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My DIY turbo kit, for those who may wanna try.

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Well guys.. this us for the ones who want to try this, it will be a work in progress,take a few months, but for those that can't afford to buy a kit ( not knocking any one or our sponsors or anyone's means of living) I'm redoing my kit from the ground up and just documenting it along the way,With a price list of course, this is a full from scratch diy turbo kit, I've even decided to use a cheap flux welder because they can be had for nearly nothing(100.00$$) and to show everyone it can be done even on a budget..if you have any intention of reproducing this setup..

Also everything will be sourced from ebay so everyone can have the same amount of availability..

And once again this is for my own documentation, and not to reflect negatively towards any of our sponsors..

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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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First off get a muffler or your choice of catback and whether you want a single straight through or duals w/or without tips..

I went single magnaflow muffler got it for 50.00 shipped on ebay new

Then in purchased a 4' section if 3" straight aluminized 16g steel pipe from jegs around 25.00 shipped

So 75.00 in my diy catback..

Good idea is to go ahead and order your front mount intercooler with piping (eBay 159.00..31x12x3" core with 2.5" piping)and use the piping as a mockup of your exhaust bends.. Atleast up to the trans cross member..



Next post will be turbo selection and why.. I just did this in this order because I had parts on hand lol..

So 75.00 for catback

And roughly 159.00 for intercooler kit

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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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Also what to go ahead and consider is oil feed lines fittings etc..

Ice found them in eBay in stainless braid with oil restrictor(always recommended) for roughly 20.00, and same for the return lines and fittings.


40.00 for oil related fittings.

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Ok I'm going to post every item I buy as a snapshot from eBay for the following reasons..

1) to show actual price for everyone to keep track.

2)to show what eBay venders are trust worthy..

I know buying "Ebay" items are negatively looked upon, but remember EBay does not make the items, they are just middlemen in the transaction.. So I will teach you the way of "THE EBAY" ( super voice) lol..

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Ok trusted purchase able, and parts ive personally used..

Exhaust straight, aluminized 16g


Exhaust mandrel bends/downpipe bends. Also aluminized 16g


Cross over bends, aluminized 16g 2.5"



Vbands for cross over( I have an awesome sealing trick to show you later in the build, no vband sealing issues ever again!) oh and x2 for both sides of the crossover.


Turbo t4 twin scroll flange( or non divided t4,depends on your choice of turbochargers.)


Oil feed and return lines and fittings, great stuff and deal!


Other great sellers are :: wyntonnm,and VSracing(also part of the turbo forums if more info is needed)

Ill have more items up soon..

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Also something that is very helpful, Andalusia creating your first kit very forgiving if your angles aren't just right on the crossover( alot of people have trouble after final welding and metal expansion and shrinkage causing leaks at the crossover vbands.)

Well worth it's weight in gold!


And of course your going to flip your headers, of you have aftermarket and don't want to destroy them you have two options.

1) sell them because vbands will be welded in the place of the ball flanges.

2) if you don't mind hacking your h/x pipe cut those flanges off and use them to bolt up to your headers and skip using vbands on the crossover all together.. I've seen either way with no mega tatted effects.. Also if you decide to keep your dual exhaust instead of the single, you can use the bends in the top half of your h/x pipe to make a 3" to dual 2.5" Y pipe to bolt to your dual exhaust with no major modifications.. Something to think about before you start hacking it up.. Think long term goal and interchangeability.. And ease of parts replace my as some may wear out over time/ many 1000's of miles.

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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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Ok these are the bov, similar wastegate I currently have.. But ill include them to reflect cost.. I also did purchase the real tial wastegate small green spring, in a 46mm wastegate it equals about 5 psi.


The reason I chose these were simply because they've been proven many times on the turbo forums with years of support, plus if they fail, real tial parts will fit in them to authenticate more durability..

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My megasquirt was 209.00$ for the ms1 kit , I assembled it( took 14 hours lol, but works great!)

