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Det_Riot

General Rear End Tech

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I know i know, search online blah blah but I want to have the information from actually experiences.

What rear differentials/axles/clutch packs offer the best street performance? Strip? Twisties?

This relates to me because i know my rear end is gonna fail out soon as i've always started the unfortunate one wheel peel and while I could just get a rebuild kit, I know that something more serious probably isnt far down the line.

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Locker is the best option for just about any ap. No worries about failed clutches or limited slip junk.$400-$600 give or take for a decent locker.31 spline axles are a nice upgrade aswell while your at it. And a nice T/A or similar diff girtle would be sweet... Ive built a few 8.8 rears so if you need any random questioms answered shoot me a pm anytime.

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My Detroit TruTrak is a Limited Slip Diff or so the paperwork says? I guess they just label it that way.

My vote goes to exactly what I put in mine Bryan. Check my lack of build thread.

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I just did a hell of a lot of research before I went with the true trac.

Just so everyones clear, Eaton makes the Detroit Locker diff. and they also make the Detroit True Trac diff.

Both are nearly bullet proof and both will work.

It seems that the true trac is the better choice for a street car/ track car. Its quiter and more advanced as it works based off load so it can send 75% of the power to one wheel and 25% to the other or wherever its needed.

The locker seems like a great option for a drag car but I think the true trac is a way better everyday unit.

The locker is loud, clunky, basically like welding your rear up.

Edited by justinschmidt1
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Nice you will love it!

You wont even notice the true trac is there but will lay tire all the way down the road haha

Thanks man. I'm ready for it! Never owned a geared Mustang after all these years... crazy I know. Rear end tomorrow & drive train this weekend. Can't wait to see how horrible traction becomes.

It'll be better than driving my brothers '73 Mach 1 at least when it comes to turning. Spools are fun but not for turning haha.

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I just did a hell of a lot of research before I went with the true trac.

Just so everyones clear, Eaton makes the Detroit Locker diff. and they also make the Detroit True Trac diff.

Both are nearly bullet proof and both will work.

It seems that the true trac is the better choice for a street car/ track car. Its quiter and more advanced as it works based off load so it can send 75% of the power to one wheel and 25% to the other or wherever its needed.

The locker seems like a great option for a drag car but I think the true trac is a way better everyday unit.

The locker is loud, clunky, basically like welding your rear up.

almost right, but a spool is like welding your rear up. a locker will "lock" and "unlock" so when you go around a turn or you are not loading the rear it is unlocked and allows one wheel to spin faster going around turns. a spool permanently locks both wheels together. puts more stress on parts and the tires will chirp around turns sometimes. The thing to keep in mind with a locker is you have to be careful with them. you get on a wet road from rain or a sprinkler etc. and you are not paying attention, those bad boys like to lock up when you don't expect it to and can have you looking the wrong way in traffic in short order haha. you will love the True trac its a great unit. what other parts are you using for your build?

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Brian I just realized you were the OP I read the thread fast and thought Justin started it and had already ordered his parts. are you trying to do this cheep or are you trying to do it right haha? I strongly suggest doing it yourself, I know you were on the fence about it, but you will learn a lot and you can always call me for help if you get stuck.

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Spool is just like a lincoln locker tho.... LoL But lockers are far from clunky and loud. Atleast the detroit in my last car wasn't. And ill be putting a locker in the next rear I build!

Heads up and ass kickin!

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Doing a refresher on a rearend also depends on your budget do you just want to freshen or do you also want to strengthen?

A tru-trac will hold your mid level power 600 and above http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/AutomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221471

For axle manufacturers I;ve always been a fan of Moser due to their awesome customer service and support. At the time of a refresher do you want to do the C-clip eliminators? its a great time to do so to save you some heartache down the road that contains an additional cost of having the eliminators welded on and squared up but it is well worth it in the end.

For ease of purchasing reasons http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-4204SDK-C/94-98-Mustang-88-31-Spline-Severe-Duty-Rear-Axle-Kit-5-Lug-373-Gears a kit like this gives you everything you need with the proper gear fluid all in one kit. You have many different avenues to explore make sure your backlash is set correctly and to paint a pattern on your ring and pinion to assure proper gear pattern.

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I do a lot of 8.8 gear swaps and recently, guys been opting for the 4900-B carbon clutch kit with the F-150 S-spring. I feel like the F-150 spring is suited for a 31 spline carrier, but it seems to tight to me in a 28 spline unit, so I just install the carbon clutches and the stock s-spring.If guys bring me the stock-type 4700 clutch kit, I shim the packs to about .650" and install with the stock spring.Set up these used Ford Racing 4.10's for a buddy last week...

http://s575.photobucket.com/user/10851Man/media/Differential%20Technical/Ford%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%20Drive%20Side-2_zps2jnyjihd.jpeg.htmlFord%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%2

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I do a lot of 8.8 gear swaps and recently, guys been opting for the 4900-B carbon clutch kit with the F-150 S-spring. I feel like the F-150 spring is suited for a 31 spline carrier, but it seems to tight to me in a 28 spline unit, so I just install the carbon clutches and the stock s-spring.If guys bring me the stock-type 4700 clutch kit, I shim the packs to about .650" and install with the stock spring.Set up these used Ford Racing 4.10's for a buddy last week...

http://s575.photobucket.com/user/10851Man/media/Differential%20Technical/Ford%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%20Drive%20Side-2_zps2jnyjihd.jpeg.htmlFord%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%2

I'm not an expert on gears, nor will I claim to be, but don't you want the heavy wear in thr paint smack dab in thr middle?
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I'm not an expert on gears, nor will I claim to be, but don't you want the heavy wear in thr paint smack dab in thr middle?

its not terrible. but yea i would say its a little low. 

 

Although, what is a 4900-B clutch kit? I can't find any mention of it anywhere @Black & Red 

 

Also, an s spring is different between the 31 and 28 spline units.... they are NOT interchangeable. 

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I like to see the pattern run out evenly across the entire tooth, while favoring the toe. The pattern will change, to some degree, depending on how much braking force you can put against the pinion while turning the ring gear. This set was dead quiet, which isn't bad for a used gearset.

The Ford Racing M-4700-B clutch kit is the stock paper style frictions

The Ford Racing M-4900-B clutch has carbon discs and includes the 31 spline 'S' spring...

In this photo, of the same 4.10's pictured above, taken 180° away from the marked teeth, you can see a different view of the pattern...

http://s575.photobucket.com/user/10851Man/media/Differential%20Technical/Ford%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%20Alternate%20View_zpsfyqnskgz.jpeg.htmlFord%204-10%20%20Gears%208%20Point%208%2

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The spec on these gears is .008" to .012" backlash. I set these up at .009" and had only a .0015" variation checking for runout in (6) positions across the ring gear.

If you want to move the contact pattern farther across the tooth towards the heel, you would increase the backlash. I try to run them tight...

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