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woody

Project 96 Rio GT 5.0 Stroker

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The car came with MagnaFlow Cat-backs and Center-force clutch.

First mod was to remove all previously installed owner mods like chrome stick on emblems, etc...

Then I swapped out the seats for good used seats from my old 97 Cobra.

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This past weekend I installed tinted tail light, third brake light, new visors, new convertible drivers side latch, cubby insert under the radio, Cobra Hood, FRPP Hood pins, and rear wing.

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Got the new keys programmed and cut today. Home Depot cut the keys for free.

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The remotes where easy to program using the following directions:

1. Open trunk and remove the trim on the drivers side until you see a box that says anti theft on it.

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2.Turn the igniton to the ON/ACC position.

3. Find the plug with 2 terminals and nothing going to it. Its the only plug there with nothing connected to it.

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4. Using a jumped wire connect those 2 terminals....you'll hear the door locks either lock or unlock....that means its ready to be programmed.

5. Press unlock or lock on the remote a few times until your door locks start to work.

The keys where also easy to program. I only had 1 original key and was able to just follow the instructions to add a key:

On-Board Programming Method "B" for Ford keys (1996 -early 1998 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury)

If you want to initiate a new master key....

1. Insert new key into ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen minutes.

2. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder OFF and then back to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.

3. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back ON (RUN) position. The dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.

4. After the security light stops flashing the third time, the new key has been programmed into the vehicles computer and will operate the car. It has replaced ALL the previous electronic key codes and is the ONLY key programmed into the vehicles computer.

If you want to add a key....

1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.

3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).

4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.

5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.

Edited by woody
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Since I plan on getting new rims soon and the chrome is starting to bubble in some areas. So I decided to try DupliColors Black Chrome Kit.

Before...

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Old decals that the previous owner put on.

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Removed...

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1st coat...

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2 coats...

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3 coats...

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4 coats...

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I plan on better pictures in the sun and daylight.

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Well this is the Cobra Motor that was in my old 97 Cobra. I spun a rod bearing on the #2 Connecting Rod.

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- - - Updated - - -

Pulled more of the top end apart. Most defiantly oils starved. The cams are not damaged, nor are the valves or followers. The Lash Lifters were very dry and gunked up. Signs are pointing to failed Oil Pump.

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Pulled some more stuff of the engine. There is a lot of stuff to pull off before you can take the timing cover off to get to the oil pump.

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All removed parts are organized and bolts in labeled baggies.

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Had a friend take my Intake & Valve Covers to his work to clean them in his parts washer. I'm happy with how clean they turned out.

Valve Covers Before:

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Valve Covers After:

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Intake Before:

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Intake After:

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Side by side:

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I got the engine pulled from the donor car.

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The clutch was to the rivets, so will be replacing that too.

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Rotated the engine and pulled the oil pan off... Surprise... Shavings in the pan and pickup screen.

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#3 piston has a spun rod bearing.

http://youtu.be/J3efWS0Uutw

Time to finish stripping it and rebuild and upgrade!

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Pulled more off the motor today. Will be replacing the Crankshaft. The #2 Rod Bearing spun.

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#2 Connecting Rod Cap...

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That's not suppose to look like that.

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The damage to the crankshaft.

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Gee which one is the bad one.

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Got the engine completely torn down today. Now to send the block and crank off to a machine shop.

Didn't know that my block was a Teskid Block.

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Passenger side head...

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Passenger side Pistons...

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Drivers side head...

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Drivers side Pistons...

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Teskid casting number...

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Good lord that poor engine...Make sure you don't forget about the oil cooler as I'm sure it also has metal shavings in it. Have you decided on a piston/rod combo yet? Are you going to keep it N/A?

I'm scrapping the block and going with a set-up from MMR with Manley Pistons, Rods and ARP 2000 Rod Bolts. Will take me some time, but hope to have it done in about a year, so I can do a swap. Also doing a full MM K-Member, A Arms, and Coil Over kit.

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I'm scrapping the block and going with a set-up from MMR with Manley Pistons, Rods and ARP 2000 Rod Bolts. Will take me some time, but hope to have it done in about a year, so I can do a swap. Also doing a full MM K-Member, A Arms, and Coil Over kit.

Is the block ruined? That's an easy $300-400 in your pocket (atleast in Va) if you clean it up and sell it.

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Is the block ruined? That's an easy $300-400 in your pocket (atleast in Va) if you clean it up and sell it.

Not sure if it is still good. The previous owner was hard on this engine. I'm going to send it off to a machine shop to have it cleaned, honed, and inspected. Then I will know.

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Not sure if it is still good. The previous owner was hard on this engine. I'm going to send it off to a machine shop to have it cleaned, honed, and inspected. Then I will know.

I wish if had an extra Teksid laying around. If built a forged bottom end and slap it in my '98.

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I wish if had an extra Teksid laying around. If built a forged bottom end and slap it in my '98.