89.00 for the wiring harness

Tuning software was free

Injectors 42lb.. 300.00(new bosch)

Walbro 255 pump(100.00$ shipped)

Wideband 189.99 prosport/w bung

Grand total 1775.98$ complete everything!!

And to up the ante this will all be fine with hand tools, sawzall, 4" grinder, cordless drill..just 100% basics and easy obtainable tools! The more you have the better! The better the tools, the better the outcome!

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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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Vehicles this turbocharger is equipped in..

Stock bottom end 5.0, gt40 heads on e85 making 501 rwhp

Ls1 SS camaro low boost

And my favorite lol.. Only he listed the turbo as a 67mm it's actually 69.36 or so mm lol, but with a launch like this who gives a shit lol..

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Edited by Brian
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Thanks guys!..

Well I clocked the turbo today( rotated the housings)for mock up, and I'm going to use alot of my old turbo kits parts so ill just use reference pictures for making those parts.. Ill be putting up more pics today or Tom..

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Well got home and instantly went to the garage, I cut the old turbine inlet pipe at an angle to allow for better fitment of the turbo, after finding the angle I wanted the turbo to be at+ the angle at which I wanted the oil return line to flow+ leave enough room for air flow in front if the compressor+ leave enough room for the assy of the new fender well sheet metal after the turbos final welding..

After I was happy I used a piece of 45* mandrel 2.5" to meet my old kits old flang assy, and welded the new t4 flange to it, here it is all angled properly and ready for test fitting.



And here is how the turbo will sit in the engine bay, everything is just cracked in place for now..


Ill grab some sample pics of a turbo kits fabrication and bends to duplicate mine as much as possible, it's hard to picture mine until it comes off for final welding.. Ill get samples up ASAP to show how I got to the point I'm at.. I know this seems like a huge jump and it is.. By ill get you all up to speed very soon!

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Yeah, bigger turbo for one lol, and I'm going to get it street legal(salvaged title) so the turbo I had in there was a holset from a cummins diesel, I didnt have a receipt for it, and I am covering all my bases before inspection by the highway patrol.. My luck they would run a vin check and something would come back hottt! Lol.. So better safe than sorry and buy new with a receipt, better than having the car confiscated, stripped, and in left with reassembly.. Plus the turbo was so big being from a diesel that I had to chop alot of sheet metal out of the engine bay. Now ill be able to re sheet metal it all, clean up the engine bay, plus it gave me an excuse for the wife to let me buy more shit for my now 4 year project... My goal is street legal by spring!

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I am no one to judge your work or craftmanship and I think you are doing an amazing job on this. So don't take this the wrong way, I am just asking because I am curious.

But is there a reason to why you have placed the turbo on the passenger side?

I ask because, to my eyes it would be more logical to relocate the battery and place the turbo on the drivers side.

Reason being that the upper intake draws air from the passenger side and for the air to run through an intercooler it would run like so:

(excuse my paintshop skills)


like this setup here (except here it goes from the passenger side to the drivers side, but same princip):


Sorry if you already answered this in a previous post, I just missed it if you did.

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Very good question!! And to answer it the first turbo kit I built it was that way!



And everything was great except one thing .. Exhaust routing !! I couldn't squeeze a 3.5" downpipe by the master cylinder, headers and firewall.. I had to step down to 3" and even then it hit everything, knocked on this,that,and anything else.. So I could make an actual exhaust without notching the firewall, and spacing the master cylinder, etc.. And even then I didn't know if it would fit.. So I just redesigned it. Awesome to bring that up, and thank you!!

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Ok guys, now that we have the turbos mounting position we gotta tack it in place, and while I'm at it I had to hack my old support bracket, so well throw a small piece of rod stock on there as well.. The rod stock slides into the square tubing and is tacked into place, as well as tack into a spot that won't be in the way of bolts or turbo mounting hardware.. Plus at the upward angle it'll add a triangulated strength to the manifold as a whole..dapy2eje.jpg


And yes before the comments start coming in.. I know it's very ugly, but with a flux welder, and a few extra bends I had laying around, I cut cost and time dramatically, plus when the welds are ground down, painted, wrapped in spots.. And the engine bay sheet metal is installed and painted.. She's going to look like a million bucks!!

