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Stalling when coming to a stop

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So my buddy is having issues with his car. His car is a 95 Cobra, 42,000 miles, Trickflow 170s out of the box, e cam, track heat, 70 or 75mm throttle body, 24lb injectors, C&L maf. He's got an sct chip and his car has been tuned by the top tuner in the area (same guy who tuned my car).

Well when he got his car tuned about half a year ago, the way he had his intake tube set up put the MAF just inside the fender well, and from there, a 90* bend to put the filter basically behind the foglight. Well when he was getting tuned, the car wasn't making power, was lugging and stumbling on the dyno, and when driving.

Well after chasing that issue, he determined it was the intake was getting too much air where it was, took off the bend and had it sitting just inside of the fenderwell. Got it the car retuned and everything seemed good, aside from stalling when coming to a light or a stop sign. Well after never figuring out the problem, he put his old C&L intake tube on thinking it was a vacuum leak in the other intake tube. Now the car is stalling even worse and he doesn't know where to turn for answer so I'm turning to you all!

I'm going to go over there, check his TPS voltage, do a base idle reset, and bring some maf cleaner, and IAC cleaner. Also probably pull codes just to see if it's throwing anything. His o2's are turned off in his tune.

Looking for any other ideas!

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In my experience those C&L mafs are best used as paper weights. I had one on my car when I did HCI because I got a good deal on it, and the car never ran right. When I did the 347 I stepped up to the SCT BA-2600 and it is flawless. From the sounds of it, your buddy's car hasn't run right regardless of the tune and of what you guys have been trying to correct the stalling...but the C&L is a common factor the whole time. I'd recommend ditching that and get a SCT maf, he'd need retuned though.

Edited by 95riosnake
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I turned my narrows off, and run wideband o2's and rely on that and map sensor for wot, but wtf would he kill the o2's.. That's crazy.. You can't rely on maf load alone, especially with a C&l.. Get a better maf, and turn the o2's back on.. I had a C&l and never ran right, went back to the stock maf and issues were gone..

Sent from my iPhone

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Well small update to this, I'll be over his house all week house sitting so he gave me permission to fix his car Lol we went for a drove yesterday and Maf unplugged the thing drives great, maf plugged it, it just does rolling to a stop and sitting and idling. I noticed he he pushed the clutch in the car rolling up to a stop with the maf unplugged, it will rev up to 1900 right until he stops then, the drop perfectly to 1000 and idle on the money. He tried a different Maf that his buddy had calibrated for 24lb injectors and it was exact same issue he was facing before. This is making me think its in the tune but is there anyway that adjusting the idle air bypass valve could help it out or cleaning the IAC?

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