D3vst8r96gt Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 I bought a motor. With that I have been searching and figured we should have a consolidated thread for SN95 swaps. Consideration when discussing 94-95 cars are gonna need more stuff. 96-97 (maybe 98) will be the same and of course New edges. Should we have a thread for each? Coyotify has a lot of new edge content, I plan to use info from over there to help. Lets keep it tech related and issues you ran into and how you over came them (like the BBK headers into the t45 cross members). If you want to post a link to your build thread and a short story on what was all involved in your swap, timeline, etc., I will add it to my original post to make something similar to the r3dn3ck's 5.4 swap thread. If you have a cost break down that might help. Reading Material: F150 engine swap http://forums.corral.net/forums/member-build-up-projects/1835625-coyote-swap-f150-motor.html (images are broken) F150 engine swap https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/american-iron-coyote-cobra-swap.1012783/ BBK Header issue w/ T45 (sn95 non cobra) https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/coyote-in-94-98-mustang-w-t45-or-3650-exhaust-clearance-problem.1040518/ UPR K issue with stock oil pan http://www.modularfords.com/threads/208674-Coyote-swap-UPR-kmember-will-not-clear-stock-oil-pan BBK and Canton oil pan issue https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/problems-with-bbk-coyote-swap-headers-and-canton-road-race-oil-pan.1021714/ Alternator Pulley Manual vs Auto coyotes https://pbhperformance.com/shop/alt-pulley-2011-up/ http://forums.corral.net/forums/s-197-mustang-gt-2011-2014/1322380-who-else-has-done-coyote-swap-how-engine-controls-pack-working-out.html Stalling issue with control pack? Try his tune (not sponsored just relaying success from others) http://www.jmschip.com/jms-custom-email-coyote-swap-tune/ http://forums.corral.net/forums/gt-sohc/2229898-whos-swapped-coyote-motor-99-04-have-some-questions.html http://forums.corral.net/forums/electrical-wiring/1423159-coyote-engine-swap-how-do-i-get-c-functional.html http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/2140706-coyote-swap-wiring-question.html https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-coyote-engine-control-install.html http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-tech/174721-help-wiring-coyote-5-0-swap.html http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23174-2015-f150-coyote-engine-harness http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1528098 https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/coyote-swap.889815/ https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-a-coyote-in-a-fox-body-with-working-air-conditioning.1025115/ http://coyotify.com/wp/ http://forums.corral.net/forums/member-build-up-projects/2030553-coyote-swap-moroso-oil-pan.html (PLEASE DO NOT QUOTE ORIGINAL POST) Alternator issues - "For Coyote swap customers utilizing the PBH Coyote Swap accessory bracket kit with 11-up GT/Boss alternator you must run a clutchless pulley. All manual transmission cars and FRPP Boss alternator kits come with a clutch style pulley. Trying to use this setup with PBH brackets will result in an alternator that spins but does not charge. These pulleys are machined out of aluminum and also are much lighter than stock. All pulleys are anodized black." Engine harness differences - The 11/12 use the DU5Z-12A581-ZA, 13/14 use M-12508-M50. The difference between two engine harness is the plug on the VCT solenoid. F150 vs mustang belts some are not 6 ribs no windage tray on some F150s timing cover is different on atleast the early F150 (mustang BR3Z-6019-A) oil pump is different! (F150 BL3Z-6600-A, Mustang BR3Z-6600-A) Which means oil pump gears don't fit. intake cam (Mustang intake cam part number BR3Z-6250F and BR3Z-6250E for the LH and RH respectively) - If you want to switch to you will need the following fastners N806183-S437 (cam cap bolts 10 per cam) ARP 156-1004 (is the12pt head) or 156-1005 (is the 6pt head). BR3Z-6279-A (cam bolt to phaser, 3 per cam). ARP phaser bolts 256-1003, you will need new balancer bolt too so you might as well get the ARP one. Headers are different but no one uses the stock headers in these swaps. D3V: 1996 GT - started Jul 2016 2014 f150 5.0 with 33k - 2300 shipped Engine harness - $187 (ebay new from ford dealer) *may not be needed if motor comes with it, required for crate motor* M-12508-M50 PBH Brackets - $696 (discount on LMR) MMR Head cooling mod - 200 *optional* Alternator for M/T car ($107 used) *optional unless your motor doesn't come with the right one* Coil Cover $20 (optional) Billet OPG 200 Billet Crank gear 200 ARP balancer bolt Engine mount spacers scram speed 60 Scram speed pedal mount 90 ARP cam tower bolts 92 ARP Phaser bolts 56 Oil pump 99 Header bolts 54 Stock TB (with bolts) 40 Timing Cover (100 on ebay, 120 on LMRS) Gasket Kit from ford watch out there is a difference between 11-14 and +15 (M-6600-A50PKIT) 70 at AM Used mustang balancer 20 bucks (plan on going ATI eventually) Boss Timing chain tensioners are on my maybe list AM has the best price at 105 (p/n M-6266-M50B) Header gaskets 40 lots left to buy. Headers 560 fuel system 800 (want to go e85 anyways but you can save by making the stock fuel rails work) control pack 1500 LM intake cam 850 scram speed valve cover breathers 60 mustang oil pan (maybe but appears to be the same) 100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 @Neverenuff1 has a wealth of information on the other forum and could provide a lot of great insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 @Det_Riot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 shit. following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Updated original post with some reading material. My motor has shipped. Ordering the head cooling mod and PBH bracket kit friday. Need to have the motor to know what else I need to order (engine harness, timing cover, oil pan, accessories). