SniveTroll Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 we are all hotrod entuisiast. in our endeavors to obtain maximum suspension and vibe-less operation we go through great lengths. Most make adjustments shooting in a barrel ... so here we go..noting marks with stock REAR upper control arms will get you a base measurement but very inaccurate measurement. *load suspension on a drive on lift or Leveled drive-on ramps. chock wheels. *obtain a pinion angle finder and notepad. *from the image above, you put the angle finder on the tailshaft of the transmission. Write down your measurement. it should be in positive Degrees.*At the rear of the car: set angle leveler on the pinion flange. record the measurement. it should be positive or negative. Note: "hypothetical" +2*(trans) + 0*(pinion flange) would equate Good results for pinion angle at +2. +2 or +1 is ideal. suspension movement will vary will in motion but not exceed those measurements.the driveshaft should transition well around +1*-shimming the transmission mount with washers will aid in finding the correct angle. -on a mustang and 4-link, obtaining the correct measurements will be adjusted from adjustable upper control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 i wonder how crappy my pinion angle is when i drive aired out dif nose is prolly straight down and driveshaft straight up. pay to play i guess- - - Updated - - -actually it's prolly the other way around haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 AWESOME THREAD thank you seriously! It is surprisingly hard to find info like this with pictures. It makes it so hard to understand what you are reading.Only thing I noticed, you have to have your driveshaft off to do this? It looks like its off in your pics but I'm a blonde when it comes to looking at a pic that doesn't show the entire area lol. I just can't imagine the rest of it lol.Oh and I've always heard that +3 is acceptable?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SniveTroll Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I done mine with driveshaft in. However i have a tko-600 and there was a flat portion on the tailshaft. I have a steeda spacer on the pinion. It had enough material to lay flat without movement. If i didnt have that advantage i would have removed driveshaft.Sent by smoke signals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SniveTroll Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 +3 is acceptable buuut thats taking in account if you have worn stock bushingsSent by smoke signals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I either read this post way too fast, or the information is not conveyed properly.The whole point behind setting pinion angle (for drag racing) is so your driveline will form a generally straight line or at a minimum, will have equal angles at both ends of the driveshaft during operation.Measuring from the end of the tail shaft is not always the most accurate method. I prefer to measure from the front of the harmonic balancer. Let's say that hypothetically, my crank centerline runs at a +6* angle. Different suspension components will behave better with certain pinion angle ranges. For example. Soft stock bushings are better suited ~3* negative from the crank centerline angle (CCLA). Hard poly bushings are usually best around -2.5 to -2 degrees from CCLA. Solid bushings do better around -1.5 to -1 degrees from CCLA. The reason for this is that under acceleration the pinion will try to rotate upward and these settings will get you a very neutral pinion to CCLA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Now, getting back to my car... With my +6* CCLA, and my solid upper control arms, coupled with poly lowers... I run a -2* pinion angle. If you measure the angle of my flange, it is actually +4*. But it is -2* from my CCLA.Get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F8L GT Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 ^ I agree. Heres another write up on pinion angles. Non the less, nice write up Sniveyhttp://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SniveTroll Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 MK i would agree to the Crank method if you were using a 1-speed gear box affixed to a straight driveshaft without yokes. Meaning no flex or movement. K-member and trans x-mount dictates the angle. Mine for instance: TKO-600 with stiffler's Mount is +1 angle on trans. 0 degrees at pinion flange. I have Solid Bushings except chassis side of LCAs(harsh slightly). however, transition from point A to B means i have a .5* to 1* pinion angle. i tell you what, its silky smooth driving after 75MPH . i have previously used 2* and 3* and it was not a good vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 So according to Baselines site, since my LCA's are polyurethane on both sides, and my uppers are solid on the body side and rubber on the housing, I should be running a 2* pinion angle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...