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Vacuum issues causing the car to not run

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Ok, so I've posted this in a few places on facebook, figured is post it here as well. I removed the intake from my 96 cobra engine to remove the IMRC's, as my stock GT computer is running the car, therefore the IMRC's aren't working anyways. Long story short, I have pulled the intake 4 soon to be 5 times, all new gaskets, IMRC's are epoxied, everything is torqued to spec in sequence and I'm only pulling 8-10psi and the car runs like shit. I can drive it but it sounds horrible and has no power. All vacuum is hooked up and I'm stuck. Idiot know what to do, where to look. I'm just done. I need help guys, please, share some wisdom or experiences before I just blow the car up!

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my only thought is that you have something fudged up on the vacuum line routing and your intake manifold for some reason is pulling air from the intake tube or something silly.  or a cracked EGR tube

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Ok, so I've posted this in a few places on facebook, figured is post it here as well. I removed the intake from my 96 cobra engine to remove the IMRC's, as my stock GT computer is running the car, therefore the IMRC's aren't working anyways. Long story short, I have pulled the intake 4 soon to be 5 times, all new gaskets, IMRC's are epoxied, everything is torqued to spec in sequence and I'm only pulling 8-10psi and the car runs like shit. I can drive it but it sounds horrible and has no power. All vacuum is hooked up and I'm stuck. Idiot know what to do, where to look. I'm just done. I need help guys, please, share some wisdom or experiences before I just blow the car up!

Can you hear it sucking air or or whistling arond the manifold?

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this last time, there absolutely is a sucking noise(so it seems) coming from the back side of the intake @ihaterice  i just don't know where it is coming from. new gaskets, all torqued, i'm lost. The only thing that isn't torqued is the upper lod, because i don't know what thats supposed to be torqued down to. but the lower intake to head says 18-22ft lbs, which is what i did.

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well that shot that idea in the foot lol. how about. do you have access to a smoke tester? smoke your intake and vac lines to see if you can see a leak. I know Vacuum is different that the "pressure" of the smoke test. however its worked a few times for me.

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well that shot that idea in the foot lol. how about. do you have access to a smoke tester? smoke your intake and vac lines to see if you can see a leak. I know Vacuum is different that the "pressure" of the smoke test. however its worked a few times for me.

I attempted a smoke test with a cigar, but don't think it produced enough smoke. I have access to a smoke machine as in smoke for effects, but I bet I could funnel the smoke into the intake that way. was going to get the smoke machine tonight and give it a whirl tomorrow...

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I attempted a smoke test with a cigar, but don't think it produced enough smoke. I have access to a smoke machine as in smoke for effects, but I bet I could funnel the smoke into the intake that way. was going to get the smoke machine tonight and give it a whirl tomorrow...

Check around the EGR valve where it is attached to the intake. It is back there, maybe something happened to it or the equipment like the DP transmitter that is with it.

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lol at trying a cigar. i guess its the right idea. not enough smoke though. a dedicated smoke machine will fill that engine from top to bottom in no time. This is probably your best bet for finding a vac leak at this point. or start the car and try the Brake clean/ carb cleaner method. spray the intake down and if the RPMS shoot up that is ABOUT... where the leak is. Not nearly as effective which is why i dont use or like this method.

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lol at trying a cigar. i guess its the right idea. not enough smoke though. a dedicated smoke machine will fill that engine from top to bottom in no time. This is probably your best bet for finding a vac leak at this point. or start the car and try the Brake clean/ carb cleaner method. spray the intake down and if the RPMS shoot up that is ABOUT... where the leak is. Not nearly as effective which is why i dont use or like this method.

I've gotten it to work with my buddy smoking a cigarette. He was basically a chimney though so it wasn't entirely surprising

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I've gotten it to work with my buddy smoking a cigarette. He was basically a chimney though so it wasn't entirely surprising

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im not saying i havent seen people try it. Im just not a big fan of cancer... personal decision lol. BTW i just got my "post quotes and mentions" email. you were all over me last night! wink wink ;)

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Did a compression check yesterday. the issue is far bigger than a vacuum leak. #4 cylinder has no compression. the other 7 have 195-200psi, #4 ha zero. gonna stick a boroscope in it this weekend, probably gonna pull it out and stick it on the stand and get her fixed.