The engine came out of my 97 Cobra. It spun the rod bearing in June and has been sitting. The Ex wife got the car in the divorce, but I still had the engine in my dad's garage. She sold the car. So I decide to rebuild it for my GT and take my time and do it right. Plan is to keep it N,A.

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I wish if had an extra Teksid laying around. If built a forged bottom end and slap it in my '98.

250 and you can have a teksid short block with warranty from Luis. Not forged but still a hell of a deal

Sent from my MILESTONE3 using Tapatalk 2

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The engine came out of my 97 Cobra. It spun the rod bearing in June and has been sitting. The Ex wife got the car in the divorce, but I still had the engine in my dad's garage. She sold the car. So I decide to rebuild it for my GT and take my time and do it right. Plan is to keep it N,A.

Sounds like a solid plan... I'm doing a 4V swap the weekend of November 8th into my '98 GT. Buddy totalled his Mystic, so we're doing a heart transplant. Haha

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Sounds like a solid plan... I'm doing a 4V swap the weekend of November 8th into my '98 GT. Buddy totalled his Mystic, so we're doing a heart transplant. Haha

Sucks about the Mystic, but interested to see how your swap goes. Are you swapping computers too?

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Sucks about the Mystic, but interested to see how your swap goes. Are you swapping computers too?

No, I'm keeping my wiring harness and computer. I've got a tune from Luis (can't remember his SN to tag him) who's a site sponsor here (Ortiz Performance) he's gonna send me a new tune for the 4V, and I've talked with [MENTION=275]Blackmage[/MENTION] who's done the swap before to get all my ducks in a row. Should be fairly straight forward swap. Extend a few wires, and upload the new tune, start it up and check everything... I've already got the Mystic rearend, so this is just one more piece. Keeping it in our circle. lol

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No, I'm keeping my wiring harness and computer. I've got a tune from Luis (can't remember his SN to tag him) who's a site sponsor here (Ortiz Performance) he's gonna send me a new tune for the 4V, and I've talked with [MENTION=275]Blackmage[/MENTION] who's done the swap before to get all my ducks in a row. Should be fairly straight forward swap. Extend a few wires, and upload the new tune, start it up and check everything... I've already got the Mystic rearend, so this is just one more piece. Keeping it in our circle. lol

I have the Cobra rear end, Cobra brakes, and wiring harness.

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I have the Cobra rear end, Cobra brakes, and wiring harness.

I'm going to give the brakes back to my buddy and put the GT brakes on so I can clear 15" rims. My buddy offered me the harness and computer, but if I can reuse all my current stuff, we'll use the harness and computer for either my buddies 5.4 build, or [MENTION=145]PRPVinyl[/MENTION]'s 4V build. Also got a friend converting his 2V to a 4V. lol... To think 5 years ago we were all diehard 5.0 guys to. [MENTION=145]PRPVinyl[/MENTION] still is with his Nova though)

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I'm going to give the brakes back to my buddy and put the GT brakes on so I can clear 15" rims. My buddy offered me the harness and computer, but if I can reuse all my current stuff, we'll use the harness and computer for either my buddies 5.4 build, or [MENTION=145]PRPVinyl[/MENTION]'s 4V build. Also got a friend converting his 2V to a 4V. lol... To think 5 years ago we were all diehard 5.0 guys to. [MENTION=145]PRPVinyl[/MENTION] still is with his Nova though)

I know - the modular motor has so much potential. Just pricey to build.

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I know - the modular motor has so much potential. Just pricey to build.

It is pricey, but since my buddies and I are all diving into it, it's a little cheaper, cause we help each other. For example, the engine I'm getting on "credit" because I don't have the money now, but my buddy knows I'm good for it. The Longtubes and mid pipe on my GT right now, my buddy picked up in Georgia(I'm in Va) and brought them with him when he visited to save shipping money. He also found the PI heads I was goin to use if I stayed 2V.

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I just have to take my time and make sure the car remains drivable for the next 12 months. I use it as my daily driver right now, but will be getting another mustang for a daily driver next fall. This winter the major mods will be a rebuilt rear-end with 3:73 gears, Strange or Mosler 32 spline axles, plus FRPP drive shaft, new clutch and flywheel.

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Nice! What "took a crap" in the rear end?

looked like part of the mount was cracked off on one of the upper control arm mounts?

edit: actually nvm, i was looking at it funny. :P

I would not have been working in the rain haha, props to fight through that. i woulda just said screw it for the day!

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looked like part of the mount was cracked off on one of the upper control arm mounts?

edit: actually nvm, i was looking at it funny. :P

I would not have been working in the rain haha, props to fight through that. i woulda just said screw it for the day!

It rained the night before and was wet out. I was lucky and it didn't rain on me during the time I was working on it. It did drizzle during the time I ran up to the auto parts store for a torx socket to remove the ABS sensor.

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Got some more stuff today. Slowly collecting the little parts so when the spring comes I can build this.

Valve cover Gaskets

Intake Gasket

Throttle Body Gasket

EGR Gasket

Air bypass Gasket

Oil pan Gasket

Timing Cover Gasket

Oil Filter

Oil Temp Sensor

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