OLD H2S Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 THE GOOD NEWS,BAD NEWS POST.... Compression test is done: FRONT 5-228 1-227 6-225 2-228 7-223 3-240 8-226 4-239 I do not know what is up with number 3,4 where ever I put those pistons the cylinder comes up high? I had them in position 1 and 2 before and the same thing. But over all you can see things are very even and do not get too hung up about the welding fill in, you can be off on each chamber and the results come out very even in pressure. I only cc'ed one chamber to see how much to fill in to get down to a 30 cc total which gives me 12:1 CR, so all the math works. I have had NO detonation- pre ignition even at full timing, the tuners were surprised and did 12 pulls adding 2 degrees each pull till the power stopped rising and nada, zip, zero none. I told them I cut .070 off the head to get the piston closer to the quench pad so there is no room for a secondary detonation to even start and it works! The bad news, I have an intermittent knock, and this is on new bearings with 30 miles on them. I tried the pull the plug wire trick and could not find it so it could be valve train or clutch so more digging today and the 3rd. tear down to see what is going on...OR swap in the original '96 NPI motor, swap the heads and still come out with 12:1 CR on a stock piston & rod set up. I kept the original together for backup, I have been down this road before with aluminum block Cobra motors and it is the same headache, the iron blocks are better to beat on. So another exciting weekend here at casa Fart, stay tuned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 AND THE WINNER IS....... MILKSHAKE Well this changes everything, and opens a new can of worms. It never ends. See and you thought all this post was boring bla-bla and it doesn't apply to me, I'm not building an engine, this guy is an idiot, what dumb things to do to a motor etc. I'm charged up now, I thought I was back searching for the missed oil passage clog and now... head gasket? cracked head? damaged the block? did I miss something somewhere? More digging to come.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted July 20, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted July 20, 2017 Man, you can't win for anything with this thing. Did you use head studs or new head bolts? I know you surfaced the head and they are straight so that shouldn't be an issue. And I don't see why your block would have a problem. Hmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 Took me 6 hours from start to dropping off the heads at the machine shop to pull the engine and do the tear down. Looks like the heads are warped from all the welding, that amount of metal added make for a lot of shrinkage to one side of the head so time to add some more compression. I will enjoy the rest of the weekend cleaning out the milkshake from the oil galleries. Good thing I used ARP studs because they are getting a workout and are starting to show some wear from all the rebuilding. I hate paying their prices for nuts and bolts but not much choice out there. I hope I can keep the motor clamped tight enough together at 240 PSI chamber pressure.and no overlap on the cam. I talked with Bullet Cams yesterday about putting 3V heads on a 2v engine set up and they said the custom cams would be 10 weeks delivery time and 2000 bucks which when you look at the all in price of doing the 3V swap is not bad. The cost of the Ford 3V intake manifold is 600 alone, then the PCM, wiring harness, fly by wire BS. White95 would say it is cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted July 21, 2017 Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 everyone hates paying for ARP performance but not as much as they hate to get out the broken bolt extractor kit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2017 I've seen their set up in magazines and they sweat the details and not much in the way of competition. I do buy fasteners from McMaster Carr and every year they expand the selection. I have been buying 3 foot long threaded rod of the right type and making up studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 I did the same myself since they do not make a stud kit for the 94/95 upper/lower intake with any kind of spacer and was happy with how it came out but otherwise I have already spent too much time on broken bolts and do not mind paying for arp when its available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted July 24, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 You had to mill the heads after you did the welding, right? You said you sent them off, I thought you did all that yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 I do not have a big enough bed on my mill to hold the heads and swing a big fly cutter at the same time so I take them to the local engine machinist to cut for me. I took another .020 off the head and now I am at 13.2:1 on my smallest chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted July 24, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 10 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said: Another reason I'm happy being a pushrod guy. Y'all don't have the assortment of parts we do to choose from to help with stuff like this. Dint get me wrong, I'm all about the genius behind what your doing and the effort and I don't have half the knowledge you do. Please carry on tho, I like seeing stuff like this done, even if your car does have to many thump sticks!!! ;-) But with our available parts, we can run 13:1 compression (or more) on 93 octane gas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 I would love to do a push rod motor then I could get some real CID. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 56 minutes ago, Evilcw311 said: What is the absolute biggest cid you can do on a mod motor?? we all know 351w blocks can go 410+ and other blocks far beyond but I've never heard anyone talk about big cube mods. Not sure of their longevity, but Kasse and a couple others have punched them out to 409cid. Though I imagine that would be on the max edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Well the motors out for the 4th time in 4 weeks. I am getting some vibration from the pilot bearing so I will change that and some noise from 2 rods that are a little too big on the pin ends so I will rebuild all 8 rod bushings. I have never done that but I have an induction heater and a 22mm pin gauge I bought so I will share that job with you. I did not get the call for the job in Florida so I might have to sell this motor for tax money so I am making it run right. I might just use my old '96 NPI motor in the the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 1, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Holy crap. That really really sucks. Im sorry to hear about all the bad luck with this thing! I will say though, Im excited to see how you do the wrist pin bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 This is nothing but constant refinement from someone with OCD, it is how to keep tweaking stuff then back off 10% that keeps them running smooth and last. You all should have seen my Marauder build...4 motors, 3 transmissions, 3 rear ends, but it was voted the best driving one in the USA at Marauderville 6. It wasn't the quickest, but it was fast and would peg the speedo at 155 effortlessly, it was also a pain in the ass because much of the work had never been done before by anyone and we learned together. Those Cobra motors went in and out 17 TIMES!! But I NEVER cut the frame so that was a first, and a lot of fiddling. So this is cheaper, more fun, easier, with many more parts available, and it might have to come out again for something I don't like so who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Looking at my dyno sheet the peak torque is 290 at 4200, right where Ford wants it with the PI manifold. I ordered an Edelbrock 4.6 to try out to get some more air into the pretty heads I made, they are a waste right now. What color should I coat the manifold? I can powder coat Ford light blue or black or shoot some clear or DTM dark epoxy. The valve covers and timing cover are blue but I might change the timing cover because I have to weld up a crack from trying to cram a 2000 timing wheel behind a '96 cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 2, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 I really like the aluminum look of the eddy intake. If you wire wheel it to clean it up a little bit and then shot it with some clear, I think that would work nicely. I think if it was blue it would be just a little too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 I agree, I think I'll do the valley in black and the manifold in clear, now to find some trick bolts for it. Check out this little piece of cotton rag stuck on one of the exhaust valves, been there for 50 miles, I thought it would burn up? Here is a shot of this mornings head porting increase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 More Bigger.