more play when I moved the tire 12-6. So I took an impact wrench to the spindle nut for a couple seconds (thanks to Steven I found out these cars have a habit of the spindle nut backing off a bit) and bolted everything back up and no more play and there's hardly a noise anymore. So this weekend I'll be taking it apart to the bearing to see if that's the ONLY thing it needs. Hopefully the hub wasn't damaged. I can get Timken bearings at the local autozone for $40 so I'll update this weekend. Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2haha, that actually sounds like what happened to me, however tightening the nut only worked for about a month or so, then the squeaking came back and when i took everything apart, the bearing was toast and so was my hub, at least you plan on replacing the bearing this weekend. a few tips tho:1) the hub can be purchased from Ford Racing for about $160 from Summit Racing..... http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Ford-Racing-Replacement-IRS-Mustang-Cobra-Hubs/. not exactly cheap, but way cheaper than ford and its the exact same part. 2) in case you didnt already know, the bearing is pressed onto the hub, so make sure you make plans for that and know of a machine shop locally that can do it for you (unless you happen to have a press at home)3) mark the camber bolts so you can get them back in the same position when you put everything back together, it will save you the cost of having to get an alignment afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 was wondering what it was please let me/us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reivaxtorres Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 (edited) posted earlier, but i think because i posted a link it didnt get approved:my car had the issue where the nut came loose, i tightened it up and it was fine for about a month or so, then the noise came back and the nut was still snug. took out my hub and hearing tho.as for the price of the hub, yeah, ford is the only one who sells it. on the bright side, ford racing sells one too, for about $160 + shipping from summit racing. the bearing they sell as well for about $50 or so. a few things to point out from when i did mine:1) make sure to replace that nut that holds the half shaft onto the hub. my understanding is that its a one time use item2) make sure you mark the camber bolts before you remove them, that will make your life a bit easier and not make you have to get an alignment afterwards3) make sure you have a machine shop locally who is open on whatever day you decide to do this as you will need the bearing pressed off the hub and you will need the new one pressed on. unless you have a press at home, in which case that would be awesome. Edited October 10, 2012 by reivaxtorres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ademily87 Posted October 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 posted earlier, but i think because i posted a link it didnt get approved:my car had the issue where the nut came loose, i tightened it up and it was fine for about a month or so, then the noise came back and the nut was still snug. took out my hub and hearing tho.as for the price of the hub, yeah, ford is the only one who sells it. on the bright side, ford racing sells one too, for about $160 + shipping from summit racing. the bearing they sell as well for about $50 or so. a few things to point out from when i did mine:1) make sure to replace that nut that holds the half shaft onto the hub. my understanding is that its a one time use item2) make sure you mark the camber bolts before you remove them, that will make your life a bit easier and not make you have to get an alignment afterwards3) make sure you have a machine shop locally who is open on whatever day you decide to do this as you will need the bearing pressed off the hub and you will need the new one pressed on. unless you have a press at home, in which case that would be awesome.Awesome man thanks!! You're a life saver. Found em on summit, $160 for ford racing hub and $40 for the bearing. Googled those part numbers and found em on jegs for an even better price that ships today and only $25 for next day shipping so it'll all be here tomorrow!! Thanks again bro!!Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
