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SniveTroll

Stiffler's 94 - 98 transmission Cross member

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its for: http://buystifflers.com/1994-1998MustangTransmissionCrossmemberForAODE4R70WT-5TKOsandTR-3550.aspx

AODE, 4R70W, T-5, TKO’s & 3550 Transmissions

visually:

Its a tube design that makes it superior to the stock trans cross member. it has nylon bushings to snug against the frame. the nylon bushings overlap urethane bushings.

it has tons of adjustability from the frame rails or transmission mounts.

1. tube design and bracket

img0319nj.jpg

img0322nt.jpg

2. weld quality and powder coating looks top notch.

img0320zn.jpg

3. bushing design to prevent deflection.

img0321nu.jpg

img0318ft.jpg

4. spacers for pinion angle.

img0324lq.jpg

Edited by SniveTroll
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I am thinking about ordering one of these within the next few days since Matt (YSI363) and I are going to be doing my drive train install in a week or so and would be ideal to have this ready to go in during that process.

Edited by Brian
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What is the weight difference between stock cross member, and this piece? I don't remember cross member being all that heavy.

I don't see the weight being but a lb or to different. Not worth the money after buying a poly mount your near $200 for a tranny crossmeber/shipping

Heads up and ass kickin! Using Tapatalk 2

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the cross brace is 4lbs. im not sure about the stock. i DESTROYED the stock mount. the urethane mount from prothane sucks. the stock rubber brace is awesome.

Allow me to ellaborate.

the prothane mount i have isnt solid all the way through. the urethane is molded around a plate. unlike the stock pieces that have the bolt studded, the AM piece pulls the plate through the rubber and breaks loose.

Edited by SniveTroll
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So your saying i would be better off buying a stock mount? Im in need of a tranny mount my stock one is broken and I was thinking about getting a poly mount but if there not solid all the way through it prob won't outlast a stock mount...

Heads up and ass kickin! Using Tapatalk 2

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here is the STOCK 5LB rain gutter.

sam0519u.jpg

it was simple with dumped exhaust.

sam0514j.jpg

unbolt old mount and crossmember. mock in new one.

sam0516e.jpg

connect each side but dont tighten.

sam0515g.jpg

1 on each side.

sam0517f.jpg

sam0518rr.jpg

once its mocked. tighten everything. check your clearances for x-pipe.

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yes i did. hang the angle finder from the end transmission output shaft and pinion flange.

1 of those numbers should be positive. the other should be -X ... your mathematics should come out to 1 or 2* of pinion. this is formulated on a loaded suspension (drive-on) chassis.

your driveshaft loaded should be close to straight instead of cocked low or high at connections.

Edited by SniveTroll
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Keeps the drive shaft align with trans mission and pinion flange. Keeps it balanced.

Sent by smoke signals

Yeah, but what does do when it comes to driving/racing? ..and what does it do better than the stock one?

I am not trying to act stupid or anything, I am just curious thats all.

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Yeah, but what does do when it comes to driving/racing? ..and what does it do better than the stock one?

I am not trying to act stupid or anything, I am just curious thats all.

My question in other words is; what does this do different from the OEM crossmember?

Sorry if it was unclear before.

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