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 2, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Whoa! That's a lot more port! Now I'm curious what the power difference is going to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 I got the rod bushings today from Manley. I have a dead rod to play with and the bushing is in tight! I had to use the hydraulic press to get it out even after heating it up. I made up a driver on the lathe and had to drill a 1" hole in one of the press plates. The measurements are simple and a 1" round bar stock is all you need so Manley was thinking when they made up the design and the bushings are meant to be changed when the pins get wobbly, probably more frequently than we do. I will post pictures of the set up when I start changing them out. I talked with Manley and any rod under 200.00 each is made in China, even theirs. They use " firsts" and the rest get picked up everyone else, Their patent is over so anyone can sell them and there are a lot of H beam rods out there and for most of us they are good enough. Manley said the difference is in the machining tolerances and you get what you pay for. Machine time in China is just as long as the USA so it comes down to can you use them out of the box or do they need more time with your local rod master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2017 Here you go... 1" round stock with 2 steps in in it. !" hole bored in the press plate. Chill the bushing inserts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 I put the heads back together and measured one of the intake port runners, 180 cc's, so let me know if that is good or do I go bigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 4, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Trick flow has an option for 185cc's right? That makes me think the 180's should work out very nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I put the Edelbrock manifold on. It just clears the hood when closed and I will look harder for rubbing. Got the motor running today and so far the biggest leak I can find is the "H" pipe. I used the stock fuel rails by cutting down the rail mounts 1/4" and welding some aluminum angle bracket tabs to the mounts and adding some 1/4x20 rivet nuts for permanent attachment points. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 14, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Everything looks great, as usual. Now lets see if the combo is going to work out this time! Also, have you thought about taking that a/c idler off and bypassing it completely? You can get a ribbed idler pulley and put it in place of your smooth one then just go on top of the pulley instead of below. Itll make the belt a lot shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I have a new AC compressor ready, left over from one of my Cobra builds, I just need a drier and I am good with a new system. I found a water leak, I think from the intake manifold gasket and my AF ratio is running 15:1 so I will know more tomorrow. I pulled the plugs and the bottom of the oil pan and no water so I might get off easy, more later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptoppony Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Have to change the name to the bad luck build. Stuff breaks and we upgrade, one of the things I like best about the hobby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Well the water leak was a big one, new intake gasket fail. I cut so much off the heads and block- .100" that the tall gasket falls over at some points and leaks. Ford really wants the 1/2 wide flanges everywhere for them to work and some of my contact areas are down to 1/4 so I skipped the gasket and used "Right Stuff" only and no leaks now and my AF is richer so there was an air leak too. Runs better now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 The new headache. I have 40 miles on the engine now and it is running smooth, then in the middle of town it starts to hesitate and will not generate enough torque to move but it will idle nice, I check the fuel pressure and it is down to 15 PSI. Did I fry a new BBK 255 liter pump in such a short time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 25, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 If you need a new one, give this one a try! They are cheap and work out great. I have one in my car and a buddy has one in his car. You can get it with a discount if you use CORRAL340 as the discount code. http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-20760718-quantum-340lph-intank-fuel-pump-ford-mustang-1994-1997.html?ref=category:1097310 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Do you think that is too big for 300 HP ? That would heat up the fuel from the over kill in flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 25, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 9 minutes ago, OLD H2S said: Do you think that is too big for 300 HP ? That would heat up the fuel from the over kill in flow? Youre running return style right? I havent had any issues out of mine and have about 3000 miles on it with all sorts of different driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 OK, My setup is stock lines and rail with an adjustable regulator running 50 PSI to 19 pound injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 25, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 7 minutes ago, OLD H2S said: OK, My setup is stock lines and rail with an adjustable regulator running 50 PSI to 19 pound injectors. stock setup was return style so the way I understand that is the fuel thats not needed is returned to the tank. I dont think heat would be much of an issue at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 OK, I ordered it and a check valve. Nice website, thanks for the hit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted August 25, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Just now, OLD H2S said: OK, I ordered it and a check valve. Nice website, thanks for the hit. Awesome. Did you use that discount code, is it still good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted August 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 The discount code still works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted September 11, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Whats going on in here? Is this thing still alive this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLD H2S Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 I am at Cape Hatteras, getting ready for Jose. The car runs strong, the fuel pump was failing slowly, I think it was a counterfeit Walbro from AM. Got your Quantum pump and all is good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