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Got the motor and need to order the engine harness. Engine harness - $250 (may not be needed if motor comes with it, required for crate motor) PBH Brackets - $696 (discount on LMR) MMR Head cooling mod - 200 (optional) Need to get an alternator and stock throttle body and fuel lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverenuff1 Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Hello, I still need to do an introduction thread.. I will shortly. Anyhow, the BBK headers+x-pipe are a great and fit as well as a set of longtubes and 3" x-pipe can fit in a sn95 chassis. They (x-pipe) do hit the t45 cross-member and a hammer to the pipe cures most of the fitment issues(currently run a Stifflers but I want to make my own out of angle iron and the factory member). Also needed are spacers between the motor mounts and the K member, which enables the use of the factory oil pan. Moroso pans do not fit according to threads/reviews without notching, They say Canton's fit with minimal clearance between oil pan and header. -The "stall" issue that started many forums bashing the swap is....scary as hell! Not to deter you in any way but hammering on the throttle and come to find out your vehicle shuts off in the process is not for the faint of heart. There are a few remedies however, the FRPP speed cal is a great option and I currently run the controller, also a few knowledgeable tuners out there can fix the situation as well. The computers on these engines are self-learning and have to have a signal saying the vehicle is in motion. -PBTH accessory bracket kit and the Boss 302 alternator kit + the clutch-less pulley are the best route for the swap IMO. The factory 4.6 alternator just doesn't like pulls past 7k - Starter, the 4.6 starter is smaller in diameter than the 2011 and up coyote starter. it gets sandwiched between the passenger side header and the block -FR Control Pack breeze to wire, I believe its 4 wires that are needed for the ignition, you will need a location for the power distribution box(glove box works well) and enlarge a hole through the firewall into the cabin as the connector is 3-4" rectangle -Clutch- Again, these engines like to spin, my current headache is my clutch. Started with a RAM, then Exedy and now moving to a Spec stage 2 as it's my daily. Never spent over $200 on a clutch but now it looks like cheap insurance(Mantic kits for 2011 and up coyotes are $1500!) Look forward to following your build! Good luck and let me know if I can help in any way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverenuff1 Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 (edited) Quote Edited August 8, 2017 by Neverenuff1 not my build thread, sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverenuff1 Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 (edited) not my build thread, sorry Edited August 8, 2017 by Neverenuff1 not my build thread, sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Updated the thread a little ..... discovered some issues with the F150 motor specifically regarding the oil pump being different. I Got a lot of the small parts. Hurricane Irma took a nice chunk of my budget for the rest of the year. Need headers and wiring harness still. Going to start pulling the 2v this month. I have to install the lights in my garage first. I will take a video and post them on my youtube channel as progress but plan to keep this thread going .... Kinda set up my goals for the car. Eventually I want a VMP TVS and lots of torque, I don't plan on spinning to 8k or anything like that. Right now I just plan on getting it running, tuning leaning towards HP tuners. Pretty much tired of having all these SCT handhelds become bricks randomly when SCT decides to stop supporting them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted October 17, 2017 Report Share Posted October 17, 2017 Without a doubt go HP Tuners. Their support and tuning capabilities are far beyond what SCT is doing and has done. While SCT sits on the handheld market they have currently, HP Tuners is continuing to explore new markets and are constantly developing and refining their software. 10/10 would recommend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 I wish I could make more progress on this but I have a serious gun problem lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3vst8r96gt Posted November 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 Spent some more money and added more information to original post. Got the lights installed in the garage (20000 Lumens hahaha). Waiting on the timing cover and cam selection (stock or LM), oil pump need to be ordered too I have it in my ebay cart but keep forgetting. Headers will come next then engine harness. Pretty sure the trans will blow during tuning so trying to plan for that hahaha. I just want it running at this point .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