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Oil pan tapping!! Best tools you'll ever buy!! And cheap..(15.99)



On a 5.0 oil pan.. 2" down from the seal, and 2.5" back from the harmonic balancer end..

Start with a small punch..

Make your mark, drill through pan with a

3/8" drill bit( slow speed !!, tip of bit and 1"" inward covered with wheel bearing grease to catch as many shavings as possible)

Then with a large brass punch punch into the pan to create an inward lip( folding some of the pans steel back for an area to cut threads into.)

Once hole size is big enough

Tap threads with 1/2" npt tap..

This is the best oil drain fitting I've used that's easily accessible, and is for the people who wish not to weld a -10 onto the pan..


This is not what I'm using since mine's already tapped from years ago, but this is a spare ive had for a while..

And this is what you'll use as a return line, once again easily accessible and easy to use, plus it's cheap!


And it will mate good to this turbo drain fitting for any t3/t4,t4 drain style turbocharger..


These work just fine for drain systems using oil restrictors for oil feed to prevent oil deal rupture under high oil pressure loads especially from idle to launch

Once again a garret 1.5-2mm -4 orfice is perfect to use.. I always have and never had a turbo seal go bad..

Two styles



Either will work just depends on your feed supply, and angles of your feed lines..

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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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Now oil return boggles alot of people, and it should if you care about your car!!

Oil being sprayed all over it would suck, plus if it isn't angled right, it'll back oil into the turbo and kill the oil seals.. Even if you buy a B&G hotside kit, 9x our of 10 you are left with the decision of either a small 30-45* angle in the feed line from the turbo, or what most people do is, drill into the frame rail with a 1 or 1 1/4" hole saw and run the oil return line that way, what I normally do is use a very small angled fitting, or clock the center housing either into or out of the engine bay for the oil return to sort of run around the issue, just remember to use the straightest, shortest distance to the oil pan as possible without any major obstructions!

In my personal setup.. Oil return runs on the outside edge if the frame rail, so ill be running it from outside the frame to the pan from under neath


Notice the center position of the turbo is at the outer edge of the frame here.. The reason for this was to think ahead and simply cock the center housing a gain into the fender well, and eliminate the headaches of the oil return routing problem all together

Frame edge


Turbo center section center using my hand as a visual frame guide, you can see which way I'm going to clock the turbo to avoid having frame interference..


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Well as promised got a few snapshots of another holset powered turbo mustang for the kits fabrication samples.. This one is being built by the method I spoke of by keeping the ball flanges instead of chopping the headers for vbands..

Header with other flange end for pipe connection( crossover, wg, etc)


Making of the turbo inlet flange collector, (3" pipe stock works wonders!)


Using your bends and positioning them one by one to get the turbo placement where you want it.


Tacking it together



More test fitment, you will literally install and remove your turbo about 10000x's lol just to get it the way you want it before you do final welding


Now make your crossover by nearly just connecting your drivers bolted up ball socket flanges to your flex section, then your flex section to your passengers header to also be used as a merge connection( make sure when you do this to make the exhaust flow path in the same direction as the passengers header, make them both flow into the turbo!, if not it will create turbulence in the manifolds and drastically effect spool time and back pressure Pre turbo!)

Also extremely important!! Make sure your manifolds are tight before you fab up your turbo position and crossover pipes!!, if not when you do final installation you will come up short somewhere, I know from personal experience!yrutadu6.jpg

Note also his choice if wastegate placement, this works just fine, but if you want it quiter when the wastegate opens up, move the wastegate position closer to the merge so you can then integrate it into the exhaust AFTER tge turbocharger. Wastegate integration is nice, but can creat extra underhood unwanted temps, I just vent mine atmospheric in my crossover as shown..


After its all mocked up, it's downpipe mock up and fabrication time.


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Edited by Forcefedhatch
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