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Who can help me presevr a clutch cable for more than a week?

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This was my maximum motorsports cable when it popped on Thursday

Shitty right? Well I bought a bbk cable from orielly on the way into the show on Friday. Ended up swapping the cable on the trailer as we were pulling into the show. Everything was cool for about 20 miles. Then the shit went slack and I lost clutch function again.

Got to the show on Saturday and picked up a UPR cable to get me home. Well it got me home thankfully but not without some negro engineering. The cable kept on wanting yo back itself out of adjustment so I had to chock it against the brake booster.

Got home, messed with it some, readjusted it and it still feels like garbage. The inner viton must be breaking up and snagging on the cable.

So last night I ordered a Maximum Motorsport cable with the hope that they will hold up better. I'm gonna go get some header wrap and wrap the hell out of my headers and the cable to try n preserve it. Anyone know of any more tricks to keep the clutch cable cool???

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That's messed up. Do you have it routed correctly? I found the BBK cable to be the best fitting and easiest to install. I bought a Steeda one last time, but had to reuse the BBK bracket to make it fit with the longtubes. It sounds like you have some other problem causing them to brake.

Kurt

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What I think is happening is the McLeod bell housing I have puts the clutch cable right next to the header. Idk if the location where that routes is any different than OEM but I can't figure out anything else

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As soon as you said pushrod, all the horror made sense. Jus say'n.. Back to reality. I noticed ob another thread your cable looks as though it freely flexes alot. There should be a bracker that goes to frame rail. I have a lakewood bellhousing and it should be pretty straight forward.

Sent by smoke signals

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Yeah I picked up this thing from one of the parts stores..might be worth looking into since it was $7 I think..it's like a heat sock

yderabuq.jpg

Sent from bored/stroked iPhone

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im certain that there is something wrong with either your clutch fork or the bellhousing. The cable should come out at the bell and stay straight, not make a 30 degree turn to connect to the fork. your pedal feels inconsistent especially at the bottom. which i would blame on that angle. think about it, instead of pulling straight on, your pulling at an angle. so if you have to pull at x to disengage the clutch on normal car, you have to pull at arccos(Θ)*x with one that comes out at an angle (Θ). and to compound that problem, the angle is changing as to push the pedal in.

did that make any sense?

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It made perfect sense to me. engineering ftw. as the clutch fork gets closer to the bellhousing tab, the angle of cable gets more extreme.

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glad to hear you made it home ok , i think wrapping it and making sure its routed the best wayand straight out of bell will help , i have had long tubes for 12 years with no clutch cable problems

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That's not even fair troy =\ Well I had my long tubes for a year no issues, put the new bellhousing n crap in and bam 3 cables in like 2 months

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MM cable is the best out there. Their quadrant (washers included) is needed to align the cable correctly through fire wall. Thier website also discusses where to wrap the cable with heat shielding to eliminate heat soak.

Cableanatomy1.jpg

Clutch Cable Insulation/HEAT: LINK; http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Insulator-1982-04-P504.aspx

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Cable-Heat-Shield-1979-2004-P505.aspx

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