How to shave your 94-98 trunk!

[330CubeGt]

Also did this write-up when i had the 98Gt so its a little old but still useful if your wanting to be different

Went wingless and had to fill the holes.Along with filling the holes i also filled in the holes for the factory ford emblem.After thinking about it i said ah what the heck ill fill in the seam around the Tag to.Short and Sweet but if you have basic hands on skills this can be done in an afternoon

Items Used: The Body Filler that was used is Bondo Glass.Also pick up a few Spreader Pads.(2) Cans Primer and (2) Cans Paint.

Bondo-Glass is a unique reinforced filler containing short, interlocking fiberglass strands and fibers that make it twice as strong as regular body filler. Repairs small (dime size or smaller) rusted-out metal holes and shattered fiberglass body parts. PERFECT FOR MARINE USE! Eliminates the need for backing strips, fiberglass resin or cloth on small holes and rusted out areas. Sandable in only 20 minutes and compatible with all paint systems. Waterproof. Includes Red Cream Hardener.

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I Removed the Third Brake light (2) 10mm Nuts and got to work.Using 300 Grit sand paper and my Porter Cable E-Sander.

300 Grit is pretty tough so don't stay in one place for to long.Keep in mind if you do not have a Sander this job can be done by hand if all your doing is filling the wing holes.

I Removed the Ford Emblem with a small flat head Screw Driver.Then Hit that area with the sander this is what it should look like.

After thats done Move on to the Seam around the tag along with the wing holes.

Once this is done you need to put somthing behind the wing holes along with the emblem, in my case i used a small amount of epoxy on a square piece of aluminum and stuck it behind each hole.If you try to do this next step with out putting something behind the holes the Bondo Glass will sag through the holes and end up every where but where you want it.

Now your Ready to mix.I advise you to read the instrutions for mixing in the hardener.In my case what ever the amount of bondo glass i just make a X over the bondo glass and get to mixing.After mixed you only have a limited time to work with the bondo glass before it gets hard.If your not scared of sanding you can apply it think or if you want to save yourself some work apply it a bit lighter.

Then this is how it should look once applyed.

Same goes to the Wing Holes. After it hardened i used a fresh piece of 300 Grit once again to knock it down quickly you might want to use a little less abraisive Grit but thats all i had.Then it should look somthing like this.

Once you get it to being smooth to the touch.with no ripples/air pocket, and your happy with it.your ready to tape off around the trunk use some blue painters tape and some old newspaper and get ready for primer.After you tape it off wipe down the surface area your ready to hit it with some primer,Don't forget to shake it good before you spray.In my case i used Grey Sandable/Filler Primer to help fill in any small imperfections.This is what it should look like after laying on the first coat.

After about 1.5-2 Cans of Primer it should look like this.

After you have it completly covered in primer your Ready to sand it smooth.In my case only having 300 Grit i used an old piece that was kinda wore out.If you can use something a little less harsh maby 800 Grit would be better.Once you have it smooth and even you can get ready for paint.I then again Taped off the Trunk and applyed one coat of Rustoleum Gloss Black paint.

After the first coat drys i hit it with some wet sand paper 1000 Grit and 1500 Grit to get it as smooth as can be.Then i applied 3 more coats of gloss back paint. About $25-30 in supplies and an afternoon of work.

I am by no means good at body work but i try.Someone with more know how on body work im sure can do a much better job.

This is the End Result.

[Tony]

Only thing needs mentioning is if you have a black car that's outside a lot and sees high temperatures do not use body filler. Order a tube of Seam sealer like used to adhere metal and plastic panels together in the factory. Body filler expands and contracts in heat and black cars are more prone due to higher surface temps outside. It is not flexible and will eventually crack. Seam sealer is a flexible agent that doesn't expand or contract but can shift between the 2 surfaces without cracking. Plus it works best when bonding different materials such as metal and plastic like our trunks are made of.

but can you sand and shape seem sealer? and does it contain any silicone? just wondering cause i hate bondo for that reason. looks great until a month goes by and you see the seems and body work cause of shrinking. i plan to do what the op posted over the winter and woul'd like to know more about this seam sealer

[ttocs]

more then likely it would still need a thin layer of filler to get it smooth enough for body work but generally the less you use = less shrinkage.