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did you ever figure anything out this weekend?

I texted you last night, but for everyone else, turns out the Intake valve was hung open by a bolt I later discovered came from the IMRC control box bracket. how it came off, when it came off, or how it ended up in the runner, I have no clue. either way, somebody somewhere was looking out for me, or though it seems, as the rocker actually fell off and kept the valve from slamming into the bolt over and over and over again, and it was even tucked into the corner and didn't bounce around and kill the valvetrain. I will reinstall the rocker later this week when I get a spring compressor and roll it all over by hand and do a compression check, but visually everything looks to be in excellent shape. hope to button her back up and check it Tuesday or Wednesday.

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No need for a spring compressor. Use a vice to slowly bleed down the adjuster. Rotate the engine so that cam lobe is on the base. Then slide the rocker in and use a screw driver to pop it in the rest of the way. That's how I did mine. The spring compressor was a pain.

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Yes you can. But like I said, go slow. There's a check valve in there you'll be working against. You can pop the follower back in without bleeding down the adjuster, but it's easier this way.

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Yes you can. But like I said, go slow. There's a check valve in there you'll be working against. You can pop the follower back in without bleeding down the adjuster, but it's easier this way.

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great, thanks for the info! when I do reinstall it, do I need to do anything special, or just take into account when I start it, that it will need to fill with oil, so give it a few to pressure up before  do anything? @01yellercobra

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great, thanks for the info! when I do reinstall it, do I need to do anything special, or just take into account when I start it, that it will need to fill with oil, so give it a few to pressure up before do anything? @01yellercobra

I didn't do anything special when I did mine. But then I had dropped in a fresh motor and was letting it idle anyway. I didn't hear any bad noises when I did.

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need to get a new O ring for the crossover tube and my registration and inspection expired here in Va. so I got it in Texas, and i'm waiting on it to get here. i'll drive it around some when the weather gets better in the neighborhood, but won't drive, drive it till next week.

I'm glad you got it all worked out. Now go drive it.

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That sucks. Sorry man.

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yeah, it does, but at the same time, there's only one way to learn these modulars, and i'm about to do it. haha... thanks though for all the help so far. i'm going to try and get the head off by middle of next week and then see what's cheaper, machine work, or buying a used set of heads. already got the head gaskets and new head bolts on order, and formulated somewhat of a plan to get things rolling.

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You must. Even without the head studs I'd pull the motor.

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I only have to pull the passenger side, so there isn't anything in the way, i'm sure i'll be fine. if I had to pull the driver side, I would pull the engine. to much crap in the way over there to get the VC off and the head off as well.

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weeeeelllllllllll........ here we are a few weeks later and she's finally back on the road. ended up pulling the engine and pretty much disassembling everything. got the head off, found the valve was bent, removed bent valve, lapped the seat myself, installed the new valve, reassembled everything... while it was out though, I repainted the engine bay, cleaned up the wiring harness some, stripped the intake and valve covers and had my buddy powdercoat them for me. got it all back together Friday (march 11th) started it up about 8pm and it ran beautifully. took it around the block and noticed it wasn't charging. pulled it in, parked it for the night, went back out the next morning and checked all grounds and connections to the battery, slapped a charger on it and THOUGHT it was fixed. ran around the corner to wal mart to meet a guy buying some parts I had, car died, luckily the guy jumped me off and noticed the fusible link was broken, so we rigged it up, got it home and then swung by autozone today and got a new one, hooked it up and all seems to be good to go. she sounds good, looks good with the new hood and just makes me feel good. haha... all the pics are on my phone (and facebook) so ill have to get in here on my phone and load them up.

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Here are some pics of the rebuild...

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rymuteha.jpgmy youngest helping daddy... He carried those 2 hammers around all day.

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y7uby8an.jpgif you look close enough here, just slightly above the dirt spot, you'll see where the valve stem was bent just enough to warrant the tear down.

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Before

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After

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