[Drake]

so if you dnt have a black car bondo is fine?

[330CubeGt]

Just a heads up, I used bondo glass that has fiberglass already in it so its not typical bondo that cracks/pops off. Decklid sat in the sun for months and month in the FL heat and never showed any signs of cracking. I have used it for metal/fiberglass on other projects as well and never had any issues. Maybe im just lucky? Who knows...

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[ttocs]

bondo with the glass in it will be just fine in this application.

[Tony]

Just sayin. Some do get lucky but I'd rather not be the unlucky one. Most high end shops won't warrantee things like that. It's worst for black but possible on anything. Just keep in mind the darker the color the hotter it gets and more it shows.

330 I'm not tryn to jack your thread. I just wanted to throw this info in. It's a great write up honestly!!!!!!

i've shaved door handles , tailgate handles, tail lights...etc and the bondo shrinks almost always....really wanna do what frank posted but want it to be seamless and no shrinking down the road..

cool thread btw!

[Drake]

well then what do you use for body filler

[Musturd]

I never seen the seam around the tag done before. This is awesome I want to do this now to as I've already shaved my trunk emblem tail light and spoiler this would make it just to clean.

[Tony]

i can still see your seem........jsut sayin.....

lol, i didnt wanna say anything but yea, seem is def there, lol! so i'm gonna give that seam seeler a try and hopefully the seem wont show up down the road....

[330CubeGt]

You can still see it because i never finished it, i had the crap laying around to do it and i did it in prob and hours time. I was wanting to mess with the other 10 projects i had going on so i never came back to it

Here is a Hood that i did using fiberglass, Top piece Is a cowl piece from a fox body (Cervini) hood that was wrecked and the bottom was a stock SN95 hood.

Later pic of the same hood with the hole i had to cut out for the Lighting Blower.

I understand what you guys are saying, Just showing you that i can do nice work when i put the time into a project

Listed below is another half decent pic of the hood aswell...

Edited August 25, 2012 by 330CubeGt

[Tony]

dam frank that hood with the fox cervini's hood must have been a bitch to mold, no? came out like it was always that way.

[DOHC GT]

Frank I don't want you to think I was slamming your work or knowledge. I was just simply putting intel in for those who might try this in the future. You have a great start on the trunk and the hood is awesome!!!

Again, none of my statements were ill intent. Just a little help for others.

his work is actually nicer in person, frank gets it done......

[D3vst8r96gt]

[ATTACH]679[/ATTACH]

Just sprayed the car down (wasn't gonna wash it) and I just blew all that paint off!!!!

I almost passed out

The D3V

Edited August 26, 2012 by D3vst8r96gt

[ttocs]

holy chit mang must have been dirtier then ya thought...

[Forcefedhatch]

I just welded my stuff up on the trunk.. But the b-glass works ok too FO sho!

Of course I kept the L-plate box too though lol..

Sent from my iPhone

[Yeahloh95]

very cool info i have had mine shaved for about 8 years or so i can put up some pics of it if you guys want

[330CubeGt]

Frank I don't want you to think I was slamming your work or knowledge. I was just simply putting intel in for those who might try this in the future. You have a great start on the trunk and the hood is awesome!!!

Again, none of my statements were ill intent. Just a little help for others.

Oh and did you modify the pic of the back?!? It looks photo shopped now??? Lmao

Nah I understand what your saying, I didn't take anything you said the wrong way. I know what your posting it to help others and to be honest If I were to do the tag area again with metal/fiberglass/plastic or to different materials I might give the seam sealer a try. None of the pics I posted were chopped, I can hardly use micro paint to make pictures smaller lol.. Just wanted to post one of my bigger projects (the hood) to show you Im not all that bad at body work.. Im self tought so there is always room to learn more so im open to any useful info about body work...

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[330CubeGt]

his work is actually nicer in person, frank gets it done......

Hell your bumper ain't even 100% done but its alot nicer then it was... And I know you guys are not here bashing my work. I just wanted to post another example pic to show I can do half decent body work so you don't think im a complete dum dum.

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